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Ask the community...

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Ravi Gupta

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I actually found a middle-ground approach that might work for you. While there's no free e-filing option for Form 1065, some of the paid e-file providers have partnership return options starting around $150-200, which might still be cheaper than hiring a full-service tax professional. I used TaxAct Business last year for my rental property LLC and found their interface pretty user-friendly for DIY filers. They walk you through the depreciation calculations and have good validation checks to catch errors before submission. FreeTaxUSA also has a business version that's reasonably priced. If you do go the paper route, definitely send it certified mail so you have proof of delivery. The IRS processing times for paper returns have gotten better recently, but it's still good to have that tracking confirmation. Also make sure you're using the most current forms from IRS.gov - I made that mistake one year and had to refile.

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Thanks for mentioning the middle-ground option! I've been looking at those paid e-file services but wasn't sure about the pricing. $150-200 is definitely more reasonable than the $800+ quotes I was getting from local CPAs. Do you know if TaxAct Business handles the depreciation calculations automatically, or do you still need to figure out the cost segregation and depreciation schedules yourself? That's honestly the part I'm most nervous about getting wrong on my rental property.

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Saleem Vaziri

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TaxAct Business does help with the depreciation calculations - it has built-in worksheets that guide you through the MACRS depreciation for rental property. You input your property details (cost basis, in-service date, etc.) and it calculates the depreciation automatically using the appropriate recovery periods. However, for cost segregation specifically, you'd still need to do that analysis yourself or hire a specialist. Most software assumes straight 27.5-year residential rental depreciation unless you provide the detailed breakdown. If your property value is substantial enough, a cost segregation study might be worth the investment since it can significantly accelerate your depreciation deductions in the early years. For a straightforward rental property without cost segregation, the software handles the depreciation pretty seamlessly. Just make sure you have good records of any improvements vs. repairs, as those are treated differently for tax purposes.

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One thing I haven't seen mentioned yet is that if you do decide to paper file, make sure you're aware of the signature requirements. For Form 1065, at least one general partner needs to sign and date the return. Since you mentioned it's an LLC with you and your spouse, you'll need to determine who is designated as the tax matters partner (or partnership representative under current rules) to sign the return. Also, don't forget about state filing requirements! Depending on your state, you may need to file a separate partnership return at the state level, and some states do offer e-filing options even when the federal return has to be paper filed. The state filing deadlines and requirements can be different from federal, so it's worth checking your state's tax authority website early in the process. If you're in a state with no state income tax, obviously this won't apply, but for most states you'll have additional paperwork beyond just the federal Form 1065.

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Tami Morgan

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This is really important information that I definitely hadn't considered! Thanks for bringing up the signature requirements - I need to figure out who should be designated as the partnership representative between my spouse and me. I'm actually in California, so I'll definitely need to look into the state partnership return requirements too. Do you happen to know if California allows e-filing for partnership returns even when you have to paper file federally? That would at least save some time on one of the filings. I'll check the FTB website, but if anyone has experience with CA partnership returns, I'd love to hear about it!

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Has anyone considered the flipside? If the tenant pays utilities directly, does that mean the TENANT can deduct those utilities somehow? Like as a home office deduction if they work from home? Just curious if there's any benefit to the tenant for paying utilities directly vs having them included in rent.

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Tenants generally can't deduct regular household utilities, even if they work from home. The home office deduction works differently - they could potentially deduct a PORTION of utilities based on the percentage of the home used exclusively for business. But that's true regardless of whether they pay utilities directly or if utilities are bundled into rent. The tenant doesn't get any special tax treatment just because they pay utilities directly vs having them included in rent. The only real difference is that with direct payment, they have more control over usage and can potentially save money by being more energy-conscious.

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Thanks for explaining that! Makes sense about the home office deduction being based on percentage of space rather than how the utilities are paid. Guess it doesn't really matter tax-wise after all. I was just wondering if there was some hidden benefit I was missing. Appreciate the clarification!

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I went through this exact same situation with my duplex rental last year. The bottom line is definitely no - you cannot deduct utilities that your tenant pays directly to the utility companies. The IRS is very clear that you can only deduct expenses that you actually paid out of pocket. However, don't let this discourage you from the tenant-pays-utilities arrangement! There are actually some advantages to this setup. You don't have to worry about tenants leaving lights on or cranking up the heat since they're paying the bill. Plus, you avoid the hassle of having to collect utility reimbursements or dealing with seasonal fluctuations in your cash flow. Just make sure you're capturing all the deductions you ARE entitled to - property management fees, repairs, maintenance, insurance, property taxes, depreciation, etc. Those can add up to significant savings even without the utility deductions.

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StarSeeker

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That's a great point about the advantages of having tenants pay utilities directly! I never thought about it from the cash flow perspective. I'm actually considering switching my rental arrangement to have tenants pay utilities directly for exactly those reasons - no more worrying about them blasting the AC all summer on my dime. Quick question though - when you made that switch, did you adjust the rent at all to account for the tenant now being responsible for utilities? I'm trying to figure out if I should lower the rent slightly since they're taking on that additional expense, or if the market rent should stay the same regardless of the utility arrangement.

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Ava Johnson

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Does anyone know if summer camps qualify for the Dependent Care FSA? My kids will be in day camp for 8 weeks this summer while we work.

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Miguel Diaz

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Yes! Day camps absolutely qualify for Dependent Care FSA reimbursement. My kids did soccer and science camps last summer and we used our DCFSA for those expenses. Just make sure it's a day program (overnight camps don't qualify). Also get receipts that clearly show the dates of service and the camp's tax ID number.

