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Has anyone had success with just omitting the account number entirely? I'm using FreeTaxUSA and it seems to let me leave that field blank without generating any errors.
I had this exact same issue with my Fidelity 1099-R last year! The 20-digit account number drove me crazy until I figured out what was happening. What worked for me was using only the last 17 digits when entering it into my tax software (I use H&R Block online). The way I think about it is that Fidelity includes their internal routing/classification codes at the beginning of the account number, but for tax purposes you only need the actual account identifier portion. I called Fidelity's tax line to confirm this approach and they said it was correct. One thing I'd suggest - if you're really worried about it, you can always attach a statement to your return explaining that you truncated the account number due to system limitations. But honestly, I don't think it's necessary. The IRS is used to dealing with this kind of formatting issue between different financial institutions. Good luck with your filing, and congrats on the new home!
This is really helpful! I'm dealing with the exact same situation right now with my Fidelity 1099-R. Quick question - when you called Fidelity's tax line, did you have to wait long to get through? I've been trying to reach them but keep getting stuck in their phone system. Also, did they give you any specific guidance on which digits to use, or just confirm that using the last 17 was okay?
For anyone doing short-term trading on apps like CashApp - what tax software are y'all using? I tried TurboTax last year but it was a nightmare trying to enter all my trades manually.
I use FreeTaxUSA and just import the summary info from my 1099-B instead of entering each trade. As long as you attach your complete 1099-B to your return (which you should), you don't need to enter every single transaction line by line. Just the totals for short-term and long-term transactions.
I've been wondering about this too! Reading the comments here, I think I'm going to check out that taxr.ai thing someone mentioned above since I have trades across multiple platforms. Entering everything manually sounds like a nightmare.
Just wanted to add something important that I learned after my first year of active trading - make sure you understand the difference between "trader" and "investor" status with the IRS. Most people doing casual day trading like you described are considered investors, which means your trading losses are capital losses (limited to $3,000 deduction per year against ordinary income). However, if you were doing this as a business (trading frequently, substantial time commitment, seeking short-term profits), you might qualify for trader status, which has different tax implications. With your $46k in trades on a $52k salary, it's probably worth understanding this distinction. Also, since you mentioned some same-day flips - just be aware that day trading can sometimes trigger pattern day trader rules with brokers (though that's more about account requirements than taxes). The tax treatment is the same whether you hold for minutes or weeks, as long as it's under a year it's all short-term capital gains/losses. Your $790 loss will definitely help reduce your tax bill, not increase it!
Another money-saving option for your state taxes: check if your state has a free filing option directly through their tax department website. Many states offer free filing portals that aren't advertised as much as the paid services. For example, I live in California and was able to file for free using CalFile directly through the state franchise tax board. I had a similar situation where FreeTaxUSA wanted to charge for state filing after I did federal for free.
Do you know if there are any income limits for using these state filing portals? I make around $58k annually and some "free" services end up not being free for me because of income thresholds.
The income limits vary by state. In California, their CalFile system allows free filing for incomes up to $73,000, which covers most students and many working adults. Other states have different thresholds. Your best bet is to go directly to your state's department of revenue or taxation website and look for their free filing options. They usually list any income restrictions right on their information page. Even if you're above the threshold for some free services, state direct filing is often still cheaper than what the commercial tax prep services charge.
Pro tip: If you're filing back taxes just for FAFSA purposes, you can also request your tax transcript directly from the IRS after filing your federal return. This is free and often processes faster than waiting for your full return to be processed. The FAFSA verification process will accept tax transcripts if they need to verify your information.
How do you request a tax transcript? Is that something you can do online?
Yes, you can request tax transcripts online through the IRS website at irs.gov. Go to "Get Your Tax Record" and then "Get Transcript Online." You'll need to verify your identity with personal information and either a credit card, mortgage, or student loan account number. You can also request them by mail using Form 4506-T, but that takes 5-10 business days to receive. The online option is instant once you're verified. Tax transcripts show most of the key information from your tax return that FAFSA needs, and they're often available sooner than when your return shows up in the IRS Data Retrieval Tool.
Does anyone know what software is best for tracking inventory this way? We've been using QuickBooks but it seems designed for the traditional COGS method. Now I'm wondering if we need something different if we switch to expensing inventory at purchase.
You can still use QuickBooks! Just set up your inventory items as non-inventory items when purchased. That way they'll expense immediately. We switched to this method last year and our accountant showed us how to modify QuickBooks to handle it correctly.
This is such helpful information! I've been struggling with the same decision for my small electronics repair shop. We stock replacement parts and I've always done the traditional COGS method, but it's been a real headache tracking everything. One thing I'm curious about - if we make this election to expense inventory when purchased, does it affect our ability to use Section 199A (the 20% small business deduction)? I know that deduction is based on qualified business income, and I'm wondering if changing how we account for inventory impacts that calculation at all. Also, has anyone dealt with sales tax implications? In my state, we pay sales tax on inventory purchases, and I want to make sure switching to this method doesn't create any issues with how we handle sales tax reporting or credits.
Olivia Clark
Has anyone tried e-filing an amendment from 1040 to 1040NR? I'm in the same situation and wondering if there's any way to avoid the paper filing nightmare.
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Javier Morales
ā¢You can't e-file an amendment that changes from Form 1040 to 1040NR. This specific type of amendment must be filed on paper. The IRS e-file system doesn't support changing return types like this, unfortunately.
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Olivia Clark
ā¢Thanks for clarifying. That's disappointing but good to know before I waste time trying to figure it out. Guess I'll be heading to the post office soon.
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Victoria Scott
I went through this exact situation two years ago and want to emphasize a few critical points that might save you some headaches: First, when you mail your amendment package, use certified mail with return receipt. The IRS processing centers can be overwhelmed, and having proof of delivery is crucial if your package gets lost. Second, regarding the refund repayment calculation - make sure you're accounting for any interest you might owe. If it's been more than a few months since you received the original refund, the IRS may assess interest on the amount you need to pay back. Include this in your payment to avoid additional notices. Third, prepare for a long wait. My 1040 to 1040NR amendment took about 6 months to process, which is typical for paper amendments. Don't panic if you don't hear back for several months - that's normal. Finally, keep detailed records of everything. I created a folder with copies of all forms, supporting documents, the certified mail receipt, and notes from any phone calls with the IRS. This documentation proved invaluable when I had questions about my case later. The good news is that once it's processed correctly, you'll have peace of mind knowing your tax situation is properly resolved.
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Miguel Castro
ā¢This is incredibly helpful advice, especially about the certified mail and interest calculation! I'm just starting this process and hadn't considered the interest aspect. Quick question - when you calculated the interest owed, did you use the IRS underpayment interest rate or was there a specific rate for refund repayments? Also, did you include the interest calculation in your explanatory statement or just add it to your payment amount?
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