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As someone who works in payroll administration, I can confirm that "FED MWT EE" is indeed federal income tax withholding - the "MWT" stands for "Mandatory Withholding Tax" and "EE" indicates it's the employee portion (as opposed to employer-paid taxes). What many people don't realize is that this amount is calculated using IRS Publication 15 tables based on your W-4 elections, pay frequency, and gross wages. If you're finding the amount too high for your budget, you absolutely can adjust it by filing a new W-4 with your employer's payroll department. Just be cautious about reducing it too much - you want to avoid owing a large sum at tax time plus potential underpayment penalties. One helpful tip: if you're struggling to understand all the deductions on your paystub, most payroll systems can generate a detailed breakdown report that explains each code. Don't hesitate to ask your HR or payroll team for this - it's a completely normal request and will help you better manage your finances going forward.
This is incredibly helpful information from someone who actually works with this stuff every day! I really appreciate the detailed explanation about Publication 15 tables - I had no idea there was an actual IRS publication that determines how much gets withheld. I think I'm going to take your advice and ask HR for that detailed breakdown report. I've been hesitant to bother them with questions that might seem basic, but you're right that it's a normal request. Better to understand what's happening with my money than to just accept these mysterious deductions forever. One quick question - when you mention "underpayment penalties," about how much under do you have to be before the IRS actually penalizes you? I don't want to accidentally cross that line if I do decide to adjust my W-4.
@49f22fed6b22 Great question! Generally, you'll avoid underpayment penalties if you either: 1) owe less than $1,000 when you file, or 2) pay at least 90% of the current year's tax liability, or 3) pay at least 100% of last year's tax liability (110% if your prior year AGI was over $150,000). The safest approach when adjusting your W-4 is to use the IRS withholding calculator I mentioned earlier - it factors in these penalty thresholds automatically. Most people can safely reduce their withholding somewhat without hitting penalty territory, especially if you're currently getting large refunds. And definitely don't feel bad about asking HR for help! We'd much rather answer questions upfront than deal with confused employees or incorrect withholdings later. Plus, understanding your paystub is basic financial literacy - it's actually smart that you're taking the time to figure this out early in your career.
This thread has been super educational! I work in tax preparation and see this confusion constantly during tax season. One thing I'd add is that if you're really unsure about your withholding amounts, consider doing a "paycheck checkup" quarterly rather than just annually. Life changes throughout the year - you might get a raise, start a side hustle, get married, or have other income sources that affect your tax situation. I always tell my clients to review their W-4 whenever they get a significant pay change or at least twice a year to make sure they're on track. Also, for those who are visual learners, your year-end W-2 will show your total federal income tax withheld in Box 2 - that's the sum of all those "FED MWT EE" deductions from your paychecks. Comparing that number to your actual tax liability on your return will tell you if you're withholding the right amount for your situation.
This is such valuable advice from a tax professional! I never thought about doing quarterly paycheck checkups - I was just planning to set my W-4 once and forget about it. But you're absolutely right that things change throughout the year. I'm actually expecting a raise in a few months, and I hadn't considered how that might affect my withholding situation. Would a pay increase automatically adjust my federal tax withholding proportionally, or would I need to update my W-4 again when my salary changes? I want to make sure I don't end up in a situation where I'm suddenly under-withholding after the raise kicks in. Also, thank you for the tip about checking Box 2 on the W-2 - I'll definitely keep that in mind when I file my taxes next year to see how accurate my withholding ended up being.
Thanks everyone for all the helpful advice! I ended up following Mateo's suggestion and entered my Box 1 amount into Box 18, and it worked perfectly. The tax software accepted it and I was able to complete my filing. For anyone else dealing with this issue - it really is as simple as copying your federal wages (Box 1) into the local wages field (Box 18) when it's left blank. Mei's explanation as a payroll specialist really helped confirm this was the right approach. I was so worried about entering something that wasn't explicitly printed on my W-2, but it turns out this is totally normal and expected. My return has already been accepted by the IRS, so I can confirm this solution works without causing any problems. Thanks again to this community for helping me get unstuck!
