


Ask the community...
This is such a frustrating situation, but you're definitely not alone in dealing with this. As someone who's been through similar partnership disputes, I'd strongly recommend documenting everything right now - save all those unanswered emails and voicemails as proof of your good faith efforts. The extension route mentioned earlier is probably your safest bet given the timeline. Form 4868 buys you six months to sort this out properly, and the penalties for underpaying estimated taxes are usually much smaller than the penalties for not filing at all. One thing I'd add - if your fiancΓ©e has bank records showing any distributions or payments from the LLC during the tax year, those can help support whatever estimates she makes. The IRS understands that sometimes partners don't cooperate, but they want to see you made reasonable efforts to comply. Has she tried reaching out to any other business contacts who might know the LLC's accountant? Sometimes going through a mutual connection can break the ice when direct communication isn't working.
That's a really good point about the bank records - I hadn't thought about using distribution records as supporting documentation. She did receive a couple of small payments last year that were deposited directly to her account, so we have those bank statements. We haven't tried the mutual connection approach yet, but that's actually brilliant. Her ex's brother is still friendly with us and works in accounting, so he might know their tax preparer personally. Sometimes a friendly conversation can accomplish more than all the formal requests in the world. The extension is looking more and more like the smart move here. Better to have breathing room to handle this properly than to rush and make mistakes. Thanks for the practical advice!
This situation is unfortunately more common than you'd think, especially with dissolved partnerships. Your fiancΓ©e absolutely should not ignore this - the IRS will expect her to report her share of partnership income regardless of whether she receives the K-1. Here's what I'd recommend based on similar cases I've seen: 1. **File an extension immediately** - Form 4868 gives you until October 15th, but remember any taxes owed are still due April 18th. Estimate conservatively based on prior years. 2. **Create a paper trail** - Send one final certified mail request to both the ex-spouse and the LLC's registered address demanding the K-1. Reference her ownership rights and legal obligation to file taxes. Keep the receipt. 3. **Gather supporting documents** - Previous K-1s, operating agreement, bank statements showing distributions, any correspondence about the business. This establishes her ownership percentage and income pattern. 4. **Consider legal consultation** - A business attorney can send a formal demand letter which often gets faster results than personal requests. Many offer free consultations for straightforward cases like this. The key is showing the IRS she made good faith efforts to obtain required documents. Don't let her ex-spouse's non-cooperation derail her tax compliance - there are ways to handle this properly even without their cooperation.
This is incredibly helpful advice! I especially appreciate the point about sending certified mail to both the ex-spouse AND the LLC's registered address - I hadn't thought about going directly to the business address. That creates an even stronger paper trail showing we exhausted all reasonable options. The legal consultation angle is interesting too. Even if we don't end up needing full legal action, having an attorney send a demand letter might be worth the cost just to get this resolved quickly. Sometimes people respond differently when they see letterhead from a law firm versus personal requests. One question - when you mention estimating conservatively for the extension, should she overestimate her tax liability to avoid underpayment penalties? We have K-1s from the previous two years showing modest profits, but the business has been struggling lately so this year might actually show a loss.
Has anyone used the free tax record service on IRS.gov to see what gambling forms have been reported for them? I'm wondering if I should check mine before filing to make sure everything matches up.
I do this every year! Just go to IRS.gov and search for "Get Transcript" - you can view all the forms that have been reported to your SSN including 1099-MISC from casinos. Super helpful to make sure you're not missing anything. There's usually a bit of a delay though, so forms from December might not show up until February.
Thanks for the tip! I'll definitely check that out. Better to catch any issues before filing than deal with a notice from the IRS later.
Great advice from everyone here! Just wanted to add that if you're using TurboTax like you mentioned, they actually have pretty good guidance for gambling income. When you get to the "Other Income" section, there's a specific pathway for gambling winnings that walks you through everything step by step. One thing to keep in mind - even though you won $8,750, you'll be taxed on that amount at your marginal tax rate (so if you're in the 22% bracket, expect to owe around $1,925 in federal taxes on those winnings). State taxes vary depending on where you live, so factor that in too. Also, make sure you keep really good records of your gambling activity going forward. The IRS can be pretty strict about documentation if they ever audit gambling income, so having detailed records of wins/losses, dates, and amounts will save you headaches later.
