Thanks for all the helpful advice everyone! I'm realizing I need to figure out the GVWR of my truck first since that seems to be a key factor. If it's over 6,000 lbs, it sounds like I might have better options than the 200DB method. @Romeo Quest and @Eve Freeman - those AI tax tools sound interesting, especially for someone like me who's still learning all these rules. I might give that a try since I'm clearly in over my head with all these depreciation methods and limits. One question though - if I do qualify for Section 179, can I still choose to do regular depreciation instead if I want to spread the deduction over multiple years? Sometimes it might make sense to not take such a huge deduction all at once depending on my income situation.

Just wanted to add another important consideration - make sure you're keeping detailed records of your business use percentage if it's truly 100%. The IRS is very strict about vehicle deductions and will want to see a contemporaneous mileage log showing business vs personal use. Even if you think you use it 100% for business, document every trip with dates, destinations, business purposes, and mileage. I learned this the hard way during an audit - they disallowed a big chunk of my vehicle expenses because I couldn't prove the business use percentage with proper documentation. Also, don't forget that if you're taking depreciation, you can't also take the standard mileage deduction - it's one or the other. Since you bought the truck specifically for business and it was expensive, the actual expense method with depreciation is probably better for you, but just wanted to mention it in case you weren't aware of that rule.

This conversation has been incredibly educational! I'm dealing with a similar situation but with vintage vinyl records from the 70s and 80s. One thing I wanted to add based on my research is the importance of distinguishing between different condition grades when establishing cost basis. Most collectibles (toys, cards, records, etc.) were purchased in "mint" or "near mint" condition originally, but after decades of storage, many items have degraded. When researching historical prices for cost basis, make sure you're comparing apples to apples - a mint condition Star Wars figure from 1980 vs. one that's been played with will have very different original values to research. Also, I found that local libraries sometimes have archived toy catalogs and price guides in their reference sections that aren't available online. The librarians at my local branch were actually super helpful in finding old Sears Christmas catalogs from the 80s that I used to establish reasonable cost estimates. One last tip: if you're selling on multiple platforms (eBay, Facebook Marketplace, etc.), make sure to track ALL selling expenses across platforms. Each one has different fee structures that should be deducted from your gains.

This has been such an incredibly helpful discussion! As someone who's been sitting on a pile of vintage video games and consoles from the 80s and 90s, I've been putting off dealing with the tax implications of selling them. Reading through everyone's experiences has given me the confidence to finally move forward. A few additional considerations I wanted to share based on my own research: 1. **Documentation timing**: Start documenting your research BEFORE you sell items, not after. I made the mistake of selling a few games first and then scrambling to justify the cost basis later. Much easier to do the research upfront. 2. **Bundled items**: For those dealing with items that were originally sold as sets (like board games with multiple pieces, or toy lines), try to research the original set price rather than piecing together individual component values. 3. **Regional price variations**: Toy and game prices varied significantly by region back in the day. If you can find regional advertisements or catalogs from your specific area, that might be more accurate than national averages. I'm planning to use a combination of the archived catalog approach mentioned here and possibly one of the tax services people have recommended for the more valuable items in my collection. The peace of mind seems worth it for items that might generate significant gains. Thanks to everyone who shared their experiences - this thread should be bookmarked by anyone dealing with collectible sales!

This is such a frustrating situation, and I feel for you! I went through something similar two years ago. A few additional tips that helped me: 1. Keep detailed records of EVERYTHING - dates, times, confirmation numbers, who you spoke with. This becomes crucial if there are any delays or complications. 2. Consider requesting a tax transcript once your case is resolved to see exactly what the fraudulent return looked like. It might give you clues about where your info was compromised. 3. Don't forget to check if the fraudster also filed a state return - many people focus only on federal but miss that their state refund might also be tied up. 4. If you have direct deposit set up, make sure those bank account details are still secure. Sometimes fraudsters will try to change banking info for future refunds. The silver lining is that once you get through this mess, having an IP PIN actually makes tax filing more secure going forward. I now get my new PIN in December and file as early as possible in January. Haven't had issues since then. Hang in there - it will get resolved!

