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I've been following this discussion closely as I'm dealing with my own IRC 1341 situation. My former employer accidentally included me in a retention bonus payout in late 2022 even though I had already given notice and wasn't eligible. I had to repay $4,800 in 2023. Reading through everyone's experiences, I think I made some mistakes in my initial filing. I claimed the credit but didn't use the specific "claim of right" terminology that Chad mentioned, and my employer documentation just says "bonus repayment required" rather than clearly establishing it was paid in error. What really strikes me from this thread is how important the exact language seems to be with the IRS on this relatively uncommon credit. I'm planning to file an amended return using the specific terminology and documentation approach that several people have outlined. One thing I'm curious about - has anyone dealt with a situation where the original payment was a bonus rather than regular salary? I'm wondering if there are any special considerations for bonus repayments under IRC 1341, or if the same rules apply regardless of the type of compensation that was overpaid. Thanks to everyone for sharing such detailed experiences - it's incredibly helpful to see what actually works with the IRS rather than just the general guidance in the publications!

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Isabella Silva

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I actually dealt with a bonus repayment situation under IRC 1341 about two years ago! The same rules generally apply regardless of whether it's salary, bonus, or other compensation - the key is establishing that you received the payment "under a claim of right" and later had to repay it when it was determined you weren't entitled to it. For bonus situations, you might actually have an easier time with the documentation since bonus eligibility requirements are usually more clearly defined in company policies. I'd suggest asking your employer for a letter that specifically references their bonus policy and states that you "were not eligible under company policy" and the payment was "made in error." This helps establish the legal basis for why you had no right to retain the money. The retention bonus angle actually strengthens your case since there are usually specific employment status requirements for those payments. If you can get documentation showing you had already given notice before the bonus criteria period, that clearly demonstrates the payment was erroneous. You're smart to amend using the proper terminology - I made similar mistakes initially and the difference in IRS response was night and day once I resubmitted with the "claim of right" language and proper IRC 1341 references. Good luck!

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Max Reyes

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I've been dealing with a similar IRC 1341 situation and wanted to share what I've learned from working through it. My company accidentally continued my health insurance reimbursements for 4 months after I switched to my spouse's plan, totaling about $2,400 that I had to repay in 2024. What really helped me was following the documentation approach outlined in this thread. I made sure to get a letter from my employer's benefits department that specifically stated the reimbursements were "erroneously made under a claim of right" and that I "had no legal entitlement to receive these payments after changing coverage." The IRC 1341 calculation showed Method 2 would save me about $350 more than just taking a deduction, since I was in the 24% bracket when I received the payments but only 22% in the repayment year. One tip I'd add to what others have shared - if you're dealing with benefits overpayments rather than salary, make sure your employer documentation clearly references the specific policy that was violated. In my case, having the benefits administrator cite the exact section of our health plan that prohibited double coverage really helped establish that the original payments were made in error rather than just being a voluntary repayment. The IRS accepted my credit without additional questions when I used the specific terminology everyone here has recommended. This thread was incredibly valuable for understanding how to properly document and present an IRC 1341 claim!

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This is really helpful information about benefits overpayments! I hadn't considered that the specific policy violation language could be so important. Your point about referencing the exact section of the health plan is brilliant - it creates a clear paper trail showing why the payments were erroneous rather than just discretionary. I'm curious about the tax bracket difference you mentioned (24% down to 22%). Even though that's a smaller spread than some of the other cases discussed here, you still came out $350 ahead with Method 2. That really demonstrates how the IRC 1341 credit can be beneficial even when the bracket difference isn't dramatic. For anyone else dealing with benefits-related repayments, Max's approach of getting the benefits administrator involved (rather than just HR or payroll) makes a lot of sense. They're more likely to understand the specific policy language needed to properly document why the payments were made in error. Thanks for sharing your experience - it's great to see another successful resolution using the documentation strategies discussed in this thread!

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Jacob Lewis

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This situation is definitely not normal, and your instincts are right to be concerned. As a W-2 employee, you should absolutely have access to your employer's EIN - it's required information for your tax filing. A few immediate steps I'd suggest: **First, determine your actual employment status.** If you're truly a W-2 employee, the EIN should be on your paystubs, and you should receive a W-2 by January 31st. The fact that it's missing from your paystubs and your employer is being evasive suggests you might actually be classified as a 1099 contractor, even if that wasn't made clear to you initially. **Document everything now.** Save all your paystubs, screenshot your direct deposits, and keep records of these conversations with your employer. If this turns into an IRS issue, you'll need proof of your employment and income. **Give them one final deadline.** Send a polite but firm email requesting your W-2 (if you're an employee) or 1099 (if you're a contractor) by the legal deadline of January 31st. This creates a paper trail. **Know your backup options.** If they don't provide proper documentation, the IRS can help you file Form 4852 (substitute W-2) or guide you through filing as a contractor. Don't let their non-compliance prevent you from filing your taxes properly. The bottom line is that legitimate employers don't behave this way. Whether there's intentional tax evasion or just poor record-keeping, you need to protect yourself and ensure you're filing correctly with the IRS.