This is really helpful info! I'm new to all this tax stuff and had no idea about the marginal tax rate thing. Quick question - when you say keep detailed records going forward, what exactly should I be tracking? Like do I need to write down every single bet I make, or just the big wins and losses? And is there a specific format the IRS wants, or can I just keep a simple spreadsheet?
I went through this exact situation last year with my partner for our heat pump installation. We're both on the deed and split the $8,200 cost 50/50. Here's what we learned from our tax preparer: Each person files their own Form 5695 with their portion of the expenses. So if you split $9,000 evenly, you'd each claim $4,500 on line 1 of Form 5695. The 30% credit calculates to $1,350 each, well under the $2,000 individual cap. The statement we attached was simple: "I am claiming 50% of the qualifying energy efficient home improvement expenses for the heat pump system installed at [our address] based on my 50% ownership interest and financial contribution totaling $4,500." Key things to remember: - Keep all receipts showing how much each person paid - Both statements should match (same percentages) - The $2,000 cap applies per taxpayer, not per property - Installation costs count toward the credit too We had no issues with our returns and both got our full credits. The IRS seems to handle joint occupancy situations fine as long as you're transparent about the split and have documentation.
This is really helpful! I'm in a similar situation and was worried about the documentation requirements. Did you and your partner have to provide any specific proof of your 50/50 ownership beyond being on the deed? Also, did your tax preparer recommend any particular way to word the statement, or was the simple language you used sufficient? I want to make sure we get this right from the start.
Being on the deed together was sufficient proof of ownership for our tax preparer. We didn't need any additional ownership documentation beyond that. For payment proof, we kept copies of our bank transfers/checks showing how much each of us contributed to pay the contractor. The simple language I shared worked perfectly - our tax preparer said the IRS just wants to see that you're being transparent about the allocation and that it matches your actual financial contributions and ownership interests. As long as both of your statements use the same percentages and reference the same property/expenses, you should be fine. One thing our preparer emphasized: make sure you both keep copies of the contractor's invoice and any manufacturer certifications showing the heat pump qualifies for the credit. The IRS may ask for those if they have questions, even though audits for energy credits are relatively uncommon.
Just wanted to add another perspective as someone who works in HVAC sales. When you're getting quotes, make sure your contractor understands you'll be splitting the credit and ask them to provide documentation showing the breakdown of equipment vs. installation costs. This can be helpful for your tax records. Also, timing matters for the credit - the system needs to be "placed in service" during the tax year you're claiming the credit. So if you install in December 2024, you'd claim it on your 2024 returns filed in 2025. But if installation spills into January 2025, it would be a 2025 credit. One more tip: some utility companies offer additional rebates for qualifying heat pumps that stack with the federal credit. Check with your local utility before you buy - these rebates sometimes have waiting lists or limited funding that runs out during the year.
This is really useful advice about the timing! I hadn't thought about the "placed in service" date potentially affecting which tax year we claim the credit. Our installation is scheduled for late December, so I'll make sure to confirm with our contractor that everything will be completed and operational before year-end. The utility rebate tip is gold too - I just checked and our electric company does offer a $500 rebate for qualifying heat pumps that we can stack with the federal credit. Thanks for mentioning that! Do you know if those utility rebates affect the federal credit calculation at all, or can we claim the full 30% of our costs regardless of other rebates we receive?
Great question about utility rebates! Generally, you need to subtract any rebates or incentives you receive from the total cost before calculating the federal credit. So if your heat pump costs $8,000 and you get a $500 utility rebate, you'd calculate the 30% federal credit on $7,500 ($8,000 - $500 = $7,500 x 30% = $2,250 credit). However, there are some exceptions for certain types of rebates, so it's worth checking with a tax professional about your specific situation. The key thing is that you can't "double dip" - the federal government doesn't want to give you a credit on money that was effectively reimbursed by someone else. Also, make sure to get the utility rebate paperwork before you file your taxes, as some tax preparers recommend keeping documentation of all rebates received along with your federal credit documentation.