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I went through this exact same confusion last year! Here's what I wish someone had told me upfront: The process is: You pay daycare/nanny out of pocket → Submit receipts to your FSA administrator (through their website/app) → Get reimbursed to your bank account. Your employer sets up the FSA but a third-party company usually administers it. For your nanny situation - they absolutely qualify! No special license needed, just make sure you: 1. Get their SSN (you'll need it for receipts and tax forms) 2. Pay them legally (issue a W-2, pay employment taxes) 3. Keep detailed receipts with dates of service The money flows as you earn it through payroll deductions, so if you're putting in $5,000 over 12 months, you'll only have about $416 available after your first paycheck. Plan accordingly! One gotcha: Make sure your receipts include the provider's tax ID, specific service dates, and description of care. I had several claims rejected initially because my nanny's handwritten receipts were missing these details. The tax savings are real though - between federal, state, and FICA taxes, you'll likely save 25-30% on your childcare costs.

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Sofia Price

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This is such a comprehensive overview, thank you! I'm new to FSAs and was getting overwhelmed by all the rules. One quick question - when you mention paying the nanny "legally" with W-2s and employment taxes, is there a minimum threshold before you need to do all that paperwork? Our nanny only works about 15 hours a week so I wasn't sure if that changes anything with the tax requirements.

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Did anyone see if the IRS has specific guidance on this? I looked at Publication 550 and it says interest on CDs is taxable in the year actually or constructively received. I think what's happening with the OP's CD is that the interest is being accrued daily (calculated) but only credited (paid) in January. You're only taxed when it's credited, not as it accrues.

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NebulaNomad

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You're right about Publication 550. There's also a bit in there about "constructive receipt" which means if the interest was available to you even if you didn't take it, it's still taxable. For most CDs though, you can't access the interest without penalty until maturity or designated payment dates, so constructive receipt usually aligns with when the bank actually credits the interest.

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Ethan Wilson

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Just to add another perspective - I'm a tax preparer and see this confusion every tax season. The key thing to understand is that CD interest timing can vary significantly even within the same bank depending on the specific product. For your situation, since your balance didn't change until January 2025, you likely won't owe any taxes for 2024 on this CD. The bank will send you a 1099-INT that shows exactly what's taxable for each year. One tip for future CD purchases: always ask specifically about the "interest crediting schedule" before you buy. Some banks will let you choose between monthly, quarterly, or annual crediting, which can help with tax planning. Also, keep in mind that online CD rates often come with different crediting schedules than branch CDs, so don't assume they're the same. For your estimated tax payments as a self-employed person, I'd recommend waiting until you receive your 1099-INT forms in January to know exactly how much CD interest you'll need to account for in your quarterly payments.

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This is really helpful advice! I'm new to managing CDs and tax planning as a self-employed person, so I appreciate the practical tips. Just to clarify - when you say "interest crediting schedule," is that always clearly stated in the CD terms, or is it something I need to specifically ask about? Also, for someone just starting out with CDs, are there any red flags or confusing terminology I should watch out for when comparing different banks' CD products? I want to make sure I understand exactly what I'm getting into before committing to longer-term CDs.

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Guys - this is all overthinking it. If you're making under 100k, the amount of interest you'll earn on the withheld taxes is minimal compared to the hassle. Let's say you would get a $3000 refund and could instead earn 5% on that money throughout the year. That's only $150 before taxes. Is it really worth the stress of potentially miscalculating and owing penalties? Sometimes the peace of mind of knowing your taxes are handled is worth more than squeezing out every last dollar.

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AaliyahAli

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This is terrible advice. $150 might not seem like much to you, but that's money that could be working for you instead of the government. Plus, this is about developing good financial habits. Why would you voluntarily give an interest-free loan to anyone, let alone the government? The "hassle" is minimal once you set it up correctly.

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I've been doing this strategy for about 3 years now and wanted to share my experience. The key is finding the right balance - you don't want to underwithhold so much that you trigger penalties, but you also don't want to be too conservative and miss out on potential earnings. Here's what I learned: Start small your first year. I reduced my withholdings by about 15% and put that money into a high-yield savings account. I tracked everything carefully and made sure I still hit the safe harbor threshold. The second year, I got more aggressive and reduced by about 25%, investing the difference in a mix of CDs and money market accounts. The psychological aspect is huge though. You have to be disciplined enough to actually save/invest that money and not spend it. I set up automatic transfers to a separate "tax payment" account so I wouldn't be tempted to touch it. Last year I earned about $480 in interest that would have otherwise gone to the government as an interest-free loan. One tip: keep really good records of your calculations and payments. If you ever get questioned by the IRS, you want to be able to show you were following the rules intentionally, not just trying to avoid paying taxes.

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This is really helpful, thank you for sharing your actual experience! I'm in a similar situation where I've been getting refunds of around $2,500 each year and finally decided to do something about it. Your gradual approach makes a lot of sense - start conservative and then get more aggressive as you learn the system. Quick question about the record keeping - what specific documents do you keep track of? Just your W-4 changes and bank statements showing the money going into your tax account, or is there more to it? I want to make sure I'm covering all my bases if I go this route. Also, did you ever use any tools to help calculate the safe harbor amounts, or did you just work backwards from your previous year's tax return? I've seen some people mention online calculators but not sure if they're reliable.

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