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If you're just starting to learn taxes, focus on understanding your tax bracket and the difference between deductions and credits. Deductions reduce your taxable income, while credits directly reduce your tax bill dollar-for-dollar. Credits are way more valuable! Also, save everything! I keep a folder for receipts and tax documents throughout the year. Even stuff you think might not matter could be deductible depending on your situation. And definitely use tax software the first few years - it'll walk you through everything step by step.
Is there a simple way to figure out which credits I might qualify for? There seem to be so many and the eligibility requirements are confusing.
The most common credits for younger people are the Earned Income Tax Credit (if your income is below certain thresholds), education credits like the American Opportunity Credit or Lifetime Learning Credit if you've paid for college, the Saver's Credit if you've contributed to retirement accounts, and potentially the Child Tax Credit if you have kids. Most tax software will automatically check your eligibility for credits as you go through the filing process. You just answer questions about your situation, and it determines what you qualify for. That's why I recommend software for beginners - it does the heavy lifting of figuring out which credits apply to you.
Honestly the best way to learn is by doing. Reading about taxes is helpful but actually filling out forms is when it really clicks. I'd recommend downloading the free fillable PDF forms from the IRS website and practice filling them out before you submit anything. Form 1040 is the main form everyone uses, and you'll learn a lot just by seeing how the different schedules connect to it. Don't be afraid to make mistakes in your practice runs - that's how you learn what questions to ask!
Do you think that's better than using tax software for a first-timer? I'm worried I'll get totally lost in the forms without guidance.
I did exactly what you're describing last year with my MetLife policy. Cashed out about $3,500 and just spent it on home repairs. My agent said the same thing about taxes. Reality: I only paid tax on about $600 because that was the amount above what I'd paid in premiums. The insurance company sent me a 1099-R form showing the taxable amount. No big deal at all. Your agent is definitely exaggerating to get your business.
Thanks so much for sharing your experience! Did you have to calculate the premium amount yourself or did MetLife provide that information on the 1099-R? I'm trying to figure out how I'd even know my total premium payments since I don't have all my old statements.
MetLife provided both the gross distribution amount and the taxable amount right on the 1099-R form. Box the total cash value I received, and Box 2a showed only the taxable portion ($600 in my case). If Allstate doesn't calculate it for you, you might need to request a policy summary showing your total premium payments over the life of the policy. They should be able to provide that information since they need it for their own tax reporting.
I'm a little confused about something - did you cash out the policy or surrender it completely? There's a difference, and it matters for taxes. Did you terminate the policy entirely or just withdraw some of the cash value while keeping the policy active?
I surrendered it completely. I canceled my Allstate whole life policy and switched to a term policy with a different company. They sent me a check for the full cash value that had accumulated.
Just to add to this conversation - surrendering the policy completely (like OP did) vs. taking a loan against the cash value have different tax implications. Surrendering means you'll potentially pay tax on gains, while loans generally aren't taxable events (though they reduce your death benefit until repaid).
Just to add another perspective - I'm also a tutor and went through this exact situation last year. I decided to use regular depreciation (MACRS) instead of Section 179 because my income is growing each year, and I wanted to spread the deductions out over years when I'd be in a higher tax bracket. If you're expecting your tutoring income to increase significantly in the coming years, it might be worth considering the long-term strategy rather than getting the full deduction now. Just something to think about!
That's a really smart point about considering future income growth! Do you know off-hand what the depreciation percentages would be for each year if I went the MACRS route? And did you have to file any special forms when you did this?
For 5-year property under MACRS with the half-year convention, the percentages are roughly: 20% in year 1, 32% in year 2, 19.2% in year 3, 11.52% in year 4, 11.52% in year 5, and 5.76% in year 6. But since you're starting in the year after purchase, you'd use 32% for this year. Yes, you'll need to file Form 4562 (Depreciation and Amortization) with your Schedule C regardless of which method you choose. It's not particularly complicated, but tax software makes it much easier. The form has specific lines for listing your depreciable business assets and the method you're using.
