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Maria, I went through something very similar last year when I had to withdraw $6,000 from my Roth for an emergency car repair. The good news is it's much more straightforward than it initially seems! A few practical tips from my experience: First, when you contact your brokerage to make the withdrawal, specifically tell them you want to withdraw "contributions only" - while technically all withdrawals come from contributions first anyway, having this documented in their records can be helpful later. Second, ask them to email you a confirmation of the withdrawal details for your records. When tax time comes, you'll get that 1099-R form that shows the total withdrawal amount. Don't panic when you see it - it will likely show the full amount as a "distribution" without specifying it's penalty-free contributions. That's totally normal. Form 8606 Part III is where you tell the IRS the real story. One thing I wish I had known: keep a simple spreadsheet or document tracking your total Roth contributions by year. It makes filling out Form 8606 so much easier. I had to dig through three years of tax returns to reconstruct my contribution history, which was stressful during an already stressful time. TurboTax walked me through the whole process pretty smoothly once I had all my paperwork together. You've got this!
This is such great practical advice, Yuki! I'm curious about your suggestion to keep a spreadsheet of contributions by year - do you think that's necessary if someone is using tax software like TurboTax that should be tracking this information? I've been relying on TurboTax to handle my Roth contribution records, but now I'm wondering if I should be keeping my own separate tracking system. Also, when you told your brokerage you wanted to withdraw "contributions only," did they actually note that somewhere specific in your account, or was it just verbal documentation?
Great question Sean! I definitely recommend keeping your own spreadsheet even if you use TurboTax. While TurboTax does track contributions year to year, having your own backup has saved me twice - once when I accidentally deleted my TurboTax account data during a computer crash, and another time when I needed to reference my contribution history quickly without opening the software. My spreadsheet is super simple: just columns for year, contribution amount, and any notes (like "backdoor Roth conversion" if applicable). I update it every January after I make my contribution. As for the brokerage notation - when I called Fidelity, the rep actually put a note in my account activity log that said "withdrawal request - contributions only per customer." It showed up in my online account history along with the transaction details. I took a screenshot of that note just in case I ever needed it for documentation. Not all brokerages might do this, but it's worth asking them to note your intent somewhere in their system. Having that paper trail made me feel much more confident when filing my taxes.
Maria, I completely understand your stress about this situation! I've been through a similar withdrawal process myself and want to reassure you that withdrawing Roth contributions is actually one of the more straightforward tax situations, even though it can feel overwhelming at first. Since you're only withdrawing $7,500 from your $18,000 in contributions, you're well within safe territory - no taxes, no penalties. The key thing to remember is that your brokerage's 1099-R will just show the withdrawal amount without distinguishing contributions from earnings, so you'll need Form 8606 Part III to tell the IRS this was a contribution withdrawal. For documentation, I'd suggest creating a simple folder (physical or digital) with: your last 3 years of tax returns showing your Roth contributions, any year-end brokerage statements, and the 1099-R you'll receive for this withdrawal. This gives you a complete paper trail if you ever need it. One practical tip: when you call your brokerage to initiate the withdrawal, ask them to note in your account that you're specifically requesting a "contribution withdrawal." While all withdrawals technically come from contributions first anyway, having this documented can provide extra peace of mind. You're making the right choice by only touching contributions and leaving your earnings to continue growing. The paperwork might seem intimidating, but TurboTax should handle most of the heavy lifting once you have your 1099-R in hand. You've got this!
This is really solid advice, Yara! I'm actually dealing with a similar situation right now - need to withdraw about $4,000 from my Roth for an unexpected job loss situation. One thing I'm wondering about is timing - does it matter if I make the withdrawal near the end of the tax year versus earlier in the year? Like, will it affect how I report it on my taxes if I withdraw in December 2025 versus January 2025? Also, you mentioned asking the brokerage to note it's a "contribution withdrawal" - have you found that all major brokerages (Vanguard, Schwab, etc.) are familiar with this type of request, or do some of them seem confused about the distinction?
Could also be interest they paid you on your escrow account! My lender sent me a 1099 for $27.38 which was apparently the interest earned on my escrow funds. Totally forgot that was a thing, but if you live in a state that requires lenders to pay interest on escrow accounts, that might be it.
