


Ask the community...
One thing to consider that hasn't been mentioned yet - if your church is part of a larger denomination, check with their financial office first. Many denominations have established procedures for member loans and may even have template agreements that comply with both IRS requirements and their own governance rules. Also, consider setting up the loan with a nominal interest rate (like 1-2%) instead of zero interest. This can actually simplify things tax-wise since you avoid the imputed interest calculations entirely, and the small amount of interest income is usually manageable. The church can still benefit significantly from below-market rates without triggering the complex IRS rules around gift loans. Make sure you understand your state's usury laws too - some states have minimum interest rate requirements even for loans to nonprofits. Better to be safe and charge a small amount than risk having the loan structure challenged later.
This is really helpful advice about checking with the denomination first! As someone new to navigating church finances, I hadn't considered that there might be established procedures already in place. The point about using a nominal interest rate instead of zero is intriguing - it sounds like it could actually make the paperwork simpler while still providing meaningful help to the church. Do you happen to know what the current minimum rates would be to avoid the imputed interest issues? I want to make sure I'm not accidentally creating more tax complications by trying to be too generous. Also, regarding state usury laws - is there a good resource to check these requirements, or would I need to consult with a local attorney?
@5da4638a78e9 For the minimum interest rates to avoid imputed interest issues, you'll want to check the IRS's Applicable Federal Rates (AFRs) which are published monthly. As of recent publications, short-term rates (loans under 3 years) are around 4-5%, mid-term rates are slightly higher. You can find the current rates on the IRS website under "Applicable Federal Rates" - they update these monthly. For state usury laws, your state's banking department or attorney general's office usually publishes these limits online. Most states have specific exemptions for loans to charitable organizations, but it's worth checking. You could also call your state bar association's lawyer referral service - many offer brief consultations for exactly these types of questions at reasonable rates. The denomination route is definitely worth exploring first. Many have been through this exact scenario and have streamlined processes that protect both the member and the organization.
Another consideration worth mentioning - if your church has any pending legal issues or financial disputes, you might want to wait until those are resolved before making the loan. I learned this the hard way when I lent money to a nonprofit that later had creditor issues. Even though my loan was properly documented, it got tied up in their financial restructuring for months. Also, consider whether you want to include a clause allowing you to convert the loan to a donation at any time. This gives you flexibility if the church's situation changes or if you decide you'd rather take the charitable deduction. Just make sure this conversion option is clearly documented in the original agreement so there's no question about your intent with the IRS. One more practical tip - set up a separate savings account just for tracking this loan. Keep all the paperwork together and document any payments or communications about the loan. If you ever need to prove to the IRS that this was a legitimate loan (not a gift), having clean records will save you a lot of headaches.
I'm going through this exact same situation right now and this thread has been incredibly helpful! I've had just the single 810 code on my transcript for about 3 weeks now, and like everyone else, I was expecting to see other codes appear based on previous years' experiences. I tried the online verification at idverify.irs.gov twice but kept getting error messages saying they couldn't verify my information. I'm planning to call the 800-830-5084 number tomorrow morning. One thing I'm curious about - for those who successfully completed phone verification, did you need to have your actual tax return documents in front of you during the call, or was having last year's AGI and basic info sufficient? Also, I noticed some people mentioned that transcripts update on Fridays - is that a reliable pattern for seeing changes after verification is complete? I'm trying to figure out the best days to check for updates so I don't drive myself crazy refreshing daily! Thanks to everyone who shared their experiences here. It's such a relief to know this is normal for 2024 and not some unique problem with my return.
@Yara Khoury For the phone verification, I d'recommend having both your current return and last year s'return handy, just in case. While they primarily need your prior year AGI, they sometimes ask follow-up questions about income sources, filing status, or dependents to confirm your identity. Better to be over-prepared than to have to call back! Regarding transcript updates - yes, the Friday update pattern is pretty reliable. The IRS batch processes most transcript updates overnight Thursday into Friday, so Friday morning is typically when you ll'see changes. However, after verification is complete, don t'expect immediate updates. In my experience, it took about 2-3 Friday cycles before I saw the 810 code release and normal processing begin. One tip: when you call tomorrow, try calling right at 7 AM when they open. The wait times are usually shortest first thing in the morning. Good luck!
