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Just a heads up that if you decide to take the distribution, Fidelity will issue you a 1099-R for the distribution in January 2025 (for your 2024 taxes). Make sure you keep documentation showing this was a return of excess contributions so you can properly report it on your taxes. The form might not be coded correctly to indicate this was a correction, so you might need to explain it when filing.

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One additional thing to consider - make sure you understand the timing requirements. The IRS requires that excess contributions be distributed by the tax filing deadline (including extensions) for the year the excess occurred. For 2023 overcontributions, that would typically be April 15, 2024, or October 15, 2024 if you file an extension. If you miss this deadline, you can still take the distribution later, but it becomes more complicated tax-wise. You'd potentially face the 6% excise tax for 2023, then need to take the distribution in a subsequent year (which would be taxable in that year), and you'd need to file Form 5329 with your tax return. Given that we're already past the April deadline, I'd recommend checking if you filed an extension for your 2023 taxes. If not, you might want to consult a tax professional about the best way to handle this situation going forward.

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Ryan Young

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This is really helpful information about the timing requirements! I had no idea there were specific deadlines for correcting excess contributions. Since I didn't file an extension and we're past April 15th, it sounds like I'm already in the more complicated territory you mentioned. Should I still go ahead and request the distribution from Fidelity, or do I need to handle this differently now? And what exactly is Form 5329 - is that something I can file myself or do I definitely need professional help at this point? I'm kicking myself for not dealing with this sooner, but better late than never I guess!

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Just to throw in my experience - I skipped filing Form 6251 last year when I had a small ISO exercise (around $6,000 spread) because my calculations showed I owed zero AMT. Got a letter from the IRS three months later asking me to submit the form. Wasn't a full audit or anything, but definitely created extra work I could have avoided.

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Did you get penalized or just had to submit the form after the fact? I'm in a similar situation and wondering what the consequences might be.

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Based on everyone's experiences here, it sounds like Form 6251 is pretty much required when you have ISO activity, even if you don't owe AMT. I'm dealing with a similar situation - exercised some ISOs last year and trying to figure out the most cost-effective way to handle my taxes. Has anyone tried just preparing the Form 6251 by hand and then entering the results into FreeTaxUSA manually? I'm wondering if that might be a middle-ground approach that avoids the expensive software while still meeting the IRS requirements. The form itself doesn't seem too complex if you have your Form 3921 information handy. Also curious if there are any good resources or guides specifically for calculating AMT on ISOs that don't require expensive software subscriptions?

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I actually did exactly what you're suggesting - prepared Form 6251 by hand and then entered the results into FreeTaxUSA manually. It's definitely doable if you're comfortable with tax forms and have your Form 3921 handy. The IRS has pretty clear instructions for Form 6251, and there are worksheets that walk you through the AMT calculation step by step. I used IRS Publication 535 and the form instructions to figure out how to calculate the adjustment for my ISOs. The trickiest part was understanding how to calculate the AMT adjustment (the difference between fair market value and exercise price), but once you have that number, the rest of the form is straightforward arithmetic. For resources, I found the IRS's own AMT Assistant tool helpful for understanding the concepts, even though it doesn't handle the specific ISO calculations. The key is making sure you report the bargain element from your ISOs as an AMT preference item on line 2j of Form 6251. It took me about an hour to work through everything, but I saved probably $50+ compared to upgrading to tax software that handles it automatically. Just make sure to double-check your math since you're doing it manually!

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Sofia Torres

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Just dealt with this exact scenario last month! Had a client with twins born in late November, SSNs issued in December. Same rejection code you got. What worked for us: I called the practitioner priority line (as Mason mentioned) and the rep actually walked me through a workaround. There's a specific form you can attach to a paper return called Form 8948 that expedites processing for SSN database mismatches. The key is writing "NEW DEPENDENT SSN - DATABASE MISMATCH" in red ink across the top of the first page. We paper filed with this approach and got the refund processed in just under 5 weeks, which was way faster than the 8-12 weeks they initially quoted. The rep also mentioned that February-March is actually prime time for these issues since so many December babies get their SSNs in January. One tip: make copies of everything and send via certified mail. The IRS has been losing a surprising number of paper returns lately, and you'll want that tracking confirmation.

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This is really helpful information about Form 8948! I've never heard of that form being used for SSN database mismatches - is this something relatively new? I'm definitely going to look into this approach for future cases. The 5-week turnaround time is much more reasonable than what I was expecting for paper filing. Do you happen to know if this expedited process works for other types of database mismatches too, like name changes or address updates that haven't synced yet?

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This is such a frustrating but common issue! I've been dealing with these SSN database lag problems for years. One thing I'd add to the great advice already given - if you do decide to paper file, make sure to include a detailed cover letter explaining the situation and attach a copy of the SSN card and birth certificate. I've found that being very explicit about the timing (child born December, SSN issued January, filed in [current month]) helps the processors understand immediately what's happening and can sometimes speed up the review process. Also, definitely keep trying to e-file every 2-3 weeks if your clients are willing to wait. I've had cases where the SSN suddenly appeared in the system after 6 weeks, and others that took 10+ weeks. There's really no rhyme or reason to the timing. One last tip - if you do paper file and don't hear anything after 8 weeks, you can call and request a "tracer" on the return. Sometimes paper returns get stuck in processing and the tracer can help locate and expedite them.

