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One additional consideration that hasn't been mentioned yet - if either of you has any employee stock purchase plans (ESPPs) or restricted stock units (RSUs) mixed in with your regular holdings, make sure to check with your employer's plan administrator before transferring those shares. Some employer-sponsored equity plans have specific rules about transfers between spouses that could affect vesting schedules or tax treatment. Also, since you're planning to hold for 5-7 years, this might be a good time to review your asset allocation across both accounts before consolidating. Sometimes when couples merge accounts, they discover they've been inadvertently overweight in certain sectors or asset classes without realizing it. A quick portfolio analysis before the transfer could help you identify any rebalancing opportunities while you're already making changes. The tax implications are definitely straightforward as others have confirmed, but getting the strategic aspects right can really pay off in the long run!
This is excellent advice about checking employer stock plans! I learned this the hard way when I tried to transfer some RSUs from my spouse's account - turns out there were specific restrictions on spousal transfers until full vesting occurred. Your point about reviewing asset allocation is spot on too. When we finally consolidated our accounts last year, we discovered we had way too much exposure to tech stocks across both portfolios without realizing it. We were essentially doubling down on the same risk without knowing it. Taking the time to do a full analysis before the transfer helped us rebalance into a much more diversified portfolio. One thing I'd add - if you have any international holdings or ADRs, double-check that both brokerages can handle those securities. Some firms have limitations on certain foreign stocks or charge different fees for international trades.
This is such a common situation for married couples trying to streamline their finances! You've gotten excellent advice here about the tax-free nature of spousal transfers under the unlimited marital deduction. I'd like to add one practical tip that saved me a lot of hassle when my wife and I did something similar last year: before initiating the transfer, call both brokerages to confirm their specific requirements and timelines. Even though the tax treatment is straightforward, each firm has different paperwork and processing procedures. Vanguard typically requires a medallion signature guarantee for large transfers (which you can get at most banks), while Schwab sometimes accepts their own transfer forms without the medallion depending on the amount. Getting this sorted out upfront prevented delays in our case. Also, consider doing a partial test transfer first with a smaller holding to make sure everything goes smoothly before moving the full $675k. This gives you a chance to verify that cost basis information transfers correctly and that you're comfortable with the process before committing to the larger amount. The consolidation will definitely make portfolio management much easier once it's complete!
This is really practical advice about testing with a smaller transfer first! I hadn't thought about that approach, but it makes total sense given the amount involved. Quick question about the medallion signature guarantee - is this something most banks provide for free to their customers, or is there typically a fee? And do both spouses need to be present, or can one person handle it if they have proper documentation? Also, when you did your test transfer, how long did it take to complete? I'm trying to plan the timing around some upcoming dividend payments and want to make sure we don't miss anything during the transfer process.
I was in the exact same boat last year - ended up owing $2,800 because my withholding was way off! Here's what I learned after going through this painful process: Step 4c is definitely the way to go for extra withholding, and yes, whatever amount you put there gets taken out of EVERY paycheck. Don't leave it blank if you're already underwithholding. My approach was to be a bit conservative and overestimate rather than underestimate. I took what I owed last year, divided by my number of paychecks, then added an extra $20-30 per paycheck as a buffer. Better to get a refund than owe again! One thing to keep in mind - if you get any raises or bonuses during the year, or if your situation changes (marriage, kids, etc.), you might need to adjust your W-4 again. I actually updated mine twice last year as my income changed. The peace of mind is totally worth it. Getting that first paycheck with the higher withholding was such a relief knowing I wouldn't get hit with another surprise tax bill.
Thanks for sharing your experience! That $2,800 surprise sounds awful. I'm definitely leaning toward being conservative like you did - I'd rather get a small refund than owe money again. Quick question: when you say you added an extra $20-30 buffer per paycheck, did you find that was enough to cover any income changes during the year? I'm expecting a possible promotion mid-year and want to make sure I don't end up short again even with the raise.
The $20-30 buffer helped but honestly wasn't quite enough when I got promoted halfway through the year. My raise bumped me into a higher tax bracket and increased my overall liability more than I expected. I ended up owing about $400 at tax time instead of getting a refund, but that was SO much better than the $2,800 surprise the year before! If you're expecting a promotion, I'd suggest either adding a bigger buffer upfront (maybe $40-50 per paycheck) OR plan to update your W-4 again once the promotion goes through. Most people don't realize that when you get a raise, especially a significant one, your tax situation can change pretty dramatically. The IRS withholding estimator can help you recalculate once your new salary kicks in.
