Can't reach IRS? Claimyr connects you to a live IRS agent in minutes.
Claimyr is a pay-as-you-go service. We do not charge a recurring subscription.
Using Claimyr will:
- Connect you to a human agent at the IRS
- Skip the long phone menu
- Call the correct department
- Redial until on hold
- Forward a call to your phone with reduced hold time
- Give you free callbacks if the IRS drops your call
If I could give 10 stars I would
If I could give 10 stars I would If I could give 10 stars I would Such an amazing service so needed during the times when EDD almost never picks up Claimyr gets me on the phone with EDD every time without fail faster. A much needed service without Claimyr I would have never received the payment I needed to support me during my postpartum recovery. Thank you so much Claimyr!
Really made a difference
Really made a difference, save me time and energy from going to a local office for making the call.
Worth not wasting your time calling for hours.
Was a bit nervous or untrusting at first, but my calls went thru. First time the wait was a bit long but their customer chat line on their page was helpful and put me at ease that I would receive my call. Today my call dropped because of EDD and Claimyr heard my concern on the same chat and another call was made within the hour.
An incredibly helpful service
An incredibly helpful service! Got me connected to a CA EDD agent without major hassle (outside of EDD's agents dropping calls ā which Claimyr has free protection for). If you need to file a new claim and can't do it online, pay the $ to Claimyr to get the process started. Absolutely worth it!
Consistent,frustration free, quality Service.
Used this service a couple times now. Before I'd call 200 times in less than a weak frustrated as can be. But using claimyr with a couple hours of waiting i was on the line with an representative or on hold. Dropped a couple times but each reconnected not long after and was mission accomplished, thanks to Claimyr.
IT WORKS!! Not a scam!
I tried for weeks to get thru to EDD PFL program with no luck. I gave this a try thinking it may be a scam. OMG! It worked and They got thru within an hour and my claim is going to finally get paid!! I upgraded to the $60 call. Best $60 spent!
Ask the community...
- DO post questions about your issues.
- DO answer questions and support each other.
- DO post tips & tricks to help folks.
- DO NOT post call problems here - there is a support tab at the top for that :)
Join the conversation
Join the conversation
Noah Lee
Klaus, based on your numbers ($145k expected vs $118k actual Box 1), that $27k difference is likely almost entirely from pre-tax deductions. Here's what probably happened: If you're maxing out your 401(k) at $23,000 for 2024, that alone accounts for most of the difference. Add in health insurance premiums (could easily be $3,000-6,000 annually), HSA contributions if you have one (up to $4,300 for individual coverage), and any other pre-tax benefits, and you'll hit that $27k gap pretty quickly. Your calculation method is correct - Year 2 W-2 should show Year 2 base salary plus Year 1 bonus paid in Year 2. The "missing" money isn't actually missing - it's just that your W-2 Box 1 shows what's federally taxable after all pre-tax deductions, not your gross earnings. Check your final December paystub for Year 2. It should show year-to-date totals for all your pre-tax deductions. Add those up and subtract from your gross pay ($145k) - that should match your Box 1 exactly. This will give you the peace of mind that everything is correct for your financial planning.
LunarLegend
ā¢This breakdown is exactly what I needed! You're absolutely right - I am maxing out my 401(k) at $23,000, and my health insurance premiums are about $4,200 annually. That gets me to $27,200 right there, which perfectly explains the difference. I was so focused on making sure my bonus timing was right that I completely overlooked how my pre-tax deductions would affect the final Box 1 number. Thanks for walking through the math so clearly - now I can confidently use the $118,000 figure for my financial planning knowing it's correct.
Emma Wilson
Great question Klaus! This is actually a really common source of confusion. Your W-2 Box 1 shows your taxable wages after pre-tax deductions, not your gross income. The most likely culprits for that $27,000 difference are: - 401(k) contributions (2024 limit is $23,000 or $30,500 if 50+) - Health insurance premiums - HSA contributions (up to $4,300 individual/$8,550 family for 2024) - Dental/vision insurance premiums - Flexible spending account contributions To verify everything is correct, grab your last paystub from December 2024 - it should show year-to-date totals for all deductions. Add up all your pre-tax deductions and subtract that from your gross pay ($145,000). That number should match your W-2 Box 1 exactly. This is actually good news for your financial planning - those pre-tax deductions are saving you money on taxes! Just make sure to use the Box 1 amount ($118,000) rather than gross income when calculating your tax liability for planning purposes.
