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Another approach is to double-check your capital loss work with multiple methods. I always calculate my carryover losses in three ways: 1. Using the IRS worksheet 2. Doing a simple calculation (total loss minus $3,000) 3. Using tax software to verify If all three methods give you the same $5,021 carryover amount, you're probably doing it right. Just remember that short-term and long-term losses are handled differently, which is why the worksheet seems more complicated than just subtracting $3,000 from your total loss.

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I tried the multiple methods approach and got different answers each time, which is making me even more confused. Does the worksheet split the $3,000 deduction between short-term and long-term losses in a specific way? My losses were all from stock sales if that makes a difference.

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The worksheet does handle short-term and long-term losses differently, and that's likely why you're getting different results. For capital losses, there's a specific order of operations the IRS requires. First, short-term losses offset short-term gains. Then, long-term losses offset long-term gains. After that, if you still have net losses in either category, those net losses can offset gains in the other category. Only after all that, if you still have net losses overall, can you deduct up to $3,000 against ordinary income. The worksheet is designed to walk you through this process step by step to ensure the correct ordering. For stock sales, whether they're considered short-term or long-term depends on how long you held them before selling (less or more than a year).

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Aisha Khan

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Quick tip from someone who makes this mistake every year: make sure you're not confusing lines on Form 8949 with Schedule D lines! The numbering is different and I always mix them up.

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Ethan Taylor

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Omg yes this! I was pulling my hair out last year because I was looking at the wrong form entirely when trying to do my capital loss carryover. Make sure you're using the numbers from Schedule D (the summary form) not Form 8949 (where you list all your individual transactions).

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Ethan Scott

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One thing to consider with itemizing is state taxes too. Even if the federal standard deduction makes more sense, some states have much lower standard deduction amounts, so you might itemize on your state return while taking the standard deduction federally. But you mentioned Florida - there's no state income tax there, so that's not a consideration for you. That's actually another reason fewer Floridians itemize compared to high-tax states like California or New York.

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That's a good point! I hadn't even thought about the state tax angle. So I guess that's one benefit of living in Florida for tax purposes - not having to worry about an additional state tax return. Do most tax software programs automatically figure out whether you should itemize or take the standard deduction?

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Ethan Scott

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Most decent tax software will compare your potential itemized deductions against the standard deduction and recommend whichever gives you the better outcome. They'll run the calculations both ways and show you the difference. The better programs will also alert you if you're close to the threshold and might suggest ways to maximize deductions. Just be careful with the free versions of tax software - they sometimes don't include Schedule A (itemized deductions) and try to upsell you when you need it.

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Lola Perez

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Just my two cents - remember that taking the standard deduction vs itemizing isn't a permanent choice. You can switch back and forth each year depending on what makes sense. Some years we itemize, others we take standard. One strategy my accountant suggested was "bunching" deductions. For example, if we're close to the threshold, we might make two years worth of charitable contributions in a single tax year to push us over the line for itemizing. Then the next year we make minimal donations and take the standard deduction. Over two years, we get more total deductions this way.

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This bunching strategy is smart! I've done something similar with medical expenses. Had a bunch of elective procedures done in one year to cross that 7.5% AGI threshold. Got LASIK, dental work, and a couple other things I'd been putting off. Saved a decent amount overall.

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Levi Parker

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Another possibility no one's mentioned - check if you opted to purchase audit protection or some other add-on service when you filed your taxes. A lot of tax prep software offers "audit defense" or "audit protection" for around $40-70, and some have more comprehensive packages in the $200-400 range that get automatically added to your filing fees and deducted from your refund. Sometimes these get added during the filing process and people don't realize they've opted in. Worth checking your tax prep confirmation email or logging back into the software you used to verify all the fees.

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This is actually a great point that hadn't occurred to me! I just checked and you're absolutely right - I apparently signed up for their "Complete Protection Bundle" for $425 which got deducted from my federal refund. The description shows it includes audit defense, tax expert assistance, and identity protection. I honestly have zero recollection of agreeing to this! Must have clicked through too quickly during the filing process. That plus the standard $75 processing fee accounts for almost exactly the missing amount. Mystery solved! Thank you so much for suggesting this - I would have continued freaking out while waiting for some explanation from the IRS that was never going to come. Lesson learned to pay more attention to those "recommended" add-ons during the filing process.

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Libby Hassan

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Happened to my cousin too! Turns out when he used TurboTax he got that "Audit Defense" thing without realizing it. Check your confirmation email from whatever tax software you used. Should show all fees and if they were taken from your refund.

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The tax prep companies are so sneaky with this stuff. They make those screens with the add-on services look like you NEED to select something, when really "none" is an option they hide or make look risky. I almost got charged $200 for their "MAX" bundle until I noticed and unchecked it.

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Will Corporate Liquidation of S-Corp assets under $2,500 trigger capital gains via safe harbor rule?

