Can't reach IRS? Claimyr connects you to a live IRS agent in minutes.
Claimyr is a pay-as-you-go service. We do not charge a recurring subscription.
Using Claimyr will:
- Connect you to a human agent at the IRS
- Skip the long phone menu
- Call the correct department
- Redial until on hold
- Forward a call to your phone with reduced hold time
- Give you free callbacks if the IRS drops your call
If I could give 10 stars I would
If I could give 10 stars I would If I could give 10 stars I would Such an amazing service so needed during the times when EDD almost never picks up Claimyr gets me on the phone with EDD every time without fail faster. A much needed service without Claimyr I would have never received the payment I needed to support me during my postpartum recovery. Thank you so much Claimyr!
Really made a difference
Really made a difference, save me time and energy from going to a local office for making the call.
Worth not wasting your time calling for hours.
Was a bit nervous or untrusting at first, but my calls went thru. First time the wait was a bit long but their customer chat line on their page was helpful and put me at ease that I would receive my call. Today my call dropped because of EDD and Claimyr heard my concern on the same chat and another call was made within the hour.
An incredibly helpful service
An incredibly helpful service! Got me connected to a CA EDD agent without major hassle (outside of EDD's agents dropping calls – which Claimyr has free protection for). If you need to file a new claim and can't do it online, pay the $ to Claimyr to get the process started. Absolutely worth it!
Consistent,frustration free, quality Service.
Used this service a couple times now. Before I'd call 200 times in less than a weak frustrated as can be. But using claimyr with a couple hours of waiting i was on the line with an representative or on hold. Dropped a couple times but each reconnected not long after and was mission accomplished, thanks to Claimyr.
IT WORKS!! Not a scam!
I tried for weeks to get thru to EDD PFL program with no luck. I gave this a try thinking it may be a scam. OMG! It worked and They got thru within an hour and my claim is going to finally get paid!! I upgraded to the $60 call. Best $60 spent!
Ask the community...
- DO post questions about your issues.
- DO answer questions and support each other.
- DO post tips & tricks to help folks.
- DO NOT post call problems here - there is a support tab at the top for that :)
Join the conversation
Join the conversation
You're absolutely right to be cautious about those numbers! Yes, since you don't have earned income, your standard deduction as a dependent would be limited to $1,150 for 2024. With $750 in gambling winnings, you'd have $750 - $1,150 = $0 taxable income, so you shouldn't owe any federal income tax. However, the key question is whether FanDuel withheld any taxes from your winnings. If they did withhold federal taxes (which they sometimes do for larger winnings), that's where your refund would come from - getting back taxes that were withheld but not actually owed. Check your 1099-MISC from FanDuel in box 4 to see if any federal income tax was withheld. If there's an amount there, that's likely what FreeTaxUSA is showing as your potential refund. If box 4 is blank or $0, then you probably won't get a refund but you also shouldn't owe anything either. Make sure when you're in FreeTaxUSA that you've selected "Someone can claim you as a dependent" so it calculates everything correctly with the limited standard deduction!
This is such a clear breakdown, thank you! I just checked my 1099-MISC from FanDuel and there is $180 in box 4 for federal withholding. That explains exactly where the refund is coming from - they withheld $180 but based on what you're saying about the $1,150 standard deduction, I probably don't actually owe any federal tax on the $750 winnings. I went back into FreeTaxUSA and made sure I checked the "Someone can claim you as a dependent" box, and now the numbers make perfect sense. Getting that $180 back as a refund since it was over-withheld. Really appreciate everyone's help in this thread - I was so confused before but now I understand exactly what's happening with my tax situation!
Perfect! It sounds like you've got everything figured out now. Just to add one more thing for peace of mind - since you and your fiancé are in this situation where he's claiming you as a dependent, you might want to keep good records of your respective tax filings in case the IRS ever has questions. It's pretty straightforward when done correctly (which it sounds like you're doing), but having documentation that shows he meets the requirements to claim you as a qualifying relative dependent, and that you filed correctly as someone who can be claimed, just helps if there are ever any questions down the road. Congrats on the FanDuel win and getting that $180 back! Sounds like you'll be filing correctly and everything will work out smoothly.
Great advice about keeping records! As someone new to tax situations like this, I'm wondering - what specific documents should they keep beyond just copies of their filed returns? Like, should they document things like shared living expenses or support provided? Just want to make sure I understand what "good records" means in case I'm ever in a similar situation.
Join the conversation
This is such a timely question! I just went through this exact scenario with a duplex I bought in 2019 and converted to rental property last year. Like you, I noticed the county assessments fluctuated quite a bit - from 18%/82% in 2019 to 23%/77% in 2024. After consulting with my tax advisor, we definitively used the 2019 assessment percentages. The key phrase in Publication 527 that sealed it for me was "at the time you buy it" - this clearly establishes that your cost basis allocation should reflect the property's composition when you acquired it, not when you put it into service as a rental. Here's what I did for documentation: 1. Downloaded and saved the 2019 county assessment showing the land/building breakdown 2. Created a calculation worksheet showing: Purchase price × 2019 land percentage = non-depreciable land value 3. Kept a copy of the relevant section from Publication 527 with my tax records One thing to watch out for - make sure you're looking at the assessment that was in effect for your 2016 tax year, not necessarily the assessment date closest to your purchase date. Sometimes counties do mid-year reassessments that might not reflect the values at your time of purchase. You're definitely on the right track using the 2016 percentages!
