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Ask the community...

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Emma Johnson

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Make sure to file your taxes on time even if you're missing the W2!! You can always file an amended return later if the numbers end up being different when you finally get the W2. The penalty for filing late is much worse than filing with slightly incorrect information and amending later.

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Ravi Patel

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This is really important advice! I made this mistake a few years ago waiting for a corrected W2 that my employer promised was "on the way" and got hit with late filing penalties that were completely avoidable.

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Khalid Howes

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I went through something very similar last year and here's what worked for me: Don't panic! You have several good options that others have mentioned. My recommendation is to start with calling the IRS at 800-829-1040 first thing Monday morning. They'll contact your employer directly and also send you Form 4852. While you're waiting for that form to arrive, gather your final paystub from that employer - you'll need the year-to-date totals for wages, federal tax withheld, Social Security, Medicare, and any state taxes. The key thing that helped me was realizing that the free filing software (I used FreeTaxUSA) does let you manually enter W2 information when you select "Enter W2 manually" instead of importing. You just enter the numbers from your Form 4852 exactly like you would a regular W2. One thing to keep in mind - if you end up owing money on your return, make sure to pay by the April deadline even if your return isn't completely finalized. You can always file an amended return later if needed, but avoiding late payment penalties is crucial. Don't let your employer's disorganization stress you out too much - the IRS deals with this situation all the time and has clear procedures to help taxpayers in your situation!

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Zara Malik

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Anyone know if TurboTax actually needs the information from these forms entered manually? Or do they just want to know which forms you have? Last year I remember answering questions about insurance but never entering anything from the actual 1095 forms.

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Luca Marino

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In my experience with TurboTax, they just ask if you had health insurance coverage and for what months. I didn't have to enter any specific information from my 1095 forms. The forms are more for your reference to answer the coverage questions correctly.

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Zara Rashid

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Just to add some clarity for future reference - the key difference is really about WHERE you got your insurance from: - 1095-A: You bought insurance through Healthcare.gov or your state's marketplace - 1095-B: You had insurance from a private company, Medicare, Medicaid, or other qualifying coverage - 1095-C: Your employer (with 50+ employees) offered you health insurance Since you have B and C forms, it sounds like you had employer-sponsored insurance. When TurboTax asks about the 1095-A, just answer "No" - you don't need to hunt for one because you wouldn't have received one with employer coverage. The forms are mainly there to help you answer TurboTax's questions about what months you had coverage. You typically don't need to enter specific details from the forms themselves, just use them to confirm your coverage periods were accurate.

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Has anyone tried the TaxAct import feature on FreeTaxUSA? I started my return on TaxAct but want to switch to FreeTaxUSA to save money. Will that help with this issue or just create more problems?

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I did this last year! The import feature works okay but isn't perfect. It got about 80% of my info transferred correctly, but I still had to go through and check everything. Some of my itemized deductions didn't come over properly. Honestly, if you're already part way through your return on TaxAct, it might be easier to just finish it there unless you're really trying to save on filing fees.

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Thanks for sharing your experience! That's really helpful. I'm only about halfway through on TaxAct, so maybe it is worth switching to save the $40+ difference in filing fees. I'll give the import a try and just carefully review everything.

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Nalani Liu

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I had the exact same issue with FreeTaxUSA last year! After spending way too much time looking for a delete button that doesn't exist, here's what I learned: The easiest approach is actually Option 2 that Riya mentioned - just go through your existing return section by section and fix what needs fixing. FreeTaxUSA's interface makes this pretty straightforward since you can jump between sections easily. If you're really concerned about accuracy, here's what I did: I printed out a summary of my first attempt, then went through each section systematically with my tax documents in hand. This way I could spot-check everything without losing the work I'd already done correctly. The review section at the end is really thorough too - it caught a couple small errors I missed during my manual review. Unless you made major structural mistakes (like filing status or number of dependents), you probably don't need to start completely over.

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Sophia Long

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This is really solid advice! I'm new to FreeTaxUSA and was getting overwhelmed thinking I'd have to redo everything from scratch. The idea of printing out a summary first is brilliant - gives you a roadmap to follow while double-checking each section. Quick question though - when you say "major structural mistakes," what exactly counts as that? I'm worried I might have selected the wrong filing status initially (chose single but I think I should be head of household). Is that the kind of thing where starting over would actually be worth it?

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Drake

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The 60-month calculation can be tricky, but it's worth getting right since it could save you hundreds or even thousands of dollars. You need to track your actual days of physical presence in the US, not just calendar time. Start with your initial entry date on F1 status and count forward 60 months (1,826 days), but subtract any days you were outside the US during that period. Those summer trips home definitely count against your presence, so if you were gone 3 weeks each year for 5 years, that's about 105 days total that would extend your exemption period. You can request your I-94 travel history from CBP's website (i94.cbp.dhs.gov) to get exact entry/exit dates if you don't have detailed records. This will give you the precise date when your FICA exemption ended. Given that your employer is just now discovering this issue, I'd be surprised if they did the calculation correctly the first time. Most HR departments just assume calendar years rather than doing the actual day-by-day count. Definitely worth double-checking their math!

