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Something else to consider - are you sure you're using the correct mileage rate? The IRS increased it mid-year in 2022, and it went up again for 2023. Make sure you're using the right one for your calculations. Also, don't forget that you can choose between taking the standard mileage deduction OR deducting actual expenses (gas, maintenance, insurance, depreciation, etc.). You should calculate both ways to see which gives you the better deduction. Just remember once you choose actual expenses for a vehicle, you can't switch to standard mileage later for that vehicle.
Carmen Ruiz
ā¢I'm using the 65.5 cents per mile rate for 2023, which I think is current. As for the standard vs. actual expenses, I was under the impression that for the first year I use the vehicle for business, I can choose either method, and then in subsequent years I'm locked in if I chose actual expenses first. Is that right?
You've got the current rate correct at 65.5 cents for 2023. And yes, you've got the rule right too - you can choose either method the first year you use the vehicle for business. If you choose standard mileage that first year, you can switch back and forth in future years. But if you choose actual expenses the first year, you're locked into that method for the life of that vehicle in your business. For a new business with lower income but high mileage, the standard mileage rate is often the better choice. It's also much simpler for record-keeping. Just make sure your mileage log is detailed and consistent!
Have you considered adjusting your business model to reduce driving? When I started my house cleaning business, I had similar issues - tons of miles but not much income. I started focusing on getting multiple clients in the same neighborhoods/areas and scheduling them on the same days. Cut my mileage by almost 40% while increasing my income. For lawn care, maybe you could offer discounts to neighbors of existing clients? Or charge a bit more for outlying areas to offset the driving costs?
Dylan Wright
ā¢This is great advice. I work in landscaping and we use zone pricing - we charge more for areas farther from our base. We also give "neighbor discounts" if we can service multiple properties in one area. It's been super effective at both bringing in more clients and reducing drive time.
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Yara Haddad
13 One thing to consider with Section 179 vehicles - make sure you're genuinely using it primarily for business. I had a client who got audited and lost most of their deduction because they couldn't substantiate their claimed 80% business use. Keep detailed mileage logs showing business vs personal trips. The IRS looks very closely at vehicle deductions, especially for expensive SUVs.
Yara Haddad
ā¢7 What's the best way to track mileage? Is there an app you recommend or is the old-fashioned paper log still better?
Yara Haddad
ā¢13 I recommend a digital solution over paper logs. Apps like MileIQ, Everlance, or TripLog automatically track your trips using GPS and let you classify them as business or personal with a simple swipe. The most important thing is consistency. The IRS wants to see regular tracking, not estimates or reconstructed logs created after the fact. Even with an app, take a moment each day or week to classify your trips while they're fresh in your mind. Also document the business purpose for trips - just having the mileage isn't enough if you get audited.
Yara Haddad
3 Does anyone know if leasing might be better than buying for Section 179 purposes? I've heard mixed things about whether the full lease payment is deductible vs. complicated depreciation schedules.
Yara Haddad
ā¢15 Leasing can be simpler for taxes since you generally deduct the actual lease payments as a business expense based on your business use percentage. No Section 179 or depreciation calculations to worry about. But leasing usually costs more over time than buying. If you buy using Section 179, you get a bigger deduction upfront, which sounds like what you're looking for to reduce this year's tax bill. The trade-off is smaller deductions in future years.
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Make sure you're not confusing 1099-NECs with 1099-MISCs. They split the forms a few years back and now you need to use the 1099-NEC ("Non-Employee Compensation") for freelancers. The MISC form is for other types of payments. I made that mistake my first year with contractors and had to resubmit everything.
Thanks for pointing that out! I didn't know they were different forms now. Is there a penalty if you use the wrong form? Also, do you know if there's a minimum payment threshold before I need to file the 1099-NEC?
Yes, using the wrong form can cause issues and potentially delay your contractors from filing their taxes correctly. The IRS might flag the inconsistency which could trigger correspondence or even an audit in some cases. The threshold for filing a 1099-NEC is $600 in payments to a US contractor during the tax year. If you paid someone less than that, you don't need to file a 1099 for them, though you can still deduct the expense on your Schedule C.
Zane Gray
Don't forget about state filing requirements! Even if you get the federal 1099-NECs sorted out, many states require you to file copies with them too. In Georgia, you'll need to submit copies of any 1099s you file to the Department of Revenue. The deadline usually matches the federal one.
Is this true for every state? I'm in Texas and I've never had to file 1099s with the state.
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When you do a conversion from traditional to Roth, you're taxed on any untaxed contributions and earnings. If you made a NON-deductible contribution (meaning you already paid tax on it) to your traditional IRA and then converted it, you should only be taxed on any earnings that happened between contribution and conversion. Since you converted just a few days after contributing, there were probably minimal earnings, so most of that conversion should be tax-free. As others have said, Form 8606 is key here - specifically parts I and II.
Josef Tearle
ā¢If there were literally no earnings between the contribution and conversion (like if the market was down those few days), would the taxable amount be zero? And does the 1099-R differentiate this or do you have to calculate it yourself?
If there were no earnings (or even if there was a loss), the taxable amount would indeed be zero. The 1099-R unfortunately doesn't differentiate this for you - it typically shows the full distribution amount in Box 1 and often shows the full amount as taxable in Box 2a as well, even when it's not. You have to calculate the non-taxable portion yourself using Form 8606. This is why it's so important to file this form - it's your documentation that establishes which portion of the conversion was after-tax money that shouldn't be taxed again.
Make sure you're entering everything in the right order in your tax software! I had this exact problem last year and realized I was entering my Roth conversion before establishing that I had made a non-deductible contribution. Try this sequence: 1) Enter the non-deductible Traditional IRA contribution first 2) Tell the software it was non-deductible 3) Then enter the 1099-R for the conversion In TurboTax, there's actually a specific section for IRA conversions that's separate from regular distributions. If you enter it as a regular distribution, it thinks the whole thing is taxable!
Marcus Marsh
ā¢Thanks for the sequence tips! I think that's exactly what I did wrong - I just entered the 1099-R directly without establishing the non-deductible contribution first. I'm using TaxAct, not TurboTax, but I bet the principle is the same. I'll try re-doing it in that order and see if it fixes the calculation. Appreciate everyone's help on this!
Skylar Neal
If you decide to use tax software instead of a CPA, make sure you compare a few different options. I found TurboTax charges extra for investment forms, while FreeTaxUSA handled our investments and my wife's scholarship with their basic version. Saved us like $70 compared to what TurboTax wanted to charge.
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PrinceJoe
ā¢Thanks for the tip about FreeTaxUSA! Did it handle the scholarship question well? That's my biggest concern - making sure we properly categorize what's taxable vs. non-taxable.
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Skylar Neal
ā¢FreeTaxUSA handled the scholarship situation really well. It specifically asks whether scholarship money was used for qualified expenses (tuition, books, required fees) versus non-qualified expenses (room and board, living expenses). It also provided clear explanations about which portions of scholarships are taxable and which aren't, something TurboTax didn't explain as clearly in my experience. The program walks you through it step by step and even has a help section specifically addressing graduate student scholarships and fellowships.
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Vincent Bimbach
I'm a tax preparer (not CPA) and honestly for your situation, good tax software should be fine. The only reason I'd suggest a pro is if either of you has self-employment income, rental property, or complicated investments beyond normal stocks/ETFs. Marriage doesn't change the tax treatment of investments or scholarships, it just combines them on one return.
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Kelsey Chin
ā¢What about tax credits that weren't available before? I heard the income thresholds change when filing jointly and you might qualify for different credits?
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