This is incredibly helpful! I'm dealing with almost the same timeline - bought in 2017, converting now. Your point about checking which assessment was in effect for the actual tax year (not just the closest date) is something I hadn't considered. My county did a mid-year reassessment in late 2017 that changed the percentages significantly. I need to verify whether the assessment that was used for my 2017 property taxes is the one I should be using, or if the revised assessment (even though it happened after my purchase) would be more appropriate. Did you run into any timing issues like this with your 2019 purchase? Also, thank you for the documentation checklist - that's exactly what I needed to make sure I'm covering all my bases!
Great question about the timing! I actually did face a similar situation - my county reassessed in October 2019, about 3 months after I purchased in July. In my case, I used the assessment that was in effect when I actually bought the property (the pre-reassessment values), since that's what determined the property's tax treatment at the time of my acquisition. The way I thought about it: if you bought your property before the mid-year reassessment, then the original 2017 assessment percentages would be the appropriate ones to use. The key is matching your cost basis allocation to the property's assessed composition at the moment you became the owner, not what it became later that same year. To be absolutely sure, I'd recommend calling your county assessor's office and asking specifically which assessment was used for calculating your 2017 property tax bill. That's the assessment that was "in effect" for your property at the time of purchase. Some counties prorate when reassessments happen mid-year, but many don't apply the new assessment until the following tax year. Hope this helps clarify the timing aspect!
You're absolutely right to use the 2016 assessment percentages! I went through this same situation when I converted my primary residence to a rental property. The IRS is very clear in Publication 527 that the allocation should be based on values "at the time you buy it." I made the mistake initially of using current assessment percentages when I first prepared my depreciation schedule, but my tax preparer caught it and we had to revise everything. Using the purchase-year percentages is not only the correct method according to IRS guidance, but it also makes logical sense - you're establishing your cost basis based on what you actually acquired back in 2016. Make sure you save a copy of the 2016 county assessment records showing those percentages. If your county website doesn't go back that far, you can usually request historical records from the assessor's office. Having that documentation in your tax files will be invaluable if you're ever questioned about your depreciation calculations. The fact that the percentages have fluctuated over the years actually reinforces why the IRS specifies using the purchase-date values - it prevents taxpayers from cherry-picking favorable percentages from different years.
This is such valuable advice! I'm curious about one thing - when you had to revise your depreciation schedule after initially using the wrong percentages, did that create any complications with the IRS or was it just a matter of filing an amended return? I'm trying to make sure I get this right the first time, but it's good to know there are ways to correct it if needed. Also, did your tax preparer give you any specific guidance on how to format the documentation? I want to make sure I'm organizing my records in a way that clearly shows my methodology and supports the calculations.
Join the conversation
Has anyone successfully claimed QSBS exclusion on their taxes using TurboTax or similar software? The asset test is just one part - I'm unclear on how to actually report this on my return.
I used H&R Block Premium last year for a QSBS gain. You report it on Schedule D and Form 8949 with code "Q" in column (f). The software asked me questions about the $50M asset test and other requirements, then calculated the exclusion percentage based on my holding period. Just make sure you have documentation from the company confirming they met the requirements.
This is exactly the kind of complex tax question that trips up so many angel investors! The $50M asset test is indeed measured at each stock issuance, not cumulatively over the company's lifetime. What makes it particularly tricky is that you need to know the company's aggregate gross assets both immediately before AND immediately after your investment. For your 2025 tax planning, I'd recommend reaching out to each portfolio company directly. Ask them to confirm: 1) their aggregate gross assets on the date you invested, 2) whether they had less than $50M before your investment, and 3) whether they stayed under $50M after your investment. You can't assume from funding announcements alone since the timing of when you personally received shares matters. Also keep in mind that even if a company later exceeds the $50M limit in subsequent rounds, your earlier shares can still qualify as QSBS if they met the requirements when you received them. The key is documenting the asset levels at your specific investment date, not the company's current status.
This is really helpful clarification! I'm curious about one scenario though - what happens if you invest in multiple rounds of the same company? Let's say I invested $5K in their seed round when they had $20M in assets, then another $10K in their Series A when they had $45M in assets. Would both investments qualify for QSBS treatment, or does the later investment somehow affect the earlier one's qualification? Also, when you mention asking companies for their asset levels "immediately before AND immediately after" the investment - how precise does this timing need to be? If the company closes a $30M round over several weeks with different investors, does each investor get evaluated based on when their specific wire transfer cleared, or is it based on when the round officially closed for everyone?
