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Ask the community...

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Raj Gupta

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Quick tip for the OP: If you use tax software like TurboTax or H&R Block throughout the year (not just at tax time), they have estimated tax calculators built in that can help you figure out your payments. You can enter your stock sale info and they'll tell you how much to pay each quarter. Also, don't forget state estimated taxes if your state has income tax! Those are often due on the same dates as federal but not always.

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Dmitri Volkov

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Thanks for the tip! I do use H&R Block usually, but I never thought about using it mid-year. Do I need to buy the current tax year version now or can I use last year's until the new version comes out?

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Raj Gupta

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You'll need the current year version, but you don't have to pay for it yet. H&R Block and most other tax software companies let you create an account and start entering information for free. You only pay when you actually file. So you can use their calculators and worksheets now to estimate your quarterly payments without paying for the full software. Just make sure you're using the 2025 version (for taxes you'll file in 2026), not the 2024 version that was for filing this past April.

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Does anybody know if there's like a minimum amount you need to make before you have to do these quarterly payments? I sold some crypto and made like $2,200 profit but not sure if I need to worry about this quarterly stuff.

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Yes, there is a threshold. Generally, you need to make quarterly estimated tax payments if you expect to owe at least $1,000 in tax for the year after subtracting withholdings and credits, AND your withholding and credits will cover less than 90% of your current year tax or 100% of your prior year tax. For $2,200 in crypto gains, it depends on your overall tax situation. If you have a regular job with withholding that covers most of your tax liability, you might not need to make estimated payments for this relatively small amount.

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Naila Gordon

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I'm a bit confused by your situation. Are you itemizing deductions? If you're taking the standard deduction (which most people do after the tax law changes a few years ago), then the charitable donation won't actually impact your taxes anyway. For 2023 the standard deduction is $13,850 for single filers and $27,700 for married filing jointly. Unless your total itemized deductions (mortgage interest, state/local taxes up to $10k, charitable donations, etc.) exceed those amounts, you won't get any tax benefit from the car donation regardless of the value.

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That's a really good point I hadn't considered. I've been so focused on figuring out the right donation value that I didn't step back to look at the bigger picture. I'm single and definitely won't have anywhere near $13,850 in itemized deductions. So you're saying this whole thing is basically moot for me since I'll be taking the standard deduction anyway? Ugh, I've spent hours researching this for nothing!

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Naila Gordon

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Yes, that's exactly right. Many people get caught up in the details of specific deductions without considering whether they'll actually itemize at all. The 2017 tax law changes nearly doubled the standard deduction while eliminating or limiting many itemized deductions, so now only about 11% of taxpayers itemize. However, your research wasn't entirely wasted! This knowledge will be helpful for future tax planning. If you know you'll be close to the itemization threshold in a particular year, you might strategically bunch charitable donations into that year to exceed the standard deduction amount and get tax benefit from them.

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Cynthia Love

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Quick tip since nobody mentioned it - check if your state tax return allows charitable deductions even if you take the standard deduction on your federal return! Some states have different rules and you might still get some benefit on your state taxes.

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Darren Brooks

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This is really good advice! I live in Colorado and was able to claim charitable donations on my state return even though I took the standard deduction federally. Saved me about $75 on my state taxes.

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Lena Kowalski

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Hey, payroll specialist here. Your withholding issue might be simpler than you think. Check your pay stubs to see if they show "Exempt" anywhere on the tax withholding section. Sometimes when people say they've set withholdings to "zero," they've actually checked the exempt box on their W-4, which means NO federal taxes are withheld at all. Also, the W-4 changed in 2020 like someone mentioned above. So "claiming zero" isn't really a thing anymore. You need to make sure you're using the new form which has completely different fields. One other thing to check - some smaller companies' payroll systems calculate withholding on a per-paycheck basis rather than annualizing your income. This can lead to underwithholding if your pay fluctuates at all during the year (bonuses, overtime, etc).

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Daryl Bright

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Just double checked my pay stub and it definitely doesn't say "Exempt" anywhere. It shows they're withholding about $360 per paycheck for federal taxes. Our payroll is handled through ADP, so I assume they're using updated withholding tables? But maybe not. Would it be weird to directly ask my HR person if they're annualizing my income for withholding purposes?

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Lena Kowalski

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Not weird at all to ask HR about the withholding calculation method. That's a perfectly reasonable question. Just frame it as "I'm trying to understand why I keep owing at tax time despite having taxes withheld." ADP should be using current tables, but the issue might be how your specific company has configured their ADP settings. Some companies, especially smaller ones, don't always update their payroll configurations when tax laws change. Ideally, they should be using the aggregate method of withholding which considers your annual income rather than just calculating each paycheck in isolation.

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Has anyone tried just increasing their withholding by a set amount instead of trying to get the W-4 perfect? I got tired of owing every year so I just put an extra $100 per paycheck on line 4(c). Now I get a small refund each year and don't have to stress about it.

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Mei-Ling Chen

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This is honestly the easiest solution. The withholding system is never going to be 100% accurate for everyone. I'd rather get a small refund than owe money. I do $75 extra per paycheck and it works perfectly for me.