I'm currently running a landscaping business as an S Corporation (not an LLC with S Corp status), and my accountant recently suggested I switch to an LLC with an S Corp election. According to her, there are fewer requirements with an LLC - no need for annual meeting minutes and other formalities that my S Corp requires. My accountant explained that making this switch would effectively dissolve my corporation in the IRS's eyes, requiring us to determine the fair market value (FMV) of all my business assets to see if I'd need to recognize any capital gains. She mentioned that since none of my individual business assets cost more than $2,500 when purchased, they're all treated as expenses under some safe harbor rule, not capital assets. Here's what's confusing me - I have several pieces of equipment like a commercial-grade lawn mower I bought for $750 that's now worth around $1,000 in the current market. Would I need to recognize that $250 difference as a capital gain when transferring it to my personal name during this corporate liquidation? Or is my accountant right that since the mower cost less than $2,500, it's considered an "expense" rather than an asset, meaning I can transfer it without recognizing any gains? I'm trying to understand if this $2,500 safe harbor rule applies to the liquidation process or if I'm misunderstanding something fundamental here. Any insights would be appreciated!

Just to add my two cents as someone who's been through this: even though you expensed these items under the de minimis safe harbor, they're still considered property distributions in a liquidation. BUT not all hope is lost! Look into Section 331 liquidations - as an S-Corp shareholder, you'll receive the property at FMV, which becomes your new basis in the property. Your gain/loss is the difference between that FMV and your stock basis. So if your overall S-Corp stock basis is high enough, you might not have much (or any) gain to recognize personally, even though the S-Corp itself recognizes gain that passes through to you.

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Can you explain the stock basis part again? I thought the issue was the difference between original purchase price of the asset and current FMV? How does stock basis factor in?

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So there are actually two separate tax events happening in a liquidation: First, the corporation is treated as selling its assets to you at FMV. Since the expensed items have $0 basis to the corporation, the entire FMV is gain that flows through to you as the S-Corp shareholder. Second, you're surrendering your stock in exchange for these assets. You recognize gain/loss based on the difference between the FMV of assets received and your stock basis. Your stock basis includes your original investment plus all income that's flowed through to you minus distributions over the years. If your stock basis is high enough (from retained earnings for example), it can offset the asset distribution value, potentially resulting in no additional gain at the shareholder level.

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Has anyone actually liquidated an S-Corp where all assets were under the $2,500 safe harbor amount? I'm wondering if there's a simplified reporting method or if I really need to track down current values for literally every business expense I've ever had - staplers, desk chairs, the cheap printer, etc.?

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Lucas Bey

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I did this last year. My accountant had me focus only on items that still had meaningful value and could be sold on the secondary market. We didn't bother with office supplies, furniture under $200, etc. We documented everything with photos and current marketplace listings for comparable items. For really small stuff, we did group some items together as "office equipment" with a reasonable bulk value. The IRS isn't going to audit you over a $30 stapler, but they might care about that $2,000 computer or specialized equipment.

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Yuki Ito

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The penalties for not filing Form 3520 when required are BRUTAL! Either $10,000 or 35% of the gross value of the property, whichever is greater. Don't mess around with this one. My sister missed filing for a property gift from our grandfather in Colombia worth about $200k and got hit with a $70k penalty. She's been fighting it for years claiming reasonable cause, but the IRS has been extremely strict about this form.

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Carmen Lopez

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Omg that's terrifying! Did she try getting help from the Taxpayer Advocate Service? I've heard they can sometimes intervene in these penalty situations especially if there was genuine confusion about the requirements.

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Yuki Ito

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She did contact the Taxpayer Advocate Service, and they were helpful in getting the IRS to actually review her reasonable cause argument. The process is still ongoing, but they've at least gotten the collection activities paused while they review her case. The TAS representative explained that the IRS considers several factors for reasonable cause: whether she tried to learn about filing requirements, if there was a history of compliance with other tax obligations, and if this was her first time dealing with international tax issues. Having documentation of her efforts to understand the requirements has been crucial to her case.

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Andre Dupont

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Just to add another perspective - make sure you also consider whether there's any INCOME generated by this property. If your foreign real estate produces rental income, you'll have additional reporting requirements beyond just Form 3520. I inherited a beach condo in Mexico and had to file: 1. Form 3520 for the initial gift 2. Schedule E for the rental income 3. Form 8938 because my total foreign assets exceeded the threshold 4. Form 5471 because we set up a Mexican corporation to manage the property The whole international tax situation gets complicated FAST.

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Diego Vargas

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Thank you for bringing this up. The property isn't currently being rented out, but I might want to do that in the future. Is there a good resource you found that explains all these different forms? I feel like I'm discovering new requirements every day.

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Andre Dupont

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The IRS has a decent publication called "U.S. Citizens and Resident Aliens Abroad" (Publication 54) that covers many of these requirements. There's also a specific section on their website about international taxpayers that lists the various forms. I found the most comprehensive help came from a tax attorney who specializes in international taxation. It was expensive, but worth it for the initial setup year. Once I understood all the requirements, I was able to handle most of it myself in subsequent years using tax software that supports international situations. Just be aware that not all tax software handles these specialized international forms well - you might need to use one of the more comprehensive packages.

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