Can't reach IRS? Claimyr connects you to a live IRS agent in minutes.
Claimyr is a pay-as-you-go service. We do not charge a recurring subscription.
Using Claimyr will:
- Connect you to a human agent at the IRS
- Skip the long phone menu
- Call the correct department
- Redial until on hold
- Forward a call to your phone with reduced hold time
- Give you free callbacks if the IRS drops your call
If I could give 10 stars I would
If I could give 10 stars I would If I could give 10 stars I would Such an amazing service so needed during the times when EDD almost never picks up Claimyr gets me on the phone with EDD every time without fail faster. A much needed service without Claimyr I would have never received the payment I needed to support me during my postpartum recovery. Thank you so much Claimyr!
Really made a difference
Really made a difference, save me time and energy from going to a local office for making the call.
Worth not wasting your time calling for hours.
Was a bit nervous or untrusting at first, but my calls went thru. First time the wait was a bit long but their customer chat line on their page was helpful and put me at ease that I would receive my call. Today my call dropped because of EDD and Claimyr heard my concern on the same chat and another call was made within the hour.
An incredibly helpful service
An incredibly helpful service! Got me connected to a CA EDD agent without major hassle (outside of EDD's agents dropping calls ā which Claimyr has free protection for). If you need to file a new claim and can't do it online, pay the $ to Claimyr to get the process started. Absolutely worth it!
Consistent,frustration free, quality Service.
Used this service a couple times now. Before I'd call 200 times in less than a weak frustrated as can be. But using claimyr with a couple hours of waiting i was on the line with an representative or on hold. Dropped a couple times but each reconnected not long after and was mission accomplished, thanks to Claimyr.
IT WORKS!! Not a scam!
I tried for weeks to get thru to EDD PFL program with no luck. I gave this a try thinking it may be a scam. OMG! It worked and They got thru within an hour and my claim is going to finally get paid!! I upgraded to the $60 call. Best $60 spent!
Ask the community...
- DO post questions about your issues.
- DO answer questions and support each other.
- DO post tips & tricks to help folks.
- DO NOT post call problems here - there is a support tab at the top for that :)
Join the conversation
Join the conversation
Has anyone considered the impact of the Clean Vehicle Credit if buying an electric SUV? I'm looking at a $110k electric SUV that qualifies as a heavy vehicle (over 6,000 lbs) AND potentially for the business clean vehicle credit. Seems like you might be able to stack that credit with the bonus depreciation for an even better tax situation in year 1.
Look into whether your specific electric SUV model qualifies under the new requirements. There are price caps ($80k for SUVs) and manufacturing requirements that might disqualify some higher-end models. But if you qualify, it's huge - could be up to $7,500 tax credit on top of the depreciation benefits. Check out the IRS's qualified vehicle list before making a purchase.
Thanks for the heads up about the price cap! I didn't realize there was an $80k limit for the credit on SUVs. I'll check the qualified vehicle list. My vehicle is manufactured in North America which I think is one of the requirements, but I need to look into the battery component requirements too.
Great discussion here! I wanted to add some important context about the IRS mileage method vs. actual expense method for those considering their options. If you're buying a $115k SUV and using it 100% for business, you have two choices: claim actual expenses (including depreciation as discussed above) or use the standard mileage rate. For 2025, the business mileage rate is 70 cents per mile. Here's the key thing many people miss - once you choose the actual expense method in the first year (which includes depreciation), you're locked into that method for the life of the vehicle. You can't switch to mileage later if it becomes more advantageous. However, if you start with the mileage method, you can potentially switch to actual expenses in later years. Given the high purchase price of your SUV, actual expenses will almost certainly be better in year 1, but it's worth running the numbers to see your total deductions over the vehicle's useful life. Also, don't forget that with the actual expense method, you can deduct other vehicle expenses like insurance, maintenance, repairs, registration fees, etc. - not just depreciation. This often makes the actual expense method even more valuable for expensive business vehicles.
Diego Vargas
ā¢This is really helpful context about the method choice! I'm new to business vehicle deductions and didn't realize you get locked into the actual expense method once you choose it. For someone just starting a business with a high-value vehicle like this, would you recommend always going with actual expenses from day one? Also, when you mention "other vehicle expenses" - does that include things like car washes and detailing if it's 100% business use?