I went through this exact same confusion last year! In my case, the 1099-MISC was for a lender credit I received at closing that reduced my closing costs by $800. I had completely forgotten about it until I dug through all my closing paperwork. The tricky part is that these lender incentives (whether they're cashback, closing cost credits, or promotional bonuses) are considered taxable income by the IRS, even though they feel like discounts to us as borrowers. Your 1098 form for mortgage interest is completely separate and unaffected by this. If you still can't figure out what the 1099-MISC amount corresponds to, I'd recommend checking your Closing Disclosure (CD) form from your purchase. Look for any credits, rebates, or incentives listed there. The amount on your 1099-MISC should match one of those items. Sometimes they break down larger credits into smaller components too, so don't be surprised if the math isn't immediately obvious. When you file your taxes, you'll report this as "Other Income" and yes, you'll owe taxes on it at your regular income tax rate. It's annoying to discover after the fact, but at least now you know for any future home purchases!
This is super helpful! I'm a first-time homebuyer and had no idea that lender credits could be taxable income. I just closed on my house last month and received a $1200 lender credit to help with closing costs. Should I expect to get a 1099-MISC for that amount next year? I want to start preparing now so I'm not caught off guard like the original poster was. Also, do you know if there's a minimum threshold for when lenders have to issue these forms?
I went through this exact same situation about 5 months ago and completely understand that sinking feeling when you see Form 9143! In my case, the issue turned out to be that I had signed my return with a purple gel pen (I know, not my smartest choice) which their scanning system couldn't process properly. What really helped me was calling the specific phone number listed on the Form 9143 itself rather than the general IRS helpline. The agent was able to tell me exactly what was wrong - apparently purple ink doesn't scan well in their system, and gel pens can be too inconsistent for their fraud detection algorithms. Here's what worked for me: - Used a regular blue ballpoint pen (blue ink shows it's an original signature) - Signed at my kitchen table with the form completely flat - no magazines or clipboards underneath - Took my time and signed my normal signature, just more carefully than usual - Made sure the signature stayed within the box boundaries - Attached the Form 9143 to the top when I mailed everything back My return was processed in exactly 19 days after resubmission, and I got my full refund with zero penalties since I had filed on time originally. The agent also confirmed that this type of correction doesn't affect your filing status at all - you're still considered timely filed. Your $1,230 is definitely coming! This happens to thousands of people every tax season and it's always resolvable. Just breathe, sign carefully with good blue ink, and try not to stress too much about it. You've got this!
This is incredibly helpful! I never would have thought about how different ink colors could affect their scanning systems. Purple gel pen - that's definitely something I might have done without thinking about it! It's so interesting how specific their requirements are for the scanning technology. Your tip about calling the specific number on Form 9143 rather than the general IRS line is gold. I've heard horror stories about waiting on hold for hours with the main helpline, so knowing there's a more direct route for this specific issue could save so much time and frustration. The 19-day processing time you got is really encouraging! And I love that you got confirmation from an actual IRS agent that this doesn't affect your filing status - that's exactly the kind of reassurance I'd want to hear directly from the source. Thanks for emphasizing the "just breathe" part too. It's easy to catastrophize when you get official letters from the IRS, but reading all these success stories really shows this is just routine paperwork stuff that gets sorted out pretty quickly once you know what to do!
I completely understand that panic feeling! I just went through this exact situation about 3 months ago with my own Form 9143, and I know how overwhelming it can feel when you're expecting a refund and get that letter instead. In my case, it turned out I had used a black felt-tip pen that was too thick and inconsistent for their scanning system. The IRS has definitely upgraded their signature verification technology recently, which explains why signatures that worked fine in previous years are now getting flagged more often. Here's what I learned that helped me get it resolved quickly: - Use a standard blue ballpoint pen (blue ink proves it's an original document, and ballpoint gives consistent ink flow) - Sign on a completely flat, hard surface - I made the mistake of signing on top of a stack of papers which made my signature uneven - Take your time and sign your normal signature, just more deliberately than usual - Make sure your signature fits entirely within the signature box boundaries - Include the Form 9143 on top when you mail everything back The good news is this absolutely does not count as late filing since you submitted on time originally - you won't face any penalties or interest charges. My return was processed in about 20 days after I resubmitted, and I got my full refund without any issues. Your $1,230 is definitely still coming! This is just a routine verification step that happens to thousands of taxpayers every season. It feels scary because it's from the IRS, but it's really just a minor paperwork correction. Try to think of it as them being thorough about fraud prevention rather than finding fault with your filing. You've got this - just sign clearly with good blue ink and send it back promptly!
