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I went through this exact same situation last year and it was so frustrating! My Box 10 was completely blank too, and like you, I thought it meant I had zero property taxes to claim. What I ended up doing was calling my county tax assessor's office directly - they were actually super helpful and could tell me exactly when property taxes were paid on my address and by whom. Turns out my mortgage company had paid taxes twice during the year from my escrow account, but for some reason didn't report it in Box 10. I also found out that since I bought mid-year like you did, I needed to look at my HUD settlement statement from closing. There should be a line item for "real estate taxes" that shows what you paid upfront. In my case, I had paid about $900 at closing that I would have completely missed if I just relied on the 1098. Don't stress too much about it - you're definitely not alone in dealing with incomplete 1098 forms. The key is to track down what you actually paid rather than what the mortgage company reported. Your closing documents and mortgage statements should have all the info you need!
Thanks for sharing your experience Miguel! This gives me so much hope. I've been putting off dealing with this because it seemed so overwhelming, but calling the county tax assessor sounds way more manageable than trying to decode all these mortgage documents on my own. Quick question - when you called the assessor's office, did you need any specific information beyond just your address? And did they charge anything for looking up the payment history? I'm worried they might want account numbers or other details I don't have readily available. Also, that's a great point about the HUD settlement statement. I remember that stack of papers being massive, but if there's a specific line item to look for, that makes it much easier to find. Did you end up having to amend your return after you found all this missing information, or were you able to catch it before filing?
I can relate to the anxiety around tax season! The empty Box 10 situation is actually pretty common and definitely doesn't mean you paid zero in property taxes. Since you bought in June and have been making escrow payments, you almost certainly have deductible property taxes. Here's what I'd recommend checking: Look at your year-end mortgage statement (many lenders send these in January) - it should show a breakdown of what was paid from your escrow account for taxes. Also, dig out your closing disclosure from when you purchased - there should be property tax adjustments showing what you paid at closing. The reason Box 10 is empty could be that your lender handles escrow payments to multiple tax jurisdictions, or they simply don't complete that section reliably. Some mortgage companies are notorious for leaving it blank even when they've paid thousands in taxes on your behalf. If you're still confused after checking those documents, consider calling your local tax collector's office with your property address - they can tell you exactly what was paid and when. Don't let the empty box cause you to miss out on legitimate deductions you're entitled to!
This is such solid advice, Destiny! I'm dealing with the exact same situation and your point about the year-end mortgage statement is really helpful. I just checked mine and found a section called "Escrow Account Summary" that shows they paid $2,847 in property taxes throughout the year, even though my 1098 Box 10 is completely blank. I think what's happening is that mortgage companies are required to send the 1098 but Box 10 is optional for them to fill out, so many just don't bother. It's so misleading though - I almost filed thinking I had no property tax deduction at all! One thing I'm still unclear on - if I find property taxes paid both at closing AND from my escrow account during the year, I can claim both amounts on my Schedule A, right? Want to make sure I'm not double-counting anything or claiming something I shouldn't.
I just want to say how helpful this entire thread has been! I'm also a first-time filer and was completely panicking about my W-2 having multiple entries in boxes 18-20. Reading through everyone's explanations has been incredibly reassuring. The "mini-governments" analogy really clicked for me - it makes so much sense that different localities would have different rules about what they consider taxable income. I was making this way more complicated in my head than it actually is. For anyone else who might be reading this with the same confusion: the key takeaway seems to be to enter each locality exactly as it appears on your W-2, don't try to combine or "fix" the numbers, and look for the "Add another locality" option in your tax software. The software will handle all the calculations once you enter the information correctly. Thanks to everyone who shared their experiences and expertise - this community is amazing for helping newcomers navigate these confusing situations!
I'm so glad this thread helped you too! I was feeling the exact same way when I first saw my W-2 - like I was in way over my head. It's amazing how something that seems so complicated at first becomes much clearer when people explain it in plain language. What really struck me from reading everyone's responses is how common this situation actually is. I thought I was the only one dealing with multiple localities, but it sounds like tons of people go through this, especially those working for school districts or municipal governments. I'm definitely bookmarking this thread for next year's tax season. Having all these explanations and tips in one place is going to be so valuable when I'm doing this again. And you're absolutely right about the community - everyone here was so patient and helpful in breaking this down for us newcomers. Makes the whole tax filing process feel a lot less scary!