Join the conversation
Random question - does anyone know if smart home devices (like Nest thermostats, smart locks, Ring doorbells) count as deductible expenses or depreciable assets for a vacation rental? I've been listing them as expenses but now I'm second-guessing myself.
Smart home devices like Nest thermostats, smart locks, and Ring doorbells would typically be considered depreciable assets, not immediate expenses. They have a useful life of more than one year and are considered improvements to the property. If each device costs under the de minimis threshold ($2,500 per item if you make the proper election), you could potentially deduct them immediately. However, since these are permanent fixtures that enhance the property value and have a multi-year lifespan, the proper treatment is generally to depreciate them - typically over a 5-7 year period depending on the specific item.
As someone who's been through this exact situation with my first rental property, I completely understand the overwhelm! You're absolutely right that the tax code doesn't give you the choice to just depreciate everything for convenience - trust me, I tried to argue that with my CPA too. One thing that really helped me was setting up a system for future purchases right away. I created a simple rule: anything over $300 that I expect to last more than a year gets photographed and goes in my "depreciation" folder, everything else goes in "expenses." It's not perfect, but it prevents the massive sorting nightmare you're dealing with now. For your current situation with all those mixed receipts, consider this a one-time painful lesson. Go through them systematically - maybe tackle one store at a time (all IKEA receipts first, then Home Depot, etc.). Create a simple spreadsheet with columns for: Date, Store, Item Description, Amount, and Category (Depreciate/Expense). The good news is that since you're carrying losses forward anyway, getting this organized now will really pay off in future years when the property becomes profitable. Plus, if you ever decide to sell, having proper depreciation records will save you major headaches with basis calculations.
Amara Chukwu
ā¢This is such great practical advice! I'm dealing with a similar situation with my first rental property and the $300 rule you mentioned seems like a really sensible threshold to use going forward. I'm curious though - when you say "anything I expect to last more than a year," how do you handle items that are borderline? Like, I bought some nice decorative lamps that cost $250 each. They'll probably last several years, but they're not exactly permanent fixtures. Do you depreciate those or expense them immediately? Also, did you end up using any specific software or app to track everything, or did you stick with spreadsheets? I'm trying to decide if it's worth investing in a rental property management tool or if I should keep it simple for now.
Join the conversation
Can I just add that if you're making decent profit through your LLC (like over $40k), you should seriously consider electing S-Corp status? I operated as a disregarded entity for 3 years and was paying wayyyy too much in self-employment taxes. When I switched to S-Corp, I started paying myself a reasonable salary and taking the rest as distributions, which aren't subject to SE tax. Saved almost $6,500 in taxes last year alone!
How complicated is it to switch to S-Corp status? Is it just filing a form or does it create a ton of additional paperwork and requirements?
Zainab Omar
ā¢To elect S-Corp status, you need to file Form 2553 with the IRS within 2 months and 15 days of the beginning of the tax year you want the election to take effect (or within that timeframe of forming your LLC). The additional requirements are definitely more complex than staying as a disregarded entity - you'll need to run payroll for yourself (with proper withholdings), file quarterly payroll tax returns (Form 941), issue yourself a W-2, and file a separate business tax return (Form 1120S) instead of just using Schedule C. You also have to be very careful about paying yourself a "reasonable salary" because the IRS scrutinizes S-Corps to make sure owners aren't trying to avoid payroll taxes by taking everything as distributions. But if you're making good profit, the SE tax savings can definitely make the extra paperwork worth it!
Emma Taylor
This is exactly the kind of confusion I had when I started my LLC! The good news is that you're overthinking this - the IRS has pretty clear default rules that work in your favor. Since you have a single-member LLC and never filed any election forms, you automatically have what's called "disregarded entity" status. This means for tax purposes, your LLC doesn't exist as a separate entity - all income and expenses flow directly through to your personal tax return via Schedule C. No Form 8832 needed unless you want to change this default classification. Most small business owners stick with disregarded entity status because it's simpler and avoids the complexity of corporate tax filings. Just make sure you're keeping good records of all business income and expenses throughout the year, and don't forget about self-employment taxes on your profits (Schedule SE). The IRS treats your LLC income as self-employment income, so you'll owe both income tax and SE tax on your net profit. You're definitely on the right track - just report everything on your personal return and you'll be fine!
