


Ask the community...
Has anyone used H&R Block's software for trust returns? Their website says they support Form 1041 but I can't find much feedback about how good it actually is compared to other options.
I tried H&R Block for a trust return last year and honestly wouldn't recommend it. Their interface is clearly designed primarily for personal returns, with the trust features feeling tacked on. I found it confusing to navigate between trust income and distributions to beneficiaries. TaxAct's trust return interface was much more intuitive in my experience. H&R Block might work if you have an extremely simple trust situation, but otherwise I'd look elsewhere.
Thanks for sharing your experience! That's really helpful to know. I'll look into TaxAct instead since my trust has multiple income sources and beneficiaries. Sounds like H&R Block isn't really optimized for anything beyond basic trust situations.
Another option to consider is FreeTaxUSA's Business edition - they do offer Form 1041 preparation for trust returns at a much lower cost than most accountants. I used it last year for a straightforward trust with investment income and it worked well. The interface isn't as polished as some of the dedicated trust software mentioned here, but it gets the job done and includes e-filing. Cost me around $40 total, which was definitely worth it to avoid the $500+ accountant fee. One thing I learned is that most trust returns are actually pretty straightforward if you take time to understand the basics. The key is figuring out whether income stays in the trust or gets distributed to beneficiaries, and the software helps walk you through those decisions. If your trust document is clear about income distribution terms, you should be able to handle it yourself with any of these software options.
This is really helpful! I hadn't even thought to look at FreeTaxUSA's business edition. $40 is so much more reasonable than what I was quoted by the accountant. Quick question - when you say the trust document needs to be clear about income distribution terms, what exactly should I be looking for? I have the trust document but I'm not sure I'd recognize the relevant sections that would affect the tax filing. Are there specific phrases or sections I should focus on?
I completely understand your frustration with Surgent - you're definitely not alone in this experience! The practice-question-only approach is like trying to learn piano by only playing scales without understanding music theory. Here's what I wish someone had told me when I was in your exact situation: **Essential Study Materials:** - **Gleim EA Review** - Their textbooks are comprehensive and actually explain the "why" behind tax rules. Worth every penny. - **Passkey EA Review** - Great alternative with clear explanations and practical examples - **IRS Publication 17** (Your Federal Income Tax) - Use this as your reference bible - **Circular 230** - Essential for understanding EA practice requirements **The study approach that actually works:** 1. Start with understanding concepts through textbooks BEFORE doing practice questions 2. Read one chapter thoroughly, take notes, make sure you understand the underlying principles 3. Reference the corresponding IRS publications for official language 4. THEN practice questions to test your understanding 5. When you get questions wrong, go back to learn WHY, not just what the right answer is **Free IRS resources to supplement:** - Publication 334 (Tax Guide for Small Business) - Publication 535 (Business Expenses) - Publication 225 (Farmer's Tax Guide) The fact that you want to actually understand the tax code rather than just memorize answers tells me you're going to be an excellent EA. Don't let Surgent's limitations discourage you - there are much better resources out there that will give you the solid foundation you're looking for. You're asking all the right questions. Stick with it!
@5344dbfc7382 Thank you so much for this comprehensive breakdown! Your piano analogy really hits home - I've been trying to play complex pieces without understanding the basic music theory behind them. I'm particularly interested in your point about using IRS publications as reference rather than primary learning materials. I think I was overwhelming myself trying to read through Publication 17 from start to finish instead of using it strategically alongside a proper textbook. Your step-by-step study approach makes so much sense, especially the emphasis on understanding WHY before moving to practice questions. I think I'm going to invest in Gleim based on all the recommendations in this thread and follow your suggested method. One quick question - when you mention taking notes while reading the textbooks, do you recommend handwritten notes or digital? I'm wondering if there's a particular note-taking approach that helps with retaining tax concepts better. Really appreciate the encouragement about wanting to understand rather than memorize. This thread has given me so much more confidence that I'm approaching this the right way, even if it means starting over with better materials!
I feel your pain with Surgent! I went through the exact same experience and felt like I was going crazy trying to understand why I wasn't "getting it" from just practice questions. After reading through all these great recommendations, I wanted to share what finally worked for me. The key breakthrough was realizing that the EA exam isn't just testing memorization - it's testing your ability to apply tax principles to real-world situations. You can't do that without understanding the underlying concepts first. **My recommended study sequence:** 1. **Start with Gleim EA Review textbooks** - Yes, they're expensive, but they actually teach you the material systematically 2. **Use IRS Publication 17 as your reference guide** - Don't try to read it cover to cover, but use it to look up specific topics as you study 3. **Master one topic completely before moving to the next** - Read the textbook chapter, understand the concepts, then do a few practice questions to test comprehension **What changed everything for me:** Instead of asking "What's the right answer?" I started asking "What tax principle is being tested here?" Once you understand the principles, the specific applications become much clearer. The fact that you want to actually understand the tax code shows you have exactly the right mindset to become a great EA. Don't let Surgent's approach make you doubt yourself - you're not the problem, the study method is. Invest in proper textbooks that actually teach the material, and you'll be amazed at how much more confident you feel going into the exam. Stick with it - understanding the material properly is worth the extra time and investment!
Great question! The explanation about purchase commissions being added to cost basis and selling commissions reducing proceeds is spot on. Just wanted to add a couple of practical tips from my experience: 1) If you use multiple brokers, make sure you're consistent in how you handle fees across all platforms. Some brokers are better at clearly showing commissions on their 1099-B forms than others. 2) Don't forget about transfer fees if you moved stocks between brokers - these can usually be added to your cost basis as well since they're directly related to acquiring the securities. 3) Keep digital copies of all your trade confirmations, not just the year-end summaries. The IRS loves documentation if they ever have questions about your cost basis calculations. One last thing - if you're doing a lot of trading, consider whether you might qualify as a "trader in securities" for tax purposes. The rules are different and might actually be more favorable depending on your situation. Worth researching if you're making frequent trades!