That's great to hear that everything worked out for you! I've been following this thread because I'm dealing with a similar situation with my W-2. My employer also left Box 18 completely blank, and like you, I was hesitant to enter anything that wasn't explicitly printed on the form. Reading through all the responses here, especially from Mei who works in payroll, really helped me understand that this is a normal occurrence. I'm going to go ahead and copy my Box 1 amount into Box 18 as well. Thanks for updating us with your successful outcome - it's reassuring to know the IRS accepted your return without any issues!
I'm dealing with a similar issue but with a twist - my W-2 has Box 18 blank AND Box 19 blank (no local taxes withheld at all). My tax software is still throwing an error when I try to leave both fields empty. Should I still enter my Box 1 amount in Box 18 even though there's no local withholding? I work in a state with no local income tax, so I'm not sure why the software is even asking for this information. Has anyone encountered this variation of the problem?
Don't forget about state penalties too! The federal underpayment penalty is one thing, but many states also charge their own penalties for missed estimated payments. Check your state tax requirements as soon as possible. In my experience, state penalties can sometimes be easier to get waived if you have a reasonable explanation. Many states have their own first-time abatement policies similar to the IRS.
Do you know if California has a first-time abatement program? I'm in the same boat as OP but worried about both federal and state penalties.
California doesn't have an official first-time abatement program like the IRS does. However, they do consider "reasonable cause" explanations for penalty relief. If you can demonstrate that you didn't understand the estimated tax requirements as a new self-employed taxpayer, they may reduce or waive the penalty. The best approach with California is to file on time, pay as much as you can with the return, and include a penalty abatement request letter explaining your situation. Be specific about why you didn't make estimated payments and emphasize that you've corrected your understanding for future tax years.
Something nobody mentioned yet - if you make a payment now before filing your return, it can reduce the penalty period! The underpayment penalty is calculated based on how long the money was late, so paying now stops the clock on additional penalties.
That's good to know! If I pay the full amount I estimate I owe before filing, will that completely stop additional penalties from accruing?
Yes, if you pay the full amount you owe before filing, it will stop additional penalties from accruing! The underpayment penalty is calculated from the due date of each quarterly payment through the date you actually pay. So making a payment now essentially caps your penalty at the current amount. Just make sure you're paying enough - if you underpay and still owe more when you file, penalties will continue on the remaining balance. It's better to slightly overpay now than to underpay and have penalties keep running. You can make estimated tax payments online through the IRS Direct Pay system or EFTPS. Just specify it's for the current tax year when you make the payment.
The IRS does not require individuals to file a zero return if your income is under the standard deduction. But as a tax preparer I often recommend filing anyway for 3 key reasons: 1) statute of limitations starts running when you file (protecting you from future audits), 2) establishes income history for loans/benefits, and 3) prevents the IRS from creating a substitute return for you (which never works in your favor).
That's really interesting about the substitute return thing - I had no idea the IRS would just create a return for you! Does that happen often? And what do you mean about the statute of limitations?
Substitute returns typically happen when the IRS receives income documents (like W-2s or 1099s) for you but you haven't filed. They're rare for people with truly zero income but can happen if there's any reported income they know about. The problem is the IRS only includes income, not deductions or credits you're entitled to, so you almost always end up with a higher tax bill. Regarding the statute of limitations, the IRS generally has 3 years from the date you file to audit your return. If you never file, there's no statute of limitations, meaning they could theoretically come back 10+ years later with questions. Filing starts that 3-year clock, even for a zero return, giving you protection and closure for that tax year.
