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I've been dealing with this exact issue for weeks now! After reading through all these suggestions, I decided to try the IRS transcript route first since it's free. I was able to get my tax return transcript online immediately through the IRS website - it took about 10 minutes to verify my identity and download the PDF. While it doesn't look exactly like the original H&R Block return, it shows all the key information including my Schedule C business income and expenses. I called my mortgage lender to ask if this would work for their requirements and they said yes, as long as it's the official IRS transcript. Saved me from having to pay for third-party services or file BBB complaints. Sometimes the simplest solution really is the best one! For anyone else in this situation, definitely try the IRS route first before going through more complicated steps.
That's really helpful to know! I'm glad the IRS transcript route worked for your mortgage lender. I've been hesitant to try it because I wasn't sure if it would have enough detail, but hearing that it included your Schedule C information gives me confidence. Did you have any trouble with the identity verification process on the IRS website? I've heard some people get stuck there if they don't have certain types of credit history or accounts.
I went through something very similar with my 2019 returns from H&R Block! What ended up working for me was contacting H&R Block through their Twitter support (@HRBlock). I know it sounds odd, but their social media team seems to have more access to escalate issues than the regular phone support. I sent them a direct message explaining that I couldn't access my 2019 returns despite being able to see all other years, and they responded within a few hours asking for my account details. Within 24 hours, they had someone from their technical team email me the complete returns as PDFs. The Twitter support route bypassed all the phone hold times and actually got me connected with people who could solve the problem rather than just transfer me around. Worth trying if you're still having issues - sometimes these companies are more responsive on social media where problems are visible to other customers.
You might want to check if you qualified for any partial Roth contribution during those years instead of assuming you couldn't contribute anything. The income limits have a phaseout range where you can make reduced contributions. For 2017, the phaseout for single filers was between $118,000-$133,000. Unless you were completely above the upper threshold, you might have been eligible to contribute something.
Omg thank you for pointing this out! I just checked my 2017 tax return and my MAGI was around $129,000 which means I was in the phaseout range. So I would have been eligible for a partial contribution. Does that change how I handle this situation? Do I only need to remove part of each year's contribution?
Yes, this changes everything for those years! If you were in the phaseout range, you need to calculate your maximum allowable contribution for each year based on your specific MAGI. The formula is a bit complex, but basically you take the maximum contribution limit minus a reduction based on how far into the phaseout range you were. For 2017 with a $129,000 MAGI, you'd calculate: $5,500 - (($129,000 - $118,000) / ($133,000 - $118,000)) Ć $5,500. That works out to about $1,433 you were allowed to contribute. So you'd only need to remove the excess amount above that ($4,067) rather than the full $5,500. You'll need to do this calculation for each year you were in the phaseout range. This could save you significant penalties and taxes on the removal of contributions that were actually legitimate!
This is a really helpful thread! I'm dealing with a similar situation but from 2020-2022. One thing I learned from my tax preparer is that you should also check if your employer offers a 401(k) - if you have workplace retirement coverage, it can affect your ability to deduct Traditional IRA contributions, which impacts the backdoor Roth strategy that people mentioned. Also, make sure to keep detailed records of everything when you're going through the correction process. The IRS may ask for documentation years later, and having your Form 5329s, withdrawal confirmations from Vanguard, and calculation worksheets all organized will save you major headaches if they ever audit this. One last tip - if you end up owing multiple years of the 6% excise tax, you can sometimes set up a payment plan with the IRS rather than paying it all at once. Just call them (or use that Claimyr service others mentioned) to discuss options.
This is really solid advice, especially about the documentation! I learned this the hard way when I had to deal with an IRS inquiry about my retirement accounts a few years back. Having everything organized made the difference between a quick resolution and months of back-and-forth. The point about 401(k) coverage affecting Traditional IRA deductibility is crucial too. A lot of people don't realize that even if you don't contribute to your workplace 401(k), just having access to one can limit your ability to deduct Traditional IRA contributions if you're above certain income thresholds. This definitely impacts the backdoor Roth strategy since you want non-deductible Traditional IRA contributions to avoid the pro-rata rule complications. @Luca Bianchi - do you happen to know if the IRS payment plan option applies to the 6% excise tax specifically, or just general tax debt? I ve'been wondering about this for my own situation.
