


Ask the community...
Has anyone used TurboTax for reporting this kind of stuff? I'm trying to figure out where to even enter these "services instead of rent" scenarios and it's not obvious at all.
I use TurboTax and for this situation, you'd just enter the full rent amount as income on Schedule E, then add the value of services (like lawn mowing) as a separate expense under "repairs and maintenance" or whatever category is appropriate. TurboTax doesn't have a specific field for "payment in kind" - you just handle each side of the transaction separately.
This thread has been incredibly helpful! I've been struggling with similar rental income questions and the explanations here finally made it click for me. One thing I'd add from my experience - make sure to keep really detailed records of these arrangements. When my tenant started doing yard work in exchange for reduced rent, I created a simple log documenting the date, work performed, and value. This saved me during an audit last year when the IRS wanted to verify the "fair market value" of the services. Also, for anyone dealing with utility payments like the water bill example, I found it helpful to set up a separate tracking system. I record the full rent amount as income, then track each utility payment the tenant makes on my behalf as both an additional income item and corresponding expense. It keeps everything transparent and makes tax time much less stressful. The key insight from this discussion is that the IRS wants to see the full economic value of the rental arrangement, not just the net cash flow. Once you understand that principle, all these scenarios start to make sense.
This is such great advice about keeping detailed records! I'm just getting started as a landlord and hadn't thought about the documentation aspect. When you say you track the "fair market value" of services, how do you actually determine that? For example, if my tenant agrees to do landscaping work, do I need to get quotes from landscaping companies to establish the value, or is there a simpler way to document it? Also, your point about tracking utilities as both income and expense makes total sense now. I was getting confused trying to figure out the "net" effect, but separating them out seems much cleaner for record-keeping purposes.
Had this exact issue. Called IRS after 4 weeks. They confirmed check was actually mailed. Started payment trace. Check arrived next day. Sometimes system updates before physical mailing occurs. Be patient. Almost there. Keep checking informed delivery.
Has anyone else noticed that the IRS seems to say checks are "mailed" before they actually hand them over to USPS? My refund was supposedly mailed on February 24th but didn't arrive until March 18th! I checked informed delivery every single day and was getting so anxious. Should I call them to ask what's happening? What if it got lost? How long should I wait before panicking?
Thank you all for the helpful information! I will wait until April 9th (4 weeks) before taking further action. I didn't know there was such a big gap between when they say it's mailed and when it actually arrives.
@Miranda Singer Your timeline is actually pretty typical unfortunately! The 3+ week delay you experienced matches what many of us have been seeing this tax season. The IRS mailed "date" seems to be when they approve it for Treasury processing, not when USPS actually gets it. I d'suggest waiting the full 4 weeks before calling - that seems to be the magic number when they ll'actually help you start a trace. The anxiety is totally understandable though, especially when you re'expecting it and checking informed delivery daily!
One thing I haven't seen mentioned yet is the importance of timing for your gambling loss documentation. The IRS requires that you maintain a gambling diary or log contemporaneously - meaning you record your wins and losses at the time they occur, not after the fact. Since you mentioned you've "kept all your losing tickets and tracked everything meticulously," make sure your records include the date, location, type of gambling activity, names of other people present, and amounts won or lost for each session. Just having the losing tickets isn't enough - you need detailed records showing when and where each gambling activity occurred. Also, be aware that if you're audited, the IRS will want to see bank records, credit card statements, and other financial documents that corroborate your gambling activity. They'll look for patterns that match your claimed losses, like regular ATM withdrawals at casinos or consistent spending patterns. Given the size of your winnings ($180k), there's a higher chance this return could be flagged for review, so having bulletproof documentation is crucial. Consider consulting with a tax professional who specializes in gambling income - the cost of professional advice could save you significant headaches if the IRS comes knocking.
This is excellent advice about the contemporaneous documentation requirement. I'm curious - what happens if someone has kept all their losing tickets but didn't maintain a detailed gambling diary at the time? Are they completely out of luck, or is there a way to reconstruct acceptable records after the fact? Also, you mentioned consulting with a tax professional who specializes in gambling income. How do you find someone with that specific expertise? Most CPAs I've talked to seem to have limited experience with large gambling winnings and losses. Given that the original poster has $180k in winnings, do you think the IRS automatically flags returns with gambling income above a certain threshold, or is it more about unusual patterns in the deductions claimed?
Great questions! If someone only has losing tickets without a contemporaneous diary, they're not completely out of luck, but they're in a much weaker position. The IRS may still accept the tickets as evidence, but they'll want to see supporting documentation like bank records, credit card statements, or casino player's club records that show the pattern of gambling activity. You can try to reconstruct records using these financial documents, but it's much less reliable than having kept proper records from the start. For finding a CPA with gambling expertise, look for Enrolled Agents (EAs) or CPAs who advertise experience with "gaming industry" or "professional gamblers." The American Institute of CPAs has a directory where you can search by specialty. Tax attorneys who work with casinos or professional poker players are another option, though more expensive. Regarding IRS flagging, large gambling winnings often trigger automatic review because of the W-2G forms casinos and lottery commissions file. The IRS computer systems look for discrepancies between reported winnings and claimed losses. A $180k win with $180k in losses might raise questions simply because it's unusual for losses to perfectly match winnings. Having detailed, contemporaneous records becomes even more critical at these amounts.
