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Has anyone used TurboTax for reporting seller financing? I'm wondering if it handles Form 6252 correctly or if I should just go to a CPA this year.

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NeonNova

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I used TurboTax last year for my seller-financed cabin sale. It does support Form 6252, but you really need to understand the concepts yourself first. I found the interview questions confusing because they aren't really designed with seller financing in mind.

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Great thread! I'm also going through seller financing for the first time. One thing I learned from my accountant that might help - make sure you're keeping detailed records of ALL the closing costs and expenses related to the sale, not just the payments you receive. Things like title insurance, attorney fees, recording fees, etc. can all be added to your basis, which reduces your taxable gain. Also, if you're paying any ongoing expenses like property management fees or collection costs, those might be deductible against the interest income you're reporting. Another heads up - if your buyer ever defaults and you have to foreclose, that creates a whole different set of tax implications. The IRS treats it as a separate sale transaction, so you'd need to report any additional gain or loss at that point. Hopefully it doesn't come to that, but it's worth understanding upfront. Has anyone dealt with state tax requirements for seller financing? I'm in California and trying to figure out if there are additional state forms beyond the federal ones.

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Has anybody used H&R Block software for filing Form 709? Does it walk you through which schedules to fill out based on your situation? I'm trying to decide if I should use software or just fill out the paper form myself.

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Sean Murphy

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I used H&R Block for my 709 filing last year. It does ask questions to determine which schedules you need, but honestly I found their guidance on Schedule D and GST tax pretty minimal. It basically just asked if I was making gifts to skip persons without really explaining what that meant. I ended up calling their support line for clarification. If your situation is straightforward it's probably fine, but for anything complex I'd recommend getting professional help.

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I went through this exact same confusion last year when I had to file Form 709 for the first time! The key thing to understand is that Schedule D is ONLY for Generation-Skipping Transfer (GST) tax, which applies when you're making gifts to people who are two or more generations below you. Since you're giving to your niece, she's considered one generation below you (not a "skip person"), so you can completely skip Schedule D. You'll only need to complete Schedule A to report the gift details and potentially Schedule C if you need to calculate any gift tax (though with the current lifetime exemption being over $13 million, you probably won't owe any actual tax). The IRS instructions can definitely be overwhelming, but for your straightforward gift to a niece, you're dealing with a much simpler situation than the forms make it seem. Focus on Schedule A and don't stress about Schedule D - it literally doesn't apply to your case!

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LilMama23

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This is really helpful! I'm new to this community and also dealing with my first gift tax return. Just to make sure I understand - when you say "one generation below," does that mean the relationship matters more than the actual age difference? My niece is only 5 years younger than me, so I was wondering if age played a role in determining generations for tax purposes. Also, do you know if there's a difference between nieces/nephews on your spouse's side versus your own family side when it comes to these generation rules? Thanks for breaking this down in such simple terms!

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Ava Martinez

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Anyone know if there's a penalty for not reporting this in previous years? I've been working in Brazil for 5 years and never included my FGTS in my FBAR calculations... 😬

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Miguel Ramos

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The penalties can be STEEP for willful violations - up to $100k or 50% of the account balance per violation! But if it was a genuine mistake, you can file under the Streamlined Procedures program and potentially avoid penalties. Don't wait though, fix it before they come to you!

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This is really helpful information! I'm in a similar situation as an expat in Germany with mandatory pension contributions. Based on what everyone's saying, it sounds like the key principle is that if you have a "financial interest" in an account outside the US, it counts toward FBAR reporting regardless of withdrawal restrictions. One thing I'd add for the original poster - make sure you're using the correct exchange rates when converting your Brazilian real amounts to USD for reporting. The IRS has specific guidance on which exchange rates to use (generally the Treasury's year-end rates for the maximum balance calculation). Also, keep good records of your monthly FGTS statements throughout the year so you can accurately determine the maximum balance. Since employers deposit 8% monthly, your balance is constantly growing, so the maximum will likely be at year-end unless there were any withdrawals. Good luck with your filing!

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Aisha Khan

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Great point about the exchange rates! I'm new to all this international tax stuff and had no idea there were specific IRS requirements for which rates to use. Do you happen to know where to find the Treasury's year-end rates? And just to clarify - we use the year-end rate even if the maximum balance occurred earlier in the year, or do we use the rate from when the maximum actually occurred? Also really appreciate everyone sharing their experiences here. As someone just starting to navigate expat tax obligations, this thread has been incredibly educational!

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PRO TIP: Make copies of EVERYTHING before you send it in!!! I learned this the hard way when the IRS claimed they never received my 4506-T form, even though I had mailed it. Second time around, I made copies, sent it certified mail with return receipt, AND kept the tracking number. When they tried to tell me they didn't have it again, I had proof of delivery and was able to get it resolved. Also, double-check that you've signed the form. It sounds obvious, but that's the #1 reason these get rejected.