Great question! I went through this same frustrating situation a couple years ago. Step 4c is indeed for additional withholding per paycheck - whatever dollar amount you put there gets deducted from every single paycheck on top of your regular withholding. Since you're already underwithholding, definitely don't leave it blank. Here's a practical approach that worked for me: 1. Take the amount you owed this year and divide by your number of annual paychecks (that's your baseline) 2. Add a small buffer of $15-25 per paycheck to account for any income changes during the year 3. Consider any major life changes coming up (raise, bonus, marriage, etc.) that might affect your tax situation For example, if you owed $1,500 and get paid bi-weekly (26 paychecks), that's about $58 per paycheck. I'd probably put $75-80 in Step 4c to have some cushion. Remember, you can always adjust your W-4 again later if your situation changes. It's much better to slightly over-withhold and get a small refund than to get hit with another tax bill next April!
This is really helpful advice! I like the idea of adding that buffer - better safe than sorry. One thing I'm wondering about though: if I end up over-withholding and get a refund, is there any downside to that? I know some people say you're basically giving the government a free loan, but honestly after getting burned this year I think I'd prefer that over owing money again. How much of a buffer do you think is too much?
You're absolutely right about the "free loan" thing - yes, technically you're letting the government hold your money interest-free. But honestly, after dealing with a big tax bill myself, I think the peace of mind is worth way more than the small amount of interest you'd earn on that money. As for how much buffer is too much, I'd say if you're getting a refund over $1,500-2,000, you're probably over-withholding by quite a bit. At that point you might want to dial back your Step 4c amount slightly. But a buffer of $20-50 per paycheck? That's totally reasonable and shouldn't create a huge refund. The way I think about it: would I rather have an extra $20-40 per paycheck to spend, or avoid the stress and potential penalties of owing taxes again? For me, the stress-free sleep at night is definitely worth it!
Has anyone else noticed that their tax refund changes dramatically when entering the 1098-T information? When I first entered mine (also with $0 in box 1), my refund went DOWN by $2800! Then when I added my actual payment date and amount for spring semester, it went back UP by $3000. This is confusing as hell.
That's because of how education credits work. When you enter scholarship money (box 5) without any qualified expenses (box 1), the scholarship becomes taxable income, which LOWERS your refund. But when you add in your qualified expenses, it both makes the scholarship non-taxable AND potentially gives you education credits like the American Opportunity Credit which can be worth up to $2,500. Double win!
This entire thread has been incredibly helpful! I'm dealing with almost the exact same situation - Box 1 showing $0 but I definitely paid tuition in early 2023 for spring semester that was billed in December 2022. What's really frustrating is that my university's financial aid office gave me the runaround for weeks, telling me the form was "correct" because of their billing system. It's reassuring to see from @Noland Curtis that this is a known issue and that universities are supposed to be using the payment method, not the billing method. I'm going to follow the advice here and enter my actual January 2023 payment amount when FreeTaxUSA asks about expenses paid in 2023 but billed in another year. Like @Diez Ellis mentioned, my refund dropped significantly when I first entered the 1098-T, but I'm hoping it will bounce back once I add the correct payment information. Thanks everyone for sharing your experiences - it's made me feel much more confident about handling this correctly!
I'm so glad this thread helped you too! I was in the same boat feeling totally confused and worried I was going to mess up my taxes. The university financial offices really should be more helpful with explaining this - it seems like such a common issue. One thing that gave me extra peace of mind was keeping screenshots of my student account showing the payment dates, in addition to the bank statements. That way I have multiple sources showing when I actually made the payments in January 2023. Good luck with your filing!
This thread has been incredibly helpful! My spouse and I are in the exact same boat - both over 55 with a family HDHP through my work. I was getting so frustrated with the conflicting advice from different sources. From reading everyone's experiences here, it sounds like the consensus is clear: we can indeed contribute the full $10,300 ($8,300 family limit + $1,000 catch-up for each spouse), but we absolutely need separate HSA accounts to do this correctly. I'm planning to keep things simple like several of you suggested - continue having the full family contribution come through my employer's payroll deduction, and then have my spouse open her own HSA account just for her $1,000 catch-up contribution. One follow-up question for the group: for those who went the route of opening that second HSA account primarily for the catch-up contribution, did you find any particular providers that were better for smaller account balances? I'm wondering if there are minimum balance requirements or fees that might make it less worthwhile for an account that might only see $1,000 per year initially. Thanks again everyone - this community is so much more helpful than my company's benefits hotline!
