I went through something similar last year and it turned out to be a combination of identity theft and poor record-keeping on Uber's part. Here's what I learned that might help: First, definitely follow the identity theft steps others mentioned - they're spot on. But also document EVERYTHING. Take screenshots of your Uber passenger account showing you've never been a driver, save all your ride receipts, and print your account history. When you call Uber's fraud department, ask them to pull up both your passenger account AND check if there's a separate driver account using your SSN. In my case, someone had created a driver account with my SSN but different contact info. Uber's systems didn't flag this as suspicious because they treat passenger and driver accounts separately. Also, check if you've moved recently or had mail forwarded. Sometimes identity thieves use old addresses to sign up for gig work, then change the payout method once they're approved. The good news is that once I provided all this documentation, both Uber and the IRS were very responsive. It took about 6 weeks total to get everything resolved, but I didn't end up owing any taxes on income I never received. Don't let this stress you out too much - it's definitely fixable, just requires some patience and thorough documentation.

The wallet theft 8 months ago could definitely be the source! That's exactly the kind of incident that leads to this type of identity theft. Even though you replaced your cards and monitored credit, thieves often sit on stolen personal information for months before using it. All the services I used were completely free - Uber's fraud department, IRS Form 14039, police reports, etc. The only thing that cost money was getting additional copies of my credit reports, but even those are free once per year. For documentation, I collected: - Screenshots of my entire Uber passenger account history - All ride receipts I could find in my email - A formal statement from Uber confirming no legitimate driver account existed in my name - The fraudulent driver account details Uber found (which had my SSN but different phone/email) - Police report from when my wallet was stolen - Timeline showing the wallet theft preceded the fraudulent account creation Uber actually provided the formal statement voluntarily once their fraud team investigated. They were very cooperative because they don't want fraudulent drivers on their platform either. The key was being persistent but polite, and having all my passenger history ready to prove I was a legitimate customer, not someone trying to hide income. The stolen wallet connection will probably help your case significantly - make sure to mention that timeline when you call Uber tomorrow.

As a newcomer to this community, I'm really grateful for how thoroughly everyone has explained these Roth IRA contribution rules! The key insight that finally clicked for me is that it's all about your **earned income** from working - not your AGI or taxable income after deductions. Your situation with $8,420 in W-2 wages is actually incredibly advantageous for retirement savings. You can contribute up to $7,000 to a Roth IRA for 2024 (if under 50), and you're getting an amazing combination of benefits that many people never experience: 1. **Zero current tax cost** - Since your taxable income is $0 after the standard deduction, you're essentially making tax-free contributions to a tax-free growth account 2. **Potential Saver's Credit** - With your AGI, you could qualify for up to $1,000 back through Form 8880 just for saving for retirement 3. **Decades of tax-free growth** - Every dollar you contribute now will compound completely tax-free until retirement This is honestly one of the best retirement savings scenarios possible! Even if you can't contribute the full $7,000, any amount you can put in while you're in this favorable tax position will pay huge dividends over time. You have until April 15, 2025 to make 2024 contributions, so there's still time to take advantage of this opportunity. Don't let the confusion about AGI vs. taxable income hold you back - focus on maximizing this incredible chance to build wealth while your effective tax rate is essentially zero!

As a newcomer to this community and retirement planning, this thread has been absolutely incredible! I'm so grateful for how clearly everyone has explained that **earned income** is what matters for Roth IRA contributions - not AGI or taxable income after deductions. Your situation with $8,420 in earned income from your part-time job is actually a dream scenario for retirement savings. You can contribute up to $7,000 to a Roth IRA for 2024 (assuming you're under 50), and you're getting what I'm now calling the "retirement savings trifecta": 1. **Zero tax cost now** - Your taxable income is $0 after the standard deduction, so you pay nothing in taxes on Roth contributions 2. **Money back through Saver's Credit** - You could get up to $1,000 back via Form 8880 just for saving for retirement 3. **Decades of tax-free growth** - Every dollar grows completely tax-free until retirement This combination is so rare and powerful! Most people either pay taxes now (traditional IRA) or later (Roth), but you're essentially getting both current AND future tax benefits. It's like finding a financial cheat code. Even if you can only contribute $1,000-2,000 while maintaining an emergency fund, you'd still benefit from this incredible tax situation. And remember, you have until April 15, 2025 to make 2024 contributions. Don't overthink the numbers on your tax return - focus on this amazing opportunity to build wealth while your effective tax rate is zero!