This thread has been incredibly helpful! As someone who's been lurking in this community for a while but never posted, I felt compelled to jump in because I went through this exact same confusion last year. I work for a city government that serves multiple school districts, and my W-2 had THREE different localities in boxes 18-20. I was absolutely lost and ended up paying a tax preparer $200 just to figure it out, when it turned out to be much simpler than I thought. What everyone has explained here about the "mini-governments" concept is spot on. Each locality has its own rules about pre-tax deductions. In my case, the city excluded health insurance and parking from taxable wages, one school district included health insurance but excluded parking, and another school district included both. That's why all my Box 18 amounts were different. The key lesson I learned: don't overthink it! Enter each locality exactly as shown, and trust your tax software to do the calculations. I spent hours trying to "figure out" why the numbers were different when I should have just entered them as-is. For anyone still feeling overwhelmed - you've got this! The fact that you're asking questions and being careful shows you're on the right track.
Thank you so much for sharing your experience! It's really encouraging to hear from someone who went through an even more complex situation with THREE localities and came out the other side successfully. Your point about not overthinking it really resonates with me. I've been sitting here trying to calculate and recalculate the differences between my Box 18 amounts, when really I just need to trust that the numbers on my W-2 are correct and enter them exactly as they appear. It's also helpful to know that paying a tax preparer $200 for something this straightforward isn't necessary if you understand the basics. As a newcomer trying to save money and learn how to do this myself, that's really valuable information. I'm definitely feeling more confident now about tackling my multiple locality situation. Thanks to everyone in this thread for being so generous with your knowledge and experience - this community is exactly what I needed as a first-time filer!
One thing to consider that hasn't been fully addressed - make sure you're tracking the mortgage principal payments correctly in addition to the interest. While mortgage interest is deductible as a rental expense on the 1065, the principal payments are not deductible but should still be recorded as capital contributions to maintain accurate capital accounts. I learned this the hard way when my tax preparer caught that I was only tracking interest payments as contributions. The principal portion increases your basis in the LLC and affects future distributions or sale proceeds. Keep detailed records separating principal vs interest on each payment - your mortgage statements should break this down monthly. Also, if either partner ever stops making their portion of mortgage payments, you'll need to adjust capital accounts accordingly to reflect who's actually contributing what to the LLC.
This is such a crucial point that I wish I had known when I first set up my LLC rental property! I made the same mistake of only tracking interest payments initially. Just to add to what you're saying - when tracking the principal vs interest split, make sure you're consistent month to month. I use a simple spreadsheet that pulls the principal and interest amounts directly from my mortgage statements. This becomes especially important at year-end when you're calculating total capital contributions for each partner. Also, if your mortgage has PMI (private mortgage insurance), that's also deductible as a rental expense through the LLC, not as a personal deduction. Another detail that's easy to miss but can add up over the year. Thanks for bringing up the point about unequal contributions - that's definitely something to plan for in your operating agreement since life circumstances can change and one partner might not always be able to make their payments.
This is exactly the kind of situation where having proper documentation from the beginning makes all the difference. I went through something similar with my business partner last year, and we ended up having to reconstruct our entire paper trail mid-tax season. A few additional considerations that might help: 1) **Depreciation tracking** - Since the LLC owns the property, depreciation should be claimed on the partnership return (Form 1065), not on your personal returns. Make sure you're calculating this correctly based on the property's basis in the LLC's books. 2) **State tax implications** - Don't forget that your state might have different rules for how partnership rental income is treated. Some states require separate partnership returns even if you don't need to file federally. 3) **Future planning** - Consider whether you want to eventually transfer the mortgage to the LLC's name. Some lenders will allow this after a certain period, which would simplify your tax situation going forward. The key is maintaining clear separation between personal and business transactions while properly documenting the capital contributions. I'd recommend setting up a monthly process where you record these transactions immediately after making mortgage payments rather than trying to reconstruct everything at year-end. Good luck with your filing!