Adding to what others have shared - the key thing to understand is that TP TAX FIGURES represents YOUR calculation while IMF TOTAL TAX is the IRS's automated recalculation based on all the data they have in their system. The $290 difference in your case suggests they found something specific. Common causes include: - Missing income from a 1099 or W-2 you didn't receive - Incorrect calculation of credits (Child Tax Credit, EITC, etc.) - Wrong filing status or dependency exemptions - Math errors in tax calculations Before accepting the adjustment, I'd recommend getting your Account Transcript and Wage & Income Transcript from the IRS website. The Account Transcript will show exactly what codes they used for the adjustment, and the Wage & Income Transcript will reveal if there's unreported income. You absolutely have the right to contest this within 60 days if you believe it's incorrect. But if their calculation is right, it's better to accept it rather than go through the appeals process unnecessarily.
This is really helpful, thank you! I'm new to dealing with tax adjustments and honestly pretty overwhelmed by all this. Quick question - when you mention getting the Account Transcript and Wage & Income Transcript, can I access those online immediately or do I need to request them by mail? I'm worried about the 60-day deadline and want to make sure I don't miss it while waiting for documents to arrive. Also, are there specific codes I should be looking for on the Account Transcript that would indicate what type of error they found? I'd rather understand exactly what went wrong before I decide whether to contest or accept the adjustment.
You can access both transcripts online immediately through the IRS website (irs.gov) using the "Get Transcript" tool. You'll need to create an account and verify your identity, but once set up, you can view and download them right away - no waiting for mail delivery. For the Account Transcript, look for these key codes: - Code 290: Additional tax assessed - Code 300: Additional tax increase - Code 570: Additional account action pending - Code 971: Notice issued - Codes in the 800s: Credits or adjustments The transaction codes will have descriptions that should clarify what specific issue they found. For example, if it's related to Earned Income Credit, Child Tax Credit, or unreported income, it should be spelled out in the description field next to the code. Since you're within the 60-day window, getting these transcripts should be your first step before deciding how to proceed. They'll give you the concrete details you need to make an informed decision.
I went through almost the exact same situation last year with a $340 difference between my TP TAX FIGURES and IMF TOTAL TAX. After panicking and spending way too much time trying to figure it out on my own, I learned that the IRS has a specific form (Form 8857) you can use to request an abatement if you believe their math error determination is wrong. In my case, it turned out the IRS system had automatically calculated a different amount for the Additional Child Tax Credit because one of my qualifying children had aged out during the tax year, but I hadn't updated my calculations properly. The TP figure showed what I calculated, while the IMF figure reflected the correct age-based eligibility. What really helped me was calling the Practitioner Priority Service line (if you can get a tax professional to call for you) or using the math error procedures outlined in Publication 536. The key is documenting everything and being prepared to explain your position clearly if you do decide to contest it. Don't feel bad about the confusion - the IRS transcript terminology is deliberately cryptic, and the difference between these two figures trips up a lot of people!
Amelia Cartwright
This happened to me last year. Called my second employer just to check and they confirmed they didn't file anything with IRS since I earned $0. But I screenshot our email convo just in case there was ever an audit question. Better safe than sorry!
0 coins
Chris King
β’Smart move getting it in writing. Did you keep that documentation with your tax records? I'm wondering how long I should hang onto stuff like this.
0 coins
Fatima Al-Suwaidi
β’Yes, I kept the email with my tax records for that year. The IRS generally recommends keeping tax records for at least 3 years after filing (or 2 years from when you paid the tax, whichever is later). For situations like this where there's potential confusion about employment status, I'd keep the documentation for the full 3 years just to be safe. It takes up virtually no space as a digital file, and having that employer confirmation could save you headaches if any questions ever come up during an audit.
0 coins
Laila Fury
Just to reinforce what others have said - you're absolutely fine not including that second job on your return. I had a similar situation a couple years back with a consulting gig that never materialized into actual work. No income = nothing to report. The key thing to remember is that the IRS cares about money you actually received, not jobs you held or were eligible for. Since you didn't get any W-2, 1099, or other tax documents from them, there's no paper trail for the IRS to match against your return anyway. Focus on making sure your main job's W-2 is accurately reported and you'll be all set!
0 coins
Victoria Brown
β’This is really reassuring to hear from someone who's been through the exact same situation! I was definitely overthinking it. The "no income = nothing to report" rule makes so much sense when you put it that way. I'm going to stop worrying about it and just focus on getting my main W-2 entered correctly. Thanks for sharing your experience - it's exactly what I needed to hear as someone new to dealing with multiple job situations on tax returns.
0 coins