Ryan Kim
ā¢This is so reassuring to hear from someone who went through the same thing! I've been losing sleep over this thinking I missed some critical deadline or form. The disregarded entity status sounds perfect for my situation since I'm just getting started and want to keep things simple. Quick question - when you mention keeping good records for Schedule C, do you have any recommendations for tracking business expenses? I've been pretty informal about it so far (just saving receipts in a shoebox basically) but I'm realizing I need to get more organized before tax time. Also, the self-employment tax piece is something I definitely need to research more. I had no idea that was separate from regular income tax!
StarStrider
ā¢For tracking business expenses, I'd highly recommend getting away from the shoebox method ASAP! I use QuickBooks Self-Employed which connects to my business bank account and automatically categorizes most expenses. You can also snap photos of receipts right in the app. Other good options are FreshBooks or even just a simple Excel spreadsheet if you want to keep it basic. The key categories you'll want to track for Schedule C include: office supplies, business meals (50% deductible), mileage, professional services, advertising, etc. Make sure you're only tracking legitimate business expenses - the IRS can get picky about mixed personal/business use items. And yes, self-employment tax is a big one that catches new LLC owners off guard! It's essentially the employer AND employee portion of Social Security and Medicare taxes (15.3% total) that you pay on your net business profit. Regular employees split this with their employer, but as self-employed, you pay both sides. The good news is you get to deduct half of it on your personal return, but you still need to budget for it quarterly if you're making decent profit.
Join the conversation
Jacob Lewis
I went through something very similar when I found $85k cash in my late father's workshop about two years ago. Here's what I learned from the process: First, don't panic about the CTR (Currency Transaction Report) - it's just paperwork the bank files for any cash transaction over $10k. It's not an investigation, just documentation. The key is being completely transparent about the source. What really helped me was gathering as much documentation as possible BEFORE going to the bank. I collected: - Old photos of my dad's business - Statements from family members who knew about his cash-saving habits - Any old business records or tax returns I could find - A timeline of when he likely accumulated the cash The bank was actually very understanding once I explained the situation clearly. They asked some standard questions about the source, I provided my documentation, and the deposit went smoothly. No red flags or additional scrutiny. One important thing: make sure you're clear on whether your grandfather's estate went through probate. If it did and this money wasn't included, you might need to work with an estate attorney to handle it properly before depositing. In my case, my dad's estate was still open, so we were able to add this as an asset. The good news is that inherited cash isn't taxable income to you at the federal level, though your state might have inheritance taxes depending on where you live. Feel free to ask if you have other questions - happy to share more details about my experience!
Omar Fawaz
ā¢This is really helpful, thank you! I'm curious about the timeline aspect you mentioned. How far back did you have to trace your dad's business activities? My grandfather's restaurant was sold in the late 80s/early 90s, so I'm worried I won't be able to find much documentation from that long ago. Did the bank accept your explanation even with gaps in the paper trail? Also, regarding the estate issue - my grandfather passed 8 years ago and I believe there was some kind of probate process, but honestly my parents handled everything and I wasn't really involved. Should I be asking them for those records before I do anything else?
Ali Anderson
ā¢Great question about the timeline and documentation! In my case, I only had to go back about 15 years, but the bank was surprisingly understanding about gaps in older records. What mattered more was having a coherent story that made sense, supported by whatever documentation I could find. For your grandfather's situation from the 80s/90s, you probably won't find much paperwork, but focus on what you can document: family testimony about his restaurant business, any old photos or records, maybe even immigration documents that show when he came to the US. The bank isn't expecting perfect records from 30+ years ago - they just need to satisfy their compliance requirements with reasonable documentation. Definitely get those probate records from your parents first! That's actually the most important step. If the estate was formally closed and this money wasn't included, you'll likely need to work with an estate attorney before the bank will even consider the deposit. Some states require reopening probate for discovered assets, while others have simpler procedures. But you need to know the status before moving forward. I'd suggest: 1) Get probate records, 2) Consult with an estate attorney about next steps, 3) Gather whatever documentation you can about your grandfather's business, then 4) approach the bank with everything organized. Much smoother process when you're prepared!