This is incredibly helpful, especially the point about depreciation! I hadn't even thought about that aspect yet. Quick question - when you mention calculating depreciation based on the property's basis in the LLC's books, how exactly do we determine that basis when we personally put down the down payment but the LLC holds title? Is the basis just the purchase price of the property, or do we need to account for the fact that we personally funded the down payment as an initial capital contribution? I want to make sure we're not missing anything that could affect our depreciation calculations going forward. Also, regarding transferring the mortgage to the LLC eventually - did you run into any issues with your lender when you explored that option? I'm wondering if it's worth pursuing or if we should just plan to keep this structure long-term.
Just want to add a small tip from my experience last year. When paper filing with Form 8839, make absolutely sure you sign and date the physical return! The #1 reason paper returns get delayed (according to the IRS agent I spoke with) is missing signatures. Sounds obvious but apparently happens all the time. Also, send it certified mail with tracking. The peace of mind is worth the extra few dollars, especially when you're counting on a big refund.
Do you need to attach the actual adoption papers/court documents, or just receipts for the expenses? Our adoption isn't finalized yet but we've paid most of the fees already.
You'll need to provide documentation proving both the adoption expenses and the status of the adoption. If your adoption isn't finalized yet, you'll need to include receipts for qualified expenses and documentation showing the adoption is in process (like an approved home study, placement agreement, or court documents). For foreign adoptions, the requirements are slightly different, so make sure you check that specific section of the instructions if applicable. The key is providing enough documentation to prove the adoption is legitimate and the expenses qualify.
Update: Thanks everyone for the helpful advice! We ended up paper filing our return with Form 8839 and all the supporting documentation. We sent it certified mail as suggested and included a detailed cover letter explaining our situation. I'm still disappointed we couldn't e-File, but at least now I understand why. The IRS really should update their systems to handle these special forms electronically. Seems crazy that in 2025 we're still dealing with paper returns for something as common as adoption!
Did you use TurboTax or another tax software? Even though you had to paper file, could you still prepare everything electronically and then just print it out? I'm in a similar situation.
Yes, absolutely! Most tax software programs like TurboTax, H&R Block, and TaxAct will let you prepare everything electronically even when you can't e-file. You can complete your entire return including Form 8839, and then when you get to the filing step, choose "Print and Mail" instead of e-file. This is actually the best approach because the software will automatically calculate your adoption credit correctly and populate all the right forms. Then you just print everything out, sign it, and mail it with your supporting documents. Much easier than trying to fill out paper forms by hand! Just make sure to double-check that your software shows the adoption credit amount correctly before printing - sometimes there are calculation quirks with less common credits like this one.
QuantumQuest
Something nobody's mentioned - check if you received an UPDATED 1095-A! The marketplace often sends corrected forms in February or even March. The updated forms usually have a small checkbox marked in the top right corner indicating it's a corrected form. I spent weeks fighting with TurboTax over my 1095-A until I realized I had a corrected form sitting in my mail pile that I hadn't opened. The original form had incorrect premium amounts which is why TurboTax kept giving me errors.
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Connor Murphy
ā¢This happened to me too! My corrected form wasn't even mailed - it was just sitting in my marketplace account online. I never got a notification about it. Definitely worth checking your healthcare.gov account (or your state marketplace site) to see if there's an updated form.
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Rami Samuels
I had the exact same issue with my 1095-A in TurboTax this year! After trying multiple fixes, I discovered the problem was with how TurboTax handles forms that have gaps in coverage. My marketplace coverage wasn't continuous - I had coverage January through May, then a gap, then picked it back up in September through December. TurboTax's interface doesn't handle partial year coverage very well, especially when the months aren't consecutive. The fix that worked for me was to manually override the "full year coverage" assumption in TurboTax. When you get to the 1095-A section, look for an option that says something like "I had coverage for only part of the year" or "My coverage wasn't for all 12 months." Once I selected that option and entered only the months I actually had coverage, everything processed smoothly. Also double-check that your SLCSP amounts match exactly - even a $1 difference can cause the software to crash. The marketplace sometimes rounds differently than what TurboTax expects. Hope this helps!
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