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Ask the community...

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Has anyone had the IRS apply their overpayment to a state tax debt? I heard they can do that but not sure if its automatic or if you have to request it?

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Zara Khan

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The IRS doesn't automatically apply federal tax overpayments to state tax debts. Federal and state tax systems are separate. However, if you owe other federal debts (including federal student loans), the Treasury Offset Program might intercept your federal refund to pay those debts.

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I went through something very similar last year with back taxes from 2021. The IRS will definitely refund any overpayment automatically - no special forms needed. What helped me was creating an online account at irs.gov so I could track the status of my payment and see exactly how they calculated the penalties and interest. One thing to keep in mind: if you made the payment recently, it can take up to 6-8 weeks for them to fully process everything and issue the refund. They have to apply your payment, calculate the exact amount owed as of the payment date, and then process the overpayment. You should receive a notice explaining their calculations before the refund arrives. Also, double-check that you don't have any other outstanding federal debts (like student loans) because they might offset your refund against those before sending you the money. Good luck!

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Thanks for sharing your experience! That's really helpful to know about the 6-8 week timeframe. I'm definitely going to set up that online account - I didn't realize you could track payment status that way. Quick question: when you say they calculate penalties and interest "as of the payment date," does that mean if I paid a bit early compared to when they actually process it, I might get even more back since the interest would be less?

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Is there a cutoff on how much profit is tax free? Im in a similar situation but made about $175k on my house that I lived in for 3 years. Will all of that be exempt?

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Aria Khan

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The exemption is $250,000 if you're single and $500,000 if you're married filing jointly. So if you made $175k and lived there for 3 years, you should be able to exclude the entire gain from your income (assuming you meet the other requirements like it being your primary residence).

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Great question about the primary residence exemption! You're absolutely right that there's a 2-out-of-5-years rule, and you definitely qualify. Since you lived in the house as your primary residence for nearly 5 years (2019-2023), you've more than met the residency requirement. The fact that you're renting instead of buying another home immediately doesn't matter at all for the exemption - there's no requirement to reinvest the proceeds. However, since you made $320k in profit, you'll want to consider the exemption limits: $250k if you're single, or $500k if you're married filing jointly. If you're single, you'd owe capital gains tax on $70k of your profit ($320k - $250k exemption). Don't forget to add any qualifying home improvements you made during ownership to your cost basis, as this could reduce your taxable gain. Things like major renovations, new HVAC systems, or structural improvements can be added to what you originally paid for the house. Also remember that since you owned the home for more than a year, any taxable portion will be subject to long-term capital gains rates (typically 0%, 15%, or 20% depending on your income level), which are generally more favorable than ordinary income tax rates.

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Andre Moreau

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This is really helpful! I'm in a similar boat but wondering about timing - if I'm planning to sell in early 2025, should I wait until I file my 2025 taxes (due in 2026) to deal with this, or do I need to make estimated payments during 2025? Also, does the state where the property is located matter for the exemption, or is this purely federal?

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Laura Lopez

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Community wisdom on avoiding SBTPG: • Most tax prep companies use either SBTPG or Republic • H&R Block uses Axos Bank (mixed reviews) • TurboTax uses SBTPG exclusively • Jackson Hewitt uses both SBTPG and Republic • Direct deposit to your own account is always fastest • Paying prep fees upfront avoids these banks entirely I've been filing for 15+ years and learned this the hard way. These refund transfer services only exist to take fees from people who can't pay upfront.

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Just went through this nightmare with SBTPG myself this year! My refund was delayed 18 days and their customer service was absolutely terrible. Here's what I'm doing differently next year: I'm switching to FreeTaxUSA and paying the small fee upfront ($14.99 for state filing) to get direct deposit straight to my bank account. No third-party banks, no transfer fees, no delays. Another option if you want to stick with Jackson Hewitt - ask them specifically about their "no bank product" option where you pay fees upfront. Some locations don't advertise this but they all offer it. You just have to be very clear that you want direct deposit to YOUR account, not through any refund transfer service. The key is being prepared to pay those prep fees out of pocket instead of having them deducted from your refund. It's worth it to avoid the SBTPG headache!

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I'd strongly recommend going the personal donation route rather than trying to transfer it to your business first. As others have mentioned, the IRS takes a dim view of last-minute asset transfers just to claim business deductions. For your $4,000-5,000 boat, you'll need Form 8283 and a qualified appraisal since it's close to the $5,000 threshold. Don't try to lowball the value to avoid the appraisal requirement - that's a red flag for audits. Get a marine surveyor to give you a proper fair market value assessment. Also, keep detailed records of the boat's condition with photos and any maintenance records you have. The IRS will want to see that your valuation is reasonable given the actual state of the vessel. Since you mentioned it's "falling apart," make sure your appraisal reflects that reality. One last tip - if the charity ends up selling the boat for significantly less than your claimed value (which often happens with boats in poor condition), your deduction will be limited to the actual sale price, not your appraised value.

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Great advice about the appraisal! I'm curious though - if the boat is right at that $4,000-5,000 range, is it worth getting the appraisal even if it might come back lower than $5,000? I mean, if the appraiser says it's only worth $4,500, then I wouldn't have needed the appraisal in the first place, right? But then I'd be out the appraisal fee for nothing. How do people usually handle this situation?

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Gianna Scott

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You raise a good point about the appraisal dilemma. Here's what I'd suggest - get a rough estimate from a marine surveyor first (many will give you a ballpark figure over the phone or with photos for a small fee). If they think it's likely under $5,000, you can proceed without the formal appraisal. But if there's any chance it could be valued at $5,000 or more, get the formal appraisal. The cost of the appraisal (usually $200-400) is worth it to avoid potential IRS issues later. Plus, having professional documentation of the boat's poor condition will support your deduction amount even if it comes in under $5,000. Better to be over-prepared than face questions during an audit.