Has anyone used TurboTax Self-Employed for handling this kind of depreciation situation? I'm in a similar boat and wondering if it walks you through all these options or if I need something more specialized.
I used TurboTax Self-Employed last year for my freelance business, and it does handle depreciation including Section 179 and MACRS. It asks a series of questions about when you purchased the equipment, what it's used for, and then gives you the options. It filled out Form 4562 automatically based on my answers. The interview process was pretty straightforward for basic equipment like computers. If you have more complex assets it might be worth getting additional help, but for a laptop used for tutoring, TurboTax should be fine.
Just FYI - I'm a regular eBay seller and one important thing to know is that eBay now collects sales tax on your behalf in most states anyway. So for your current sales, you don't need to worry about collecting or remitting sales tax yourself. For your past purchases where you didn't pay use tax, that's between you and your state. Some states have amnesty programs where you can pay past use tax without penalties if you're concerned. But as others mentioned, for IRS purposes, they just care about your cost basis vs selling price for determining if you made a taxable gain.
Thanks for mentioning that about eBay handling the sales tax now. I didn't realize that! So I just need to focus on accurately reporting my cost basis vs. selling price on my tax return? Do you know if it matters whether these were personal items vs. items I bought with the intention to resell?
For the IRS, intent does matter. If these were truly personal items you originally bought for yourself (not with intention to resell), then you're generally not taxed on sales unless you sell for more than your purchase price. Many personal items actually sell at a loss, which isn't deductible for personal items. If you bought items specifically to resell, that's different - you'd report all profit as business income on Schedule C and could deduct legitimate business expenses. The line gets blurry when you're selling collectibles that appreciated in value while you owned them. Those can be subject to capital gains tax (usually at higher collectible rates of 28% versus normal capital gains rates).
One thing no one's mentioned - if you're just selling personal stuff occasionally, the IRS probably won't even know about it until the 1099-K thresholds kick in. For 2023 its $20K and 200 transactions, but in 2024 it drops to $5K. So unless you're selling a lot, this might be a non-issue anyway. And honestly, practically nobody reports use tax on their personal online purchases. States know this is happening but they don't have good enforcement mechanisms for individual consumers. They're more focused on going after businesses or marketplace facilitators (which is why eBay now collects the tax).
Ellie Simpson
Don't forget you'll also need to: 1. Issue a corrected K-1 to each shareholder showing the new ownership percentages 2. Make sure your corporate minutes reflect the proper ownership 3. Check if you need to file Form 8821 (Tax Information Authorization) for the new shareholder 4. Amend any state returns that were affected I went through this last year and the paperwork was a nightmare, but better than the alternative of having the IRS discover it during an audit. Our CPA said the penalties aren't just financial - they could potentially question the validity of your S election if your ownership records aren't consistent and accurate.
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Arjun Kurti
β’Does the 3rd shareholder also need to file an amended personal return if they didn't initially report their share of S-Corp income?
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Ellie Simpson
β’Yes, absolutely. Once you issue them a K-1 (even retroactively), they'll need to amend their personal return to include their share of the S-Corporation's income, deductions, credits, etc. This is crucial because the IRS matches K-1 information against individual returns. If your corporation was profitable and distributions were made, this could result in additional tax liability for that shareholder. If it showed losses, they might actually benefit from amending to claim their share of the losses (subject to basis limitations).
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RaΓΊl Mora
Has anyone ever used Form 8832 (Entity Classification Election) as part of fixing their S-Corp ownership issues? Our accountant mentioned this might be relevant in our case but I'm confused about when it applies.
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Margot Quinn
β’Form 8832 is typically used when you want to change how your business is classified for tax purposes (like switching from partnership to corporation). It's generally NOT needed for simply adding or changing shareholders in an existing S-Corp. What you need is an amended 1120-S and revised K-1s. Your accountant might be confusing this with Form 2553 (Election by a Small Business Corporation) which is used to elect S-Corp status in the first place. If your accountant is suggesting Form 8832 for this situation, I'd honestly get a second opinion.
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