I'm so sorry you're dealing with this nightmare! Tax identity theft is one of the most frustrating crimes because it hits you right when you're expecting your refund. I went through this exact situation three years ago and can share what I learned. First, you've done everything right so far with the IP PIN and Form 14039. The waiting is brutal, but here are a few things that helped me get through it: 1. Set up account transcripts online at IRS.gov if you haven't already - sometimes you can see updates there before they show up in "Where's My Refund" 2. Document everything with photos/screenshots. I took pictures of every form I mailed and kept copies of all rejection notices 3. Consider filing a complaint with your state's Attorney General office - some states have task forces that can help escalate federal identity theft cases 4. Don't let this derail your other financial plans. I was so focused on the refund that I forgot to make my quarterly estimated payments and ended up with penalties The good news is that once you get your IP PIN, you're much more protected going forward. I've filed early every January since then (usually by January 20th) and haven't had any issues. Your IdentityGuard service might be useless for tax fraud, but definitely keep monitoring your credit - these fraudsters often branch out to other types of identity theft. Hang in there - you WILL get your legitimate refund, and next year will be much smoother!

The same thing happened to me. One thing no one has mentioned yet - check if your employer offers any pre-tax deductions that might be lowering your taxable wages. Things like: - 401k contributions - HSA/FSA contributions - Health insurance premiums - Commuter benefits I found out my federal withholding seemed super low because almost $20k of my salary wasn't being taxed due to maxing out my 401k and having expensive health insurance. Those pre-tax deductions reduced my taxable income substantially.

I had a very similar situation at my current job! What helped me was actually requesting my payroll department to show me exactly how they were calculating my withholding. It turned out they were using an older version of the withholding tables that didn't account for the 2017 tax law changes properly. Here's what I'd recommend: First, use the IRS withholding calculator online with your exact pay information to see what your withholding SHOULD be. Then compare that to what's actually being withheld. If there's a big difference, take both numbers to your HR/payroll department and ask them to verify their calculations. Also, since you mentioned your coworkers are having the same issue, this really does sound like a systemic problem with how your company is processing W-4s or which withholding tables they're using. You might want to bring this up as a group - sometimes companies are more responsive when multiple employees raise the same concern. The fact that this is happening to everyone suggests it's not just individual W-4 errors. In the meantime, I'd definitely recommend adding extra withholding on line 4(c) of your W-4 to cover the gap until the underlying issue gets resolved.

This thread has been absolutely fantastic! As someone who's been thinking about doing something similar but was worried about all the logistics, seeing everyone's real experiences has been so reassuring. I especially appreciate how thorough everyone has been - from the technical aspects like VPN testing and backup internet options, to the policy updates about simplified approval for short trips, to the practical security considerations like travel routers. It's clear this community really looks out for each other. One thing I wanted to ask - for those who've done this multiple times, do you find that certain times of year are better than others for working from Mexico? I'm wondering if there are seasonal considerations beyond just weather - like internet infrastructure being more strained during peak tourist seasons, or if there are certain months when the approval process might be slower due to holiday schedules. Also, has anyone had experience working from Mexico during major Mexican holidays? I'd hate to plan a trip only to find that local services or internet support might be limited during those times. Thanks again to everyone for sharing such detailed experiences. This is exactly the kind of community support that makes navigating new situations so much easier!

This thread has been incredibly informative! I'm relatively new to Intuit and have been considering a similar arrangement to work from Guadalajara while visiting family. Reading through everyone's experiences has given me so much confidence that this is definitely doable. What really stands out is how much the March policy update has simplified things - just needing manager approval plus the simplified Global Mobility form for trips under 14 days makes this so much more accessible than I initially thought. I'm particularly grateful for all the technical preparation tips. The idea of doing a full workday simulation from a coffee shop before traveling is brilliant - I never would have thought to test file uploads and cloud syncing under suboptimal conditions. And the travel router suggestion for security when handling sensitive data is something I definitely need to look into. The discussion about documentation services was really eye-opening too. Even though some folks were initially skeptical, seeing people come back with their actual results shows how valuable it is to have options when you're in a time crunch or need extra peace of mind. One question I have - has anyone dealt with currency/payment issues while working abroad? Like if you need to expense anything for work purposes, or if there are any complications with direct deposit while you're temporarily in another country? I haven't seen this mentioned yet but it seems like something that could potentially come up. Thanks to everyone for being so generous with sharing your real-world experiences. This community is amazing for practical advice that you just can't get from official policy documents!