Something else to consider - make sure you understand the difference between "session" losses and "annual" losses when documenting everything. The IRS wants to see that your gambling losses were legitimate gambling activities, not just a paper trail created to offset winnings. For lottery specifically, keep records of when you purchased tickets, from which retailer, what games you played, and the results. If you're buying tickets regularly over time, that creates a better pattern than if you suddenly started buying thousands of dollars worth right after your big win. Also, don't forget about the AMT (Alternative Minimum Tax) implications. Large gambling deductions can sometimes trigger AMT calculations, which could reduce the benefit you get from itemizing your losses. With your income level ($125k job + $180k winnings), you'll definitely want to run the numbers both ways. One more practical tip - organize all your documentation before you file. Create a summary sheet showing total winnings, total losses by month, and keep everything in chronological order. If you do get audited, having organized records will make the process much smoother and show the IRS you took proper care in documenting everything.
This is really helpful advice about organizing documentation! I'm new to dealing with gambling winnings and this whole thread has been eye-opening. One thing I'm wondering about - you mentioned the difference between "session" losses and "annual" losses. Could you explain that a bit more? I'm not sure I understand what the IRS is looking for there. Also, regarding the AMT implications you brought up - is there a general threshold where AMT becomes a concern, or does it depend on your specific tax situation? With the amounts the original poster is dealing with, it sounds like getting professional help is definitely the way to go, but I'd love to understand the basics of when AMT might kick in. Thanks for sharing your knowledge - this stuff gets complicated fast!
Thanks for all the helpful info everyone! Just to clarify my understanding - so I can withdraw up to $10,000 TOTAL across both my Roth and traditional IRAs using the first-time homebuyer exemption, not $10k from each account. And with my Roth IRA, I can also take out all my contributions penalty-free anytime regardless of the exemption, which gives me more flexibility. One follow-up question - does the order matter? Like should I exhaust my Roth contributions first before using the $10k exemption on earnings? Or would it be smarter to use the exemption on my traditional IRA since those withdrawals would be taxable anyway? I'm trying to minimize my overall tax burden while maximizing what I can access for the down payment.
Great question about the order! Generally, it's most tax-efficient to withdraw Roth contributions first since they're always tax and penalty free. Then for the remaining funds you need, you'll want to compare the tax impact of using the $10k exemption on Roth earnings vs traditional IRA funds. With Roth earnings under the exemption, you avoid the 10% penalty but may still owe taxes if you haven't met both the 5-year rule AND the age 59½ requirement. With traditional IRA funds under the exemption, you avoid the 10% penalty but definitely owe income tax on the full amount. So if your Roth has satisfied the 5-year rule, using the exemption on Roth earnings would likely be more tax-efficient. But everyone's situation is different - factors like your current tax bracket, expected future income, and how much you have in each account type all matter. This might be worth running through a tax calculator or consulting with a tax professional to optimize your specific scenario.
Just wanted to add a practical tip from my recent home buying experience - if you're planning to use IRA funds for your down payment, make sure to coordinate the timing with your lender and closing date. I made the mistake of withdrawing the money too early and had to keep it in a savings account for 6 weeks, which actually complicated my mortgage application because lenders want to see "seasoned" funds. The 120-day rule gives you flexibility, but ideally you want to time the withdrawal so the funds hit your account close to when you'll need them for closing. Also keep detailed records of the withdrawal and home purchase - I saved copies of my IRA distribution form, the closing disclosure, and purchase contract just in case the IRS ever asks for documentation of the first-time homebuyer exemption. Good luck with your home purchase! The market is definitely challenging right now, but every bit of penalty-free access to your retirement funds helps with that down payment.
This is really helpful advice about timing! I hadn't thought about the "seasoned funds" issue with lenders. Quick question - when you say you had to keep the money in savings for 6 weeks and it complicated your application, did your lender ultimately accept it once you showed the paper trail? Or did you have to provide additional documentation to prove the source of funds was legitimate? I'm worried about creating unnecessary hurdles in an already stressful process.
PrinceJoe
I'm a nurse and see this issue come up with patients all the time. The rule I always tell them is: if you prepaid for a SPECIFIC procedure with a set date and service, it's deductible when paid. If you put money into a general account or prepaid without knowing exactly what services you'd get, you have to wait until you actually get the service. Also make sure the medical expense is actually deductible. Remember you can only deduct the amount that exceeds 7.5% of your AGI, and only if you itemize deductions instead of taking the standard deduction.
0 coins
Austin Leonard
ā¢That distinction makes a lot of sense, thank you! In my case, I paid for a specific procedure that was scheduled for the following year, so it sounds like I can deduct it on my 2022 taxes. And yes, even with this expense added, my medical costs will be about 9.2% of my AGI for 2022, so I should benefit from the deduction. I'm definitely itemizing because my mortgage interest and state taxes already put me well over the standard deduction amount.
0 coins
Brooklyn Knight
One thing nobody's mentioned - make sure you keep REALLY good documentation. I went through an audit for medical expenses and they wanted to see proof of when I paid AND when I received services. Save everything - receipts, appointment confirmations, insurance EOBs, etc. The IRS is being super picky about medical deductions lately.
0 coins
Owen Devar
ā¢Do credit card statements count as proof of payment date? I have a lot of medical expenses but didn't keep all the paper receipts.
0 coins
Malik Johnson
ā¢Credit card statements are definitely helpful as proof of payment date, but the IRS typically wants more detailed documentation too. You should try to get copies of the actual receipts or invoices from the medical providers if possible - most offices can reprint them even from previous years. The credit card statement shows you paid something on a certain date, but doesn't prove what specific medical service it was for. Having both the credit card statement AND the detailed receipt/invoice creates a much stronger paper trail if you ever get audited.
0 coins