I'm dealing with a similar situation right now - found about $60k cash in my grandmother's house after she passed last month. Reading through all these responses has been really helpful, especially the advice about getting the estate documentation sorted first. One thing I wanted to add from my research so far: if you're worried about the bank asking difficult questions, it might help to call ahead and speak with a branch manager before bringing in the cash. I did this and they were able to walk me through exactly what documentation they'd need and what the process would look like. They even scheduled a private appointment so I wouldn't have to wait in line with a bag of cash. Also, regarding the Colombian business angle - you might want to check if your grandfather filed any FBAR (Foreign Bank Account Report) forms with the IRS back then. Even if he didn't have foreign accounts when he passed, those old filings could help establish the legitimate source of his savings from the business sale. The IRS keeps those records going back decades. The estate attorney consultation really seems like the right first step though. Better to spend a few hundred on legal advice upfront than deal with complications later.
That's really smart advice about calling the branch manager ahead of time! I never would have thought of that, but it makes total sense to avoid the awkwardness of showing up with a duffel bag of cash and having to explain everything to a teller. Did they ask you a lot of questions over the phone, or were they pretty understanding about the situation? The FBAR suggestion is interesting too - I have no idea if my grandfather would have filed those, but it's worth looking into. Do you know if there's a way to search for old FBAR records, or would I need to request them from the IRS directly? Given how long he's been gone, I'm not even sure what tax records my parents might still have from his time here. Thanks for sharing your experience - it's really helpful to hear from someone going through the same thing right now!
Daniela Rossi
Just wanted to add that when the IRS says you don't qualify for an OIC, that's often just their initial position. I was told the same thing but my tax pro was able to get an OIC accepted after providing additional documentation about my financial situation. The IRS uses a specific formula to determine OIC eligibility based on your income, expenses, assets, and ability to pay. If your financial circumstances have changed or if the initial assessment didn't capture your full situation, an OIC might still be possible.
0 coins
Ryan Kim
ā¢What kind of documentation helped you qualify for an OIC after initially being rejected? I'm in a similar situation and wondering what might help my case.
0 coins
Nia Jackson
I'm currently dealing with about $67K in tax debt myself, and this thread has been incredibly helpful. I've been going back and forth between hiring a resolution company or trying to handle it myself with the IRS. After reading everyone's experiences, I'm leaning toward trying the DIY approach first using some of the tools mentioned here. The taxr.ai service sounds promising for identifying any errors in my case, and the Claimyr service could help me actually get through to someone at the IRS without spending weeks on hold. @ApolloJackson - I'd love to hear updates on how your case progresses with the national company. Even if they can't get you an OIC, they might be able to negotiate penalty reductions or get you a favorable payment plan structure. The key seems to be holding them accountable for specific deliverables rather than vague promises. One question for the group: Has anyone had success getting penalty abatements on their own? I have reasonable cause for some of my late filings due to a medical emergency, but I'm not sure if it's worth trying to request abatement myself or if I need professional help for that.
0 coins
Maya Patel
ā¢@Nia Jackson - I ve'successfully gotten penalty abatements on my own for reasonable cause. The key is having good documentation for your medical emergency. You ll'want medical records, hospital bills, doctor s'statements about your condition and treatment timeline, anything that shows the emergency prevented you from handling your tax obligations. You can request penalty abatement by calling the IRS good (luck getting through without Claimyr! or) by writing a letter explaining your situation with supporting documentation. Form 843 is the official form for requesting abatement, but a detailed letter often works just as well. The IRS is actually pretty reasonable about medical emergencies if you can document that it directly prevented you from filing or paying on time. I got about $3,200 in penalties removed after providing documentation of my surgery and recovery period. Definitely worth trying yourself before paying someone else to do it.
0 coins