This is really helpful, especially the tip about transfer fees! I hadn't thought about those being added to cost basis. I actually transferred some positions from Robinhood to Fidelity last year and paid a $75 ACAT fee. So if I understand correctly, that $75 would get added to the cost basis of those transferred shares? Also, you mentioned "trader in securities" status - what's the threshold for that? I made about 200 trades last year but I have a day job, so I'm not sure if that would qualify me or if it would even be beneficial.
Yes, exactly! That $75 ACAT transfer fee would be added to the cost basis of the transferred shares. The IRS treats transfer fees as part of your acquisition costs since they're necessary expenses to obtain the securities. Regarding trader status, it's not just about number of trades - the IRS looks at four main factors: 1) frequency and regularity of trades, 2) whether trading is your primary income source, 3) time devoted to trading, and 4) whether you're seeking short-term profits. Since you have a day job, you'd probably be classified as an investor rather than a trader, which is actually fine - most people don't benefit from trader status anyway because you lose the ability to claim capital gains treatment (everything becomes ordinary income/loss). With 200 trades and a day job, you're likely better off staying with investor status and just making sure you're properly tracking all those commission adjustments!
This is such a common source of confusion! I went through the same thing when I started actively trading. One additional point that might help - if you're using a discount broker that charges per-share fees instead of flat commissions (like some do for penny stocks), those per-share fees work the same way. They get added to your cost basis on purchases and subtracted from proceeds on sales. Also, if you ever get into options trading, the same principle applies to options commissions and assignment/exercise fees. The key is always thinking about which side of the transaction the fee relates to - acquisition costs increase your basis, disposition costs reduce your proceeds. Keep good records throughout the year rather than trying to reconstruct everything at tax time. I learned that lesson the hard way my first year of serious trading!
Great advice about keeping records throughout the year! I'm just starting out with trading and this thread has been incredibly helpful. One quick question - when you mention per-share fees for penny stocks, does that mean if I bought 1000 shares at $0.50 each with a $0.005 per share fee, I'd add $5 (1000 Ć $0.005) to my cost basis of $500, making it $505 total? Just want to make sure I understand the math correctly before I start tracking everything properly.
I'm in my 3rd year of YouTube and my biggest mistake was mixing personal and business expenses at the beginning. For your sanity during tax season, get a separate card for YouTube purchases NOW, even if you're not making money yet. When tax time comes and you're trying to sort through hundreds of transactions to figure out which were for the channel... it's a nightmare. Trust me.
This!! I learned this the hard way too. What card do you recommend? Credit or debit? Any specific ones good for small YouTubers?
Great thread! As someone who's been through this exact journey, I want to emphasize something that saved me a lot of headaches: start treating it like a business from day one, even if you're not making money yet. Beyond what others have mentioned, here's what I wish I'd known: consider opening a business credit card (not just debit) for your YouTube expenses. Many business cards offer cash back on categories like office supplies, internet, and advertising - which are perfect for YouTubers. Plus, using credit responsibly helps build your business credit score for the future. Also, don't forget about the home office deduction if you're editing at home! Even if it's just a corner of your bedroom where you edit, you can potentially deduct that square footage. For 2025, you can use either the simplified method ($5 per square foot up to 300 sq ft) or calculate actual expenses. One last tip: start a simple spreadsheet or use an app to track everything monthly rather than waiting until tax season. I use a basic Google Sheet with columns for date, amount, category, and description. Takes 5 minutes a month but saves hours at tax time!
This is exactly the kind of comprehensive advice I was looking for! The business credit card suggestion is brilliant - I hadn't even considered the cash back benefits on categories that would directly apply to YouTube expenses. Quick question about the home office deduction: if I'm renting an apartment, can I still claim the simplified method even though I don't own the space? And does the editing area need to be exclusively used for YouTube, or can it be a shared space like my dining table where I sometimes eat but also do all my editing work? The monthly tracking spreadsheet idea is gold too. I'm definitely going to set that up before I even buy my first piece of equipment. Thanks for sharing your experience!
A Man D Mortal
Has anyone used TurboTax for reporting room rentals in their primary residence? I'm in a similar situation and wondering if I need to pay for their more expensive version or if the basic one will handle this correctly.
0 coins
Declan Ramirez
ā¢I tried using TurboTax Deluxe last year for my room rentals and it was a nightmare. You definitely need TurboTax Premier at minimum to handle rental properties properly. Even then, I found it confusing for my situation where I was renting out rooms in my main home rather than a separate property. Switched to FreeTaxUSA this year and it was way better for handling partial home rentals.
0 coins
Isabella Oliveira
Just wanted to share my experience as someone who's been renting out rooms in my house for about 3 years now. One thing I learned the hard way is to keep extremely detailed records of everything - not just the big renovations like your bathroom project, but also all the smaller maintenance items throughout the year. Things like replacing faucets, fixing leaky pipes, repainting rooms between tenants, etc. can really add up and many of these qualify as immediate repairs rather than improvements. For your $22k bathroom renovation, definitely work with a tax professional if you can afford it. The distinction between repairs and improvements can save you thousands. For example, if you're replacing a broken toilet, that's a repair. But if you're upgrading to a fancy new toilet when the old one worked fine, that's an improvement. Sometimes a single project can include both elements. Also, don't forget about the home office deduction if you use part of your house exclusively for managing your rental business - storing supplies, doing paperwork, meeting with potential tenants, etc. It's another deduction that many accidental landlords miss!
0 coins