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Has anyone actually calculated the total difference between employer pretax health insurance vs marketplace plans when considering ALL factors? I'm in similar situation but also wondering about: 1. Quality of network (my employer plan sucks) 2. Premium differences 3. Tax implications 4. Out-of-pocket differences My employer takes $515/month pretax but the deductible is $7000! Marketplace plan is $560/month but deductible only $3500. Trying to figure out total cost including taxes.

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The pretax employer premium at $515/month saves you roughly 30% in taxes depending on your tax bracket (federal + FICA). So that's about $154/month in tax savings. Marketplace: $560/month = $6,720/year Employer: $515/month = $6,180/year Tax savings with employer: ~$1,854/year So financially, your marketplace plan costs about $2,394 more annually when including lost tax benefits. BUT, the $3,500 lower deductible could make up for that if you expect to need significant healthcare. If you hit both deductibles, the marketplace plan would actually save you about $1,106 annually.

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This is super helpful breakdown, thanks! I'm pretty healthy but you never know when something unexpected might happen. Think I'll go with marketplace since high deductible scares me more than tax benefit. Wish the system wasn't so complicated tho!

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One thing to consider that hasn't been mentioned yet is whether your employer offers a Health Savings Account (HSA) option with their high-deductible health plan. If they do, that's another significant tax advantage you'd lose by going to marketplace coverage. HSA contributions are triple tax-advantaged: deductible going in, grow tax-free, and withdrawals for qualified medical expenses are tax-free. For 2025, you can contribute up to $4,300 for individual coverage or $8,550 for family coverage. This could potentially offset some of the higher deductible concerns while maximizing your tax benefits. Also worth checking if your employer contributes anything to an HSA on your behalf - that's essentially free money you'd be giving up. Some employers contribute $500-2000 annually to employee HSAs, which changes the math considerably when comparing total compensation packages. If HSA isn't available with your current plan, that might actually strengthen the case for switching to marketplace coverage, especially if you can find an HSA-eligible high-deductible plan there.

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This is a really important point about HSAs that I hadn't considered! I don't think my employer offers an HSA option with their plan - it's just a regular PPO with high premiums and high deductible (worst of both worlds honestly). @Madeline Blaze Do you know if marketplace plans can be HSA-eligible? I ve'heard mixed things about whether you can open your own HSA if you buy insurance outside of your employer. If I could get a high-deductible marketplace plan AND contribute to an HSA, that might actually make the math work out better even with the tax disadvantage on premiums. Also wondering if anyone knows - can you contribute to an HSA if you re'eligible for your employer s'health plan but choose not to take it? The HSA triple tax advantage sounds amazing if I can actually access it.

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Does anyone know if this same approach works for other types of income? My 14yo son has a small YouTube channel that just started generating ad revenue, but they required my info since he's underage.

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YouTube income is a bit different since it's typically reported on a 1099-K rather than a 1099-NEC. The nominee process would be similar, but there might be additional considerations around intellectual property and digital content creation. Your son's YouTube activity would likely be considered a business, so you'd still report it on Schedule C and then attribute it to him. Just make sure you keep good records of all channel-related expenses for deductions!

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Ryan Vasquez

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This is really helpful information! I had no idea there were specific exemptions for different types of work that minors do. My 17-year-old works as a camp counselor during summers and also does some pet-sitting through a neighborhood app. I'm wondering if there are other exemptions I should know about beyond the domestic service one that was mentioned for babysitting. It sounds like the type of work might make a difference in whether self-employment taxes apply or not. Does anyone know where I can find a comprehensive list of these exemptions for minors? Also, the Roth IRA idea is brilliant - I never thought about starting retirement savings this early but the compound growth potential is amazing. Definitely going to look into setting that up for my daughter once we get her tax situation sorted out.

