


Ask the community...
I'm in the same boat with a 1099K from eBay. Does anyone know if I need to keep track of EACH item I sold separately? I sold like 200+ things throughout the year and didn't keep perfect records of the cost of every single thing. Some were just stuff from around my house. Is the IRS going to come after me??
For items you're selling from around your house (personal items), those are generally considered personal capital assets rather than inventory. If you sell them for less than you paid, you don't report the loss. If you sell for more than you paid, technically it's a capital gain. However, for a reselling business where you buy items specifically to resell, you should track cost of goods sold. If you don't have exact records for every item, you can use a reasonable method to estimate your costs. For example, you might use an average cost percentage based on the items where you do have records.
Don't panic - you're actually in a pretty manageable situation! I went through this exact same thing two years ago when I started selling pottery online and got my first 1099K. A few quick tips to ease your stress: 1. Your expenses are solid - materials, packaging, and tools are all legitimate business deductions. Keep those receipts organized! 2. For the home office, since you mentioned using your dining room table, that probably won't qualify for the deduction since it's not exclusively used for business. But don't worry - your other deductions will still help significantly. 3. The self-employment tax might seem scary, but remember it's calculated on your NET profit after expenses. So with $14,600 in sales minus your $6,860 in expenses, you're looking at roughly $7,740 in profit subject to SE tax. 4. For quarterly payments - if this is your first year with business income and you had sufficient withholding from your W-2 job to cover most of your total tax liability, you'll likely avoid penalties. Start with getting your Schedule C filled out with all your income and expenses. Most tax software will walk you through this step by step. You've got this! The first year is always the most overwhelming, but you're actually well-prepared with your expense tracking.
Quick tip from someone who's been through this: wherever you are in the calendar, CALL ON TUESDAY OR WEDNESDAY MORNINGS! Monday = catching up on weekend emails Thursday/Friday = racing to finish weekly deadlines Afternoons = meetings and current client work When I called tax pros on Tuesday mornings around 10am, I got responses from 5 out of 6. When I tried Friday afternoons, 0 out of 4 called back.
Great question about timing! I just went through this process myself last year and learned some hard lessons. I'd actually add one more consideration to the great advice already shared: many tax professionals are also doing year-end tax planning consultations from November through December. So while September-October might be ideal for initial conversations, don't be surprised if they're busy again in November/December with existing clients. One thing that really helped me was being super prepared when I reached out. I had my previous year's tax return, a list of any changes in my situation, and specific questions ready. This showed I was serious and made it easier for them to quickly assess if they could help me. Also, don't overlook smaller, local firms. I initially only looked at big-name places and got nowhere. Found an amazing EA through a local business referral who had immediate availability and has been fantastic to work with. For investment income like you mentioned, definitely look for someone with specific experience in that area - ask them directly about similar clients they've worked with. It makes a huge difference in catching deductions and planning opportunities you might miss otherwise.
This won't help your current situation, but for anyone else reading this thread - if you have a car you think might actually appreciate or at least hold value (certain collectible models, limited editions, etc.), there's a strategy where you can document that you're buying it primarily as an investment rather than for personal use. You'd need to maintain records showing it's an investment (limited miles driven, storage conditions, maintenance records, documentation of its collectible status, etc.). You would still need to pay capital gains on any profit, but you might be able to deduct losses if you can prove investment intent.
Do you have any sources for this? I have a 2018 limited production sports car that I drive maybe 500 miles a year and keep in climate controlled storage. I've been meticulous with documentation because I suspected it would appreciate, but my tax guy never mentioned this possibility.
You should definitely explore this with a tax professional who specializes in collectibles and alternative investments. The key is proving "investment intent" from the time of purchase - which it sounds like you might have with your documentation and storage approach. Look into IRS Revenue Ruling 79-432 and related cases about collectible vehicles. The IRS generally looks at factors like: limited production numbers, historical appreciation trends, professional appraisals, minimal personal use, proper storage/maintenance for preservation (not just utility), and documentation showing you researched it as an investment opportunity. Your 500 miles/year usage pattern could actually work in your favor if you can show that level of restriction was specifically to preserve investment value. I'd recommend getting a professional appraisal done now to establish current fair market value for your records.
