IRS

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Using Claimyr will:

  • Connect you to a human agent at the IRS
  • Skip the long phone menu
  • Call the correct department
  • Redial until on hold
  • Forward a call to your phone with reduced hold time
  • Give you free callbacks if the IRS drops your call

If I could give 10 stars I would

If I could give 10 stars I would If I could give 10 stars I would Such an amazing service so needed during the times when EDD almost never picks up Claimyr gets me on the phone with EDD every time without fail faster. A much needed service without Claimyr I would have never received the payment I needed to support me during my postpartum recovery. Thank you so much Claimyr!


Really made a difference

Really made a difference, save me time and energy from going to a local office for making the call.


Worth not wasting your time calling for hours.

Was a bit nervous or untrusting at first, but my calls went thru. First time the wait was a bit long but their customer chat line on their page was helpful and put me at ease that I would receive my call. Today my call dropped because of EDD and Claimyr heard my concern on the same chat and another call was made within the hour.


An incredibly helpful service

An incredibly helpful service! Got me connected to a CA EDD agent without major hassle (outside of EDD's agents dropping calls – which Claimyr has free protection for). If you need to file a new claim and can't do it online, pay the $ to Claimyr to get the process started. Absolutely worth it!


Consistent,frustration free, quality Service.

Used this service a couple times now. Before I'd call 200 times in less than a weak frustrated as can be. But using claimyr with a couple hours of waiting i was on the line with an representative or on hold. Dropped a couple times but each reconnected not long after and was mission accomplished, thanks to Claimyr.


IT WORKS!! Not a scam!

I tried for weeks to get thru to EDD PFL program with no luck. I gave this a try thinking it may be a scam. OMG! It worked and They got thru within an hour and my claim is going to finally get paid!! I upgraded to the $60 call. Best $60 spent!

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Ask the community...

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  • DO post tips & tricks to help folks.
  • DO NOT post call problems here - there is a support tab at the top for that :)

Don't forget about HSA contributions if you have a high-deductible health plan! This is often overlooked but is one of the best AGI reducers available. For 2023, you can contribute up to $3,850 (self-only) or $7,750 (family), plus an extra $1,000 if you're 55+. The great thing is you can still make 2023 contributions until April 15, 2024. It's triple tax-advantaged: reduces your AGI now, grows tax-free, and withdrawals for medical expenses are tax-free. Even if you didn't have an HSA-eligible plan all year, you can prorate your contribution based on how many months you were eligible.

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If I open an HSA account now in 2024, can I still make a contribution that counts for 2023? My employer offered a high-deductible plan that I was enrolled in all of 2023, but I never set up the HSA. Would really help if I could still get that AGI reduction.

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Yes, you absolutely can! As long as you were enrolled in a qualified high-deductible health plan (HDHP) during 2023, you can open an HSA now and make contributions for the 2023 tax year until the tax filing deadline (April 15, 2024). Since you were enrolled in the HDHP for the entire year, you can contribute the full amount - $3,850 for individual coverage or $7,750 for family coverage. Just make sure to designate it as a 2023 contribution when you make it. This will reduce your 2023 AGI by the full contribution amount. It's one of the few retroactive tax moves you can still make this year to affect last year's taxes.

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Emma Wilson

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Has anyone used the qualified business income deduction (Section 199A) to reduce their AGI? I have a small side business that made about $12k last year but I'm confused if this counts as an AGI reducer or if it comes after AGI is calculated.

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Yara Nassar

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The Qualified Business Income Deduction (Section 199A) is a bit confusing position-wise. Technically, it doesn't reduce your AGI - it's actually taken after your AGI is calculated but before your taxable income is determined. It's similar to the standard or itemized deduction in that regard. So while it's an amazing deduction that can reduce your taxable income by up to 20% of your qualified business income, it unfortunately won't help lower your AGI for things that are AGI-dependent. Focus instead on retirement contributions, HSA, and other above-the-line deductions to reduce your actual AGI.

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Rita Jacobs

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Tax preparer here (10+ years experience). What you described is absolutely NOT normal and is a major red flag. Professional tax preparers are required to have: 1) A PTIN (Preparer Tax Identification Number) 2) Professional tax software with e-filing capabilities 3) An EFIN (Electronic Filing Identification Number) if they e-file Using a client's personal TaxAct account is unprofessional, potentially violates regulations, and suggests they're either not a legitimate preparer or they're cutting corners in dangerous ways. I would find a different preparer immediately and consider reporting this person to the IRS.

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Khalid Howes

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Is there a way to check if someone is a legitimate tax preparer before hiring them? Like a database or something?

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Rita Jacobs

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Yes, you can verify if someone has a valid PTIN through the IRS. While the IRS doesn't have a public database you can search, you can ask to see their PTIN certificate or card before working with them. Legitimate preparers will have this readily available. You can also check if they're a CPA (through your state's board of accountancy), an Enrolled Agent (through the IRS), or a member of professional organizations like the National Association of Tax Professionals or the National Association of Enrolled Agents.

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Ben Cooper

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I made the mistake of letting a "tax preparer" use my TurboTax account last year. Turned out they filed returns for like 5 other people using my account!!! The IRS flagged it and I had to deal with proving I wasn't running some tax fraud scheme. CHANGE YOUR PASSWORD IMMEDIATELY and check if any other returns have been filed under your account!!! This could be serious!!!