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Daryl Bright

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That's probably what I'll end up doing. I'd rather get a small refund than deal with this stress every year. Based on what others have said, sounds like I need about $130 extra per paycheck. I'll just round up to $150 to be safe. Thanks everyone for all the advice! Going to fill out a new W-4 tomorrow and talk to HR about making sure they're using updated withholding calculations.

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KaiEsmeralda

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Just to address your question about being "doomed" - I was in a similar situation (7 years unfiled, owed about $180k). I finally got everything filed and worked with the IRS on a settlement. Ended up with an Offer in Compromise where I paid about 30% of what I owed. The key is to file EVERYTHING, be completely honest, and work with them on a solution. They have more flexibility than most people realize if you're genuinely trying to resolve the situation.

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That's really encouraging to hear. How long did the whole process take for you from filing the back returns to getting the Offer in Compromise accepted?

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KaiEsmeralda

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The entire process took about 14 months from start to finish. The first part - gathering all my documentation and filing the back returns - took about 2 months. Then I submitted the Offer in Compromise application, which took another 2 months to prepare properly with all the required financial information. After submission, the IRS review process took about 10 months, including some back-and-forth with the assigned officer who was evaluating my case. There were a couple of requests for additional documentation during that time. It wasn't quick, but considering how much I saved in the end, it was absolutely worth the wait and effort. Just be prepared for a marathon, not a sprint.

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Debra Bai

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One thing I haven't seen mentioned - if you do file all your back taxes at once, make sure you're sending them to the right IRS address. Different tax years might need to go to different places. I screwed this up and it caused months of delay in my case being processed.

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This is good advice. Also, send everything via certified mail so you have proof of when you submitted each return. Helps a ton if there are ever questions about timing.

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Left 0 in stock tax form boxes (TY21 Sch D AMT ln 7) - what happens if I owe the IRS money?

I've been doing taxes through TurboTax by myself for like 5 years now without any issues. But this year, right as I was about to finish up, I got asked to review something from my income that I apparently missed. It was related to my Vanguard account (I'm super casual with stocks, just do a little here and there) and for some reason this info wasn't imported automatically like everything else was. So there I am, ready to be DONE with my taxes, and suddenly TurboTax is like "Hey we need this super specific info from your 2023 taxes and how it compares to your 2024 taxes on this obscure stock form, but we're not telling you how to find it lol good luck!" I spent like 2 hours searching for answers, checked old tax forms, even tried calling Vanguard, and finally just gave up and put 0 in the box. It was for TY21 Sch D AMT ln 7. Then it asked for another similar box value and I put 0 there too. Since I barely do anything with stocks (maybe like $500-600 worth of trades a year), I don't think these values were significant. My refund of around $4k didn't change much after I entered the zeros. I've already filed, but now I'm worried. Can the IRS fix small errors like this without me needing to amend? I REALLY don't want to amend for this stupid thing. If the IRS looks at it, will they notice the random zeros and just fix it themselves? So my questions: If you put 0 on TY21 Sch D AMT ln 7 and another box because you don't know the answer, will it be: a) no big deal, b) something requiring an amended return, or c) something that makes me owe the IRS money? And if I do end up owing, do they just email or mail you a notice with payment instructions? Can I just pay online? I've never owed before but I'd be fine paying a bit as long as I don't have to deal with physical mail (the worst).

Yara Abboud

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I'm a bit late to this discussion but felt like I should share my experience. I've been dealing with stock investments for years and those AMT adjustments are confusing even for people who do understand stocks! The TY21 Sch D AMT ln 7 is referring to the Alternative Minimum Tax adjustment for capital gains/losses from a previous tax year that carries over. For most small investors, this is legitimately zero, so you might have accidentally put in the correct number anyway. The key thing to understand is that the IRS computer systems automatically match the 1099-B forms from your brokerage with what you report. If there's a significant discrepancy, you'll get a letter. But they're looking primarily at the current year transactions, not these carryover adjustments from previous years. In my experience, unless you're dealing with tens of thousands in stock transactions annually, these AMT adjustments rarely make a meaningful difference in your tax liability. The IRS focuses their enforcement resources on larger discrepancies.

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PixelPioneer

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So does this apply to crypto transactions too? I have a similar situation where I couldn't figure out some carryover basis amounts from previous years.

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Yara Abboud

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Crypto is actually handled differently in some ways. The IRS treats cryptocurrency as property rather than securities, so while you still report gains and losses, the AMT adjustments work differently. For crypto, accurate basis reporting is even more important because the IRS has been focusing enforcement in this area. If you can't determine your exact basis from previous years, you should try to make a good faith estimate based on transaction records. The Schedule D AMT carryovers would only apply if you had specific AMT adjustments in previous years related to your crypto trades.

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Has anyone else noticed that tax software keeps getting more expensive but somehow WORSE at handling common situations? I paid TurboTax $120 this year (up from $89 last year) and they still couldn't properly import my stock information from the same broker I've used for 5 years!

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Paolo Rizzo

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Try FreeTaxUSA next year. I switched from TurboTax two years ago and never looked back. Only $15 for state filing and federal is completely free. They handled all my stock transactions perfectly, including those weird AMT adjustments.

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