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Another approach - check your original bank statements from when you purchased the food truck. The transaction should be there, and most banks let you access statements going back several years. That's how I found the original cost of equipment when I lost my records.
That's a really good suggestion, thank you! I actually took out a loan for part of it, so I could probably find the loan documents too. I was just hoping to figure it out from the depreciation numbers since I had those handy. Would the calculation that Profile 12 provided make sense to you? The amounts don't quite match up with what I recorded, so I'm wondering if I used a different method than standard MACRS.
I think Profile 12's calculation is on the right track, but it seems like you might be using the 200% declining balance method rather than the standard MACRS percentages they provided. This would explain why your second year depreciation is higher than what their calculation suggests. Try this: if your original cost was around $39,500-$40,000, then a 5-year 200% declining balance method with half-year convention would give about $7,900 in year 1 and $15,100 in year 2. That's really close to your numbers of $7,564 and $15,128. For year 3, you'd be looking at about $7,600 depreciation. If these numbers sound right, I'd go with an original cost of $39,800, which would give you pretty much exactly what you reported for the first two years.
Have you tried just calling your food truck dealer? I had a similar issue with some restaurant equipment, and they had records of the sale even from 4 years ago. Worth a shot before doing all these complex calculations.
Great idea! I've been a dealer for food trucks for 10+ years and we keep ALL sales records. We get calls like this regularly and can provide copies of the original invoice. Most dealers should be able to do this for you.
I hadn't even thought of that! I bought it used from another food truck owner who was going out of business, so I don't have a dealer to call. But I just remembered I might have the original bill of sale somewhere in my home office. Going to dig through some files tonight. I did some calculations based on what everyone suggested here, and I'm pretty confident the original cost was around $39,800. That gives depreciation amounts that almost exactly match what I claimed in 2022 and 2023. This year's should be around $7,600. Thanks everyone for your help - I was really stuck on this!
I just wanna point out that Safe Harbor for Small Taxpayers is different from the $2,000 de minimis safe harbor that's also available. Make sure you know which one you're trying to use. The de minimis one is for small equipment purchases, while the Small Taxpayer Safe Harbor replaces both repair costs AND depreciation.
ONE MORE THING to consider: if you elect Safe Harbor for Small Taxpayers in FreeTaxUSA, you are COMMITTING to using it for that property (building + land) for ALL FUTURE YEARS unless you get IRS permission to change or you no longer qualify. This is important! Don't just elect it because it seems easier now if your situation might change.
Wait, really? I didn't know it was a permanent election! That changes things a lot for me. I was planning to do some major renovations next year that I'd want to depreciate normally. Is there any flexibility at all with this?
I should clarify - it's not permanently permanent. You're electing it annually, but you must apply it consistently to the same building+land. So you can stop using it if you no longer qualify (like if your gross receipts exceed $10,000 or your building's unadjusted basis exceeds the threshold). If you're planning major renovations next year, those would actually increase your unadjusted basis, which might make the Safe Harbor less valuable since your deduction is limited to 2% of that basis. But you could potentially still qualify and elect it again next year - it would just be calculated on the new higher basis.
As someone who's dealt with these forms for years, here's what's worked for me: For Form 3520, Part I is only if you created or transferred to the trust. Part II reports transfers to the trust. Part III is for distributions you receive. For 3520-A, you need the Foreign Grantor Trust Owner Statement (page 3). The beneficiary statement is only needed if there are other beneficiaries besides yourself. For the numerous trades, I create an Excel spreadsheet with columns: Date, Description, Proceeds (USD), Cost Basis (USD), Gain/Loss. Then I add a summary row at the bottom showing totals. Label it "Attachment 1: Trading Activity" and reference it on the forms. Also, make sure to check the "foreign trust" box on Schedule B of your 1040!
This is really helpful, thank you! One more question - for the 3520-A Foreign Grantor Trust Owner Statement, it asks for the trust's income. Is that just my net capital gains/losses for the year, or do I need to include something else?
The trust's income would include your net capital gains/losses plus any other income the trust generated, such as interest, dividends, or other investment income. So don't just limit it to your trading activity - make sure to include any interest or dividends that the TFSA earned during the year as well.
Has anyone else found that their tax software completely fails with these forms? I tried using three different popular programs and none of them properly handled form 3520-A for my foreign trust.
Sadly, your coworker's view is pretty common. I teach basic finance at a community college, and I do a whole lecture about this exact misconception. About half my students come in thinking tax refunds are free government money. The bigger problem is that this thinking leads to poor financial decisions. People who see refunds as "bonus money" tend to spend it frivolously rather than recognizing it's part of their annual income that could have been better used throughout the year. I use a simple exercise: I ask students if they'd loan me $100 every month with the promise I'll give them $1200 back at the end of the year. They all say no. Then I explain that's exactly what they're doing with the IRS when they overpay throughout the year. The lightbulbs usually start going on at that point!
Do you have any simple resources I could share with people who think this way? My dad is convinced the government "gives" him money every year and gets annoyed when I try to explain otherwise.
I recommend the IRS's own Tax Withholding Estimator on their website, which visually shows how withholding relates to your final tax bill. There's also a YouTube channel called "Two Cents" that has a great 5-minute video called "Tax Refunds Explained" that uses simple graphics to show how the money flows. For some people, seeing their own numbers makes the biggest difference. Have him look at his W-2 form, Box 2 (Federal income tax withheld) and compare that to his refund amount. If his refund is less than what's in Box 2, that clearly shows he's just getting his own money back. If it's more, that's when tax credits are coming into play.
Omg your coworker is not alone š My roommate legitimately thought the same thing until last year! She would always talk about how she was gonna "win big on her taxes" and I was like... that's not how any of this works! She kept insisting that because she "got back more than she paid in" it must be free money. What she didn't understand was that the withholding shown on her paystub wasn't her total income - it was just what was taken for taxes. She thought her entire paycheck was "what she paid in" so when she got a refund it seemed like bonus money. It took me sitting down with her actual paystubs and tax forms to show her the math. The look on her face when she finally understood was priceless. Now she's all about adjusting her W-4 to get more money throughout the year instead!
Wait I'm confused. Are people here saying I should be getting less money back at tax time? I look forward to my refund every year to pay off holiday debt. If I change my withholding doesn't that mean I might end up OWING money??
Zara Rashid
Has anyone had luck with wage and income transcripts directly from the IRS? I know they don't show state withholding info but I'm wondering if they're detailed enough to use for filing if you can't get the actual W2s?
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Zara Rashid
ā¢Thanks for the info about the retirement contributions - I hadn't thought about that! Did you have any issues with the IRS accepting your return when you used transcript information instead of the actual W2 details?
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Luca Romano
ā¢No problems with the IRS accepting the return at all. The wage and income transcript information comes directly from them, so it matches what they already have in their system. Just make sure if you're using tax software that you select the option to enter the information manually rather than importing a W2, since you won't have the actual form to scan or upload.
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Nia Jackson
If your using TurboTax from previous years, they save copies of all ur docs I'm pretty sure. I was able to download my old W2s from there when my laptop crashed last year. Worth a try if that's what u used before?
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Mateo Hernandez
ā¢This is only partially true. TurboTax saves the INFORMATION you entered, but not necessarily the actual documents themselves. So if you uploaded a W2 image last year, you might not be able to get that exact image back. But you can see all the numbers you entered, which is almost as good!
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