Great questions @Liv Park! Each investment round is evaluated independently for QSBS qualification, so your seed round investment at $20M assets and Series A investment at $45M assets would both qualify separately as long as each met the requirements at their respective times. One round's qualification doesn't affect another's. For the timing precision - this is where it gets technical. The asset test is applied when the corporation issues the stock, not when you wire the money. In a rolling close scenario, each investor's stock issuance date matters. So if the company had $45M in assets when they issued your shares but $52M when they issued shares to someone who invested a week later, your shares could qualify while theirs wouldn't. Most startups handle this by doing formal closings in tranches (e.g., "First Close" with $20M raised, then "Second Close" with additional $10M). The company's asset level at each closing date determines QSBS qualification for that tranche of investors. This is why getting the exact stock issuance date from the company is crucial, not just the overall round timeline.
Join the conversation
This has been such an incredibly helpful thread! I'm dealing with the exact same issue - my income increased by about 35% this year but the IRS sales tax calculator is showing a lower estimate than last year. I was starting to think there was something wrong with the calculator or that I was missing something obvious. The explanation about BLS consumption data and how the IRS models different spending behaviors for various income brackets is a total game-changer. It makes perfect sense that higher earners would be statistically modeled as allocating more money toward savings, investments, and non-taxable services rather than just buying proportionally more taxable goods. I never would have figured that out on my own! What I find particularly valuable is learning about all the different approaches for dealing with this situation. The tools like taxr.ai for understanding how your specific circumstances map to the IRS calculations sound really useful, especially if you suspect your spending patterns don't match the statistical models. And the Claimyr service for actually getting through to IRS agents without the usual hold time nightmare could be a lifesaver. I'm definitely going to try the taxr.ai analysis first to see how my situation compares to what the IRS is assuming for my income bracket. If there's a significant disconnect, I might consider tracking receipts manually for the rest of the year to see if that results in a higher actual deduction. Thanks everyone for turning what seemed like a simple calculator malfunction into such an educational discussion about how these systems actually work behind the scenes!
Welcome to the community! This thread has been such a great example of how collective knowledge can really help unpack these confusing tax situations. I'm also relatively new here and was amazed at how much insight everyone shared about what seemed like a simple calculator issue. Your 35% income increase situation is so similar to what many others have described - it's reassuring to know this isn't an uncommon experience! The BLS consumption data explanation really was the key to understanding why higher income doesn't automatically mean higher sales tax deductions. I'm curious if you end up trying the taxr.ai analysis - it would be great to hear how that works out for someone in a similar situation. The idea of seeing exactly how your spending patterns compare to what the IRS assumes for your income bracket sounds really valuable, especially for those of us who might not fit the typical statistical models. Thanks for sharing your experience and adding to this incredibly informative discussion! It's exactly these kinds of real-world examples that help make sense of complex tax concepts.
This entire discussion has been absolutely eye-opening! I had no idea that the IRS sales tax calculator was using Bureau of Labor Statistics consumption data to model spending behaviors rather than just doing straightforward percentage calculations based on income. As someone who recently joined this community and is dealing with tax questions for the first time as a higher earner, the explanation about how the IRS assumes different spending patterns at various income levels makes so much sense. It's counterintuitive that making more money doesn't automatically result in a proportionally higher sales tax deduction, but the logic about higher earners allocating more to savings and non-taxable services is spot on. I'm particularly interested in the tools mentioned here like taxr.ai for understanding how individual situations map to the IRS calculations. It sounds like this could be really valuable for people whose spending habits don't align with the statistical models for their income bracket. The browser inconsistency issue that Amina mentioned is definitely concerning - tax calculations should be consistent regardless of which browser you're using. Has anyone else experienced this or found a workaround? Thanks to everyone for creating such an informative discussion. This is exactly the kind of practical insight that's impossible to find in official IRS documentation but makes all the difference when you're trying to understand these systems!
Mei Liu
Just a quick tip - whenever you mail tax payments to ANY tax agency, always get a tracking number from USPS, FedEx or UPS. It costs a few bucks but gives you proof of when you sent it and when they received it. Has saved me from late payment penalties more than once when the tax office claimed they "never received" my payment. That tracking number receipt is gold when disputing penalties!
0 coins
Ethan Brown
•That's great advice, wish I'd thought of that earlier! Do you also recommend sending a check instead of a money order for tax payments? I've been using money orders but wondering if checks are better for tracking purposes.
0 coins
Mei Liu
•I always use checks instead of money orders for tax payments because they give you an extra layer of proof. When your check clears, you have both the tracking delivery confirmation AND your bank statement showing they cashed it. With money orders, you have to go through more steps to prove it was cashed. Also, if there's ever a dispute about WHEN you paid, the date the check was cashed is clear evidence. Just make sure to write your tax ID number and the tax form number in the memo line of the check to help them process it correctly.
0 coins
Liam O'Sullivan
Has anyone had luck with paying Arizona taxes online instead of mailing payments? Their website looks confusing and I'm not sure if I need to register for something special first. Might be easier than dealing with addresses and mail.
0 coins
Amara Chukwu
•Yes! I switched to paying online last year and it's WAY easier. Go to AZTaxes.gov and create an account. You'll need your SSN, last year's tax info, and a bank account for direct debit. Once registered, you can make payments for Form 140, estimated taxes, and even set up payment plans. They send confirmation emails for everything so you have proof of payment too.
0 coins