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Ask the community...

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Does anyone remember when you could actually get paper savings bonds with your tax refund? I miss those days. My grandparents gave me paper bonds when I was a kid, and I liked continuing that tradition with my own kids using the tax refund option. Now everything's electronic and it just doesn't feel the same.

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Kara Yoshida

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You can still print out a certificate to give as a gift! TreasuryDirect has a gift option where you can create a nice-looking certificate that represents the electronic bond. I do this for my nieces and nephews - print it out and put it in a card. They still get excited about it.

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Avery Flores

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I'm really disappointed about this change too. I've been using the savings bond option for about 8 years as part of my financial planning strategy. It was such a simple way to automatically put away part of my refund before I could spend it on something unnecessary. What really bothers me is that they didn't give much advance notice about discontinuing the program. I only found out when I went to file my taxes this year and the option just wasn't there anymore. A heads up would have been nice so people could plan alternative savings strategies. I guess I'll have to look into setting up that TreasuryDirect account, but honestly the convenience factor was a big part of why I used this program in the first place. Now it's just another thing I have to remember to do manually.

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Gavin King

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Tip from someone who deals with this every year: Take screenshots or save PDFs of the historical stock prices for any noncovered securities you sell, especially if you're using stepped-up basis or had to research the original purchase price. Keep these files with your tax records. The IRS has been paying more attention to capital gains in recent years, and having documentation ready if you get questioned will save you massive headaches. I learned this the hard way after getting a CP2000 notice for some old stocks I sold.

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This is exactly the kind of confusion that trips up so many people! I went through the same thing last year with some old mutual fund shares. The key thing to remember is that "noncovered" literally means the IRS isn't getting that basis information from your broker, so it's 100% on you to report it correctly. One thing I'd add to the great advice already given - make sure you're consistent across all your noncovered securities. If you have multiple sales throughout the year, use the same method for calculating basis (FIFO, specific identification, etc.) and document your approach. The IRS wants to see consistency in your reporting methodology. Also, if you're using TurboTax, it should walk you through this step by step. When it asks about the noncovered securities, just make sure you're entering your actual basis, not necessarily what's printed on the 1099-B. The software will handle the rest and make sure it gets reported properly on your Schedule D and Form 8949.

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Jabari-Jo

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This is really helpful advice about being consistent with methodology! I'm curious - if I have some noncovered securities where I used FIFO method and others where I did specific identification (because I had records for some but not others), do I need to explain that somewhere on my return or just make sure each individual security uses one consistent method? Also, when you mention documenting the approach - is this something that goes on the actual tax forms or just something I keep in my personal records in case of questions later?

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GalaxyGazer

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Has anyone tried just using Google Drive or Dropbox instead of specialized tax document software? Seems like paying for fancy features might be overkill for a small practice?

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I tried the Google Drive route for two tax seasons and ultimately switched to specialized software. The main issues were security compliance (most free cloud storage doesn't meet IRS Pub 4557 requirements) and limited search capabilities. Basic cloud storage is fine for general documents, but when tax season hits and you need to quickly pull "all clients claiming child tax credits with income over $75K" or "everyone with 1099-NEC income who might benefit from an S-Corp election," specialized tax document systems pay for themselves immediately.

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As someone who recently went through this exact transition, I can't stress enough how much the right document management system will transform your practice. I was in your same situation last year - drowning in paper and basic cloud storage that was becoming a nightmare. One thing I wish I had considered earlier is the total cost of ownership beyond just the monthly subscription. Factor in training time, data migration, and potential productivity loss during the transition. I made the mistake of switching systems right before tax season and it was stressful, even though it worked out great in the long run. Also, whatever system you choose, make sure it has robust backup and disaster recovery features. I learned this the hard way when my old system had a sync issue that could have lost weeks of client uploads. Now I always ask about their backup protocols and how quickly they can restore data if something goes wrong. The investment is absolutely worth it though. My stress levels during tax season dropped dramatically once I could instantly find any document I needed instead of digging through folders. Good luck with your decision!

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This is such valuable advice! The timing aspect is really important - I'm already feeling overwhelmed and definitely don't want to add the stress of learning new software right when things get crazy. Can you share what specific backup features you look for now? I'm pretty tech-savvy but disaster recovery isn't something I've had to think much about before. Also, did you find any systems that offered migration help to transfer existing documents, or did you have to do that manually? Your point about total cost is spot on too. I was only looking at monthly fees but hadn't considered the time investment for setup and training.

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Rita Jacobs

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This is such a stressful situation, but you're definitely not alone in dealing with this! I went through something similar a few years ago when my tax preparer accidentally used outdated bank info from my previous return. One thing that really helped me was getting a copy of my tax transcript from the IRS website (irs.gov) - it shows exactly where your refund was sent and the status. You can access it immediately online with your SSN and some basic verification info. This gave me concrete details to reference when I called both the IRS and my tax prep company. Also, while you're waiting for everything to get sorted out, consider asking your tax preparer if they offer any kind of emergency assistance or advance on the refund amount since it was their error. Some of the larger chains have policies for situations like this, especially when it's clearly their mistake. At minimum, they should be covering any fees you incur because of their error. The good news is that your sister and cousin are right - the money will eventually come back to you, it's just a matter of time. Banks are required to reject deposits when the account name doesn't match, so it will bounce back to the IRS who will then issue a paper check. Hang in there!

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Miguel Diaz

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Thanks for mentioning the tax transcript - that's such a helpful tip! I didn't even know you could access that online immediately. For anyone else dealing with this, the transcript will show the exact routing and account numbers where your refund was sent, which is crucial evidence when you're trying to prove the error to both the IRS and your tax preparer. I'd also add that when you call the IRS, having that transcript in front of you makes the conversation so much more productive. The agents can see the same information you're looking at, and it eliminates any confusion about what actually happened. Plus, if there are any discrepancies between what your tax preparer filed and what you authorized, the transcript will show that clearly.