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Yuki Tanaka

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Great questions about the exemptions! You're right that the type of work can make a big difference. From what I understand, there are several exemptions for minors under 18: 1. Domestic service (like babysitting, house cleaning) - exempt from self-employment tax 2. Newspaper delivery - traditionally exempt, though this is becoming less common 3. Work for parents' business - different rules apply depending on the business structure For camp counseling, that would typically be subject to self-employment tax since it's more of a professional service. Pet-sitting through an app might fall under domestic service depending on how it's structured. The IRS Publication 15 (Employer's Tax Guide) has some of this info, but honestly it can be pretty confusing to parse through. You might want to check with a tax professional or use one of those specialized tax analysis tools that others mentioned to make sure you're applying the right exemptions. And yes, definitely set up that Roth IRA! Starting at 17 with even small contributions could literally be worth hundreds of thousands more at retirement compared to starting in their 20s.

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Dylan Baskin

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I completely understand your anxiety about this - the "jeopardy" language is definitely designed to get your attention! Here's what I'd recommend based on your situation: **Don't wait** - even though you're only waiting for one W2, that lien/levy notice means the IRS is ready to take action. A few key points: 1. **Call the IRS immediately** at the number on your notice. Explain you're waiting for a missing W2 and plan to file soon. They can often put a temporary hold (60-90 days) on collection actions. 2. **Request your wage transcript** from IRS.gov while you wait - this shows all reported W2 info and might have enough detail to file without the physical W2. 3. **Set up a minimal payment plan** if you can't reach them by phone. Even $25/month stops collection and shows good faith. Online setup is only $31 vs $107 by phone. The key thing is **communication** - the IRS doesn't know you plan to pay with your refund. From their perspective, you're just ignoring a debt. Once you make contact and explain your situation, they're usually reasonable about working with you. Don't risk a lien on your credit report over $650 - it's not worth the long-term damage for a relatively small amount. Take action today!

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This is really solid advice, especially about calling them today. I had a similar situation a couple years ago and made the mistake of waiting "just another week" for some paperwork - ended up with way more complications than if I'd just called immediately. The temporary hold option is clutch if you can get through to them. And Dylan's right about the communication piece - the IRS agents are actually pretty reasonable when you proactively reach out versus them having to chase you down. They deal with people who completely ignore notices all day, so when someone calls to explain their situation, they're usually willing to work with you. One thing to add - if you do end up setting up that payment plan, you can always pay it off early once you get your refund. The plan just buys you time and stops the collection process.

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Ethan Scott

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I had almost this exact same situation last year - owed about $700 and got that scary "jeopardy" notice while waiting for a delayed 1099 from a freelance gig. The language in those notices is definitely designed to get you moving fast! Here's what worked for me: I called the IRS number on the notice (took about 2 hours on hold, but I got through). The agent was actually really understanding when I explained I was just waiting for tax documents. She put a 90-day collection hold on my account, which gave me plenty of time to get everything sorted out. The key thing they told me is that once you receive that "lien/levy warning," you're basically at the final stage before they take action. They don't know you're planning to use your refund to pay it off - from their system, it just looks like you're ignoring the debt. Don't stress too much about the $650 amount, but definitely don't ignore the timeline. Even setting up a $25/month payment plan online would stop the collection process immediately if you can't get through by phone. You can always pay it off in full once you file and get your refund. The worst thing you can do is nothing - I've seen people end up with liens over tiny amounts just because they thought it wasn't worth dealing with. Take care of it this week!

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Lydia Bailey

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This is exactly the kind of real-world experience that helps! Two hours on hold is rough but definitely worth it to get that 90-day breathing room. I'm curious - when you called, did you have to provide any specific documentation or proof that you were waiting for tax documents, or did they just take your word for it? I'm planning to call tomorrow morning and want to be prepared with whatever info they might need. Also, did they give you any kind of confirmation number or paperwork about the collection hold, or was it just noted in their system? Thanks for sharing your experience - it's really reassuring to hear from someone who went through the same thing!

