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Ava Williams

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anyone else noticed TaxAct has gotten worse with self employment stuff lately? last year navigation was much smoother. now I keep hitting these weird roadblocks like the OP mentioned. might switch to FreeTaxUSA next year tbh. they handled my wife's doordash depreciation so much better than taxact is handling mine.

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Raj Gupta

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I switched to FreeTaxUSA this year and it's SO much better for self-employment! Their depreciation section actually explains things clearly and gives you options when you no longer use assets for business. Plus it's cheaper too.

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Morita Montoya

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I ran into this exact same issue last year! The key thing to understand is that once you've claimed depreciation on a business asset, the IRS requires you to continue tracking it on your tax returns even in years when you don't use it for business. What worked for me in TaxAct: Go to the vehicle section and enter your car information exactly as you did in 2021, but put 0 for business miles (you can put your actual total personal miles). This will give you 0% business use. Then in the depreciation section, select the same depreciation method you used before - the software will automatically calculate $0 depreciation for 2023 since your business use is 0%. The important part is NOT to delete the vehicle entirely from your return. You need to show it exists but wasn't used for business. This maintains the proper depreciation trail for IRS records without affecting your 2021 claim or causing problems if you use the vehicle for business again in future years.

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Yara Elias

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This is really helpful! I'm actually dealing with a similar situation right now. Quick question - when you say "select the same depreciation method you used before," how do you remember what method you used in 2021? I don't have my old return handy and I'm not sure if I used straight-line or MACRS back then. Does TaxAct show you what you used previously, or do I need to dig up my old paperwork?

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Why is everyone making this so complicated? Just check "Married Filing Jointly" on both W-4s and be done with it. If you're worried about underwithholding, just put an extra $100 per paycheck in the additional withholding line on the higher income spouse's W-4. That's what my wife and I do (I make $150k, she makes $65k) and we always get a small refund.

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PixelPrincess

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This is terrible advice. Just putting some random amount like $100 per paycheck could result in massive overwithholding or underwithholding depending on your specific situation. The W-4 is designed to be precise if you fill it out correctly.

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It's not "terrible advice" - it's practical advice that works for many people. I've been doing taxes for 20 years and found that most withholding calculators are overly complicated for simple situations like this. For a couple with just W-2 income and standard deductions, adding a flat additional amount on the higher earner's withholding is a straightforward approach that works well. The key is adjusting that amount based on your results the previous year. If you got too big a refund, reduce it. If you owed too much, increase it. Not everyone needs a complicated tax simulator to get reasonable results.

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Natasha Volkova

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As someone who went through this exact situation last year, I'd recommend using the IRS Tax Withholding Estimator first before making any changes. My husband makes $140k and I make $82k, so very similar to your situation. What we learned is that the "married filing jointly" checkbox on both W-4s can actually cause overwithholding when both spouses work, because each employer's payroll system assumes it's withholding for your entire tax liability when it's really only responsible for a portion. The estimator told us to select "married filing jointly" on both forms but to add $75 per paycheck in additional withholding on my husband's W-4 (the higher earner) and $0 additional on mine. This ended up being perfect - we owed about $50 at tax time. The income gap itself isn't really the issue - it's more about making sure the total withholding from both jobs covers your combined tax liability correctly. Don't stress too much about it though - you can always adjust your W-4s mid-year if needed once you see how your first few paychecks look.

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Ethan Taylor

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This is really helpful advice! I'm curious though - when you say you owed about $50 at tax time, was that your goal or were you aiming to break even completely? I'm always torn between wanting to avoid owing anything vs not wanting to give the government an interest-free loan with a big refund. Also, did you find the IRS estimator easy to use? I've heard mixed things about how user-friendly it is.

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Taylor Chen

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Just wanted to add one more resource that might help - if you're a US citizen living abroad or have lived abroad, consider reaching out to your local US embassy or consulate. They often have tax attachรฉ services or can connect you with IRS representatives who specialize in expat tax issues, including FBAR compliance. I had a similar situation with accounts in multiple countries and the tax attachรฉ at the US embassy in London was incredibly helpful. They confirmed that using partial account numbers with proper documentation is standard practice and even provided me with a template for the explanation letter to include with my amended filing. The embassy route can be especially useful because these representatives deal with foreign banking complications regularly and understand the practical challenges of getting complete account information from overseas financial institutions. Plus, having guidance directly from an official IRS representative gives you extra confidence that you're handling everything correctly.

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Rajan Walker

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This is such valuable information about the embassy resources! I had no idea they offered tax attachรฉ services for situations like this. That template for the explanation letter sounds incredibly useful - much better than trying to figure out the right language on my own. It's reassuring to know that there are so many different approaches and resources available. Between checking old tax software files, reaching out to the embassy, and using the partial account number format with proper documentation, I feel like I have a solid plan now. The common theme from everyone's advice is really about showing good faith effort and keeping detailed records, which makes total sense from a compliance perspective. I'm going to start with checking my old files and cards tonight, then reach out to both the bank via formal written request and potentially the embassy if I need additional guidance. Thanks for adding this option - it's definitely something I'll keep in mind as I work through this process!