This is such a frustrating aspect of the tax code that I've dealt with personally. The asymmetry really does feel unfair - they want their cut when you win but won't let you offset when you lose. One thing that might help future readers: if you use your vehicle for ANY business purposes (rideshare, delivery, real estate showings, business meetings, etc.), keep meticulous records. Even partial business use can sometimes allow you to claim a proportional loss deduction. The key is having contemporaneous documentation - mileage logs, business trip records, receipts showing business-related vehicle expenses. I learned this the hard way after selling my truck at a $8,000 loss and initially being told I couldn't deduct any of it. Turns out about 30% of my usage was for my consulting business, so I was able to reclaim some of that loss. It's not perfect, but it's something. The moral of the story: if you're buying a vehicle and think there's ANY chance you might use it for business, document everything from day one. You never know when those records might save you thousands in taxes later.
lmaooo tax advocates are like bigfoot - everyone says they exist but nobody ever sees them š¤£
Definitely call them! I had the same issue - got assigned an advocate through the automated system but heard nothing for over a month. When I finally called, turns out they had the wrong phone number on file and had been trying to reach me. Got everything sorted within a week after that initial call. Don't wait - the IRS moves slow enough as it is!
Harold Oh
I'm going through this exact same situation right now and it's so stressful! My bank rejected my direct deposit on 2/28 and I've been checking WMR obsessively every day since. Reading through everyone's experiences here is actually really helpful - at least I know I'm not alone in this waiting game. It sounds like the 2-4 week timeline is pretty consistent, so I'm trying to be patient but it's hard when you're counting on that money. Has anyone had success getting through to the IRS phone line recently? I've been trying the 800 number but keep getting the busy signal. Thanks for sharing your experiences everyone - this community is a lifesaver when you're dealing with IRS issues!
0 coins
Arjun Kurti
ā¢I totally feel your frustration! I'm actually new to this community but dealing with a similar situation - my direct deposit was rejected about 10 days ago and I'm in the same boat of obsessively checking WMR with no updates. It's reassuring to see from everyone's experiences that 2-4 weeks seems to be the norm, even though it feels like forever when you're waiting. For the phone line, I've heard some people have better luck calling right when they open at 7am or trying the Spanish line first and then asking to be transferred. The waiting is the worst part because you have no control over the process. Hang in there - sounds like we're both in this together!
0 coins
Ava Martinez
I'm dealing with this exact situation too and it's incredibly frustrating! My bank rejected my direct deposit on 3/3 because I moved and forgot to update my account info with my new address. From what I've researched and experienced before, here's what typically happens: The IRS usually takes about 10-14 business days to process the rejection internally, then another 7-10 business days to print and mail the paper check. So you're looking at roughly 3-4 weeks total from the rejection date. The hardest part is that WMR rarely updates during this process - it just sits on "being processed" which is maddening when you need that money. One tip: if you have access to your tax transcript online, that will show the rejection codes and any updates before WMR does. Also, make absolutely sure your current address is on file with the IRS because they'll mail the check to whatever address they have in their system. I know the waiting is stressful, especially when bills are piling up, but hang in there - the check will come!
0 coins
Chloe Boulanger
ā¢This is really helpful information, thank you! I'm new to dealing with IRS issues and honestly feeling pretty overwhelmed by the whole process. Your timeline breakdown makes me feel a bit better about what to expect. I tried accessing my tax transcript online but got stuck during the identity verification process - they couldn't verify my credit information for some reason. Do you know if there are other ways to check transcript status, or am I stuck just waiting and hoping? Also, when you say make sure your address is current with the IRS, how do you actually update that if you've moved recently? I'm worried they might have my old address on file. Thanks for taking the time to explain all this - it really helps to hear from someone who's been through it before!
0 coins