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Ava Johnson

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@223ee46b4e6f They didn't ask for any documentation when I called - they just took my word for it since I was being proactive about contacting them. I explained I was waiting for a specific W2 from my summer employer and gave them the company name and approximate dates I worked there. They did give me a confirmation number for the collection hold, which I wrote down immediately (wish I could remember it now, but it was something like a 10-digit number starting with "CH" - definitely keep whatever number they give you!). The agent also told me the exact date the hold would expire, which was super helpful for planning. Pro tip: when you call, have your Social Security number, the notice number from your letter, and the amount you owe ready. Also be prepared to explain exactly what documents you're waiting for and from whom. The more specific you can be, the more helpful they tend to be. Good luck with your call! The wait time sucks, but it's totally worth it to get that peace of mind and stop the collection process.

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Carmen Ortiz

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I went through this exact same process about 6 months ago and can confirm what others have said - the sequence is crucial. I made the mistake of overthinking it initially and got stuck in analysis paralysis. Here's what I learned from my experience: 1. The IRS EIN application system is designed around legal entity types, not tax elections. So when you see "LLC" vs "S Corporation" options, they're asking about your legal structure, not your tax treatment. 2. Apply for your EIN using "Limited Liability Company" and your full legal name including "LLC". Don't try to work around the system by omitting "LLC" or using a DBA - this could create complications later. 3. The online EIN application really does give you the number immediately in most cases. I was surprised by how fast it was. 4. File Form 2553 as soon as you get your EIN. Don't wait - the 2 month 15 day deadline is firm, and while there's late election relief available, it's better to just file on time. One thing I wish I'd known: make sure your LLC Operating Agreement doesn't have any provisions that would disqualify you from S Corp treatment (like disproportionate distributions or more than 100 members). It's worth reviewing this before you file the election. The whole process took me less than a week once I understood the proper sequence. Good luck with your application!

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This is incredibly helpful, thank you! I'm actually in the middle of this process right now and was getting overwhelmed by all the conflicting information I found online. Your point about the Operating Agreement is especially valuable - I hadn't even thought to check if there were provisions that could disqualify the S Corp election. Quick question: when you mention "disproportionate distributions," what exactly should I be looking for in my Operating Agreement? My business partner and I have equal ownership (50/50), but I want to make sure there's nothing hidden in the language that could cause issues. Also, did you have to notify your state at all about the S Corp election, or was it purely a federal filing?

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Raul Neal

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Great question about disproportionate distributions! In your Operating Agreement, look for any language that allows profits or losses to be allocated differently from ownership percentages. For example, if you and your partner both own 50%, but the agreement says one partner gets 60% of profits in certain situations, that would disqualify S Corp status. Also watch out for clauses about "preferred returns" or different classes of membership interests with varying rights. S Corps can only have one class of stock, so your LLC needs to mirror that - equal rights to distributions and liquidation proceeds based on ownership percentage. As for state notification, it was purely federal in my case (I'm in Texas). The S Corp election is just a tax treatment choice with the IRS - your LLC remains an LLC under state law. However, some states do have different tax implications for S Corps, so it's worth checking with your state's revenue department or a local CPA to understand any state-level tax changes. Since you have 50/50 ownership, you're likely fine as long as your Operating Agreement doesn't have any special allocation provisions. Most standard LLC agreements for equal partners are S Corp compliant, but definitely worth having someone review it before filing Form 2553.