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This is incredibly helpful! I had no idea about the CBP I-94 website - that's going to make tracking my exact travel dates so much easier. I've been trying to piece together my trips from old passport stamps and flight confirmations, but having the official entry/exit records will be much more accurate. You're absolutely right that most HR departments probably just use calendar years. I'm definitely going to do this calculation myself before meeting with them tomorrow. If my exemption period actually ended several months later than they calculated, that could make a huge difference in what I supposedly owe. Thanks for pointing me toward the official records - this gives me much more confidence going into that conversation with actual data to back up my position.

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Mae Bennett

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This is such a common issue with F1 visa holders! I work in payroll for a university and we see this mistake happen frequently, especially with smaller employers who aren't familiar with the 5-year exemption rules. A few additional things to consider that haven't been mentioned yet: 1. If your employer is calculating interest or penalties on what you "owe" them, push back on this. The IRS penalties and interest are their responsibility since they made the withholding error, not yours. 2. Make sure they're using the correct wage base for FICA calculations. There's a Social Security wage base cap each year (it was $142,800 for 2021, $147,000 for 2022, etc.), but Medicare has no cap. If you earned above these amounts, the calculation gets more complex. 3. Your employer should also be correcting their quarterly 941 forms for each affected period. This isn't just about getting money from you - they have compliance obligations to the IRS that need to be addressed properly. 4. Consider asking for documentation showing exactly how they calculated your exemption end date and the amounts owed. Given the complexity around the 60-month physical presence test that others mentioned, there's a good chance their initial calculation is wrong. The good news is this is fixable, and you have more leverage than you might think since it was their mistake to begin with!

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Mason Lopez

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This is exactly the kind of comprehensive advice I needed! I'm definitely going to ask for detailed documentation of their calculations before agreeing to anything. The point about the Social Security wage base cap is particularly important - I did earn over $142,800 in 2021, so that could significantly reduce what they think I owe for that year. I'm also glad you mentioned that any IRS penalties should be their responsibility. My employer initially made it sound like I'd be responsible for everything, including penalties, which seemed really unfair given that I had no way of knowing about this rule. Do you have any suggestions for how to approach this diplomatically with HR? I want to be cooperative but also make sure I'm not taken advantage of because of their mistake.

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Just want to echo what others have said about keeping meticulous records - this is SO important for homeowners! I learned this lesson when I got audited two years after buying my house and had to scramble to find documentation for various deductions. A few additional points that might help: **Moving expenses**: Unfortunately, these are no longer deductible for most people (only active military), so don't count on deducting your moving costs. **Home warranty costs**: These are generally not deductible, but if you have to make major repairs in your first year that aren't covered by warranty, those repair costs might be deductible under certain circumstances. **Escrow account**: Make sure you're only deducting property taxes and mortgage insurance that were actually PAID during the tax year, not just what went into escrow. Your mortgage servicer should provide a year-end statement breaking this down. **State-specific benefits**: Don't forget to check if your state offers any additional first-time homebuyer benefits or property tax exemptions. Some states have programs that aren't reflected on your federal return but can save you money on state taxes. The mortgage interest and property tax deductions alone often make itemizing worthwhile for new homeowners, especially in the first few years when interest payments are highest. Good luck with your filing!

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Jean Claude

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This is exactly the kind of comprehensive advice I wish I'd had when I bought my first home! The point about escrow vs. actually paid amounts is crucial - I made that mistake my first year and had to amend my return. One thing I'd add about state-specific benefits: some states also offer property tax deferrals or reductions for first-time buyers that can provide ongoing savings even if they don't directly affect your federal return. In my state, I qualified for a small property tax reduction that I didn't even know existed until my neighbor mentioned it. Also, regarding the home warranty costs you mentioned - while the warranty itself isn't deductible, if you end up paying out-of-pocket for repairs because something wasn't covered, those costs might qualify as home improvements that add to your basis (like the transfer taxes mentioned earlier) depending on whether they're repairs vs. improvements. The record-keeping advice can't be overstated. I started a simple spreadsheet with three columns: date, expense type, and amount, plus photos of all receipts stored in a dedicated folder on my phone. Makes tax time so much easier!

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One area that hasn't been fully covered yet is the timing of deductions for your first year of homeownership. Since you bought in April, you'll only be able to deduct mortgage interest and property taxes for the portion of the year you actually owned the home (April through December). Also, regarding your substantial closing costs - while most aren't immediately deductible, some items like prepaid interest, property taxes prorated to your ownership period, and any mortgage points ARE deductible in the year of purchase. Your closing disclosure should break these out clearly. A few other things to consider: **Property tax proration**: At closing, you likely paid the seller back for property taxes they prepaid for the portion of the year you'd own the home. This amount IS deductible on your return. **Title insurance**: Generally not deductible, but adds to your home's basis. **Home inspection fees**: Not deductible, but worth keeping the report for future reference if issues arise. Since you mentioned spending $7,500 on appliances and furniture, track those receipts! If you itemize and live in a state without income tax (or choose sales tax over state income tax), you can deduct the sales tax paid on these purchases. Make sure your lender sends you Form 1098 early next year - it will show your total mortgage interest and PMI payments for 2024, making your tax prep much easier. The mortgage interest alone might be enough to make itemizing worthwhile!

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