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Yara Khoury

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This is really comprehensive advice, Jacob. The point about determining actual employment status first is crucial - I've seen so many people get caught off guard when they think they're W-2 employees but are actually being treated as contractors. @Skylar Neal - One thing that might help clarify your situation: look at how much control your employer has over your work. Do they set your schedule, tell you exactly how to do tasks, provide equipment, and restrict you from working elsewhere? If yes, you re'probably misclassified as a contractor when you should be an employee. If you have more freedom in how/when you work, you might legitimately be a contractor. The email documentation Jacob mentioned is spot-on. I d'also suggest keeping a simple log of when you ve'asked for this information and what responses you got. Even if it s'just Boss "avoided me again when I brought up W-2 -" dates and details matter if this escalates. Don t'let them make you feel like you re'being difficult. Getting proper tax documentation is your right, not a favor they re'doing you.

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Jace Caspullo

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This is a concerning situation that unfortunately indicates your employer may not be handling payroll taxes properly. The EIN (Employer Identification Number) should definitely be visible on your paystubs if you're a legitimate W-2 employee - there's no valid reason to hide this information. Here's what I'd recommend doing immediately: **Check your actual employment classification.** The fact that there's no EIN on your paystubs and your employer is being evasive suggests you might actually be classified as a 1099 independent contractor rather than a W-2 employee, even if this wasn't clearly communicated to you when you were hired. **Gather all documentation now.** Save every paystub, screenshot your direct deposits, and keep records of all conversations about this issue. If you need to involve the IRS later, having this documentation will be crucial. **Send one final written request.** Email your employer requesting your proper tax forms (W-2 if you're an employee, 1099-NEC if you're a contractor) by the January 31st deadline. Be professional but clear that you need this to file your taxes legally. **Know your options if they don't comply.** The IRS has procedures for situations like this. You can file Form 4852 (Substitute for Form W-2) if you're supposed to be getting a W-2, or they can help guide you through proper filing as a contractor. Don't let their unprofessional behavior prevent you from filing your taxes correctly. The IRS deals with uncooperative employers regularly and has systems in place to help employees in your situation.

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Isaiah Cross

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This is excellent advice, and I really appreciate how you've broken down the steps so clearly. I'm actually in my first year of working full-time and had no idea about a lot of this stuff. The point about checking my actual classification really hit home - looking back, I realize I never got any formal paperwork saying I was a W-2 employee. My boss just said "you'll be on payroll" when she hired me, but now I'm wondering if that actually meant something different than what I assumed. I'm definitely going to send that email request this week. Do you think I should mention anything about the IRS procedures in the email, or would that come across as too threatening? I don't want to make the situation worse, but I also need to get this resolved. Thanks for the reality check about not letting their behavior prevent proper filing - I was honestly starting to worry that maybe I was being too pushy about this.

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James Johnson

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Whatever approach you take, make sure you keep ALL documentation! Keep copies of: 1) Your original SSA-1099 2) Bank statements showing the lump sum coming in 3) The payment to the disability insurance company 4) The contract with the disability company requiring repayment 5) Any correspondence with SSA or the insurance company I learned this the hard way when I had a similar situation in 2021 and got a letter from the IRS. Having all my documentation ready made resolving the issue much easier.

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Would regular bank statements be sufficient or would they need more specific proof of the repayment to the insurance company? I'm wondering if a letter from the insurance company acknowledging receipt would also be helpful.

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Javier Cruz

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I'm dealing with almost the exact same situation right now! My husband just got approved for SSDI after 3 years on private LTD, and we're facing that massive lump sum with most of it going back to the insurance company. One thing I wanted to add that hasn't been mentioned yet - make sure you understand the timing of when you need to report this. Since SSDI backpay can cover multiple tax years, you might be able to use the "lump sum election" under Section 86(e) to calculate the tax as if you had received the payments in the years they were actually for, rather than all in the year you received them. This could potentially lower your overall tax burden, especially if it pushes you into higher tax brackets. You'd use Form SSA-1099 along with Form 1040 and possibly need to file amended returns for prior years. It's complex, but could save you significant money if the backpay covers multiple years and would have been taxed at lower rates if received when originally due. Definitely recommend getting professional help for this - the interaction between SSDI taxation, subrogation payments, and lump sum elections is not something most general tax preparers are familiar with.