Tate Jensen
ā¢This is such a helpful breakdown! I'm new to this whole W-2 analysis thing and was getting overwhelmed by all the different factors that can affect Box 1. Your explanation about using the final December paystub to verify everything makes perfect sense - I never thought to cross-reference those year-to-date totals with my W-2. One quick question - when you mention using the Box 1 amount for tax planning purposes, does that mean I should also use that figure when calculating things like IRA contribution limits based on modified adjusted gross income? Or do I need to add some of those pre-tax deductions back in for those calculations?
Join the conversation
KaiEsmeralda
Dylan, you're absolutely right that you should qualify! Since you were never enrolled full-time by your school's definition (12+ credits), the IRS won't consider you a full-time student either. The key is that "full-time" status is determined by your educational institution's standards, not a universal number. Just a heads up though - double-check that you weren't claimed as a dependent on anyone else's tax return (like your parents'), as that would disqualify you regardless of your student status. Also make sure your $3,800 contribution was made by the tax filing deadline to count for that tax year. With your $32k AGI, you'll get a 10% credit rate, so you could be looking at up to $200 back (10% of $2,000 max eligible contribution). Don't forget Form 8880 like Paolo mentioned!
Mei Liu
ā¢This is such helpful information! I'm in a similar situation - I'm 23, took 8 credits last semester while working, and contributed to my Roth IRA. I had no idea about the dependency status requirement though. My parents didn't claim me as a dependent since I support myself, so it sounds like I might qualify too. Dylan, definitely make sure you check that dependency box on your tax software or Form 8880. It's easy to overlook but could make or break your eligibility for the credit even if you meet all the other requirements!
Nia Davis
Great question Dylan! I went through this exact same situation last year. The IRS uses your school's definition of full-time enrollment, and since your community college considers 12+ credits full-time, your 9 and 6 credit semesters would classify you as part-time for tax purposes. However, there's one more thing to verify - make sure you weren't enrolled as a full-time student for any part of 5 calendar months during the tax year. It sounds like you were consistently part-time, so you should be good there. With your $32K AGI and single filing status, you'd qualify for the 10% credit rate. On your $3,800 Roth IRA contribution, the maximum eligible amount is $2,000, so you could get up to a $200 credit (10% of $2,000). Just make sure you weren't claimed as a dependent by your parents and that your contributions were made by the tax deadline for that year. The Saver's Credit is definitely worth claiming - it's a dollar-for-dollar reduction of your tax liability, which is better than a deduction!
Join the conversation
Jacob Lewis
This is such a helpful thread! I'm also in the service industry (server at a mid-range restaurant) and have been making the same mistakes with tip reporting. Reading through all these responses, I realize I need to get my act together before this tax season becomes a disaster. One question I haven't seen addressed - what about tip-outs to support staff? I typically tip out about 15-20% of my total tips to bussers, food runners, and bartenders. Do I report my gross tips (before tip-outs) or net tips (after tip-outs) as income? I've been unclear on this and it makes a big difference in the numbers. Also, for those using apps to track tips - any specific recommendations? I've tried a couple but they seem overly complicated for what should be simple daily tracking. The phone notes method sounds good but I'm worried about accidentally deleting something important. Really appreciate everyone sharing their experiences here. It's clear I need to start doing quarterly payments too based on what others have said about getting hit with penalties.
Great questions! For tip-outs, you report your gross tips (what you received before tipping out others) as income, then you can deduct the tip-outs you made to support staff. This gets reported on Form 8919 or sometimes as an unreimbursed employee expense, depending on your situation. The key is documenting both what you received AND what you paid out. For tracking apps, I personally use "TipSee" - it's super simple, just lets you enter daily tip amounts and automatically calculates tax estimates. "Tips" is another good basic one. Both are way simpler than some of the overcomplicated options out there. They also back up to cloud storage so you won't lose your data. If you prefer the notes method but want backup, try using a notes app that syncs across devices (like Apple Notes or Google Keep). That way even if you lose your phone, your tip records are still accessible from other devices. And yes, definitely start making quarterly payments! With your tip amounts, you'll likely owe more than $1,000 in taxes which triggers the underpayment penalty requirements. Better to overpay quarterly and get a refund than get hit with penalties.