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I'm so sorry you're going through this stress! As someone who works in banking, I can confirm that when a refund is deposited to an account where the name doesn't match, the receiving bank is required to return those funds to the originating source (the IRS) within a specific timeframe - usually 1-3 business days after they catch the mismatch. The key thing is to document everything right now. Get a written statement from your tax preparer acknowledging their error, and file Form 3911 (Taxpayer Statement Regarding Refund) with the IRS to initiate a payment trace. This form officially starts the process of tracking where your refund went and getting it back to you. While waiting, also check if your state has a taxpayer advocate office - they can sometimes help expedite these cases when there's clear preparer error involved. The $3,800 amount definitely qualifies as a significant financial hardship situation that they take seriously. Most importantly, don't panic! I've seen dozens of these cases over the years and the money always gets returned eventually. The banking system has safeguards specifically to prevent people from keeping money that isn't theirs.

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IRA withdrawal strategy: Is maximizing current tax bracket always smart?

I'm approaching retirement and trying to figure out the best tax strategy for IRA withdrawals or Roth conversions. I've always heard financial advisors recommend "max out your current tax bracket if it's low," but I'm wondering if this advice has serious flaws in certain situations. Let me share my current numbers (rounded for simplicity): I'm earning about $135,000 in regular taxable income (wages, interest, etc.) and have around $188,000 in qualified dividends and long-term capital gains. I'm married filing jointly, and my marginal rate for regular income is 12%, though some LT investment gains are taxed at 15%, with about $12,500 subject to the Net Investment Income Tax (NIIT) at 3.8%. Looking at this, I initially thought: "Great! My marginal rate for regular income (which is how an IRA withdrawal would be taxed) is only 12%. I can withdraw $22,000 to fill up that 12% bracket without hitting the 22% bracket." But here's where it gets complicated: If I take that $22,000 withdrawal, it not only gets taxed at 12%, but it also pushes another $22,000 of my investment income from the 0% to the 15% capital gains rate, plus pushes more income into the NIIT territory. When I run the numbers, that $22,000 withdrawal actually costs me about $6,750 in taxes – roughly a 30.8% effective rate on that withdrawal, despite being in the "12% bracket." Am I missing something? Is the "max out your bracket" rule only smart in certain income ranges – not too low where investments are taxed at 0% (so nothing gets pushed to 15%) and not high enough to trigger NIIT? For example, if my regular income were $160,000 and qualified dividends were $125,000, I'd already be in the 22% bracket, so an IRA withdrawal would be taxed at 22% without any ripple effects on my other income. Should I just be grateful some investments are taxed at 0% and avoid IRA withdrawals in this situation? The traditional advice doesn't seem to make sense for my circumstances.

Libby Hassan

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Thanks everyone for the incredibly helpful advice! I'm going to look into both taxr.ai and potentially using Claimyr to confirm my specific situation with the IRS. I hadn't considered the expiring tax provisions after 2025 either, so that's another factor to weigh. I think I'll scale back my planned conversion amount this year to avoid the worst of these tax interactions, but still do a small conversion to chip away at future RMDs. The suggestions about timing conversions with charitable giving or higher deduction years make a lot of sense too. This has been eye-opening - clearly the standard advice to "fill up your bracket" is way too simplistic for many situations like mine. I'll definitely be running more detailed projections before making any moves.

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Great analysis! You've perfectly illustrated why cookie-cutter tax advice can be so dangerous. I'm a tax preparer and I see this all the time - clients come in having followed generic "fill your bracket" advice without understanding these cascading effects. One additional consideration for your situation: if you're still working and have access to a 401(k), you might want to maximize pre-tax contributions there first before doing any Roth conversions. This could lower your AGI enough to keep more of your qualified dividends in the 0% bracket, making future conversions more tax-efficient. Also, don't forget about the Medicare premium implications (IRMAA) if your modified AGI gets too high. Those can add another layer of "stealth taxes" that make conversions even more expensive than they appear on paper. The tax code has so many interconnections that proper planning really requires modeling your entire tax picture, not just looking at marginal brackets in isolation.

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Steven Adams

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This is exactly what I needed to hear! I'm still working and do have access to a 401(k), but I've been prioritizing the Roth conversions thinking they were more important. Your point about maximizing pre-tax contributions first to lower my AGI makes perfect sense - that could keep more of my dividends in the 0% bracket and make any future conversions much more efficient. I hadn't even thought about the Medicare IRMAA implications either. Do you know at what income levels those kick in? It sounds like I really need to model my entire tax situation rather than just focusing on one piece at a time.

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Aisha Khan

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For 2024, the Medicare IRMAA thresholds start at $103,000 for single filers and $206,000 for married filing jointly (based on your 2022 modified AGI). The surcharges can range from about $70 to over $400 per month per person, so they really add up quickly. What's tricky is that IRMAA uses your AGI from two years prior, so any large conversion you do this year won't affect your Medicare premiums until 2027. But it's definitely something to factor into your long-term planning, especially if you're close to those thresholds. Your strategy of maxing pre-tax 401(k) contributions first is spot on. Every dollar you put into your 401(k) reduces your current AGI, which could keep more of your qualified dividends at 0% and delay hitting IRMAA thresholds. Then you can do smaller, more strategic Roth conversions in future years when your earned income drops but before RMDs kick in. It's a complex puzzle, but getting it right can save tens of thousands over your retirement years.

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