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This is really helpful information about the lump sum election! I hadn't heard of Section 86(e) before. Can you clarify how this would work with the subrogation payments though? If we use the lump sum election to spread the SSDI backpay across multiple years, would we also need to split the repayment deduction across those same years proportionally? Also, when you mention filing amended returns for prior years - would that be necessary even if we elect to calculate the tax as if received in prior years, or is there a way to handle it all on the current year return? I'm trying to understand if this approach would make our tax situation more complicated or actually simplify it in the long run.

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Has anyone used cost segregation for a newly constructed single-family rental? I'm building a rental property and wondering if I should track construction costs by category from the beginning instead of doing a study later.

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Absolutely track everything separately during construction! This is the ideal scenario. Have your contractor break out costs for electrical, plumbing, HVAC, flooring, cabinetry, etc. on their invoices. I made the mistake of not doing this with my new build and ended up paying for a cost segregation study anyway because the lump sum contractor price didn't give me the detail needed for tax purposes. Save yourself the $3k+ for the study and just document properly from the start.

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Thanks for the advice! I'll talk to my contractor about providing itemized invoices for everything. Should I also be taking photos during different construction phases to document what's going into walls and floors before they're covered up?

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Yes, absolutely document with photos during construction! Take detailed pictures of electrical runs, plumbing rough-ins, HVAC ductwork, and specialty systems before drywall goes up. This visual documentation becomes invaluable for supporting your depreciation categories later. I'd also recommend keeping a detailed construction log noting dates and costs for each phase. When you install items like built-in appliances, custom lighting, or specialty flooring, photograph the installation process and keep all receipts with model numbers and specifications. One thing I learned the hard way - make sure your contractor understands you need separate line items for things like cabinet hardware, countertop installation, electrical fixtures, and flooring materials versus labor. The IRS likes to see clear distinctions between what qualifies for accelerated depreciation versus what's considered part of the building structure. Your future self (and your tax preparer) will thank you for this level of documentation. It's so much easier than trying to reconstruct everything after the fact!

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This is incredibly helpful advice! I'm also planning a rental property build and hadn't thought about the level of detail needed for documentation. Quick question - when you mention "specialty systems," what exactly falls into that category? I'm planning to install a smart home system with automated lighting and climate controls. Would those components qualify for accelerated depreciation, and how should I document them separately from the basic electrical work?

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Kinda silly question but does the price of the tote matter? Like if I spent $800 on a designer work bag, can I still deduct the whole thing or will the IRS be like "you could've bought a cheaper bag"?

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The IRS doesn't have specific price limits for business expenses, but they do look for "ordinary and necessary" expenses. An $800 bag wouldn't automatically be disallowed, but it might raise more questions than a $350 one. If you're in a profession where appearance matters (like high-end real estate, luxury sales, etc.) and meeting with premium clients, you could make a stronger case for an expensive designer bag being "ordinary and necessary" for your specific business. The key is whether the expense is reasonable for your particular industry and business needs, not just an arbitrary price point.

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Amara Okafor

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Great question! I'm also relatively new to 1099 work and had similar concerns about what I could deduct. One thing that helped me was keeping a simple business expense log where I write down the date, amount, and business purpose for each purchase. For your tote bag situation, I'd suggest writing something like "Professional tote bag - exclusively used for transporting laptop, client documents, and business materials to meetings and co-working space." This creates a clear paper trail showing business intent. Also, don't worry about it being from Mercari - the IRS cares about the business purpose, not the retailer. Just make sure you have that receipt/purchase confirmation saved somewhere safe. Since you're under the $2,500 threshold, you can deduct it all in one year instead of depreciating it, which makes your taxes simpler too.

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This is exactly the kind of practical advice I was looking for! I love the idea of keeping a business expense log with the purpose written out clearly. That seems like it would make tax filing so much easier and give me peace of mind if I ever get audited. Quick follow-up question - do you use any particular app or system for tracking expenses, or just a simple spreadsheet? I'm trying to get organized from the start since this is all new to me. And thanks for the reassurance about the Mercari purchase - I was definitely overthinking that part!

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