Just a heads up for anyone still looking - if you moved during the year and had marketplace coverage in different states, you might need 1095-A forms from multiple marketplaces! I learned this the hard way when I moved from California to Texas mid-year. Had to log into both Covered California and the federal marketplace to get both forms. Something to keep in mind if your situation was similar!

Pro tip: if you're having trouble accessing your healthcare.gov account (forgot password, security questions, etc.), you can also call the marketplace customer service and they can mail you a paper copy of your 1095-A. It takes longer but it's a good backup option if you're locked out of your online account. They'll verify your identity over the phone and send it to your address on file. Just make sure to give yourself enough time before the tax deadline!

Just to add another perspective on the digital storage question that several people have asked about - I've been using a hybrid approach that's worked really well. I scan everything to PDF, but then store the files on an encrypted external hard drive that I keep in a fireproof safe at home, plus upload encrypted copies to two different cloud services (Google Drive and Dropbox) as backup. For encryption, I use 7-Zip to create password-protected archives of each year's tax documents before uploading anywhere. The password is something only I know, so even if someone hacked my cloud accounts, they'd just get encrypted files they can't open. One thing I learned from my CPA: definitely keep records related to any Roth IRA conversions indefinitely. Those basis records are crucial for avoiding double taxation when you eventually withdraw from your Roth in retirement. Same goes for any backdoor Roth conversions if you do those. Also, if anyone is dealing with tax documents from a deceased spouse or parent, keep those records much longer - the IRS can audit estates for up to 3 years after the estate tax return is filed, and some estate-related issues can come up years later during probate or property transfers.

Based on all the great advice here, I wanted to share what finally worked for me after going through this same situation. The key is having a systematic approach rather than just keeping everything "just in case." Here's the retention schedule I follow now: - Regular tax returns: 3 years minimum, but I keep 6 years to be safe - Returns with significant deductions or business income: 7 years - Property-related documents: Until 3 years after you sell the property - Roth IRA conversions and basis records: Forever - Investment records with carryforward losses: Until all carryforwards are used For disposal, absolutely shred everything - tax returns are goldmines for identity thieves. I use a Fellowes crosscut shredder that handles about 12 sheets at a time, and it's been worth every penny. The game-changer for me was going digital first. Now I scan everything when I file each year, store encrypted copies in cloud storage, then only keep the current year's paper copies in my filing cabinet. After the retention period expires, I shred the physical documents but keep the digital copies indefinitely since storage is cheap. One last tip: if you're ever unsure about a specific document, you can request your tax transcripts from the IRS website to verify what they have on file before shredding anything. It's free and gives you peace of mind.

Just went through this exact same situation last month! I over-contributed by about $2,800 when I switched jobs mid-year. Here's what worked for me: 1. Called my current 401k provider (not the old one) and explained I exceeded the annual limit due to job change 2. They handled everything - calculated the excess plus earnings and processed the corrective distribution 3. Got my 1099-R about 10 days later 4. Filed my taxes normally, reporting the excess distribution as income for 2024 The key thing that surprised me was that the earnings on the excess contribution get taxed in the year you receive the distribution (2024), not 2023. So make sure you understand that when you get your 1099-R. Don't stress too much - this is super common and the 401k providers deal with it all the time. Just make sure you get it handled before April 15th to avoid the double taxation issue that @Haley Bennett mentioned for previous years.

I just want to echo what others have said about not panicking - this is definitely fixable! I went through this exact scenario two years ago when I switched from a startup to a larger company mid-year. One thing I'd add that hasn't been mentioned yet is to double-check if either of your employers offers a "safe harbor" provision where they automatically return excess contributions. Some larger companies have systems that catch this automatically, but since you switched jobs, it's less likely they would have caught it. Also, when you call your current 401k provider, ask them about the timeline for processing. Mine took about 3 weeks to process the corrective distribution, so factor that into your tax filing plans. If you're cutting it close to April 15th, definitely consider that extension like you mentioned. The good news is once you get through this, you'll be much more aware of contribution limits for future job changes. I now track my contributions monthly in a simple spreadsheet to avoid this happening again!

Try clearing your cache and cookies before logging in. Sometimes that fixes the 6000 error. Worked for me last year!

Error 6000 is super frustrating! I had the same issue last month. If clearing cache doesn't work, try using a different browser or incognito mode. Also make sure you're using the direct IRS.gov link and not going through any third-party sites. Sometimes the verification system gets confused if you've been bouncing between different entry points. The 7-10 day wait for the letter is accurate in my experience - got mine on day 9.

One thing I learned the hard way - if you're buying these muni ETFs in a retirement account like a Roth IRA, you're basically wasting the tax advantage! Since Roth IRAs are already tax-free on withdrawal, putting tax-exempt bonds in there means you're getting lower yields for no additional tax benefit. I had VTEB in my Roth for years before realizing this mistake. Munis generally have lower yields than taxable bonds of similar quality because of their tax advantages. Better to hold taxable bonds in tax-sheltered accounts and save your muni investments for taxable accounts.

Great question! One additional consideration that might help with your decision-making is looking at the taxable equivalent yield of these muni ETFs based on your specific tax situation. For example, if you're in the 24% federal tax bracket and live in a state with 6% income tax, a muni bond yielding 3% might be equivalent to a taxable bond yielding around 4.3% when you factor in the tax savings. This helps you compare whether the muni ETF is actually worth it versus just buying a regular bond ETF. There are online calculators that can help you figure out your specific taxable equivalent yield based on your federal and state tax brackets. This becomes especially important if you're in lower tax brackets where the tax benefits might not justify the typically lower yields of municipal bonds. Also worth noting - if you live in a high-tax state like California or New York, the state tax exemption benefits become much more valuable, making state-specific muni funds potentially more attractive than broad national funds like VTEB or MUB.