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I just went through this exact process last month and wanted to share what worked for me since I see a lot of great advice here but also some confusion in the comments. The key insight that finally clicked for me: the EIN application asks about your LEGAL entity structure, while Form 2553 is about your TAX election. These are completely separate things, which is why the IRS website seems confusing when you're trying to do both at once. Here's exactly what I did: 1. Applied online for EIN selecting "Limited Liability Company" - used our full legal name including "LLC" 2. Got the EIN instantly (literally took 10 minutes total) 3. Downloaded Form 2553 from IRS website 4. Had both LLC members sign it 5. Mailed it certified mail the next day One thing I'll add to what others have said: make sure you understand the "reasonable compensation" requirements once your S Corp election is effective. As an S Corp, you'll need to pay yourself a reasonable salary (subject to payroll taxes) before taking distributions. This is something to budget for since it affects your cash flow. The whole thing was much simpler than I expected once I stopped overthinking it. The IRS systems actually work pretty well when you follow the proper sequence!

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CyberNinja

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Thanks for sharing your experience! The reasonable compensation requirement is something I completely overlooked when considering S Corp election. Can you elaborate on what "reasonable" means in practice? I'm wondering if there are specific guidelines or if it's more subjective. Also, did you set up payroll processing before or after receiving confirmation of your S Corp election? I'm trying to figure out the timing of when I need to start treating myself as an employee versus just taking owner distributions.

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Molly Hansen

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Just wanted to add something important that hasn't been mentioned yet - make sure you keep detailed records of the original loan transaction too. Since you withdrew $50K in cash from your bank, that withdrawal should be documented on your bank statements. This creates a clear paper trail showing the money left your account and then returned, which helps establish the legitimacy of the loan arrangement. Also, regarding the 15% interest rate you charged - that's actually quite reasonable and well above the current Applicable Federal Rates (AFR), so you shouldn't have any issues with the IRS questioning whether this was a legitimate loan versus a disguised gift. The AFR for short-term loans is currently much lower, so your 15% rate clearly shows this was a commercial-style transaction. One more thing to consider: if you plan to make similar loans in the future, you might want to consider having your friend write you a check for the interest portion instead of paying in cash. This creates better documentation and avoids the complications others mentioned about carrying large amounts of cash.

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Amina Diallo

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Great points about documentation! I'm curious though - if someone has already completed the loan transaction in cash like the OP did, is it too late to create better documentation after the fact? Or are there steps they can take retroactively to strengthen their paper trail for tax purposes? I'm thinking about writing up a more detailed summary of what happened with dates and amounts, but I'm not sure if that would actually help or if it needs to be contemporaneous documentation.

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I've been through a similar situation with personal loans to family members, and I learned the hard way that documentation is everything. Here's what I wish I had known from the start: First, yes, you absolutely need to report that $7.5K as interest income on your tax return. Even though it's cash sitting in your safe, it's still taxable income the moment your friend paid it to you. The IRS doesn't care about the physical form - income is income. Second, while your loan agreement is a good start, I'd strongly recommend creating a supplemental memo now documenting the complete transaction timeline. Include the withdrawal date from your bank, the loan disbursement date, the repayment date, and amounts. Even though this is after-the-fact documentation, it shows you're treating this as a legitimate business transaction. Third, consider depositing that $7.5K interest into your bank account rather than keeping it as cash. This creates a clear audit trail and removes any potential complications from having large amounts of undocumented cash. Plus, if you ever get audited, having bank records showing the interest income makes everything much cleaner. Finally, make sure your friend understands this was a legitimate loan with interest, not a gift. If the IRS ever questions either of you about it, you both need to tell the same story about this being an arm's length transaction.

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This is really helpful advice! I'm in a similar situation where I made a personal loan to my brother last year, but I didn't keep as detailed records as I should have. Your point about creating a supplemental memo even after the fact is reassuring - I was worried it would look suspicious to document everything retroactively. Quick question about depositing the interest payment: if I deposit the cash interest into my account now (several months after receiving it), will that timing raise any red flags with the bank? I'm thinking it might look odd to have a random cash deposit that doesn't correspond to when I actually received the money. Should I include a note with the deposit explaining what it's for? Also, totally agree about making sure both parties are on the same page about this being a legitimate loan. I learned that lesson when my brother casually mentioned to our parents that I "gave him some money" - had to quickly correct that it was a loan with interest!

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