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Just a heads up for first time filers - make sure you check if you can be claimed as a dependent by your parents before filing independently. This is especially important if you're a student or just graduated. My daughter filed her taxes without checking with us first last year, and it created a huge headache because we had already claimed her as a dependent (we were helping with her tuition and housing). Both returns got flagged, and we had to file amended returns which delayed everyone's refunds by months. The IRS has specific tests to determine if someone can be claimed as a dependent - it's not just about whether you live at home or not.
What are the actual rules for being claimed as a dependent? I moved out halfway through last year (July 2024) but my parents paid for my health insurance all year. Can they still claim me even though I'm financially independent now?
For your situation, it depends on several factors. The main tests for a qualifying child dependent are relationship, age, residency, support, and whether you file a joint return. For the age test, if you're under 19, or under 24 and a full-time student for at least 5 months of the year, you could qualify. The residency test requires living with your parents for more than half the year, but temporary absences for education count as time lived with them. The most important factor is usually the support test - if you provided more than half of your own support (rent, food, clothing, medical, etc.), then your parents cannot claim you, regardless of health insurance.
Does anyone have opinions on Credit Karma Tax vs FreeTaxUSA? I've heard good things about both for free filing but not sure which is better for someone with just W-2 income and student loan interest.
I've used both and prefer FreeTaxUSA. Credit Karma (now called Cash App Taxes) is completely free for federal AND state, while FreeTaxUSA charges for state filing. But I found FreeTaxUSA's interface more intuitive and their explanations clearer. Also had better luck with their customer service when I had a question. If you only have W-2 and student loan interest, either will work fine honestly. Just pick one and go with it!
One option nobody's mentioned yet - you can pay by credit card if you're really in a bind. There's a processing fee (around 2%) but if you have a card with rewards or a 0% intro period, it might be worth it. Just make sure you can pay it off before any high interest kicks in.
Are there any downsides to paying taxes with a credit card? I've always been told to avoid it but never understood why.
The main downside is the processing fee - it's about 2% of your total payment. So on a $2700 tax bill, you'd pay around $54 extra just for using a card. The IRS doesn't charge this fee directly, but they use payment processors who do. The other potential issue is falling into credit card debt. If you put taxes on a card and can't pay it off fairly quickly, you could end up paying way more in credit card interest than you would with an IRS payment plan (which typically has a lower interest rate). However, if you have a card with a 0% intro period and you're confident you can pay it off during that time, it can be a reasonable strategy.
Has anyone tried filing Form 9465 (Installment Agreement Request) with their return? I heard you can mail it in with your tax forms and avoid the whole online account setup hassle.
The way I learned tax basics was by volunteering with VITA (Volunteer Income Tax Assistance). They train you to prepare taxes for low-income people. The training is free and really comprehensive. You start with basic returns but can get certified for more advanced topics. Plus you're helping people while learning!
Do you need any background to volunteer? I'm interested but literally know nothing about taxes beyond my simple W2 job.
No background needed at all! They start from scratch with the training. I knew basically nothing when I started - just filled out 1040EZ forms for my own simple returns. They provide all the training materials and have experienced volunteers who mentor you. They have different certification levels, so you can start with the basics and work your way up as you learn more. Even the basic certification teaches you WAY more than most people know about taxes. And when you encounter something you don't understand, there's always a more experienced volunteer to help explain it.
Has anyone tried those tax master courses you see advertised online? Keep getting ads for one that promises to teach "hidden deductions" and stuff but seems kinda scammy.
Just wanted to add my experience with Series EE bonds and Form 8815. I found out that if the bond is in YOUR name but purchased by someone else (like a parent or grandparent), different rules apply compared to when it's in both names with "OR" between them. In my case, my grandma bought bonds in my name only, and I was able to use Form 8815 to exclude the interest when I cashed them for college, even though I was under 24 when they were issued. The key was that they were solely in my name, not jointly with an "OR" designation.
That's interesting! So if the bonds had only been in my name without the "OR my mom" part, I could have qualified for the exclusion myself? Do you happen to know if there's any way to change the registration on existing bonds to make them solely in my name?
That's not quite right - I think I confused things. Even if the bonds are solely in your name, you still need to have been 24 or older when they were issued to qualify for the Form 8815 exclusion yourself. What I meant was that my grandmother had them in her name only (she was over 24), then used them for my education expenses. As for changing registration, you can reissue savings bonds in some circumstances, but changing ownership to qualify for tax benefits would likely be considered tax avoidance by the IRS. The registration needs to reflect the original intent of purchase. You're better off having your mom claim the exclusion if she paid for your education, as the other commenters suggested.
One important detail nobody's mentioned yet - the Form 8815 exclusion has income limits! Even if you qualify based on the ownership and age requirements, if your modified adjusted gross income is above certain thresholds, the exclusion starts phasing out or might be eliminated completely. For 2025 taxes, the phase-out begins around $93,750 for singles and $140,900 for married filing jointly. Just something to keep in mind before you spend tons of time figuring out the other requirements.
Do those income limits apply to the person who cashed the bonds or the person claiming the exclusion? Like if the mom is claiming the exclusion but the student cashed the bonds, whose income matters?
The income limits apply to the person claiming the exclusion on their tax return. So if your mom is claiming the exclusion (because she meets the age requirement and paid for your education), then it's her income that matters for the phase-out limits. In this situation, it doesn't matter who physically cashed the bonds. What matters is who's claiming the tax benefit. The IRS looks at the modified adjusted gross income on the tax return where Form 8815 is being filed.
Derek Olson
Has anyone tried FreeTaxUSA? I switched from TurboTax last year and it was WAY cheaper. Their deluxe version is only like $7 total and includes priority support. They don't include audit defense in the base price either, but their add-on is only $7.99 extra, not $20. The interface isn't as pretty as TurboTax but it gets the job done.
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Danielle Mays
ā¢I've been using FreeTaxUSA for 3 years now. No complaints and saved a ton of money. Do they still let you import your previous TurboTax returns? That was the feature that convinced me to switch initially since I didn't have to re-enter everything.
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Derek Olson
ā¢Yes, they still allow you to import previous returns including ones from TurboTax. That's what made switching so easy. You just upload your PDF from last year and it pulls most of the information automatically. You still have to review everything of course, but it saves a ton of time compared to starting from scratch. The interface definitely isn't as polished as TurboTax but all the same features are there, just organized a bit differently. Took me maybe an extra 15 minutes to get used to it, but considering I saved about $50 compared to what TurboTax wanted to charge me, it was totally worth it.
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Roger Romero
This is why I just pay my accountant $250 to do my taxes. No hidden fees, no upsells, no stress about audit risk. She even gives me tax planning advice throughout the year. After using TurboTax for years and watching the price creep up with all these extra charges, I finally made the switch to a professional and haven't looked back.
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Anna Kerber
ā¢$250 seems really reasonable for full service. Does your accountant e-file for both federal and state? And do they handle more complex situations like self-employment or investment income?
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