IRS

Can't reach IRS? Claimyr connects you to a live IRS agent in minutes.

Claimyr is a pay-as-you-go service. We do not charge a recurring subscription.



Fox KTVUABC 7CBSSan Francisco Chronicle

Using Claimyr will:

  • Connect you to a human agent at the IRS
  • Skip the long phone menu
  • Call the correct department
  • Redial until on hold
  • Forward a call to your phone with reduced hold time
  • Give you free callbacks if the IRS drops your call

If I could give 10 stars I would

If I could give 10 stars I would If I could give 10 stars I would Such an amazing service so needed during the times when EDD almost never picks up Claimyr gets me on the phone with EDD every time without fail faster. A much needed service without Claimyr I would have never received the payment I needed to support me during my postpartum recovery. Thank you so much Claimyr!


Really made a difference

Really made a difference, save me time and energy from going to a local office for making the call.


Worth not wasting your time calling for hours.

Was a bit nervous or untrusting at first, but my calls went thru. First time the wait was a bit long but their customer chat line on their page was helpful and put me at ease that I would receive my call. Today my call dropped because of EDD and Claimyr heard my concern on the same chat and another call was made within the hour.


An incredibly helpful service

An incredibly helpful service! Got me connected to a CA EDD agent without major hassle (outside of EDD's agents dropping calls – which Claimyr has free protection for). If you need to file a new claim and can't do it online, pay the $ to Claimyr to get the process started. Absolutely worth it!


Consistent,frustration free, quality Service.

Used this service a couple times now. Before I'd call 200 times in less than a weak frustrated as can be. But using claimyr with a couple hours of waiting i was on the line with an representative or on hold. Dropped a couple times but each reconnected not long after and was mission accomplished, thanks to Claimyr.


IT WORKS!! Not a scam!

I tried for weeks to get thru to EDD PFL program with no luck. I gave this a try thinking it may be a scam. OMG! It worked and They got thru within an hour and my claim is going to finally get paid!! I upgraded to the $60 call. Best $60 spent!

Read all of our Trustpilot reviews


Ask the community...

  • DO post questions about your issues.
  • DO answer questions and support each other.
  • DO post tips & tricks to help folks.
  • DO NOT post call problems here - there is a support tab at the top for that :)

Has anyone considered the flipside? If the tenant pays utilities directly, does that mean the TENANT can deduct those utilities somehow? Like as a home office deduction if they work from home? Just curious if there's any benefit to the tenant for paying utilities directly vs having them included in rent.

0 coins

Tenants generally can't deduct regular household utilities, even if they work from home. The home office deduction works differently - they could potentially deduct a PORTION of utilities based on the percentage of the home used exclusively for business. But that's true regardless of whether they pay utilities directly or if utilities are bundled into rent. The tenant doesn't get any special tax treatment just because they pay utilities directly vs having them included in rent. The only real difference is that with direct payment, they have more control over usage and can potentially save money by being more energy-conscious.

0 coins

Thanks for explaining that! Makes sense about the home office deduction being based on percentage of space rather than how the utilities are paid. Guess it doesn't really matter tax-wise after all. I was just wondering if there was some hidden benefit I was missing. Appreciate the clarification!

0 coins

I went through this exact same situation with my duplex rental last year. The bottom line is definitely no - you cannot deduct utilities that your tenant pays directly to the utility companies. The IRS is very clear that you can only deduct expenses that you actually paid out of pocket. However, don't let this discourage you from the tenant-pays-utilities arrangement! There are actually some advantages to this setup. You don't have to worry about tenants leaving lights on or cranking up the heat since they're paying the bill. Plus, you avoid the hassle of having to collect utility reimbursements or dealing with seasonal fluctuations in your cash flow. Just make sure you're capturing all the deductions you ARE entitled to - property management fees, repairs, maintenance, insurance, property taxes, depreciation, etc. Those can add up to significant savings even without the utility deductions.

0 coins

StarSeeker

•

That's a great point about the advantages of having tenants pay utilities directly! I never thought about it from the cash flow perspective. I'm actually considering switching my rental arrangement to have tenants pay utilities directly for exactly those reasons - no more worrying about them blasting the AC all summer on my dime. Quick question though - when you made that switch, did you adjust the rent at all to account for the tenant now being responsible for utilities? I'm trying to figure out if I should lower the rent slightly since they're taking on that additional expense, or if the market rent should stay the same regardless of the utility arrangement.

0 coins

Ava Johnson

•

Does anyone know if summer camps qualify for the Dependent Care FSA? My kids will be in day camp for 8 weeks this summer while we work.

0 coins

Miguel Diaz

•

Yes! Day camps absolutely qualify for Dependent Care FSA reimbursement. My kids did soccer and science camps last summer and we used our DCFSA for those expenses. Just make sure it's a day program (overnight camps don't qualify). Also get receipts that clearly show the dates of service and the camp's tax ID number.

