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Former IRS employee here - people fear audits because they don't understand them. Most "audits" are actually automated matching notices, not full examinations. When your W-2 or 1099 doesn't match what you reported, you get a letter - that's not even a real audit. For your crypto situation, the risk is low because you're claiming LESS loss than entitled to. The IRS is primarily concerned with unreported income, not overcompliance. That said, conceptually you should report transactions accurately rather than bundling them. The fear comes from horror stories, usually involving people who actively evaded taxes or businesses with serious compliance issues. For average folks with honest mistakes, audits are usually resolved through correspondence.
Thanks for the insider perspective! So would you recommend I just go with my simplified approach for this year since I'm claiming less of a loss than I'm entitled to? Or should I spend the extra money to have everything properly documented transaction by transaction?
If you're claiming less of a loss than you're entitled to, from a practical risk perspective, you're unlikely to face issues. However, from a compliance standpoint, you should report transactions accurately. My recommendation would be to consider using specialized crypto tax software that can handle the volume of transactions correctly rather than manually simplifying. It would give you proper documentation if questions ever arise, and you'd get your full allowable loss. The peace of mind is often worth the investment, especially if you continue crypto trading in future years.
One thing nobody's mentioned - audits are stressful because of the UNKNOWN. Even if you've done nothing wrong, there's the lingering anxiety of "what if they find something I missed?" I got audited in 2023 over a home office deduction and even though everything was legitimate, I was anxious for the entire 3 months the process took.
Don't forget about state taxes too! Some states are really aggressive about claiming you as a resident even after you've moved abroad. Especially California, New York, Virginia, and South Carolina. If you maintained any connections to your home state (driver's license, voter registration, bank accounts), they might consider you still a resident for tax purposes.
This is a good point I hadn't considered! My last US address was in Florida before moving to Germany. I still have my Florida driver's license though it's expired now. Would I still need to worry about state tax issues even though Florida doesn't have state income tax?
You're in a good position having your last residence in Florida since they don't have state income tax. States without income tax (like Florida, Texas, Nevada, etc.) don't generally pursue former residents for tax purposes. The bigger concern is for people from high-tax states like California or New York, where state tax authorities sometimes argue that you never truly "left" if you maintain certain connections. In your case with Florida, as long as you're filing your federal returns properly, you shouldn't have to worry about state tax complications.
An important note that hasn't been mentioned: if you have any non-US mutual funds or ETFs in Germany, be VERY careful as these are considered PFICs (Passive Foreign Investment Companies) by the IRS and have terrible tax treatment and complex reporting requirements.
This is so true! I got absolutely destroyed on taxes because I had UK investment funds that were classified as PFICs. The forms are ridiculously complicated (Form 8621) and the taxation is punitive compared to US-based investments. I ended up selling all my foreign funds and only investing through US brokerages now.
If you decide to use tax software instead of a CPA, make sure you compare a few different options. I found TurboTax charges extra for investment forms, while FreeTaxUSA handled our investments and my wife's scholarship with their basic version. Saved us like $70 compared to what TurboTax wanted to charge.
Thanks for the tip about FreeTaxUSA! Did it handle the scholarship question well? That's my biggest concern - making sure we properly categorize what's taxable vs. non-taxable.
FreeTaxUSA handled the scholarship situation really well. It specifically asks whether scholarship money was used for qualified expenses (tuition, books, required fees) versus non-qualified expenses (room and board, living expenses). It also provided clear explanations about which portions of scholarships are taxable and which aren't, something TurboTax didn't explain as clearly in my experience. The program walks you through it step by step and even has a help section specifically addressing graduate student scholarships and fellowships.
I'm a tax preparer (not CPA) and honestly for your situation, good tax software should be fine. The only reason I'd suggest a pro is if either of you has self-employment income, rental property, or complicated investments beyond normal stocks/ETFs. Marriage doesn't change the tax treatment of investments or scholarships, it just combines them on one return.
