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Just wanted to add a few key points that might help clarify things for you: 1. **Holding Period**: Since your uncle gifted these to you "a few years back," make sure you can establish that you held them for more than one year. The long-term capital gains treatment (with the 28% collectibles rate) only applies if the total holding period (including your uncle's ownership time) exceeds one year. 2. **Form 8949 Reporting**: You'll need to report each coin sale separately on Form 8949, then summarize on Schedule D. Don't forget to check Box B for collectibles held more than one year. 3. **Gift Tax Considerations**: Since you mentioned gift taxation in your title - the good news is that as the recipient, you don't owe any gift tax. That would have been your uncle's responsibility if the total value exceeded the annual exclusion limit when he gave them to you. 4. **Dealer Reporting**: If you sold through a coin dealer, they may send you a 1099-B form, but it might not show your correct basis. You'll need to adjust this on your return using the stepped-up basis from the original gift. The $180 per coin gain calculation mentioned earlier looks correct based on your numbers. Just make sure you have some documentation of the original purchase price - even an email from your uncle confirming what he paid would be helpful to keep with your records.
This is really helpful! I have a quick question about the holding period calculation. My uncle bought the coins in early 2022 and gave them to me in late 2022, then I sold them in 2025. Does the holding period include the time my uncle owned them, or does it start fresh when I received the gift? I want to make sure I'm calculating this correctly for the long-term vs short-term treatment.
Great question! For gifted property, your holding period includes the time your uncle owned the coins. So if he bought them in early 2022 and you sold them in 2025, you'd definitely qualify for long-term capital gains treatment since the total holding period is over one year. This is different from inherited property where you automatically get long-term treatment regardless of how long anyone held it. With gifts, you "tack on" the donor's holding period to your own, which works in your favor here. So you're all set for the long-term collectibles rate (capped at 28%) rather than short-term capital gains which would be taxed as ordinary income. Just make sure to document the timeline in case the IRS ever asks for clarification.
I went through a similar situation with some gold coins my grandmother gave me before she passed away. One thing that really helped me was keeping a detailed spreadsheet with all the information - date of gift, estimated original purchase date and price, date of sale, sale price, and any fees involved. Since you mentioned your uncle told you the approximate original price ($2,315), I'd suggest reaching out to him to see if he has any documentation like receipts, bank statements, or even just an email confirmation from when he purchased them. Even if he doesn't have the exact paperwork, having him write a simple statement confirming the purchase details can be valuable documentation for your records. Also, double-check with whoever you sold the coins to - some dealers keep records of what they've purchased and might be able to provide you with a detailed receipt showing the exact specifications of the coins (year, condition, etc.) which can help support your tax filing. The collectibles tax treatment can definitely feel overwhelming at first, but you're asking all the right questions and it sounds like you have the key information you need to report this correctly!
This is excellent advice about documentation! I'm definitely going to create a detailed spreadsheet like you suggested. I actually do have some text messages from when my uncle first told me about buying the coins, so that might help establish the timeline and original cost. One question though - when you say having your uncle write a statement, does it need to be notarized or anything formal like that? Or would a simple signed letter be sufficient for IRS purposes if they ever ask for documentation? I'm also curious about the dealer records point you made. I sold mine through a local coin shop and they just gave me cash - no formal receipt or anything. Should I go back and ask for some kind of documentation of the sale?
My husband and I were confused about this last year! One thing that helped us was opening separate accounts and each writing our own checks to our daughter rather than giving from our joint account. Our tax software flagged that we didn't need to file Form 709 this way since each gift was individually under the limit.
Which tax software did you use that caught this? I've been using TurboTax and don't remember it asking anything about gifts.
Most standard tax software like TurboTax, H&R Block, or TaxAct don't automatically prompt you about gifts unless you specifically navigate to the gift tax section or indicate you made large gifts. The gift tax reporting is separate from your regular income tax return - you'd need to file Form 709 separately if required. Your approach of separate checks from separate accounts was smart because it keeps each gift under the individual limit and avoids the need for gift splitting elections entirely.
Great question! Just to add some clarity to the excellent answers already provided - the key thing to remember is that gift splitting is an election you make, not something that happens automatically just because you're married filing jointly. If your parents want to give your brother more than $18,000 each in 2025 (so more than $36,000 total), they have a few options: 1) Each parent can give up to $18,000 from their own funds without any paperwork, 2) They can give more and elect gift splitting on Form 709 (no tax owed, just reporting), or 3) They can give even larger amounts using their lifetime exemption. One practical tip: if they're planning a substantial gift for the down payment, they might want to consider timing it across tax years. For example, they could give $36,000 in late 2024 and another $36,000 in early 2025, effectively doubling the amount without triggering any gift tax consequences or filing requirements. Also worth noting that the recipient (your brother) never owes taxes on gifts received, regardless of the amount - that's always the giver's responsibility.
This is really helpful, especially the timing strategy across tax years! I hadn't thought about splitting large gifts between December and January to maximize the annual exclusions. Just to make sure I understand correctly - if my parents gave $36,000 in December 2024 and another $36,000 in January 2025, that would be completely separate for gift tax purposes since they're different tax years, right? Also, when you mention the lifetime exemption for larger amounts, is there a point where it makes more sense to just use that instead of doing the gift splitting paperwork?
I'm in a very similar situation - small partnership that's been mostly dormant while waiting for our ERC to process. Based on all the responses here, I think I'm going to try TaxSlayer Business for around $70 since it seems like the most affordable option that still provides some guidance. The DIY route is tempting to save money, but I'm honestly worried about making mistakes on a partnership return, even a simple one. And while the taxr.ai recommendations are interesting, I'd rather stick with something more established for my first time doing this myself. Thanks everyone for the detailed breakdown of options - this thread has been incredibly helpful! It's reassuring to know there are affordable alternatives to the $200+ software packages.