Great advice from everyone here! Just to add another perspective - if you're still having trouble with all the suggested methods, you might want to try calling the IRS Practitioner Priority Line if your accountant is willing to call on your behalf. The wait times are usually much shorter than the regular business line. Also, for future reference, it's worth setting up that IRS Business Account mentioned earlier even if you don't need it right now. Having it ready can save you a lot of headaches when you need documents quickly for loan applications or other business needs. The verification process can take a few days, so it's better to do it when you're not under pressure. Hope you get your 940 form sorted out for your PPP application!
Thanks for mentioning the Practitioner Priority Line! I didn't know that was an option. My accountant has been super busy but might be willing to make that call if the wait times are really shorter. Do you know if there are any specific requirements for them to use that line, or can any tax preparer access it? Also appreciate the tip about setting up the IRS Business Account ahead of time. I'm definitely going to do that once I get through this current situation - seems like it could save a lot of stress down the road.
I went through this exact same situation a few months ago when I needed my 940 for an SBA loan application. After trying everything mentioned here, what ultimately worked fastest for me was a combination approach: First, I searched my emails like CosmicCrusader suggested and found the e-filing confirmation from my accountant, but it only had a summary - not the complete form with signatures that my lender required. Then I tried the IRS Business Account route that Natasha mentioned. The transcript was helpful but again, my lender specifically wanted the actual filed form. What saved me was calling my accountant's office and asking to speak with whoever handles client document requests, even if my main contact was unavailable. They were able to pull the complete filed form from their system within 10 minutes and email it to me. For anyone in this situation: be persistent with your tax preparer's office - they almost certainly have the documents you need and can provide them much faster than any IRS process. If your main contact isn't available, ask for someone else who can access the files. Most offices have multiple people who can handle these requests. The key is explaining it's for a time-sensitive loan application - that usually gets you prioritized even when they're swamped.
This is really helpful advice! I'm dealing with a similar situation right now and hadn't thought about asking for someone else at the accountant's office. My main contact has been completely unresponsive for two weeks, but you're right that there are probably other people there who can access the files. I'm curious - when you explained it was for a time-sensitive loan application, did you have to provide any documentation to prove the urgency, or did they just take your word for it? I'm worried about seeming pushy, but I really do need these documents ASAP for my application deadline. Also, when they emailed you the form, was it the exact same document that was filed with the IRS including all signatures, or was it a copy from their system? Just want to make sure it would meet my lender's requirements before I go this route.
This is definitely a split payment situation - totally normal for amended returns! I went through the same thing with my 2023 amendment. The IRS processed my basic refund first, then sent a separate payment for the Earned Income Tax Credit about two weeks later. The letter you received likely breaks down exactly what the second payment covers. If you add $4,092 + $3,809 = $7,901, which is pretty close to your expected $8,000 (the small difference might be interest or a minor calculation adjustment). I'd suggest checking your online IRS account transcript to confirm both payments are showing up there - that'll give you the complete picture of how they processed your amendment.
This is really helpful! I'm actually going through something similar right now with my 2023 amended return. Just got my first payment last month and was wondering if there would be more coming. Your math breakdown makes total sense - $7,901 is definitely close to what OP was expecting. Quick question though - when you checked your transcript, did both payments show up immediately or did the second one take a while to appear online? I'm trying to figure out the timing for my own situation.
This sounds exactly like what happened to me with my 2023 amended return! I received my first payment of $3,247 in early February, then got a letter about three weeks later notifying me of an additional $2,891 refund. The IRS agent I spoke with explained that they often process the "straightforward" tax adjustments first (like corrected income or deduction changes), then handle the more complex refundable credits in a separate batch. In my case, the second payment was specifically for the Additional Child Tax Credit that I had claimed on my amendment. The letter should clearly state what portion of your amendment the $3,809 covers - probably a specific credit like CTC, EITC, or ACTC. Your total of $7,901 is very close to your expected $8,000, so this definitely looks legitimate rather than an error!