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Javier Cruz

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Is there any way to submit the 4506-T online instead of mailing or faxing it? Would make this whole process so much easier.

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Gael Robinson

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You can submit Form 4506-T online through the IRS Get Transcript Online service if you can pass their identity verification process. You'll need to create an account and verify your identity using a credit card, mortgage, or auto loan account. However, not everyone can use the online system - if you can't verify your identity online (like if you don't have qualifying accounts), you'll have to mail or fax it. The online option is definitely faster when it works though - you can get your verification of non-filing letter immediately instead of waiting weeks. If the online system doesn't work for you, certified mail with return receipt is definitely the way to go like Natasha mentioned!

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Just wanted to add some clarity since I work at a financial aid office and see this confusion all the time. Everyone here is absolutely correct - you MUST use Form 4506-T (the full version) for verification of non-filing, not the EZ version. The 4506T-EZ is literally designed only for people who filed returns and need transcripts of those returns. It has no mechanism to verify non-filing because that's not what it's for. Think of it this way: how can a form designed to get copies of filed returns prove you didn't file? It can't. For financial aid purposes specifically, make sure you're checking Box 7 on Form 4506-T and clearly indicate the tax year you need verified. Also, be aware that some schools require the verification of non-filing for EVERY year you're claiming you didn't file, not just the most recent one. One more tip: if you're rushing to meet a financial aid deadline, contact your school's financial aid office. Many will accept a completed Form 4506-T as temporary documentation while you wait for the IRS response, especially if you explain the processing delays.

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Income increase puts me over Roth IRA limit after already contributing - what are my options now?

I put $6,500 into my Roth IRA back in February this year assuming my income would be around $135,000 like last year (2024), which was under the $146,000 limit for single filers. But I just got a promotion with a 25% raise, which is gonna push me to about $169,000 for the year. So now I'm freaking out because I've already contributed the max to my Roth IRA but won't actually be eligible! From what I can tell online, I have these options: 1. Just remove the excess contribution - Would this trigger any penalties? The money would go back to my money market account at Vanguard, right? I'm thinking since the tax year isn't over yet, maybe there's no penalty? 2. Recharacterize to Traditional IRA - I could switch the $6,500 from Roth to Traditional IRA. I don't have a Traditional IRA yet (just my Roth, a 401k from old job, and a regular brokerage account). Does this make a backdoor Roth easier later? 3. Do nothing - But then I'd pay a 6% penalty on the whole amount every year, and if I try to withdraw later I'd get hit with the 10% early withdrawal penalty too. One more thing - my investments are down about 12% since I contributed in February. If I withdraw now, do I withdraw the current value or the original contribution? And if the market rebounds later this year, does it matter when I actually do the withdrawal? I'm also worried I might have overcontributed for 2024 too. The income limit was $146,000 but my MAGI was $135,000 which might only allow a partial contribution. Do I need to fix that too?

Worth mentioning that the timing for recharacterization or removal is important. You have until your tax filing deadline INCLUDING EXTENSIONS to fix this - even if you don't actually file an extension. So for 2025 taxes (for the 2024 tax year), that gives you until October 15, 2025. But don't wait until the last minute because the financial institutions can take time to process these requests!

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Does this mean that even if I file my taxes in February 2025, I still have until October 15th to fix an overcontribution from 2024?

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Amara Nnamani

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Yes, exactly! Even if you file your taxes early in February, you still have until October 15th to correct overcontributions from the previous tax year. This is because the IRS allows corrections up to the extended deadline regardless of when you actually file. However, there's an important caveat - if you already filed your return and claimed the Roth IRA contribution on it, you'll need to file an amended return (Form 1040X) after you make the correction. So it's definitely easier to handle the recharacterization or removal before you file your taxes if possible.

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Just want to add one more consideration that hasn't been mentioned yet - if you're considering the recharacterization route, make sure to factor in your state tax situation too. Some states don't allow deductions for Traditional IRA contributions, so even though you'd get the federal deduction, you might still owe state taxes on the contribution. Also, regarding your concern about potentially overcontributing for 2024 - with a MAGI of $135,000, you would have been eligible for a reduced contribution of about $4,600 (not the full $6,500). So you'll likely need to address that excess too. The good news is you can handle both years' corrections at the same time with your broker. One tip from my experience: when you call Vanguard, ask specifically for their "retirement specialists" rather than general customer service. They're much more knowledgeable about these types of contribution corrections and can walk you through exactly what forms you'll need and how it will be reported on your 1099-R.

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Noland Curtis

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Thanks for the state tax insight - that's something I hadn't even considered! I'm in Texas so no state income tax to worry about, but good point for others reading this. Really appreciate the tip about asking for Vanguard's retirement specialists too. I called their general line yesterday and the rep seemed unsure about some of the details. I'll definitely ask to be transferred to someone who handles these corrections regularly. One question about handling both years at once - do I need separate forms for the 2024 and 2025 corrections, or can Vanguard process them together? Want to make sure I don't mess up the paperwork side of this.

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