Just to add another perspective - even though you're likely under the reporting thresholds, it's still super smart to track everything from day one! I started my photography side hustle thinking I'd make nothing, but it grew faster than expected. Having good records from the beginning made tax time so much easier when I did cross the $400 threshold. Plus, if you ever want to grow your jewelry business or apply for small business loans later, having that financial history is really valuable. You can use something as simple as a spreadsheet or even a notes app to track sales and expenses. Good luck with your Etsy shop!

Thanks everyone for all the helpful advice! This community is amazing. Just to summarize what I've learned: since I'm expecting to make under $400 in net profit from my jewelry business, I likely won't need to file for self-employment taxes federally. But I should still check Arizona's specific requirements (sounds like I'll be fine there too since it's tied to federal filing). The key thing everyone keeps mentioning is tracking everything from the start - income AND expenses like materials, tools, packaging, etc. Even if I don't need to file this year, having good records will help if my business grows. I'm definitely going to set up a simple spreadsheet to track sales and costs. Really appreciate everyone taking the time to help a tax newbie! 😊

Just wanted to share my experience as someone who's been through this exact situation. I'm a small business owner (home renovation services) and put my logo on my brother-in-law's dirt track car three years ago. The documentation requirements everyone mentioned are absolutely critical, but I'd also suggest thinking about the optics from an audit perspective. When I set this up, I made sure to: 1. Pay the same rate other local businesses were paying for similar car sponsorships (I called around to get comparable rates) 2. Create a separate "advertising" line item in my books rather than burying it in general expenses 3. Take photos not just of the logo, but of the crowds at races to show potential audience size 4. Keep a simple log of any business inquiries that mentioned seeing my logo at the track The IRS did select me for an audit two years later (unrelated issue), but when they reviewed this expense, they had no problems with it because I had treated it like any other business advertising contract. The auditor actually commented that my documentation was better than most legitimate advertising expenses they see. One tip: consider starting smaller your first year and scaling up if it proves effective. Shows business judgment rather than just writing a big check to family. Good luck!

This is such a common scenario for family business owners! I've seen this situation come up frequently in my accounting practice. The advice about documentation is spot-on, but I'd also recommend considering the broader marketing strategy aspect. Before moving forward, ask yourself: Would you genuinely choose race car advertising if your brother wasn't involved? If the answer is yes, then you're probably on solid ground. If it's primarily about supporting family, the IRS will likely see through that. One additional point - make sure you're prepared to explain this expense in the context of your overall marketing mix. If this represents 50% of your total advertising budget but you have no other documented marketing efforts, that could raise red flags. The expense should make sense within your broader business development strategy. Also, consider creating a simple business case document that outlines your target demographic, expected reach, and success metrics. This shows business planning rather than just family support. Keep track of any networking opportunities or business cards exchanged at races too - these help demonstrate legitimate business purpose beyond just logo visibility. The family relationship doesn't disqualify the deduction, but it does mean you need to be extra thorough in treating this as a genuine business transaction.

I had a similar situation with multiple jobs and excessive withholding. What really helped me was understanding that when you check Step 2 Option C, the system essentially treats each job as if it's your highest-paying position and calculates withholding accordingly. This creates a "double penalty" where both jobs withhold at higher rates. Here's what worked for me: I used the IRS Tax Withholding Estimator (it's free on their website) and entered information from both jobs. It showed me exactly how much should be withheld total, then I was able to adjust my W-4s accordingly. In my case, I ended up putting a specific dollar amount in Step 4(b) on my higher-paying job's W-4 to reduce withholding, while keeping the lower-paying job's W-4 at standard withholding. The key is to think of your total tax situation across both jobs rather than treating each W-4 separately. You're probably going to get a huge refund if you keep the current setup, which means you're essentially giving the government an interest-free loan all year.

The excessive withholding you're experiencing is unfortunately very common with multiple jobs, and you're right to question it! When you check Step 2 Option C, both employers calculate withholding as if that job alone puts you in a higher tax bracket, which creates significant overwithholding. Here's a practical approach that has worked well for many people: Keep Option C checked on your higher-paying job ($60k), but on your lower-paying job ($25k), switch to leaving Step 2 blank or use the Multiple Jobs Worksheet instead. This prevents the "stacking" effect where both jobs assume the worst-case scenario for your tax bracket. Also, don't forget that you can adjust your withholding mid-year! If you're consistently seeing $400+ in federal withholding on a $2,350 paycheck, you're likely on track for a massive refund. While that might feel good in April, you're essentially giving the government an interest-free loan of your money all year long. I'd recommend running your numbers through the IRS Tax Withholding Estimator with both paystubs handy - it'll give you a much more accurate picture of what you should actually be withholding based on your combined income and help you avoid that rent-sized chunk disappearing from every paycheck.