That sounds like a solid choice! I went with TaxSlayer Business last year for my partnership and while it's not the prettiest interface, it definitely gets the job done for around that price point. Just make sure to double-check the final calculations before submitting - I caught a small error in my depreciation section that the software didn't flag. One tip: if you run into any issues during the process, their help documentation is actually pretty decent even if their phone support isn't great. Good luck with your return and hopefully your ERC comes through soon!
I've been following this thread closely since I'm in an almost identical situation - partnership on hold waiting for ERC funds to come through. After reading all the suggestions here, I decided to go with TaxAct Business for around $80 this year. What really sold me was that several people mentioned it handles ERC-related entries well, which has been a concern of mine since our business situation is a bit unusual right now. The interface seemed more intuitive than TaxSlayer when I tried their demo, and the extra $10-15 felt worth it for the peace of mind. For anyone else in a similar boat, I'd recommend trying the free demos that most of these platforms offer before committing. It really helped me get a feel for which one would work best for my comfort level with tax software.
That's a great point about trying the demos first! I wish I had thought of that before committing to software last year. The ERC handling is definitely important right now since so many small partnerships are in this weird holding pattern. I'm curious - did TaxAct's demo let you actually input some test data to see how it handles the ERC entries? That would be really helpful to know before paying for the full version. My partnership has some unusual timing issues with our ERC application that I want to make sure get reported correctly.
22 Has anyone here actually had their S-Corp inventory donation audited? I'm worried about the documentation requirements and wondering how strict the IRS really is about proving the cost basis.
5 While I haven't personally seen an audit specifically targeting S-Corp inventory donations, I have seen broader S-Corp audits where charitable contributions were examined. The IRS definitely looks for proper substantiation. Make sure you have: 1) Original cost records for the inventory, 2) A contemporaneous written acknowledgment from the charity, 3) Completed Form 8283 if over $500, and 4) A qualified appraisal if the claimed deduction is over $5,000. The most common mistake I see is failing to get that qualified appraisal for larger donations, which can result in the entire deduction being disallowed.
One thing I haven't seen mentioned yet is the potential impact on your S-Corp's ordinary income when you donate inventory. When you donate inventory at cost basis, you're essentially removing it from your books without recognizing any income from a sale. This means you won't have to pay taxes on profit you would have made if you sold the inventory instead. However, you also need to consider whether the inventory donation makes sense from a cash flow perspective. You're giving up the cost basis as a deduction, but you're also not getting any cash from a sale. Make sure the tax benefit to you and your fellow shareholders justifies not pursuing other options like discounted sales or liquidation. Also, don't forget to properly remove the donated inventory from your books and adjust your inventory accounting accordingly. This should be done in the same tax year as the donation to ensure everything aligns properly on your 1120-S.
That's a really insightful point about the cash flow implications that I hadn't fully considered. You're right that we need to weigh the tax benefit against the lost opportunity to generate actual cash from selling the inventory, even at a discount. One follow-up question - when you mention adjusting inventory accounting, do you mean we need to make a journal entry to write off the inventory cost as a charitable contribution expense? Or is there a specific way S-Corps are supposed to handle the book entry for donated inventory to ensure it flows through correctly to the K-1? I want to make sure our bookkeeper handles this properly so there aren't any issues when our CPA prepares the 1120-S.
Yara Assad
Someone mentioned PFIC earlier and that's actually super important. If your foreign ETFs are considered PFICs (most are), you might need to file Form 8621 for each one, even if they're held in a US brokerage!!! That's separate from the 8938 question.
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Olivia Clark
ā¢This is correct. I learned this the hard way. The PFIC rules are a nightmare but you absolutely have to file 8621 for each foreign ETF that qualifies as a PFIC. My accountant charges me $150 PER FORM for each PFIC I own. Totally ridiculous but better than the penalties.
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Dmitry Volkov
Thank you all for this incredibly helpful discussion! As someone who's been dealing with similar confusion, I wanted to add a few clarifications that might help others: 1. **Form 8938 vs FBAR**: Both commenters above are correct - since your Chase account is with a US institution, you don't need either form, regardless of what foreign investments are inside it. 2. **PFIC trap**: @Yara Assad and @Olivia Clark are absolutely right about this being a separate issue. Many foreign ETFs are indeed PFICs, and Form 8621 requirements apply regardless of where the account is held. This is often overlooked and can result in significant penalties. 3. **Common mistake**: I see people get confused because they think "foreign investment" = "foreign account" but the IRS distinguishes between the location of the financial institution vs. the underlying investments. @Tyrone Johnson - for your specific situation, I'd recommend asking your accountant to specifically verify whether any of those foreign ETFs qualify as PFICs. The portfolio manager at Chase should be able to provide you with a list of all foreign funds purchased during the year so you can check each one. The tax software and IRS callback services mentioned above sound like great resources for getting definitive answers on these complex international tax situations.
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Marcus Williams
ā¢This is such a helpful summary, thank you! I'm new to dealing with international tax issues and the distinction between account location vs. investment type is something I definitely didn't understand before reading this thread. Quick question - when you mention asking the portfolio manager for a list of foreign funds, should I be looking for specific information beyond just the fund names? Like do I need expense ratios, distribution details, or other specific data to determine PFIC status? I want to make sure I'm asking for the right information when I contact Chase. Also, has anyone found a reliable way to research PFIC status online, or is this something that really requires professional guidance? Some of these ETFs have pretty complex structures and I'm worried about missing something important.
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