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I'm seeing a lot of complicated answers here but it's actually pretty simple. I've owned 3 homes and here's what I've learned: if you didn't pay it, you don't deduct it. The seller credit on closing is just an adjustment to make the sale fair - it's not income and it's not a deduction. When you actually pay the property taxes in 2025, that's when you deduct them - regardless of what period they cover.
Thanks for this simple explanation. I was overthinking it completely. So just to confirm - even though the seller gave me money for their portion of the taxes, when I pay the full bill next year, I still deduct the entire amount?
Exactly right, Sofia! You deduct the entire amount you pay in 2025. Think of it this way - the seller credit essentially reduced what you paid for the house, so when you pay the full tax bill, you're paying for the full year of ownership responsibility. The IRS doesn't care that part of those taxes were "economically" the seller's - they only care about the actual cash payments you make to the tax authority.
As a first-time homeowner myself, I went through this exact confusion last year! You're absolutely right - since you didn't make any actual property tax payments in 2024, there's nothing to deduct on your 2024 return. The key thing to remember is that property tax deductions are based on the cash basis - meaning you can only deduct what you actually paid out, not what was assessed or owed. That seller credit you received at closing isn't taxable income to you, it's just an adjustment to make the transaction fair since you'll be paying the full year's taxes when they come due. When February 2025 rolls around and your escrow company pays those property taxes, you'll be able to deduct the full amount on your 2025 tax return. Keep your escrow statements and closing documents organized - you'll need them to show exactly what was paid and when. One tip: make sure to review your mortgage servicer's annual escrow analysis statement early next year. It will show exactly when property tax payments were made, which is crucial for determining the correct tax year for your deduction.
This is really helpful! I'm also a first-time homeowner and was worried I was missing out on a deduction this year. Quick question - when you say to keep the escrow analysis statement, should I be looking for a specific form or document name? My mortgage company sends me so many different statements and I want to make sure I'm saving the right one for tax purposes.
Has anyone actually calculated the total difference between employer pretax health insurance vs marketplace plans when considering ALL factors? I'm in similar situation but also wondering about: 1. Quality of network (my employer plan sucks) 2. Premium differences 3. Tax implications 4. Out-of-pocket differences My employer takes $515/month pretax but the deductible is $7000! Marketplace plan is $560/month but deductible only $3500. Trying to figure out total cost including taxes.
The pretax employer premium at $515/month saves you roughly 30% in taxes depending on your tax bracket (federal + FICA). So that's about $154/month in tax savings. Marketplace: $560/month = $6,720/year Employer: $515/month = $6,180/year Tax savings with employer: ~$1,854/year So financially, your marketplace plan costs about $2,394 more annually when including lost tax benefits. BUT, the $3,500 lower deductible could make up for that if you expect to need significant healthcare. If you hit both deductibles, the marketplace plan would actually save you about $1,106 annually.
One thing to consider that hasn't been mentioned yet is whether your employer offers a Health Savings Account (HSA) option with their high-deductible health plan. If they do, that's another significant tax advantage you'd lose by going to marketplace coverage. HSA contributions are triple tax-advantaged: deductible going in, grow tax-free, and withdrawals for qualified medical expenses are tax-free. For 2025, you can contribute up to $4,300 for individual coverage or $8,550 for family coverage. This could potentially offset some of the higher deductible concerns while maximizing your tax benefits. Also worth checking if your employer contributes anything to an HSA on your behalf - that's essentially free money you'd be giving up. Some employers contribute $500-2000 annually to employee HSAs, which changes the math considerably when comparing total compensation packages. If HSA isn't available with your current plan, that might actually strengthen the case for switching to marketplace coverage, especially if you can find an HSA-eligible high-deductible plan there.
This is a really important point about HSAs that I hadn't considered! I don't think my employer offers an HSA option with their plan - it's just a regular PPO with high premiums and high deductible (worst of both worlds honestly). @Madeline Blaze Do you know if marketplace plans can be HSA-eligible? I ve'heard mixed things about whether you can open your own HSA if you buy insurance outside of your employer. If I could get a high-deductible marketplace plan AND contribute to an HSA, that might actually make the math work out better even with the tax disadvantage on premiums. Also wondering if anyone knows - can you contribute to an HSA if you re'eligible for your employer s'health plan but choose not to take it? The HSA triple tax advantage sounds amazing if I can actually access it.
Does anyone know if this same approach works for other types of income? My 14yo son has a small YouTube channel that just started generating ad revenue, but they required my info since he's underage.
YouTube income is a bit different since it's typically reported on a 1099-K rather than a 1099-NEC. The nominee process would be similar, but there might be additional considerations around intellectual property and digital content creation. Your son's YouTube activity would likely be considered a business, so you'd still report it on Schedule C and then attribute it to him. Just make sure you keep good records of all channel-related expenses for deductions!
This is really helpful information! I had no idea there were specific exemptions for different types of work that minors do. My 17-year-old works as a camp counselor during summers and also does some pet-sitting through a neighborhood app. I'm wondering if there are other exemptions I should know about beyond the domestic service one that was mentioned for babysitting. It sounds like the type of work might make a difference in whether self-employment taxes apply or not. Does anyone know where I can find a comprehensive list of these exemptions for minors? Also, the Roth IRA idea is brilliant - I never thought about starting retirement savings this early but the compound growth potential is amazing. Definitely going to look into setting that up for my daughter once we get her tax situation sorted out.