Great question about HSA providers for smaller balances! I actually researched this exact issue when setting up my spouse's account. Fidelity has been excellent for us - no minimum balance requirements and no monthly maintenance fees. They also have a good selection of investment options once you build up a larger balance. Another option to consider is Lively, which specifically caters to HSAs and has very low fees. Some of the traditional bank HSAs (like at local credit unions) can have monthly fees that would eat into a $1,000 annual contribution pretty quickly. One thing I learned: even if you're only putting in $1,000 the first year, if you plan to let that money grow for future healthcare expenses, you want to pick a provider with good investment options. That $1,000 catch-up contribution each year can really add up over time, especially if you're not using it for current medical expenses. Also, some providers offer family account linking features that make it easier to manage multiple HSAs from the same household - definitely worth asking about when you're shopping around!
I just went through this exact situation and wanted to share what I learned from my tax preparer. You're absolutely right that you can contribute the full $10,300 total for 2025! Here's the breakdown that finally made it click for me: - The $8,300 family limit is like a "pool" that you can divide between your two HSA accounts however you want - Each $1,000 catch-up contribution must go into the specific person's HSA account (so yours goes to your account, your wife's goes to her account) - Total potential: $8,300 + $1,000 + $1,000 = $10,300 The key thing that confused me initially was thinking that having a "family" plan somehow limited us to one catch-up contribution. But the IRS is clear that catch-up contributions are tied to the individual person being 55+, not the type of health plan you have. Since you mentioned your wife already opened her own HSA account, you're all set! We decided to keep our setup simple: I get the full $8,300 family contribution through payroll deduction into my HSA, and my wife contributes her $1,000 catch-up directly to her account. Works perfectly and keeps the record-keeping straightforward. Your HR person probably wasn't sure because this is one of those HSA rules that even benefits professionals sometimes get wrong. But you're definitely entitled to both catch-up contributions!
This is such a helpful breakdown, thank you! I'm a newcomer to HSA planning and this whole thread has been a goldmine of information. The "pool" analogy for the family contribution limit really clarifies things for me. I'm in a similar situation - just turned 55 and my spouse will be 55 next year. We currently just have one HSA through my employer, but it sounds like we'll definitely want to set up a second account when my spouse becomes eligible for the catch-up contribution. One question: when you say your wife "contributes her $1,000 catch-up directly to her account," do you mean she writes a check or does online transfers? I'm wondering about the logistics of making contributions to an HSA that isn't connected to an employer's payroll system. Are there any timing considerations or deadlines I should be aware of for these manual contributions? Thanks again - this community has been way more informative than any official resource I've found!
Giovanni Colombo
Has anyone successfully negotiated down the penalties with the IRS? I'm in a similar situation with RSUs but for 2023, and I'm worried about the penalties more than the actual tax owed.
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Yuki Kobayashi
ā¢Yes, you can absolutely request penalty abatement, especially if this is your first time making this type of error. The IRS has a "First Time Abatement" policy that often waives penalties for taxpayers with clean compliance history. When responding to the notice, include a formal request for penalty abatement explaining that you made an honest mistake and didn't understand the reporting requirements for RSUs. Focus on how you've always filed and paid on time previously.
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KingKongZilla
I'm dealing with a very similar situation right now! Got acquired in early 2023 and had RSUs vesting quarterly through the end of that year. Like you, I saw the RSU income on my W-2 and assumed everything was handled automatically. Just got my CP2000 notice last week claiming I owe $22k. After reading through this thread and doing some research, I realized I completely missed reporting the "sell to cover" transactions on Schedule D. The frustrating part is that I actually overpaid taxes because I didn't claim the correct cost basis for the shares that were sold! The IRS is treating the sales as if I had zero basis, but since the RSU value was already taxed as income, my basis should equal the fair market value at vesting. Going to gather all my documents from Schwab (my company's plan administrator) and prepare a response showing the correct calculation. Thanks everyone for the helpful advice - makes me feel less panicked knowing this is a common mistake!
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Taylor To
ā¢You're absolutely right about the cost basis issue! That's actually a huge part of why these CP2000 notices can be so inflated. The IRS computer systems just see stock sales reported on 1099-B forms but don't automatically know what your basis was, so they assume it's zero and tax the entire proceeds as capital gains. Since your RSUs were already taxed as ordinary income when they vested (which is why they show up on your W-2), your cost basis for the shares sold should indeed be the fair market value on the vesting date. This means you likely have little to no actual capital gain, and might even have a small loss if the stock price dropped between vesting and the automatic sale. Make sure when you respond to include a clear calculation showing: 1) Sale proceeds from 1099-B, 2) Cost basis (FMV at vesting), and 3) The actual gain/loss. Also include copies of your vesting confirmations from Schwab showing the FMV on each vesting date. This documentation makes it much easier for the IRS to understand and accept your position. Good luck with your response - sounds like you have a solid understanding of the situation now!
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