This is such a comprehensive breakdown - thank you for sharing your experience! I'm actually dealing with this exact situation right now and was feeling pretty overwhelmed until I found this thread. Your point about the IRS upgrading their signature verification technology really explains why this seems to be happening more frequently lately. I had no idea that felt-tip pens could cause scanning issues, or that signing on uneven surfaces could affect the signature quality. These are the kinds of details that make all the difference but that you'd never think about unless someone who's been through it shares their experience. The 20-day processing timeline you mentioned is really reassuring - I was worried this could drag on for months and mess up my financial planning. And hearing direct confirmation that there are no penalties for this type of correction since the original filing was timely is exactly what I needed to hear. I really appreciate how you framed this as fraud prevention rather than finding fault with the filing. That's such a helpful way to think about it - they're just being thorough to protect everyone, not trying to make our lives difficult. Thanks for taking the time to share all these specific tips!
the irs website is useless for this stuff fr fr. Called them 3 times got 3 different answers smh
been on hold with them for 2 hours rn š
Kaylee Cook
has anyone tried getting their w2 info through the irs "get transcript" online? i heard you can get wage & income transcripts that show all your w2 info there but when i tried to set up an account it wanted a credit card number or loan account number for verification and i don't have either of those things? super annoying.
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Oliver Alexander
ā¢The IRS "Get Transcript" tool is actually really useful if you can get through the verification. They've made it harder to verify your identity because of security concerns. If you don't have a credit card or loan, try the "Get Transcript by Mail" option. It's slower (takes 5-10 business days) but has fewer verification requirements. You'll just need your SSN, date of birth, and mailing address from your last tax return.
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Elijah Brown
I went through this exact same situation last year! Here's what worked for me: First, try sending a certified letter to your previous employer's HR department requesting your W-2. This creates a paper trail and shows you made a formal request. Include your full name, SSN, employment dates, and current mailing address. If that doesn't work within 2 weeks, definitely call the IRS at 800-829-1040. They can contact your employer directly and will also send you a wage and income transcript that has all the same information as your W-2. The transcript is actually accepted by most tax software and preparers. One tip: if you have your final paystub from that job, it should show your year-to-date earnings and withholdings, which is basically all the info that would be on your W-2. Many tax preparers can work with that if you're in a real time crunch. Don't stress too much - this happens more often than you'd think, and there are definitely ways to get the info you need before the deadline!
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Freya Ross
ā¢This is really helpful advice! I'm curious about the certified letter approach - does that actually put more pressure on employers to respond? I've been hesitant to go that route because I don't want to burn bridges with my former company, but at this point I'm running out of time. Also, when you say the wage and income transcript is accepted by tax software, does that mean I can just upload it directly like I would a regular W-2?
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Noah huntAce420
ā¢The certified letter definitely does add more pressure because it shows you're serious and creates documentation that could be useful if you need to escalate further. Most employers respond quickly once they get a certified letter because they know you're creating a paper trail. Don't worry too much about burning bridges - you're just asking for something you're legally entitled to receive. For the wage and income transcript, most modern tax software (TurboTax, H&R Block, etc.) can handle it, but you might need to manually enter the numbers rather than uploading it like a traditional W-2. The transcript has all the same information - wages, federal tax withheld, Social Security wages, Medicare wages - just in a slightly different format. Your tax preparer will know exactly what to do with it if you're using a professional service. The key thing is that the IRS accepts it as equivalent to a W-2, so you're completely covered from a legal standpoint for filing your taxes on time.
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