Based on what you've described about your mom's situation, she's likely not legally required to file a federal return since she had no income and the art business resulted in a net loss rather than profit. However, I'd strongly recommend she file anyway for several important reasons. First, that $2,400 business loss could be valuable for future tax years. Business losses can be carried forward to offset income when she does start earning again, potentially saving her money down the road. But she needs to file this year to establish and document those losses. Second, filing creates a paper trail that can be helpful later for things like loan applications, benefit eligibility, or even just proving her income status for various programs. Many people don't realize how often you need to show tax returns as proof of income (or lack thereof). At 58 and single, she's definitely not required to file with zero income, but the potential benefits of filing likely outweigh the minimal effort involved. You might also want to check if she qualifies for any refundable credits - sometimes people with little to no income can still get credits that result in refunds. The good news is that a zero-income return is typically very straightforward to file, and many free filing options are available for her income level.
This is such helpful advice! I really appreciate you breaking down the business loss carryforward thing - I had no idea that was even possible. The part about creating a paper trail makes total sense too, especially after reading about other people's experiences with loans and stuff. One quick follow-up question: when you mention "free filing options for her income level," do you know what the income threshold is for those programs? And would the art business expenses complicate things even if she uses free filing software? I'm just trying to figure out if this is something we can handle ourselves or if we need to find a tax preparer. Thanks again for such a thorough explanation!
Aisha Mohammed
5 One more thing to consider is the new reporting requirements from payment processors. Starting in 2023, platforms like PayPal, Venmo, and eBay are required to send 1099-K forms for anyone with more than $600 in annual transactions. This doesn't change what's taxable (selling personal items at a loss still isn't taxable income), but it does mean you might receive a 1099-K that includes BOTH your business sales AND personal item sales if you use the same account. When you get that form, you'll need to reconcile it on your tax return - reporting your business income on Schedule C while explaining that a portion of the 1099-K amount was from non-taxable personal item sales.
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Aisha Mohammed
ā¢1 Oh crap, I didn't know about the $600 reporting threshold! I definitely sold more than that in personal stuff this year clearing out my apartment. How exactly do you "explain" on your tax return that some of it wasn't taxable? Is there a specific form?
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Brandon Parker
ā¢You don't need a specific form to explain the difference! When you receive a 1099-K that includes both business and personal sales, you report your actual business income on Schedule C as usual. Then, if there's a discrepancy between what's on the 1099-K and what you're reporting as business income, you can attach a statement explaining that a portion was from non-taxable personal item sales. Many tax software programs now have built-in fields to help reconcile 1099-K forms that include mixed transaction types. The key is keeping good records showing which sales were business inventory vs personal items, especially if you're using the same PayPal or eBay account for both. The IRS is aware that these 1099-K forms often include non-taxable transactions, so they're not expecting every dollar on the form to be reported as income. Just be prepared to explain the difference if asked!
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Carmen Diaz
Just to add another perspective - I've been dealing with this exact situation for three years now. One thing that really helped me was setting up completely separate PayPal/eBay accounts for business vs personal sales from the start. My business account handles all the inventory I buy specifically to resell, and my personal account is just for clearing out stuff around the house. When tax time comes, I get separate 1099-K forms and it makes everything so much cleaner to track. If you're already mixing them on the same account, it's not too late to separate going forward. The documentation headache of proving what was personal vs business gets much easier when you can just point to different accounts. Plus it makes your bookkeeping way simpler throughout the year. Also, for those vintage collectibles that might have appreciated - take photos and do a little research on sold listings before you price them. You might be surprised what some of that old stuff is worth, and it's better to know upfront if you're looking at a potential capital gain situation.
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CosmicCadet
ā¢That's really smart advice about separating the accounts! I wish I had thought of that from the beginning. I'm definitely going to set up a separate personal account going forward - dealing with one mixed 1099-K this year was confusing enough. Quick question though - if I switch to separate accounts now, do I need to tell the IRS about the change somehow? Or do I just start using the new setup and it'll be obvious from next year's forms that they're separate activities? Also totally agree about researching values first. I almost sold some old Pokemon cards for like $20 before discovering they were worth way more. Would have been a nasty surprise at tax time if I hadn't checked!
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