0 coins

I went through this exact same confusion last year! Here's what I wish someone had told me upfront: The process is: You pay daycare/nanny out of pocket → Submit receipts to your FSA administrator (through their website/app) → Get reimbursed to your bank account. Your employer sets up the FSA but a third-party company usually administers it. For your nanny situation - they absolutely qualify! No special license needed, just make sure you: 1. Get their SSN (you'll need it for receipts and tax forms) 2. Pay them legally (issue a W-2, pay employment taxes) 3. Keep detailed receipts with dates of service The money flows as you earn it through payroll deductions, so if you're putting in $5,000 over 12 months, you'll only have about $416 available after your first paycheck. Plan accordingly! One gotcha: Make sure your receipts include the provider's tax ID, specific service dates, and description of care. I had several claims rejected initially because my nanny's handwritten receipts were missing these details. The tax savings are real though - between federal, state, and FICA taxes, you'll likely save 25-30% on your childcare costs.

0 coins

Sofia Price

•

This is such a comprehensive overview, thank you! I'm new to FSAs and was getting overwhelmed by all the rules. One quick question - when you mention paying the nanny "legally" with W-2s and employment taxes, is there a minimum threshold before you need to do all that paperwork? Our nanny only works about 15 hours a week so I wasn't sure if that changes anything with the tax requirements.

0 coins

Did anyone see if the IRS has specific guidance on this? I looked at Publication 550 and it says interest on CDs is taxable in the year actually or constructively received. I think what's happening with the OP's CD is that the interest is being accrued daily (calculated) but only credited (paid) in January. You're only taxed when it's credited, not as it accrues.

0 coins

NebulaNomad

•

You're right about Publication 550. There's also a bit in there about "constructive receipt" which means if the interest was available to you even if you didn't take it, it's still taxable. For most CDs though, you can't access the interest without penalty until maturity or designated payment dates, so constructive receipt usually aligns with when the bank actually credits the interest.

0 coins

Ethan Wilson

•

Just to add another perspective - I'm a tax preparer and see this confusion every tax season. The key thing to understand is that CD interest timing can vary significantly even within the same bank depending on the specific product. For your situation, since your balance didn't change until January 2025, you likely won't owe any taxes for 2024 on this CD. The bank will send you a 1099-INT that shows exactly what's taxable for each year. One tip for future CD purchases: always ask specifically about the "interest crediting schedule" before you buy. Some banks will let you choose between monthly, quarterly, or annual crediting, which can help with tax planning. Also, keep in mind that online CD rates often come with different crediting schedules than branch CDs, so don't assume they're the same. For your estimated tax payments as a self-employed person, I'd recommend waiting until you receive your 1099-INT forms in January to know exactly how much CD interest you'll need to account for in your quarterly payments.

0 coins

This is really helpful advice! I'm new to managing CDs and tax planning as a self-employed person, so I appreciate the practical tips. Just to clarify - when you say "interest crediting schedule," is that always clearly stated in the CD terms, or is it something I need to specifically ask about? Also, for someone just starting out with CDs, are there any red flags or confusing terminology I should watch out for when comparing different banks' CD products? I want to make sure I understand exactly what I'm getting into before committing to longer-term CDs.

0 coins

Guys - this is all overthinking it. If you're making under 100k, the amount of interest you'll earn on the withheld taxes is minimal compared to the hassle. Let's say you would get a $3000 refund and could instead earn 5% on that money throughout the year. That's only $150 before taxes. Is it really worth the stress of potentially miscalculating and owing penalties? Sometimes the peace of mind of knowing your taxes are handled is worth more than squeezing out every last dollar.

0 coins

AaliyahAli

•

This is terrible advice. $150 might not seem like much to you, but that's money that could be working for you instead of the government. Plus, this is about developing good financial habits. Why would you voluntarily give an interest-free loan to anyone, let alone the government? The "hassle" is minimal once you set it up correctly.

0 coins

I've been doing this strategy for about 3 years now and wanted to share my experience. The key is finding the right balance - you don't want to underwithhold so much that you trigger penalties, but you also don't want to be too conservative and miss out on potential earnings. Here's what I learned: Start small your first year. I reduced my withholdings by about 15% and put that money into a high-yield savings account. I tracked everything carefully and made sure I still hit the safe harbor threshold. The second year, I got more aggressive and reduced by about 25%, investing the difference in a mix of CDs and money market accounts. The psychological aspect is huge though. You have to be disciplined enough to actually save/invest that money and not spend it. I set up automatic transfers to a separate "tax payment" account so I wouldn't be tempted to touch it. Last year I earned about $480 in interest that would have otherwise gone to the government as an interest-free loan. One tip: keep really good records of your calculations and payments. If you ever get questioned by the IRS, you want to be able to show you were following the rules intentionally, not just trying to avoid paying taxes.

