Don't forget about currency conversion fees! When I transferred my savings from Europe, my bank charged me an outrageous amount. Check if your bank has a partner bank in the US - sometimes they offer better rates. Or use a service like Wise or OFX for better exchange rates. I ended up losing almost $800 in fees and bad exchange rates because I didn't look into this first!!

One thing I haven't seen mentioned yet is the timing of when you transfer the money. If you're planning to transfer a large amount, consider spreading it across multiple smaller transfers over a few months rather than one big lump sum. This can help avoid triggering automated bank reporting systems that might flag large international transfers. Also, make sure to keep records of the exchange rates on the day you transfer - you might need this information for tax purposes later. The IRS uses specific exchange rates for different dates, and having your own documentation can save headaches if there are any questions about the USD equivalent value of your foreign earnings. Finally, if you haven't already, consider opening your US bank account first and letting it "season" with smaller deposits before doing the big transfer. Some banks are more comfortable with large international transfers when they already have a relationship with you.

This is actually ideal! A small refund means you had access to more of your money throughout the year instead of giving Uncle Sam an interest-free loan. I always aim for owing/receiving less than $100 when I file. If you want a bigger refund next year, you can adjust your W-4 to withhold more from each paycheck. But personally I'd rather have that money in my bank account earning interest all year.

Congrats on having such accurate withholding! I know it feels disappointing when you're expecting a bigger refund, but a $12 refund actually means your payroll department nailed it almost perfectly. One thing to double-check though - make sure you claimed all eligible deductions and credits. Did you contribute to a traditional IRA or 401k? Any student loan interest payments? Charitable donations? Sometimes people miss these and leave money on the table. Also, tax laws do change from year to year, so what gave you a bigger refund in previous years might not apply anymore. The standard deduction has increased significantly in recent years, which is generally good, but it also means some itemized deductions that used to help might not be as beneficial now. If everything checks out, then honestly you should feel good about this! Your withholding was spot-on, which means you had more money in your paychecks throughout the year instead of giving the government an interest-free loan.

I think there's some confusion here. I run an LLC too and I have to get W-9s from all my clients before I can work with them. My accountant said it's required!!

I went through this exact same confusion when I transitioned from solo contractor to LLC with employees! The key thing to remember is that W-9s flow in the direction of payments - you collect them from people you PAY, not from people who pay you. As an LLC with employees and contractors, here's what you need to do: 1. Collect W-9s from your independent contractors (before you pay them) so you can issue 1099-NECs if you pay them $600+ annually 2. Have your own completed W-9 ready to provide to clients who request it (usually larger businesses that might need to issue you a 1099) 3. You generally don't need W-9s from regular customers who buy your products or services The confusion often comes from remembering when you were a solo contractor - back then, you were providing YOUR W-9 to the businesses that hired you. Now that you're the business owner, the roles have flipped. You're collecting W-9s from contractors you hire, and providing yours only when clients specifically request it. This is a really common point of confusion for growing businesses, so don't feel bad about needing clarification!

One thing that might help clarify this - think of it as two separate tax systems that don't really "talk" to each other during the calculation process. Your federal tax is calculated on your full gross income ($135k in your case), and your state tax is also calculated on that same gross income. The only place they interact is if you choose to itemize deductions on your federal return, where you can deduct up to $10,000 of state and local taxes paid. But with the current standard deduction amounts, most people come out ahead just taking the standard deduction anyway. So to directly answer your question - neither is calculated "first." They're calculated independently on your gross income, and then you get to choose the most beneficial approach (standard vs itemized) when filing your federal return.

Just to add some practical perspective here - I went through this exact confusion when I started making similar income. The key thing that helped me was realizing that your employer's payroll system handles the withholdings simultaneously, but your annual tax liability is calculated separately for each jurisdiction. For planning purposes at your $135k income level, you'll likely pay federal tax on the full amount (after standard deduction of around $14,600 for 2025), and state tax on the full amount too. The withholdings from your paycheck should roughly balance out what you owe when you file, assuming your W-4 is filled out correctly. One tip: if your state tax rate is 9.5% like you mentioned, you might want to run the numbers on itemizing vs standard deduction. With high state taxes plus any mortgage interest, charitable donations, etc., you could potentially exceed the standard deduction threshold and benefit from itemizing (which would let you deduct up to $10k of those state taxes).

I went through almost the exact same situation last year with a large bonus and back pay! The key insight from @Thais Soares is spot on - the IRS calculator often double-counts bonuses if you enter them both in your YTD totals AND in the separate bonus section. Here's what worked for me: I only included my bonus/back pay in the YTD earnings and YTD withholding amounts, but left the bonus section blank. This gave me a much more realistic picture of what I actually owed. Also, since you mentioned you prefer getting a refund rather than owing - consider that bonuses are typically withheld at the 22% supplemental rate, which might actually be higher than your regular tax bracket. If you had ANY federal withholding on those special payments, you're probably in better shape than the calculator initially showed. One more tip: make sure you're entering your 401k, HSA, and other pre-tax deductions correctly. These can significantly reduce your tax liability, especially when you have a higher income year due to bonuses. Don't panic about the $9,000 figure - that's almost certainly an error in how the data was entered. Try the method @Thais suggested and I bet you'll see a much more reasonable number!

I just wanted to add another perspective as someone who works in payroll - the confusion you're experiencing with the IRS withholding estimator is incredibly common, especially when bonuses are involved. One thing that might help is understanding that when you received your bonus and back pay, your payroll system likely treated them as "supplemental wages" and withheld at the flat 22% rate (or possibly used the aggregate method if they were combined with regular pay). This is actually separate from your regular withholding calculation. The issue many people run into with the estimator is that it's trying to project your entire year's tax situation, but it can get confused when you have irregular payments that were already subject to different withholding rules. Before making any drastic changes to your W-4, I'd suggest running the numbers one more time using the method @Thais Soares and @Taylor Chen mentioned - include everything in your YTD totals but don't double-enter the bonus. Also, grab your most recent paystub and make absolutely sure you're entering your year-to-date federal withholding correctly, including what was taken from those special payments. If you're still getting scary numbers after that, it might be worth having a tax professional take a quick look at your situation. Sometimes a fresh set of eyes can spot an input error that's throwing everything off.