Dylan Cooper
Just wanted to share my experience as someone who went through the exact same confusion last year! I'm a bartender in San Diego and was totally lost about tip reporting until I got some professional help. A few key things I learned that might help: 1. **All tips are taxable income** - this was my biggest misconception. I thought only the tips that showed up on my paystub counted. 2. **Box 8 (allocated tips) is NOT where you report your actual tips** - this is just what your employer thinks you should have earned based on sales. You still need to report your actual tips elsewhere. 3. **Form 4137 is your friend** - this is specifically for reporting cash tips that weren't included on your W-2. It also calculates the additional FICA taxes you owe on those unreported tips. 4. **Keep records starting NOW** - even if you're mid-year, start tracking daily. I use a simple spreadsheet with date, cash tips, card tips, and tip-outs. The biggest game-changer for me was learning about quarterly estimated taxes. With your tip amounts ($950-1150/week), you're definitely going to owe more than $1,000 at year-end, which means you should be making quarterly payments to avoid penalties. I'd highly recommend consulting with a tax professional who understands service industry workers - it was worth every penny to get clarity on my specific situation. Good luck!
Aaliyah Reed
ā¢This is really helpful, thank you! I'm in a similar boat as the original poster and your point about quarterly estimated taxes is eye-opening. I had no idea I should be making payments throughout the year. Quick question - when you say "consult with a tax professional who understands service industry workers," how do you find someone like that? Do most CPAs handle this kind of situation or do you need someone who specializes specifically in restaurant/bar workers? I'm worried about paying for advice and then getting someone who doesn't really understand the complexities of tip reporting. Also, for the spreadsheet tracking - do you include things like slow nights where you might only make $20-30 in cash tips, or do you have a minimum threshold? I'm wondering about the level of detail that's actually necessary versus what might be overkill.
Amina Bah
ā¢@290722d1338a Great breakdown! For finding the right tax professional, I'd recommend looking for an Enrolled Agent (EA) or CPA who specifically mentions hospitality/restaurant industry experience on their website or in their marketing. Many tax pros in cities with big service industries (like LA, Vegas, NYC) develop this specialty because they see so many servers and bartenders. You can also ask other bartenders and servers in your area for referrals - word of mouth is huge in our industry! Some tax preparers even advertise specifically to service workers during tax season. For tracking, I record EVERYTHING, even $20 nights. The IRS expects consistency, and those smaller amounts add up over the year. Plus, if you ever get audited, showing you tracked even the slow nights demonstrates you're being thorough and honest. I just do a quick phone note at the end of each shift: "3/15 - Cash: $23, Cards: $87, Tipped out: $15" - takes 10 seconds but covers everything I need. One more tip - consider setting up a separate checking account just for quarterly tax payments. I auto-transfer a percentage of my tips there weekly, then when quarterly payments are due, the money is already set aside and I don't have to scramble to find it.
Join the conversation
The qualified disability trust election is made simply by claiming the $4,450 exemption on Line 20 of Form 1041 - there's no separate form or election statement required. You can start claiming this exemption at any time, even if previous returns didn't use it. If your previous trustee was only claiming the standard trust exemption ($100-$300), you can begin using the qualified disability trust exemption immediately on your next filing. However, I'd recommend reviewing the past few years' returns to see if amended returns might be beneficial. If the trust had taxable income in prior years and was paying unnecessary taxes due to the lower exemption, you might be able to file Form 1041X to claim refunds. The statute of limitations is generally three years, so you could potentially recover taxes from 2021-2023 if the trust qualified for the higher exemption during those years. Make sure you have documentation that the trust meets the qualified disability trust criteria before making the election. The main requirements are that your sister is disabled under Social Security standards, the trust is for her sole benefit, and no distributions can be made to anyone else during her lifetime. Most properly drafted special needs trusts automatically meet these requirements. Welcome to trusteeship - it's a big responsibility but this community is really helpful for navigating the complexities!
This is exactly the kind of practical guidance I needed! Thank you for explaining that the election is straightforward and can be started at any time. I'll definitely review the past returns to see if amended filings make sense - even a small refund would be meaningful for a trust with modest income. I'm relieved to hear that most properly drafted special needs trusts automatically meet the qualified disability trust criteria. Our trust was established by a disability attorney, so I'm confident it meets the requirements, but I'll double-check the language to be sure. The suggestion about reviewing prior returns is particularly helpful. Our previous trustee was very conservative and may have been overly cautious about claiming tax benefits. Since my sister clearly qualifies under Social Security disability standards and the trust is exclusively for her benefit, it sounds like we should have been using the higher exemption all along. One follow-up question - when you mention filing Form 1041X for potential refunds, is this something I can handle myself using tax software, or would this be a situation where professional help is advisable given the specialized nature of disability trusts?
