Just to clarify something important - if your earnings from this company were over $600 for the year, they are actually REQUIRED by law to send you a 1099. You might want to follow up with them more firmly or contact the IRS to report them, especially if this is affecting multiple contractors as they indicated. You can still file your taxes correctly without the form as others have mentioned, but the company is definitely not following proper tax procedure here. "Issues with their bank" is not a valid excuse for failing to meet tax documentation requirements.

I've been through this exact situation and wanted to share what worked for me. When a company failed to provide my 1099 despite earning over $2,000 from them, I took a two-pronged approach. First, I filed my taxes accurately using my own records just like everyone here has mentioned - reported all income on Schedule C through my tax software (I used H&R Block but the process is the same). The key is being meticulous with your documentation. Second, I filed Form SS-8 with the IRS to get a determination on my worker status, since companies sometimes claim "contractor" to avoid proper tax reporting. Turns out I should have been classified as an employee, which explained why they were dodging the 1099 requirement. Even if your classification was correct, you can still file Form 3949-A to report tax law violations. The IRS takes missing 1099s seriously because it affects their ability to match income reports. Don't let them off the hook - their "accounting system issues" excuse doesn't hold water legally. Keep pushing them for the proper documentation while filing with your own records. You're doing everything right by reporting the income regardless of their failures.

One thing nobody mentioned yet - make sure your mileage tracking is ACCURATE before claiming it. Medicaid can check with the IRS if something seems off. I got flagged last year because I was claiming too many business miles compared to my income. Turns out I had my tracking app running sometimes when I wasn't actually working. Super embarrassing and delayed my coverage by almost 2 months while they investigated. Some tips: - Only track when you're actively working (app on, accepting rides) - Keep good records of start/end odometer readings - Be realistic about business percentage (75% business use is pretty high unless you literally only use your car for Uber

Just to add another perspective - I've been doing rideshare for 3 years and have gone through Medicaid renewals twice. The standard mileage deduction is definitely the way to go for your P&L. One thing that helped me was keeping a simple log that showed: - Date - Starting odometer reading - Ending odometer reading - Total miles driven that day - Business miles (from my tracking app) - Personal miles (difference) This backup documentation made my caseworker really happy because it showed I was being methodical about separating business vs personal use. Even though you mentioned 75% business use, just make sure you can justify that percentage if asked. For your tire situation - don't worry about it! The standard mileage rate already accounts for wear and tear, repairs, and maintenance. That's exactly why it exists - to simplify things like this. Your tire replacement is already "covered" in that 67 cents per mile. Good luck with your application!

One additional point to consider that hasn't been mentioned much - if your family loan extends into multiple tax years, both you and your uncle need to be consistent about how you handle the reporting each year. I had a situation where my aunt loaned me money for graduate school over a 4-year repayment period, and we had to make sure she reported the interest income every year she received it, even when the amounts varied based on my payment schedule. Also, keep copies of all your payment records (bank transfers, checks, etc.) and the original loan agreement together in one file. If either of you ever gets audited, having that complete documentation package makes the process much smoother. The IRS likes to see that family loans are treated with the same formality as commercial loans. One last tip - consider setting up automatic payments if possible. It creates a consistent paper trail and ensures you don't accidentally miss payments, which could complicate the loan's legitimacy if questioned later. Good luck with your car purchase!

This thread has been incredibly helpful! I'm a tax preparer and wanted to add a few professional insights that might help clarify some points that have been discussed. First, regarding the 1099-INT question - you're absolutely correct that as an individual borrower, you don't issue these forms. The confusion often comes from people thinking about it backwards - borrowers don't give tax forms to lenders, it's the other way around when banks report interest they've paid TO you. On the AFR (Applicable Federal Rate) issue that several people mentioned - this is crucial and I'm glad it came up. The IRS publishes these rates monthly, and for December 2024, the short-term AFR is 4.57%. Since your proposed 3% rate is below this, the difference could be considered a gift. However, for a $15,000 loan, we're talking about roughly $235 in "foregone interest" annually, which is well below the $18,000 annual gift exclusion limit. One thing I always tell clients: even if the AFR creates a minor gift issue, it's often better to have a rate that works for your family situation and properly report any gift implications rather than avoiding family loans altogether. The paperwork is manageable and the savings compared to commercial rates usually make it worthwhile. Make sure your loan agreement includes a default provision and payment schedule - this really helps establish legitimacy if the IRS ever reviews the arrangement.

