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If I could give 10 stars I would If I could give 10 stars I would Such an amazing service so needed during the times when EDD almost never picks up Claimyr gets me on the phone with EDD every time without fail faster. A much needed service without Claimyr I would have never received the payment I needed to support me during my postpartum recovery. Thank you so much Claimyr!


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Was a bit nervous or untrusting at first, but my calls went thru. First time the wait was a bit long but their customer chat line on their page was helpful and put me at ease that I would receive my call. Today my call dropped because of EDD and Claimyr heard my concern on the same chat and another call was made within the hour.


An incredibly helpful service

An incredibly helpful service! Got me connected to a CA EDD agent without major hassle (outside of EDD's agents dropping calls – which Claimyr has free protection for). If you need to file a new claim and can't do it online, pay the $ to Claimyr to get the process started. Absolutely worth it!


Consistent,frustration free, quality Service.

Used this service a couple times now. Before I'd call 200 times in less than a weak frustrated as can be. But using claimyr with a couple hours of waiting i was on the line with an representative or on hold. Dropped a couple times but each reconnected not long after and was mission accomplished, thanks to Claimyr.


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Ask the community...

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Just wanted to add a tip for anyone planning to buy I-bonds with their tax refund next year. There are actually TWO ways to do this: 1. Direct deposit to Treasury Direct (which requires the specific account formatting others mentioned) 2. Request paper I-bonds directly on your tax return using Form 8888 The second option is sometimes more reliable since you don't have to worry about account number formatting. The downside is you get actual paper bonds that you'd need to convert to electronic later if you want. Another thing to be aware of is that there's a $5,000 annual limit for I-bonds purchased with tax refunds, which is separate from the $10,000 annual limit for electronic I-bonds purchased directly through Treasury Direct. So you could potentially get $15,000 in I-bonds per year by using both methods!

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Gavin King

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Do paper I-bonds still exist? I thought Treasury phased those out years ago. And if I get paper bonds through my tax refund, how would I convert them to electronic later?

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Paper I-bonds do still exist, but ONLY through the tax refund process. It's the only way to get them since Treasury Direct otherwise went fully electronic. To convert paper bonds to electronic, you'd use the Treasury Direct "SmartExchange" feature after creating an account. You fill out a form with your paper bond information, mail the bonds to Treasury, and they add them to your electronic account. It takes a few weeks for processing, but then you can manage them online like any other Treasury Direct holdings. Some people actually prefer this method since the paper bonds can be held for safekeeping and don't require online account access until you're ready to redeem them.

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Nathan Kim

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Sorry to hear about your issue! One little hack that saved me when I had a similar problem: if you can't get through to the IRS by phone, try contacting your local Taxpayer Advocate Service office. They're an independent organization within the IRS designed to help taxpayers with problems. I had a refund issue last year (not I-bonds but similar redirect problem) and the advocate was able to look up exactly what happened and explain it. They can often resolve issues faster than waiting for general IRS customer service. Google "Taxpayer Advocate Service" + your location to find the nearest office. They typically require that you've already tried normal channels first (which you have), so make sure to mention your failed attempts to contact the IRS directly.

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The Taxpayer Advocate Service saved me too! But they're super backed up these days... took almost 2 months to get an appointment at my local office. Definitely worth trying though, just don't expect immediate help.

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Paolo Conti

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Just a quick tip - make sure you're looking at Form 8880 (Credit for Qualified Retirement Savings Contributions) when you file. This is where you'll calculate your Savers Credit. I missed this form my first time around and lost out on about $400 in tax credits!

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Thanks for the tip! Will I need any specific documentation from Fidelity if I make this IRA contribution now for last year? And should I reduce the contribution amount since we'll only get 10% back?

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Paolo Conti

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You don't need any special documentation from Fidelity for your tax return. When you make the contribution, just make sure you specify it's for the 2023 tax year. Fidelity will eventually send a Form 5498, but that usually comes after the tax filing deadline and isn't needed to claim the credit. As for reducing the contribution amount, I'd still recommend contributing the full amount to reach $2,000 total. Even though you're only getting 10% back as a direct credit ($200), remember that traditional IRA contributions also reduce your taxable income. So you're getting both the $200 credit AND the tax deduction on your contribution, which at your income level could save you another 22% or so in taxes on that money.

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Amina Sow

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Has anyone else had to amend their return to claim this credit after realizing they missed it? I'm in that boat right now and wondering if it's worth the hassle for the 10% credit.

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GalaxyGazer

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I amended last year for exactly this reason! It was a bit of paperwork but totally worth it in my case. Got back about $280 between the credit and the deduction on a $1,400 contribution. Just filed Form 1040-X with the corrected info and Form 8880 for the credit.

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Amina Sow

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Thanks for sharing your experience! $280 back on $1,400 is pretty good. I think I'm gonna go ahead with the amendment. I hate leaving money on the table, even if it's just a couple hundred bucks.