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Gavin King

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I've been following this thread closely since I'm dealing with a similar FBAR amendment situation. Just wanted to share that I found my old account numbers by checking the "account details" section in my email - turns out when I initially opened those foreign accounts, the bank sent welcome emails with full account information that I had completely forgotten about. Also, for anyone still struggling with this, I discovered that some banks will provide account numbers if you fill out a formal "account information request" form on their website, even when they won't give the same information over the phone. It's worth checking if your bank has this option in their customer service portal. The partial number approach with "XX" definitely seems to be the standard solution based on everyone's experiences here. The key really is documentation - I'm keeping a detailed log of every attempt I make to get complete information, including screenshots, email confirmations, and reference numbers from phone calls. Better to have too much documentation than not enough when it comes to FBAR compliance!

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Yuki Ito

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I'm a newcomer here but this thread has been absolutely incredible to read through! I had no idea how widespread this dealership issue was with EV tax credits. Reading everyone's success stories gives me so much hope for resolving similar situations. What really stands out to me is how the magic formula seems to be: use specific technical language ("Energy Credits Online Portal," "used clean vehicle credit"), escalate to the finance director (not just any finance person), mention the IRS waived the 3-day deadline, and come prepared with all documentation. The consistency across everyone's successful approaches is remarkable. Brandon, I hope you're still following this amazing discussion that grew from your original question! The fact that people are succeeding with purchases 8+ months old should give you total confidence that your July timeline is absolutely fine. The "too late" excuse has been thoroughly debunked by multiple success stories here. For anyone else dealing with uncooperative dealerships - you now have a complete playbook from people who've fought this exact battle and won. Don't give up on thousands of dollars you're legally entitled to! The IRS specifically made the process more flexible to help consumers in these situations.

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Brielle Johnson

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As someone brand new to this community and EV ownership, I'm amazed by how comprehensive this thread has become! Reading through everyone's experiences has been like getting a complete education on navigating dealership issues with tax credits. What gives me the most confidence is seeing the consistent pattern of success once people use the right approach - specific technical language about the ECO Portal, escalating to finance directors, and having documentation ready. It's clear that many dealerships genuinely don't understand the current requirements rather than being deliberately obstructive. Brandon, this discussion that started from your frustration has created such an invaluable resource for the entire community! The fact that people are resolving cases from 8+ months ago should give you complete confidence that your July purchase is absolutely still viable. Don't let that dealership discourage you with outdated "deadline" excuses. I'm bookmarking this entire thread for future reference - it's like having a step-by-step guide for anyone facing similar issues. Thank you to everyone who shared their strategies and success stories. This is exactly the kind of community support that makes navigating complex bureaucratic processes so much easier!

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Miguel Castro

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As a newcomer to this community, I'm absolutely amazed by this thread! I just bought a used EV last week and had no idea about the ECO Portal requirements until I stumbled across this discussion. Reading through everyone's experiences has been both educational and slightly terrifying - it sounds like dealership confusion about these requirements is incredibly common. What's really encouraging is seeing the clear pattern of success once people know how to approach this properly. The combination of using specific technical language ("Energy Credits Online Portal," "used clean vehicle credit"), asking for the finance director by name, and having all documentation ready seems to be the winning formula. Brandon, I hope you're still following this incredible thread that started from your question! Based on all the success stories here with purchases 8+ months old, your July timeline is definitely not an issue. The "too late" excuse has been completely debunked by multiple people's experiences. I'm going to proactively contact my dealership tomorrow to confirm they've handled my ECO Portal registration. Thanks to this thread, I now know exactly what to ask for and how to escalate if needed. This community is amazing - turning one person's frustration into a comprehensive guide that's helping so many others!

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Ava Williams

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Another simple trick - look at your 2020 tax return PDF file size. If it's bigger than usual, you probably itemized because Schedule A adds pages. My standard deduction returns are always like 10-15 pages but my itemized years are 20+ pages with all the extra forms. Just a quick way to check before digging into the actual numbers.

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Miguel Castro

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Oh that's actually really clever! I never thought about checking file size. Does this work even if you e-filed though? I don't think I printed out all the forms but maybe the PDF would still be different sizes?

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Ava Williams

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Yes, it works even if you e-filed! The PDF you get from your tax software after filing (usually called something like "2020_Tax_Return.pdf") will include all forms that were submitted with your return, even if you never printed them out. The file size difference comes from all the additional schedules and worksheets that get generated when you itemize. Besides Schedule A itself, there are often supporting documents for medical expenses, property taxes, mortgage interest, charitable contributions, etc. So the PDF generally ends up noticeably larger than years when you took the standard deduction.

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Zainab Ibrahim

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UGH im looking at my 2020 return right now and line 12 shows $24,800 but there's also something on line 8 that says "Schedule A" with a checkmark? Super confused!!! Why would it have schedule A but also the standard deduction amount??

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PixelWarrior

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That's unusual but I think I know what happened. The "Schedule A" checkmark on line 8 probably means you filled out Schedule A to compare your itemized deductions against the standard deduction. But since line 12 shows exactly $24,800 (the standard deduction amount for married filing jointly), you ultimately took the standard deduction because it was higher than your itemized amount would have been. TurboTax and other software often complete Schedule A as part of the process even if you end up taking the standard deduction, just to determine which gives you the better outcome.

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