Just wanted to add one more perspective from someone who went through this exact situation. I'm 34 and was similarly frustrated with my company's 401k options (high fees, limited fund choices). After reading through all the comments here, I decided to dig deeper into my plan documents using some of the tools mentioned. Turns out my plan had a provision I'd never noticed - they allow in-service distributions for "diversification purposes" once you reach age 35 AND have been in the plan for at least 3 years. The key was in the fine print of our Summary Plan Description under a section called "Special Distribution Rules." It wasn't something HR mentioned during onboarding, and when I initially called our plan administrator, they only mentioned the standard 59½ rule. My advice: Don't just take the first "no" as final. Get the complete plan document (not just the summary), and if needed, escalate to a supervisor at your plan administrator. Sometimes the first person you talk to doesn't know all the special provisions in your specific plan. I was able to roll over about 40% of my balance to a low-cost index fund portfolio at Vanguard last month. The process took about 3 weeks once I got the paperwork started.

Great question! Your 401k provider is correct about the general IRS restrictions on in-service rollovers for employees under 59½. However, there are several potential exceptions that many people (and even some plan administrators) aren't fully aware of. The key is that each 401k plan can have its own specific provisions beyond the basic IRS rules. Here are some things to investigate: 1. **After-tax contributions**: If your plan allows after-tax (non-Roth) contributions, these can often be rolled over at any time, even while employed. This enables "mega backdoor Roth" strategies. 2. **Rollover contributions**: Money you previously rolled into your current 401k from a previous employer may be eligible for in-service distribution. 3. **Age-based provisions**: Some plans allow partial distributions once you reach certain ages (like 35) combined with tenure requirements. 4. **Employer contribution vesting**: Some plans allow distribution of fully vested employer contributions after they've been in the plan for a specified period. I'd strongly recommend getting your complete Summary Plan Description (SPD) - not just the summary handout - and look specifically for sections on "in-service withdrawals," "distributions while employed," or "special distribution rules." Sometimes these provisions are buried in the fine print. If the first person you talk to at your plan administrator says no, ask to speak with someone who specializes in distributions or escalate to a supervisor. The front-line representatives don't always know about the more nuanced provisions in specific plans.

Three weeks is definitely too long for a SBTPG check - you need to call them immediately! I went through this exact situation a few months ago and it was so stressful not knowing where my refund was. Call 800-901-6663 and have your SSN, exact refund amount, and filing information ready for verification. Ask them specifically to do a "check trace" - this will tell you if the check was delivered, returned to them, or lost somewhere in the postal system. Also make sure to verify that the mailing address they have on file matches your tax return exactly. Even small differences like missing apartment numbers or different street abbreviations can cause major delivery delays. The frustrating part is if they determine it's truly lost, they'll make you wait the full 30 days from when it was originally mailed before they'll cancel and reissue a replacement. But don't wait any longer to start this process - better to get that timeline going now rather than continue wondering. I know how nerve-wracking it is waiting for your refund money, but these situations do get resolved! In my case, the check eventually showed up about a week after I called and they put the trace on it. Hang in there and call them first thing tomorrow!

Three weeks is way too long - you definitely need to call SBTPG immediately! I had a similar situation last year where my check never showed up after 2.5 weeks. When I finally got through to customer service at 800-901-6663, they found out it had been misdelivered to the wrong street address. Make sure you have your SSN, exact refund amount, and all your tax filing info ready when you call - they'll need to verify everything before they can help you. Ask them specifically to do a check trace so they can tell you if it was delivered somewhere, returned to them, or lost in the mail. Also double-check that the address they have on file matches your tax return exactly - I mean down to every single detail like apartment numbers and street abbreviations. Even tiny differences can cause major delivery problems. The annoying part is if it's truly lost, they'll make you wait 30 days from when it was originally mailed before they'll cancel and reissue. But don't wait any longer to start this process - better to get that timeline going now than keep wondering what happened. I know it's super stressful when your refund money seems to vanish, but these situations usually do get resolved! In my case, once they put the trace on it, the postal service found my check and delivered it within a few days. Good luck and call them tomorrow!