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Alfredo Lugo

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I've been dealing with K-1 forms for a few years now and this is such a common frustration! The issue you're running into is that FreeTaxUSA, while great for most standard tax situations, has limitations when it comes to the more complex aspects of partnership tax reporting that K-1s often involve. Since you mentioned this is from a rental property investment, there are likely passive activity rules at play that require additional forms like Form 8582. Even though your situation might seem straightforward, rental property partnerships often trigger these rules automatically, and FreeTaxUSA just doesn't have the capability to handle the calculations properly. I'd strongly recommend switching to software that can handle K-1s properly rather than trying to work around it. TaxAct Premium seems to be the most cost-effective option that people have had success with based on the other comments here. Yes, it's more expensive than FreeTaxUSA, but filing incorrectly because of software limitations could cost you way more in the long run if the IRS flags your return for review. Don't feel bad about having to switch - this happens to tons of people every year when their tax situation gets just a bit more complex than basic software can handle!

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Ally Tailer

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This is exactly what I needed to hear! I was starting to feel like I was doing something wrong since FreeTaxUSA has worked perfectly for me in the past. It's reassuring to know this is a common issue and not just me being incompetent with tax software. You're absolutely right about not wanting to risk filing incorrectly - the potential headache and costs from an IRS review would definitely outweigh the extra money for better software. Based on all the recommendations in this thread, I think I'm going to bite the bullet and switch to TaxAct Premium. Thanks for putting it in perspective and making me feel less frustrated about the whole situation!

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Nia Wilson

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I've been through this exact frustration with FreeTaxUSA and K-1 forms! The issue usually comes down to specific reporting requirements that FreeTaxUSA simply can't handle. For rental property K-1s like yours, it's almost always related to passive activity loss rules or at-risk limitations that require additional forms. Here's what I'd recommend: First, check Box 20 on your K-1 for any letter codes - if you see codes A, B, C, or D, that's definitely what's causing the error. These codes indicate you need Form 8582 for passive activity limitations, which FreeTaxUSA doesn't support well. Based on everyone's experiences here, TaxAct Premium seems to be the sweet spot for handling K-1s without breaking the bank. It's more than FreeTaxUSA but way less than TurboTax Premier, and it actually knows how to properly process all the passive activity rules and generate the right supporting forms automatically. Don't try to manually enter K-1 info in other sections of FreeTaxUSA - that's asking for trouble with the IRS. K-1 income has to flow through specific schedules and forms to be reported correctly. Better to spend a bit more on proper software than deal with potential audit issues later!

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This whole thread has been incredibly helpful! I'm completely new to dealing with K-1 forms - this is my first year having one from a small investment property my spouse and I bought with another couple. I was getting so stressed seeing that error message in FreeTaxUSA because I thought I was doing something wrong. Reading everyone's experiences here makes me feel so much better about just switching software instead of trying to figure out some complicated workaround. It sounds like TaxAct Premium is definitely the way to go based on multiple people's recommendations. Quick question - when you switch from FreeTaxUSA to TaxAct, do you lose the state filing that was included, or do you have to buy that separately? Just want to make sure I understand the full cost before I make the switch. Thanks for all the detailed explanations everyone!

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Ravi Sharma

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Make sure you're also considering state taxes in your calculations! I completely forgot about state-level capital gains taxes when doing my estimates last year and got hit with an underpayment penalty in my state.

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NebulaNomad

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This varies a lot by state though. Some states like Florida and Texas don't have income tax at all, while others like California tax capital gains as ordinary income at rates up to 13.3%. Where are you located, OP?

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Josef Tearle

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Great thread everyone! I've been dealing with a similar situation and wanted to add a few practical tips from my experience: 1. **Keep detailed records** - Make sure you have documentation of your carried-over losses from previous years' tax returns (Schedule D from each year). The IRS won't calculate this for you. 2. **Consider timing of future trades** - Since you're required to use all carryover losses this year, think strategically about any additional trades you might make before year-end. You might want to harvest some gains now while you have losses to offset them. 3. **Don't forget about the wash sale rule** - If any of your current gains or previous losses involved stocks you bought/sold within 30 days of each other, the wash sale rule could complicate your calculations. 4. **Plan for next year** - After using up your $93k in carryover losses, you'll be starting fresh next year. Consider whether you want to harvest any losses before December 31st to have carryovers available for 2026. The key takeaway everyone's mentioned is correct - you must use ALL carryover losses against current gains. But proper planning around this requirement can still help optimize your overall tax situation!

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Oscar O'Neil

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This is incredibly helpful, especially the point about planning for next year! I hadn't thought about the fact that after using up all my carryover losses, I'll essentially be starting with a clean slate in 2026. The wash sale rule is something I definitely need to look into - I've been pretty active with some of the same stocks over the past few months. Do you know if there are any tools that can help identify potential wash sale situations, or is it something I need to track manually through all my trades? Also, regarding harvesting losses before year-end - since I'll be using up all my current carryovers anyway, would it make sense to actually harvest some GAINS now while I still have these losses to offset them? Seems like this might be one of those rare situations where realizing gains could be strategic.

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