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This might sound obvious, but have you tried using a different browser or clearing your cache? Sometimes FreeTaxUSA has weird glitches that can be fixed that way. Also, they do have email support that's usually pretty responsive: [email protected] If you're getting the maintenance page though, it sounds like a server-side issue they're working on. In that case, filing an extension is probably your best bet. Just go to IRS.gov and search for Form 4868. You can e-file the extension through a number of free services.

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Ethan Scott

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Thanks for the suggestion! Yeah, I tried different browsers, clearing cache, even my phone - same maintenance message everywhere. I think their servers are just down. I ended up filing an extension through the IRS Free File site just to be safe. Thankfully I'm pretty sure I'm getting a refund so I shouldn't have any penalties. Just super frustrating to be so close to finishing!

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Good move filing the extension - that'll give you plenty of time. And yeah, if you're getting a refund, there's zero penalty for filing later with an extension. The penalties only apply when you owe money and haven't paid by the deadline. For what it's worth, FreeTaxUSA has been my go-to for years and this is the first time I've heard of them having major issues so close to the deadline. Their customer service is usually pretty good about making things right, so maybe reach out to them once things are back up and running.

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Laura Lopez

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Just a heads up - FreeTaxUSA is back online now! I was having the same issue earlier but I just managed to log in and finish my return. If you filed an extension you can still go back and finish your return there since all your info should be saved. They must have rushed to fix whatever issues they were having.

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Thanks for the update! I just checked and was able to log in too. Website seems to be running slower than usual but at least it's working again.

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Ethan Scott

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OMG thank you!!! Just logged in and all my information is still there! Finishing up right now before anything else can go wrong. What a stressful evening this has been!

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Edwards Hugo

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Former loan processor here. What the IRS is asking for is standard, but different lenders call it different things: - Mortgage Interest History Statement - Annual Loan Summary - Year-End Loan Statement - Mortgage Account History The confusion happens because customer service reps are often trained to provide the 1098 for "tax documents" and don't understand this specific request. Ask to speak with someone in the loan servicing department rather than general customer service. They deal with these requests more often. If your lender has an online portal, look for a section called "Statements" or "Tax Documents" and check for annual statements separate from the 1098 forms.

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Gianna Scott

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Would statements from my online banking work? I can see all my mortgage payments there with remaining principal balance after each payment.

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Edwards Hugo

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Online banking statements typically won't work because they usually only show the payment amount and maybe the remaining balance, but rarely show the interest rate or break down how much of each payment went to principal vs. interest. The IRS specifically wants to see the interest rate and the beginning/ending balances to verify that the interest deduction you claimed is accurate. If you're in a bind, you could try compiling your January and December statements from your lender (not your bank) which should show the beginning and ending balances for the year, along with any statement that clearly shows your interest rate. Include a cover letter explaining that this is the closest documentation your lender provides to what was requested. Sometimes the IRS will accept this alternative documentation, especially if you make a good-faith effort to provide what they need.

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Alfredo Lugo

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Tip for anyone facing this in the future: start keeping your own loan amortization schedule in Excel. I've been doing this for years after a similar audit headache. I record each payment and track beginning/ending balances, interest paid, etc.

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Wouldn't the IRS still want official documents from the lender though? I can't imagine they'd accept a spreadsheet I made myself as proof of anything.

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Here's something people don't mention enough - you need to check your state tax return too! Someone who stole your SSN to file federal taxes often does the same with state returns. I had this happen last year and while I was focused on the federal issue, the thieves also filed a state return in my name. Make sure you contact your state tax agency and let them know about the identity theft so they can flag your state tax account as well.

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That's such a good point. In my case, the scammer only filed federal but not state (probably because my state has extra verification steps). How did you find out about the fraudulent state return? Did you get a separate rejection?

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I actually didn't get a rejection for my state return initially because I filed my federal first and was dealing with that mess before I got around to filing state. I called my state tax agency as a precaution and they told me a return had already been filed with my SSN about two weeks earlier. The state tax agency ended up being much easier to work with than the IRS - they had me fill out their own identity theft affidavit form and submit copies of my ID. It still took about 8 weeks to resolve, but they were much more communicative throughout the process.

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Possible stupid question... but how do these scammers even profit from filing someone else's tax return? Like do they somehow get your refund sent to their bank account or something? I'm trying to understand the motivation behind tax identity theft.

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Ava Thompson

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Not a stupid question at all! The scammers use your SSN but change the direct deposit information to their own account (or often to prepaid debit cards that are harder to trace). They typically make up income and deduction information to generate a larger refund than you'd actually be entitled to. They're basically betting that they can get the fraudulent refund processed before you file your legitimate return. The IRS processes returns on a first-come-first-served basis without automatically matching W-2s and 1099s until later, which creates this vulnerability.

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