This is exactly what I needed to hear! I'm dealing with a very similar situation right now - got my first amended return payment two weeks ago and just received a letter yesterday about additional funds coming. Your breakdown about the IRS processing "straightforward" adjustments first versus complex credits separately makes so much sense. I was starting to worry there was some kind of error, but hearing that your timeline and amounts were so similar to what OP is experiencing really puts my mind at ease. Did you have to do anything special to receive the second payment, or did it just automatically process after the letter was sent?
Elin Robinson
I'm dealing with a similar situation right now - built my house in 2016 as owner-builder and sold it last year. The IRS is questioning my cost basis too. Reading through everyone's experiences here has been incredibly helpful and reassuring. What I'm finding most encouraging is hearing from the former IRS employee that they don't expect perfect documentation for older transactions, especially primary residences. I've been losing sleep over this thinking I needed every single receipt from 8 years ago. I do have my detailed construction spreadsheet that I maintained throughout the build process, plus most of my building permits and the original construction loan paperwork. Based on what everyone is sharing here, it sounds like this should be sufficient documentation along with a clear explanation letter. One question for those who have successfully resolved this - did any of you include photos of the construction process as part of your documentation package? I have hundreds of progress photos from the build and I'm wondering if those would be helpful as supporting evidence or if they're unnecessary. Also, for the timeline - how long did it typically take to hear back from the IRS after you submitted your response? I know I need to respond within the timeframe they specified, but I'm curious about how long the resolution process took for others.
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Carmen Reyes
ā¢I included construction progress photos in my documentation package and I think they actually helped quite a bit! The photos showed the scope of work being done and helped validate the costs I was claiming in my spreadsheet. I organized them chronologically and included brief captions explaining what stage of construction was shown. For timeline, I heard back from the IRS about 6 weeks after submitting my response. They sent a letter stating they accepted my documentation and closed the case with no additional tax owed. The key was responding well before their deadline - I submitted everything about 2 weeks after receiving their initial notice. Your situation sounds very similar to what I went through, and based on what you have (detailed spreadsheet, permits, loan docs), you should be in good shape. Just make sure your response letter clearly explains that this was your primary residence and the gain falls within the exclusion limit. The IRS really does understand that owner-builders from 8 years ago don't have perfect receipt records.
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Sean O'Connor
I went through something very similar when I sold my primary residence that I built as an owner-builder in 2017. The IRS sent me that same scary letter claiming the entire sale price was taxable income, and I panicked because I had lost about 60% of my receipts over the years. Here's what I learned that might help: Your detailed spreadsheet from the construction period is actually your strongest piece of evidence. The IRS values contemporaneous records - meaning records you created at the time, not after the fact. Since you tracked everything during construction, that carries significant weight. I supplemented my spreadsheet with whatever I could find: bank statements showing large withdrawals that matched my spreadsheet entries, the original construction loan documents, building permits, property insurance documentation showing replacement value, and even my final inspection certificate from the county. The key was writing a comprehensive response letter that explained my situation clearly: this was my primary residence, I was the general contractor, I maintained detailed records during construction (the spreadsheet), and my gain was well within the $500k married filing jointly exclusion. The IRS accepted my documentation package without any follow-up. They're actually reasonable about missing receipts from older personal residence transactions - they understand people don't keep perfect records indefinitely. Focus on presenting what you have professionally with a clear explanation, and don't let them intimidate you into thinking you owe taxes on money you never actually gained.
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Isla Fischer
ā¢This is exactly the reassurance I needed to hear! Your situation sounds almost identical to mine. I'm particularly relieved to know that the IRS accepted your documentation without follow-up questions. I've been worried that my spreadsheet alone wouldn't be sufficient, but hearing that contemporaneous records carry so much weight makes me feel much more confident. I do have most of the same supporting documents you mentioned - construction loan paperwork, building permits, and property insurance records. One thing that's been stressing me out is that some of my spreadsheet entries are rounded to the nearest $50 or $100 because that's how I tracked things at the time (I wasn't thinking about future IRS scrutiny!). Did you have similar rounding in your records, or were all your entries exact amounts? I'm wondering if the IRS would view rounded numbers as suspicious or if that's just normal for how people track construction costs in real time. Also, when you mention the final inspection certificate - is that something that would help establish the legitimacy of the construction costs? I definitely have mine and hadn't thought about including it.
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