0 coins

This is really helpful, thank you for sharing your actual experience! I'm in a similar situation where I've been getting refunds of around $2,500 each year and finally decided to do something about it. Your gradual approach makes a lot of sense - start conservative and then get more aggressive as you learn the system. Quick question about the record keeping - what specific documents do you keep track of? Just your W-4 changes and bank statements showing the money going into your tax account, or is there more to it? I want to make sure I'm covering all my bases if I go this route. Also, did you ever use any tools to help calculate the safe harbor amounts, or did you just work backwards from your previous year's tax return? I've seen some people mention online calculators but not sure if they're reliable.

0 coins

Emma Wilson

•

This thread has been incredibly helpful! As someone who works in tax preparation, I want to emphasize a few key points that might get overlooked: First, the timing of when you make this decision matters more than people realize. If you've already filed jointly for 2023, you generally can't amend just to change filing status for FAFSA purposes - the IRS rarely allows that without a compelling reason. Second, don't forget about the "prior-prior year" rule for FAFSA. For the 2025-26 academic year, they're using 2023 tax information. So if you're planning for future years, you need to think about this strategy 2 years in advance. Also, I've seen families get tripped up by the "married filing separately" vs "head of household" distinction. You can only file as head of household if you lived apart from your spouse for the last 6 months of the tax year AND paid more than half the household expenses. Just being married and filing separately doesn't automatically make you head of household. One last thing - if either of you has student loans with income-driven repayment plans, filing separately can significantly reduce those monthly payments since they'll only consider one spouse's income. This could be another factor in your overall financial calculation. The multi-year planning approach mentioned by Emma is spot-on. This isn't a one-year decision!

0 coins

Caden Turner

•

This is such valuable information from a tax professional perspective! I had no idea about the "prior-prior year" rule meaning you need to plan 2 years ahead. That completely changes how I'm thinking about this strategy. Quick question about the head of household distinction - if we file separately but still live together, we'd both just file as "married filing separately" right? We definitely haven't lived apart, so head of household wouldn't apply to our situation. Also, the point about student loan payments is interesting. My wife doesn't have existing student loans, but if she ends up needing loans for college, would filing separately potentially help her qualify for better repayment terms later? Or is that something that only matters if you already have loans with income-driven plans? Thanks for sharing your professional insight - it's really helping me understand the bigger picture here!

0 coins

Zara Khan

•

Yes, if you're living together and file separately, you'd both use "married filing separately" status - head of household wouldn't apply in your situation. Regarding future student loan repayment terms, filing separately could potentially help if she ends up needing federal loans and later enrolls in an income-driven repayment plan. These plans (like Income-Based Repayment or Pay As You Earn) calculate payments based on income and family size. If you file separately when she's repaying loans, only her income would be considered for the payment calculation, which could result in much lower monthly payments. However, there's a trade-off - while her payments might be lower, any loan forgiveness at the end of the repayment term (typically 20-25 years) could be treated as taxable income. So it's another long-term consideration to factor into your planning. The key is that this strategy works best when there's a significant income disparity between spouses, which sounds like it might apply to your situation given the income levels you mentioned.

0 coins

This is an incredibly thorough discussion! As someone who just went through this exact decision process last year, I want to add one more consideration that saved us from making a costly mistake. We were so focused on the FAFSA implications that we almost overlooked how filing separately would affect our health insurance premiums. My wife gets insurance through her employer, but I buy coverage through the ACA marketplace. When you file separately, the premium tax credits are calculated based only on your individual income, not household income. In our case, filing separately would have made me ineligible for any premium tax credits because my individual income was too high, even though our combined household income would have qualified us. This would have cost us about $4,800 more per year in health insurance premiums - completely wiping out any financial aid gains! I'd strongly recommend checking with your insurance situation before making this decision. If either of you gets coverage through the marketplace, filing separately could have major implications for your premium costs. The IRS has specific rules about how premium tax credits work with different filing statuses that aren't immediately obvious. It's just another reminder that this decision touches so many different aspects of your finances beyond just taxes and FAFSA. The tools and professional advice mentioned throughout this thread become even more valuable when you realize how many moving parts there are!

0 coins

Wow, the health insurance angle is something I never would have thought of! This really drives home how interconnected all these financial decisions are. I'm definitely going to need to check our marketplace situation before we make any moves. Reading through this entire thread has been eye-opening - there are so many factors I hadn't considered beyond just the basic tax vs financial aid calculation. The multi-year planning, state tax implications, future loan repayment considerations, and now health insurance premiums... it's like pulling one thread and realizing the whole sweater might unravel! I think the biggest takeaway for me is that this isn't a decision we can make in isolation or rush into, especially with the tax deadline approaching. It sounds like we really need to map out our complete financial picture and potentially work with a professional who can help us model all these different scenarios. Thanks to everyone who shared their real experiences - this has been incredibly valuable and probably saved us from making some expensive mistakes!

0 coins

Prev1...981982983984985...5643Next