I'm currently dealing with this exact situation and this thread has been a lifesaver! I've had only the 810 code on my transcript for about 5 weeks now, and I was starting to panic thinking something was seriously wrong with my return. Reading everyone's experiences here has helped me understand that this is actually the new normal for identity verification in 2024. I successfully completed phone verification about 10 days ago after calling 800-830-5084. The agent was helpful and confirmed that the isolated 810 code meant my return never entered normal processing - it was flagged for identity verification right from the start. She told me to expect 6-9 weeks for processing to resume after verification, which aligns with what others have shared here. One thing I learned during my call that might help others: they asked me not just for my prior year AGI, but also for specific line items from my current return (like total wages and withholdings). Having my actual tax documents in front of me definitely made the process smoother. The verification itself only took about 15 minutes once I got through to an agent. Now I'm in the waiting phase like many of you. My transcript still shows just the 810 code, but I'm checking every Friday morning for updates based on the advice here. It's frustrating not knowing exactly when things will move, but at least I understand the process now thanks to this community!
@Diego Fisher Thank you for sharing your timeline and verification experience! It s'really helpful to hear that they asked for specific line items from your current return during the phone call - I wouldn t'have thought to have those details ready. I m'in a similar situation with just the 810 code for about 2 weeks now, and I ve'been putting off calling because I wasn t'sure what documentation I d'need. Your experience gives me confidence to make that call this week. Quick question - when you say they asked for total "wages and withholdings, were" they referring to specific lines from your 1040, or were they asking about the amounts from your W-2? I want to make sure I have the right documents organized before I call. Also, did they give you any kind of confirmation number or reference number after completing verification that you could use to track the status if you needed to call back?
I did this last year - donated about 300 items after downsizing. My advice is to create a spreadsheet NOW before you start donating. Column headings: Date donated, Charity name/address, Item description, Condition, Original cost, FMV, and Photo reference number. Take photos of EVERYTHING in groups (like "10 men's shirts" can be one photo). Number your photos to match your spreadsheet. Trust me, trying to reconstruct this at tax time is a nightmare.
This is good advice but seems really time consuming. How long did it take you to document 300 items this way? I'm looking at closer to 600 items and wondering if it's even worth the tax deduction with that much work.
@Oliver Zimmermann It honestly took me about 2-3 hours total spread over several weeks as I was packing things up. The key is doing it as you go rather than all at once. I d'spend 15-20 minutes each weekend photographing and cataloging whatever I d'sorted that week. For 600 items, you re'probably looking at maybe 4-5 hours total if you re'efficient about it. Given that I saved about $8,000 in taxes on my donations, that worked out to roughly $1,600+ per hour of documentation time - definitely worth it! Plus having everything organized made filling out Form 8283 a breeze instead of a nightmare. The alternative is either not taking the deductions losing (thousands or) scrambling at tax time trying to remember what you donated where and (possibly making mistakes that could trigger an audit .)The upfront time investment is totally worth the peace of mind and tax savings.
Just want to add one more thing that helped me a lot - keep a running tally of your donations by charity as you go. The IRS gets suspicious if you claim massive deductions to obscure charities, but spreading $40k across well-known organizations like Goodwill, Salvation Army, local food banks, etc. looks much more legitimate. Also, make sure you're getting proper receipts from each charity with their tax ID number. Some smaller organizations are terrible about this, and without a proper receipt showing they're a qualified 501(c)(3), your deduction could get disallowed entirely. I learned this the hard way when one of my donations got questioned because the charity's receipt was just a handwritten note without their EIN. One last tip - if any of your items are unusual or potentially valuable (artwork, antiques, jewelry), consider getting a quick informal appraisal even if they're under $5,000. It shows good faith effort at accurate valuation and can save headaches later.