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Aisha Rahman

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Just wanted to add something that might help with the documentation side of things - make sure you get a receipt from the charity that includes specific language about the donation. The IRS requires the receipt to state whether you received any goods or services in return for your donation (which should be "no" for a straight boat donation). Also, since you mentioned the boat is in poor condition, document everything thoroughly with dated photos showing the specific issues - hull damage, engine problems, interior wear, etc. This will be crucial if the IRS ever questions your valuation. I learned this the hard way when I donated an old RV and didn't have enough documentation of its condition. One more thing - if you do go the personal donation route and itemize, remember that charitable deductions are subject to AGI limitations. Non-cash donations to public charities are generally limited to 50% of your adjusted gross income, with any excess carrying forward for up to 5 years. Given your boat's value, this probably won't be an issue, but it's worth keeping in mind.

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This is really helpful documentation advice! I'm actually dealing with a similar situation with an old motorcycle I want to donate. Quick question - when you say "dated photos," do these need to be timestamped by the camera, or is it enough to just take them close to the donation date? Also, did you end up having any issues with the RV donation despite the documentation problems, or did it just make you nervous about potential audits?

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For dated photos, you don't need fancy camera timestamps - just taking them close to the donation date is fine. Most phones automatically embed date metadata anyway, which the IRS can access if needed. The key is being able to prove the photos represent the item's condition at the time of donation. Regarding my RV situation - I didn't get audited, but when I realized how little documentation I had, I got pretty anxious about it for the next couple years. The charity sold it for much less than I claimed, which limited my deduction anyway, but I learned my lesson about proper documentation. Now I treat any non-cash donation like I'm going to be audited, because the penalties and interest aren't worth the risk of being sloppy with paperwork. For your motorcycle donation, I'd suggest taking photos of the odometer, any mechanical issues, scratches, rust, worn tires, etc. Also keep any maintenance records you have - they help establish the vehicle's history and condition.

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One thing I haven't seen mentioned yet is the timing consideration for your coaching business. Since you're relocating in a few months, you might want to factor in when you'll actually need the tax deduction. If you're having a particularly high-income year, the charitable deduction might be more valuable this tax year. But if you're expecting lower income due to the relocation disruption, you might benefit more from the immediate cash from selling. Also, don't forget about the moving expense implications. If you're moving for business reasons, some of your relocation costs might be deductible, which could affect your overall tax strategy. Given that you fully expensed everything under Section 179 in 2022 (making any sale proceeds ordinary income), I'd lean toward donation unless you desperately need the cash flow right now. The tax benefit will likely be better than paying taxes on whatever you'd get from selling 3-year-old furniture.

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Carmen Diaz

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That's a really good point about timing the deduction based on income fluctuations! I hadn't thought about how relocating might affect my coaching business income this year. Since I'm moving mid-year and will probably have some client disruption, my income might actually be lower in 2025 than usual. Would it make sense to delay the donation until next year when I might be back to full capacity and in a higher tax bracket again? Or does the fact that I'm disposing of the assets this year mean I have to handle the tax implications in 2025 regardless of when I actually make the donation?

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Emma Taylor

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Great question about timing! You have some flexibility here. The tax treatment depends on when you actually dispose of the assets, not when you decide to dispose of them. If you sell or donate in 2025, that's when the tax consequences occur. However, if you donate in early 2026, you'd claim the charitable deduction on your 2026 return. But there's a catch with business assets - if you're no longer using the furniture for business purposes after your move, you might need to consider that a "conversion to personal use" which could trigger some tax implications even if you haven't sold or donated yet. This gets into some complex territory that might warrant a conversation with a tax professional. One strategy could be to keep the furniture "in service" for your business (even if stored) until you determine your 2025 income level, then make the donation decision early in 2026 based on your projected 2026 income. Just make sure you're not letting the furniture sit unused for too long, as the IRS could question the business purpose.

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This is a great question that many home-based business owners face! Based on the discussion here, it sounds like your Section 179 expensing in 2022 is the key factor that changes everything. Since you fully expensed the furniture already, selling would mean reporting the entire sale amount as ordinary income, which at your 24% tax bracket could eat up a significant portion of what you'd receive. For donation valuation, I'd suggest taking detailed photos of each piece and researching comparable used items on Facebook Marketplace, OfferUp, and similar platforms to establish fair market value. Document everything thoroughly - the IRS likes to see that you made a good faith effort to determine reasonable values. One practical tip: consider a hybrid approach. If any pieces are in particularly good condition and likely to sell quickly for a decent price, maybe sell those. For the items that would be harder to sell or wouldn't fetch much, donation might be the better route. The small conference table and chairs, for example, can be tricky to sell but might have good donation value. Also remember that donation gives you more predictable timing - you know exactly when it happens and can plan the tax benefit accordingly, whereas selling might drag on for months with no guarantee of success.

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This hybrid approach makes a lot of sense! I'm thinking the desk and ergonomic chair might actually sell well since those are items people really care about quality for, while the bookshelves and conference table set would probably be much easier to just donate. One question though - if I do a mix of selling some items and donating others, do I need to be careful about how I document which items I'm treating which way for tax purposes? Like, should I take photos and document the condition of everything before I decide, or can I just handle each piece separately as I go? Also, has anyone dealt with the logistics of getting donation receipts when you're dropping off multiple furniture pieces? Do places like Goodwill actually itemize everything or do they just give you a generic receipt?

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