Form 1041X amendments can definitely be handled yourself, especially if you're comfortable with tax software. TurboTax Business and other professional tax software packages include Form 1041X and will walk you through the process. Since you're essentially just correcting the exemption amount (from the standard trust exemption to the $4,450 qualified disability trust exemption), it's a relatively straightforward amendment. The key is having good documentation of why the amendment is valid - basically showing that the trust met qualified disability trust criteria during the years you're amending. Keep copies of your sister's disability determination, the trust document, and any correspondence about her benefits. That said, if the potential refunds are substantial or if there were other complexities in the prior returns, it might be worth having a professional review at least the first amendment to make sure you're handling it correctly. But for straightforward exemption corrections on otherwise simple returns, the software should handle it fine. Just make sure to file the amendments in chronological order (oldest year first) and allow plenty of time for processing - amended trust returns can take several months to process.
This thread has been incredibly helpful! I'm a new trustee for my nephew's qualified disability trust and had been making some of the same mistakes discussed here. One additional consideration I wanted to mention: if your trust invests in mutual funds or ETFs, be careful about the timing of any rebalancing or sales near year-end. We learned this the hard way when our trust received an unexpected capital gains distribution from a mutual fund in December, which pushed our income above the $4,450 exemption threshold and created an unexpected tax liability. For trusts with modest income like ours, even small capital gains can matter tax-wise. Now we try to do any portfolio adjustments earlier in the year so we can better estimate our annual income and plan accordingly. Also, regarding the ABLE account coordination mentioned in earlier comments - one thing our disability attorney emphasized is making sure the ABLE account and the trust have compatible investment strategies. Since we're using the trust to fund the ABLE account annually, we didn't want to create unnecessary overlap in our investment allocations across both accounts. Has anyone found good resources for investment management specifically tailored to special needs trusts? Most of the general trust investment advice doesn't account for the unique goals and constraints we face.
Great point about year-end mutual fund distributions! That's something I hadn't considered but makes total sense. We've been lucky so far with our conservative bond fund allocation, but as our trust grows we'll need to be more strategic about investment timing. Regarding investment management resources for special needs trusts, I've found that many larger investment firms now have specialized disability planning divisions. Fidelity and Vanguard both have teams that understand the unique constraints of special needs trusts - like the need to maintain modest income levels to preserve the qualified disability trust exemption while still growing assets for long-term care needs. The key seems to be finding advisors who understand that our primary goal isn't just maximizing returns, but balancing growth with benefit preservation and tax efficiency. Some advisors recommend a barbell approach - keeping enough in conservative investments to handle annual distributions and expenses, while putting longer-term assets in growth investments that generate minimal current income. I'd also suggest checking if your state's ABLE program offers investment advice or coordination services. Some states have financial planning resources specifically designed to help families coordinate between ABLE accounts and special needs trusts effectively.
Noland Curtis
Has anyone used the actual Publication 15-T to verify this? I downloaded it and tried to follow along but the tables are confusing af. There's like 10 different methods depending on if your W-4 is old or new and what payroll system your employer uses.
0 coins
Diez Ellis
ā¢I went down this rabbit hole last month! Page 25-29 of Pub 15-T has the tables for the old withholding system. If you're paid semi-monthly, your employer is probably using either the percentage method or the wage bracket method. For percentage method: They take your gross, subtract pre-tax deductions and a value for each allowance (around $4,350 annually per allowance, divided by pay periods), then calculate the tax using the tables on page 26. Wage bracket method is even more confusing because they use those giant look-up tables where you find your income range and allowances, then read the withholding amount directly.
0 coins
Laila Fury
I had the exact same issue with my semi-monthly paycheck calculations! What finally helped me was realizing that the IRS withholding system uses different formulas than just applying tax brackets directly to your income. The key thing you're missing is that withholding tables already account for the standard deduction and use annualized calculations that are then divided by your pay frequency. Your employer isn't just taking your pay period income and applying tax brackets - they're estimating what your annual tax liability will be and spreading it across all pay periods. Also, since you mentioned having an old W-4 with allowances, your employer is using a conversion method that doesn't work the way you calculated. Each allowance doesn't simply reduce your taxable income by a fixed dollar amount per pay period like it used to. I'd recommend either using the IRS Withholding Estimator online or filling out a new W-4 form. The new system is actually much more straightforward and gives you better control over your withholding amounts. You can even specify exact additional dollar amounts to be withheld if you want to fine-tune it.
0 coins