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Naila Gordon

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OMG that's terrifying! Did you ever get it resolved? Did you have to pay penalties?

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One thing nobody's mentioned yet is that you might qualify for the IRS Fresh Start Program. It's not exactly one specific program but a collection of tax relief options with more flexible terms. I went through this when I owed about $32k in back taxes. The key qualification factors they looked at were my income, expenses, assets, and ability to pay. In my case, I qualified for an extended installment agreement that gave me 6 years to pay instead of the standard 3 years. Whatever you do, don't fall for those "settle for pennies on the dollar" ads you hear on the radio. Most people don't qualify for that level of reduction, and many of those companies charge thousands upfront with no guarantees.

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Vince Eh

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Do you have to have a certain amount of tax debt to qualify for the Fresh Start stuff? I owe about $8,500 from 2022 and 2023... is that even enough to bother with these programs?

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There's no minimum debt requirement for the Fresh Start provisions, so your $8,500 definitely qualifies. For smaller debts like yours, you might especially benefit from the streamlined installment agreement option, which has simplified application requirements for debts under $50,000. With $8,500, you might also consider whether you have any means to fully pay the debt, such as a personal loan with a lower interest rate than the IRS charges. The IRS interest and penalties continue to accrue even while you're on a payment plan, so sometimes it makes financial sense to pay it off another way if possible. But if that's not an option, definitely look into the streamlined installment agreement.

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Watch out for the 10-year statute of limitations on tax debt! The IRS generally has 10 years from the date of assessment to collect. If you're close to that 10-year mark on any of your back taxes, sometimes waiting it out (or getting into Currently Not Collectible status) can be a legitimate strategy. But be careful - certain actions can extend that 10-year period, like submitting an Offer in Compromise, filing for bankruptcy, or leaving the country for an extended period. I made the mistake of applying for an OIC that got rejected, and it added almost 2 years to my collection statute. Also, filing returns for older years can actually restart that 10-year clock, so you might want to consult with a tax pro before filing very old returns.

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This sounds like you're advising tax evasion which is literally a crime. You should ALWAYS file your tax returns even if you can't pay. Not filing is way worse than filing and setting up a payment plan.

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Check if you have any other income sources that aren't having taxes withheld. We had a similar shock one year because my side business and some investments weren't withholding anything. Also check if you're claiming all possible deductions - mortgage interest, student loan interest, retirement contributions, etc. Those can make a big difference.

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We don't have any side businesses, but we do have some investments that probably didn't have withholding. And we're not homeowners yet so no mortgage interest. Do retirement contributions through our employers' 401k plans automatically reduce our taxable income or do we need to do something special to claim that?

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401k contributions through your employers should automatically reduce your taxable income - they're taken out pre-tax so they already lowered the W-2 income reported to the IRS. You don't need to do anything special to claim those. If you have investment income without withholding, that's likely contributing to your tax bill. For the future, you might want to make quarterly estimated tax payments on that income, or increase your W-4 withholding to cover it. The key is making sure you're paying enough tax throughout the year one way or another.

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Ethan Davis

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Is anyone using TurboTax for this situation? I have a similar issue and wondering if the premium version helps with this or if I need to see an actual tax professional.

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Yuki Tanaka

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I use TurboTax Premium and it does have a W-4 calculator that can help with this. After you complete your return, it offers to help you update your W-4 for next year based on your results. It's pretty helpful but honestly I still found it confusing when dealing with two incomes.

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Emma Bianchi

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Just to add another perspective - I went through this exact situation. Did my undergrad in Brazil, then came to US for masters. My tax preparer told me that since the AOTC is for the "first 4 years of postsecondary education" regardless of where you did them, I couldn't claim it for my masters. But I was able to claim the Lifetime Learning Credit! It's a smaller credit (20% of up to $10,000 in qualified expenses, so max $2,000) but it helped offset some of my tuition costs. And unlike the AOTC, there's no limit on how many years you can claim it.

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Do you need specific forms from your school to claim the Lifetime Learning Credit? My university gave me a 1098-T but it doesn't show all the details I think I need.

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Emma Bianchi

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Yes, you should receive Form 1098-T from your US university which shows your qualified education expenses. Sometimes it doesn't include everything that's actually eligible though! For example, my form didn't include my required course materials, but those are qualified expenses I could add. If you're missing information on your 1098-T, contact your university's bursar or financial office - they can usually provide an itemized statement of your expenses. Keep receipts for things like textbooks and required supplies too, since those count but might not appear on your 1098-T.

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Has anyone found a good tax software that handles this situation well? I tried using [popular tax software] and it kept pushing me toward claiming AOTC even though I know I'm not eligible because I completed my undergrad in Germany before moving to the US for my master's.

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Charlie Yang

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I used TaxAct last year and it asked clear questions about my education history that helped determine I was only eligible for Lifetime Learning Credit. It specifically asked if I had completed 4 years of post-secondary education before, not just if I had claimed AOTC before.

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Thanks for the recommendation! I'll check out TaxAct. The software I was using just kept asking if I'd claimed AOTC for 4 years already, not whether I'd completed 4 years of college, which was confusing since I never claimed it before (wasn't in US during undergrad).

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