What about tax credits that weren't available before? I heard the income thresholds change when filing jointly and you might qualify for different credits?
Something else to consider - are you sure you're using the correct mileage rate? The IRS increased it mid-year in 2022, and it went up again for 2023. Make sure you're using the right one for your calculations. Also, don't forget that you can choose between taking the standard mileage deduction OR deducting actual expenses (gas, maintenance, insurance, depreciation, etc.). You should calculate both ways to see which gives you the better deduction. Just remember once you choose actual expenses for a vehicle, you can't switch to standard mileage later for that vehicle.
I'm using the 65.5 cents per mile rate for 2023, which I think is current. As for the standard vs. actual expenses, I was under the impression that for the first year I use the vehicle for business, I can choose either method, and then in subsequent years I'm locked in if I chose actual expenses first. Is that right?
You've got the current rate correct at 65.5 cents for 2023. And yes, you've got the rule right too - you can choose either method the first year you use the vehicle for business. If you choose standard mileage that first year, you can switch back and forth in future years. But if you choose actual expenses the first year, you're locked into that method for the life of that vehicle in your business. For a new business with lower income but high mileage, the standard mileage rate is often the better choice. It's also much simpler for record-keeping. Just make sure your mileage log is detailed and consistent!
Have you considered adjusting your business model to reduce driving? When I started my house cleaning business, I had similar issues - tons of miles but not much income. I started focusing on getting multiple clients in the same neighborhoods/areas and scheduling them on the same days. Cut my mileage by almost 40% while increasing my income. For lawn care, maybe you could offer discounts to neighbors of existing clients? Or charge a bit more for outlying areas to offset the driving costs?
This is great advice. I work in landscaping and we use zone pricing - we charge more for areas farther from our base. We also give "neighbor discounts" if we can service multiple properties in one area. It's been super effective at both bringing in more clients and reducing drive time.
Malik Johnson
This is actually one of the best tax benefits for couples where one spouse is a real estate professional! To answer your original question simply: Yes, depreciation can absolutely create a loss even if your rental income just covers expenses. For example, if you have: Rental income: $24,000/year Expenses (mortgage interest, taxes, HOA, repairs): $23,500/year Income before depreciation: $500 Annual depreciation (building value รท 27.5): $9,000 Your rental activity would show a $8,500 loss that you can use to offset your W2 income. Without the real estate professional exception, this would be limited by passive activity rules for most people. Make sure you properly document your spouse's time in real estate activities though - that's where most people get tripped up in audits!
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Isabella Ferreira
โขDo you know if property management time counts toward the 750 hours? I spend about 10 hours a week managing our rentals, but I'm not sure if that's enough to qualify.
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Malik Johnson
โขYes, property management time absolutely counts toward the 750 hours requirement, so your 10 hours weekly would give you about 520 hours annually. However, that alone wouldn't reach the 750-hour threshold. The bigger issue is that you also need to spend more than half your total working time on real estate activities to qualify as a real estate professional. So if you have a full-time job outside of real estate (say 2,000 hours/year), your 520 hours of property management wouldn't meet the "more than half" test. This is why it's often easier for one spouse to qualify if they're primarily focused on real estate activities.
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Ravi Sharma
My CPA initially told me I couldn't claim rental property losses against my W2 income, but after showing him the exact IRS rules about my wife's real estate professional status, he changed his tune. Not all tax preparers understand these nuances! The depreciation absolutely can create a loss, and with a real estate professional spouse, you can use those losses against other income. We've been doing this for 3 years and saving about $7k annually in taxes. Just make sure you're calculating the depreciation correctly. You'll need to separate the building value from the land value (land isn't depreciable) and use the 27.5 year schedule for residential rental property.
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Freya Thomsen
โขHow do you determine the split between land and building value for depreciation purposes? My county tax assessment breaks it down, but I've heard that's not always the best method.
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