Just wanted to jump in here as someone who's been through this process twice now (2022 and 2024 returns). The identity verification thing is definitely nerve-wracking at first, but it's become pretty standard due to all the fraud they've been dealing with. My experience from this year: completed verification on March 12th, saw code 571 on my transcript March 29th, and got my refund deposited April 5th. So right around 3.5 weeks total, which seems to be the sweet spot most people are hitting. One thing I'll add that I haven't seen mentioned yet - make sure you keep a record of when you completed the verification. Sometimes there can be glitches in their system and having that date handy is useful if you need to call later. Also, if you used the online ID.me verification (which most people do now), you should have gotten a confirmation email that you can reference. The transcript checking on Fridays is spot on advice. I got into that routine and it saved my sanity vs constantly refreshing WMR which basically never updates during this process. You're probably looking at 2-4 weeks max based on what everyone else is reporting. Hang in there!

Just went through this exact same situation! I completed my identity verification about 3 weeks ago and just got my refund deposited yesterday. Here's what helped me stay sane during the waiting period: 1. Stop checking Where's My Refund - it's basically useless during ID verification. It'll just say "being processed" the whole time. 2. Focus on your transcript instead. Check it on Friday mornings when they typically update. Look for code 571 (freeze released) followed by code 846 (refund issued with date). 3. The 9-week timeframe is a worst-case scenario. Most people I've talked to got their money within 3-4 weeks after completing verification. 4. Keep your ID.me confirmation email handy in case you need to reference it later. The hardest part is definitely the waiting, but based on all the timelines people are sharing here, you should see movement on your transcript within the next week or two. Once that 571 code appears, your refund typically follows pretty quickly. You're almost there! 🤞

This is a really common confusion point! Just to add some clarity - the HSA premium pass-through from your employer absolutely goes on line 9 of Form 8889 as an employer contribution. The $75/month ($900 annually) that your employer is contributing reduces your personal contribution limit by that same amount. One thing that trips people up is that these contributions might appear in different places on your W-2 depending on how your employer handles them. Look for Box 12 with code W - that should show the total of all employer HSA contributions including your premium pass-through. Also make sure you're not accidentally double-counting this amount elsewhere on your return. The premium pass-through is already tax-advantaged money, so you don't get an additional deduction for it. It just reduces how much you can personally contribute while staying within the annual limits.

Just wanted to share my experience since I went through this exact same confusion last year! The HSA premium pass-through definitely goes on line 9 of Form 8889 as an employer contribution, even though it might feel like "your" money since it's part of your benefits package. One thing that really helped me was keeping track of all my HSA-related documents throughout the year. I created a simple spreadsheet with my monthly employer contributions ($75 like yours), any personal contributions I made, and my HSA account statements. This made filling out Form 8889 much easier because I could see exactly how much came from where. Also, don't forget that if you're 55 or older, you get that extra $1,000 catch-up contribution on top of the regular limits. And if you changed jobs or insurance coverage during the year, the contribution limits might be prorated based on your months of HDHP coverage. The key thing to remember is that ALL contributions to your HSA count toward the same annual limit - doesn't matter if they come from you, your employer, or insurance pass-throughs. It all goes into the same bucket!

Have you considered adjusting your W-4 at your main job to have more taxes withheld? That might help offset the freelance tax burden. I do this since I have rental income that creates extra tax liability.

This exact same thing happened to me two years ago! The combination of freelance income + bonus really does create a perfect storm for tax surprises. One thing that helped me was understanding that the "tax brackets" are marginal - so when that extra $19k pushed you into higher brackets, only the income ABOVE each threshold gets taxed at the higher rate, not your entire income. Still expensive, but not as bad as it initially seems. Also, definitely look into whether you can still contribute to a traditional IRA for 2024 (you have until the filing deadline). Even a $6k contribution could reduce your tax bill by $1,320-$1,980 depending on your bracket. Every bit helps when you're staring down an $8,700 bill! For this year's freelance work, open a separate savings account and automatically transfer 30% of every freelance payment. Treat that money as already gone - it makes the quarterly payments so much less painful.

Pro tip: Keep checking your transcript weekly. Sometimes they move faster than the Where's My Refund tool shows.

I'm going through something similar with my 2022 amended return. Been waiting since August and just had my second ID verification last week. Your transcript breakdown is super helpful - I need to pull mine to see if I have those same transaction codes. The "RETURN NOT PRESENT" thing is confusing when they clearly have your filing status on file. Hoping yours moves soon since the freeze is lifted! 🤞

Has anyone actually done this successfully? I started something similar last year and ended up with a donor-advised fund instead because the legal and compliance requirements for a private foundation were too intense. The annual reporting alone was going to cost me thousands in accounting fees.

I've been through this exact process and can share some practical insights. You're right that this sounds like a private foundation structure, and yes, it's absolutely doable with proper planning. A few key things I learned during my setup: 1. The "sole member" aspect is perfectly legal, but you'll still need independent directors on your board to satisfy IRS requirements. I structured mine with me as the sole voting member, but with 3 independent directors who handle day-to-day operations and conflict of interest oversight. 2. For the investment growth strategy - this works, but be very careful about the types of investments you choose. The "jeopardizing investments" rules are stricter than most people realize. Stick to conservative, diversified portfolios initially. 3. Your 5% annual distribution plan is solid, but make sure you're calculating it correctly. It's based on the fair market value of your non-charitable use assets, averaged over the prior 3 years. The IRS has specific rules about what counts toward this requirement. 4. Documentation is crucial. Keep detailed records showing that all decisions benefit the charitable purpose, not personal interests. The IRS will scrutinize transactions between you and the foundation very closely. One unexpected benefit: having this structure has actually made my charitable giving more strategic and impactful. The multi-year planning horizon lets you tackle bigger projects than you could with annual donations. Happy to answer specific questions about the setup process if helpful.