Great advice about spreading donations across multiple well-known charities! I hadn't thought about how concentrated donations might look suspicious. Quick question - do you know if there's a specific threshold or percentage that raises red flags, or is it more about the overall pattern? Also, regarding the informal appraisals for items under $5,000 - did you find any appraisers who were willing to do quick valuations at reasonable rates? Most of the ones I've contacted want to charge their full fee even for simple items, which doesn't make financial sense for something worth a few hundred dollars.
Doesn't this all become moot if you're taking the standard deduction anyway? With the current standard deduction being so high ($13,850 for single filers in 2023), most people aren't itemizing anymore, right? So would the mortgage interest and property tax deductions even matter?
Not necessarily! Even with the higher standard deduction, there are still cases where itemizing makes sense, especially in high tax areas or with expensive homes. For my partner and I, one of us itemizes while the other takes the standard deduction. Also, some states allow you to itemize on your state return even if you take the standard deduction federally, so the property tax and mortgage interest can still save you money at the state level. Definitely worth running the numbers both ways!
Thanks for clarifying! I hadn't considered the state tax angle at all. We're in California which has high property taxes, so I guess that could push one or both of us over the threshold for itemizing. And it's a good point about one person itemizing and one taking standard - I hadn't thought about us doing different approaches.
Congrats on your upcoming closing! As someone who went through this exact decision last year, I'd strongly recommend tenancy in common for your situation. Even though you're splitting everything 50/50 now, TIC gives you flexibility if your financial situations change down the road. One thing that really helped us was setting up a separate joint account just for house-related expenses (mortgage, property taxes, insurance, repairs) where we each contribute our percentage monthly. This makes tracking everything for taxes super clean and eliminates any confusion about who paid what. Since you both make similar incomes around $85k, you'll want to run the numbers on whether either of you will be itemizing deductions. With a $430k house, your property taxes and mortgage interest combined might push at least one of you over the standard deduction threshold, especially if you're in a higher tax state. Even if only one of you itemizes, you can still both benefit from the deductions based on your ownership percentages and actual payments. The two-week timeline is tight, but your title company should be able to handle the TIC paperwork without any issues. Just make sure to specify the exact ownership percentages you want on the deed!
This is really helpful advice about setting up the separate joint account! I'm curious though - when you say "contribute your percentage monthly," do you mean you each put in exactly your ownership percentage of all house expenses? Like if one person owns 60% they pay 60% of everything? Or do you split some things equally regardless of ownership percentage? We're trying to figure out the fairest way to handle this since we're both contributing equally to the down payment but might want different ownership splits later.
Nasira Ibanez
22 Can someone explain what happens with the depreciation you've taken when you sell at a loss? I know if you sell at a gain, there's depreciation recapture, but what if you're already taking a loss?
0 coins
Nasira Ibanez
ā¢5 Even if you sell at an overall loss, you still have to recapture the depreciation you've taken. The IRS considers depreciation and capital losses separately. So you might have a capital loss on the sale, but still owe taxes on the depreciation you previously deducted.
0 coins
Malik Jackson
This is a really comprehensive discussion about converted rental properties! I'm dealing with a similar situation where I converted my primary residence to a rental in 2021. One thing I'd add is that you should also keep detailed records of any improvements you made to the property both before and after conversion. Capital improvements made while it was your primary residence get added to your original basis, while improvements made after conversion to rental property are treated differently - they create separate depreciable assets with their own recovery periods. This can actually help reduce your taxable loss or increase your deductible loss depending on the timing. Also, don't forget about the home office deduction if you used part of your primary residence for business before converting it - that creates yet another layer of complexity in the basis calculations. I learned this the hard way when preparing my taxes last year!
0 coins
Samuel Robinson
ā¢Great point about keeping detailed improvement records! I hadn't thought about the timing difference between improvements made as a primary residence versus as a rental. Do you know if there's a specific form or worksheet that helps track all these different basis adjustments? Also, regarding the home office deduction - does that mean if I had a home office while living there, I would have already been depreciating part of the house, which would complicate the conversion basis calculation even more?
0 coins