Great questions about the exemptions! You're right that the type of work can make a big difference. From what I understand, there are several exemptions for minors under 18: 1. Domestic service (like babysitting, house cleaning) - exempt from self-employment tax 2. Newspaper delivery - traditionally exempt, though this is becoming less common 3. Work for parents' business - different rules apply depending on the business structure For camp counseling, that would typically be subject to self-employment tax since it's more of a professional service. Pet-sitting through an app might fall under domestic service depending on how it's structured. The IRS Publication 15 (Employer's Tax Guide) has some of this info, but honestly it can be pretty confusing to parse through. You might want to check with a tax professional or use one of those specialized tax analysis tools that others mentioned to make sure you're applying the right exemptions. And yes, definitely set up that Roth IRA! Starting at 17 with even small contributions could literally be worth hundreds of thousands more at retirement compared to starting in their 20s.
I completely understand your anxiety about this - the "jeopardy" language is definitely designed to get your attention! Here's what I'd recommend based on your situation: **Don't wait** - even though you're only waiting for one W2, that lien/levy notice means the IRS is ready to take action. A few key points: 1. **Call the IRS immediately** at the number on your notice. Explain you're waiting for a missing W2 and plan to file soon. They can often put a temporary hold (60-90 days) on collection actions. 2. **Request your wage transcript** from IRS.gov while you wait - this shows all reported W2 info and might have enough detail to file without the physical W2. 3. **Set up a minimal payment plan** if you can't reach them by phone. Even $25/month stops collection and shows good faith. Online setup is only $31 vs $107 by phone. The key thing is **communication** - the IRS doesn't know you plan to pay with your refund. From their perspective, you're just ignoring a debt. Once you make contact and explain your situation, they're usually reasonable about working with you. Don't risk a lien on your credit report over $650 - it's not worth the long-term damage for a relatively small amount. Take action today!
This is really solid advice, especially about calling them today. I had a similar situation a couple years ago and made the mistake of waiting "just another week" for some paperwork - ended up with way more complications than if I'd just called immediately. The temporary hold option is clutch if you can get through to them. And Dylan's right about the communication piece - the IRS agents are actually pretty reasonable when you proactively reach out versus them having to chase you down. They deal with people who completely ignore notices all day, so when someone calls to explain their situation, they're usually willing to work with you. One thing to add - if you do end up setting up that payment plan, you can always pay it off early once you get your refund. The plan just buys you time and stops the collection process.
I had almost this exact same situation last year - owed about $700 and got that scary "jeopardy" notice while waiting for a delayed 1099 from a freelance gig. The language in those notices is definitely designed to get you moving fast! Here's what worked for me: I called the IRS number on the notice (took about 2 hours on hold, but I got through). The agent was actually really understanding when I explained I was just waiting for tax documents. She put a 90-day collection hold on my account, which gave me plenty of time to get everything sorted out. The key thing they told me is that once you receive that "lien/levy warning," you're basically at the final stage before they take action. They don't know you're planning to use your refund to pay it off - from their system, it just looks like you're ignoring the debt. Don't stress too much about the $650 amount, but definitely don't ignore the timeline. Even setting up a $25/month payment plan online would stop the collection process immediately if you can't get through by phone. You can always pay it off in full once you file and get your refund. The worst thing you can do is nothing - I've seen people end up with liens over tiny amounts just because they thought it wasn't worth dealing with. Take care of it this week!
This is exactly the kind of real-world experience that helps! Two hours on hold is rough but definitely worth it to get that 90-day breathing room. I'm curious - when you called, did you have to provide any specific documentation or proof that you were waiting for tax documents, or did they just take your word for it? I'm planning to call tomorrow morning and want to be prepared with whatever info they might need. Also, did they give you any kind of confirmation number or paperwork about the collection hold, or was it just noted in their system? Thanks for sharing your experience - it's really reassuring to hear from someone who went through the same thing!
@223ee46b4e6f They didn't ask for any documentation when I called - they just took my word for it since I was being proactive about contacting them. I explained I was waiting for a specific W2 from my summer employer and gave them the company name and approximate dates I worked there. They did give me a confirmation number for the collection hold, which I wrote down immediately (wish I could remember it now, but it was something like a 10-digit number starting with "CH" - definitely keep whatever number they give you!). The agent also told me the exact date the hold would expire, which was super helpful for planning. Pro tip: when you call, have your Social Security number, the notice number from your letter, and the amount you owe ready. Also be prepared to explain exactly what documents you're waiting for and from whom. The more specific you can be, the more helpful they tend to be. Good luck with your call! The wait time sucks, but it's totally worth it to get that peace of mind and stop the collection process.
Vanessa Figueroa
Random question - can I use blue ink for the correction or does it have to be black? I know the IRS is picky about some of these details.
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Abby Marshall
ā¢Black ink is always preferred for IRS forms as it scans better, but blue ink is acceptable for corrections. Just make sure it's dark enough to be clearly visible if the form gets scanned or copied.
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Luca Romano
Thanks everyone for all the helpful advice! I went ahead and made the correction using the single line method that Paloma mentioned - drew a clean line through the wrong number, wrote the correct amount above it, and initialed with the date. The correction was pretty minor (just a few hundred dollars difference in my totals), so I didn't include an explanatory note. I also ended up checking my work with taxr.ai before submitting, and it confirmed that my correction was done properly and didn't find any other issues. Really glad I found this thread before panicking and ordering a new form! Submitting everything today and feeling much more confident about it.
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Christopher Morgan
ā¢That's great to hear it worked out! I'm a newcomer here but have been dealing with similar form correction anxiety. Quick question - when you initialed and dated the correction, did you put that right next to the change or in the margin? I have a small correction to make on my 1096 too and want to make sure I do it exactly right. Also, how long did the taxr.ai check take? Trying to get everything submitted before the deadline!
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