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I'm a tax preparer (not an accountant, just do this seasonally) and I see this ALL THE TIME with people who switch from self-prepared returns to professional preparation. The estimated tax penalty (Form 2210) is one of those things that many tax software packages don't handle well for average users. The way it works: if you owe more than $1,000 when you file AND didn't pay at least 90% of your tax during the year (or 100% of last year's tax if that's higher), you're supposed to pay a penalty. Most software will calculate this if the numbers are obvious, but many people don't enter their payment information correctly or the software doesn't prompt properly. If the IRS never caught it, you got lucky! But your accountant is correct to include it. They're not making you pay "more than you have to" - they're making you pay what the tax code actually requires.
Thanks for explaining this! Do you think I should go back and amend my previous returns to add this penalty, or just start including it going forward now that I know?
I generally wouldn't recommend amending prior returns just to add an estimated tax penalty if the IRS hasn't noticed it. The statute of limitations for most issues is 3 years from filing, so older returns are likely closed anyway. Going forward, your best approach would be working with your accountant to either increase your withholding at your job (if you have W-2 income) or make quarterly estimated payments if you have significant 1099 income. Proper planning eliminates the penalty entirely, which is better than calculating it correctly! The penalty is meant to incentivize paying throughout the year rather than all at filing time.
My experience is that different tax software handles Line 38 very differently. After using FreeTaxUSA for years, I switched to TaxAct and suddenly had an estimated tax penalty where FreeTaxUSA never showed one. Then switched to an accountant who calculated it yet another way. The trick is Form 2210 which calculates the penalty has different methods that can be used. Some software automatically uses the "short method" which might not apply the penalty in certain cases, while accountants often use the regular method which is more accurate but can result in higher penalties.
My in-laws INSISTED for years that getting a tax refund was "giving the government an interest-free loan" and I should adjust my withholding to get $0 refund. When I finally did that last year, I ended up owing $780 which triggered an underpayment penalty! Apparently you need to pay at least 90% of your tax liability during the year or 100% of last year's tax (whichever is smaller). Nobody ever talks about the safe harbor rules when giving that advice about refunds!!
This is a great point! I've always found the "don't give the government an interest-free loan" advice to be overblown. With today's savings account rates, the interest you'd earn on that money throughout the year is minimal compared to the stress of potentially owing at tax time. For most W-2 workers, a small refund is actually good peace of mind.
Exactly! I calculated it out and even with a $2,400 refund (which is what I typically get), at 4% interest I'm only "losing" about $50-60 over the course of a year. That's well worth the peace of mind of not having to worry about owing money. Plus, I've gotten much better at immediately putting my refund into my Roth IRA each year so it starts working for me right away rather than getting spent.
One huge misconception I see: people thinking getting married will automatically save them on taxes. The "marriage penalty" still exists for some high-income couples, especially if both earn similar amounts. I've seen colleagues rush to get married in December "for tax purposes" without understanding they might actually pay more! Your video should definitely cover marriage tax implications.
Have you considered filing under the IRS Voluntary Disclosure Practice? It's designed specifically for situations like yours where taxpayers with unreported income want to come clean. The benefit is that it can help you avoid criminal prosecution and potentially minimize penalties. The key is being proactive before the IRS discovers the issue themselves. Since the owner's daughter is already looking for a CPA, that's a good start. Make sure they're familiar with the voluntary disclosure process. Also, do you have any records at all of how much you were paid over the years? Bank deposits, notes, anything? Reconstructing 13 years of income will be challenging, but having some documentation will help tremendously.
I've never heard of the Voluntary Disclosure Practice before. Is that different from the regular process of just filing late returns? Would I need to do anything special to qualify for that? For records, I have some bank statements showing cash deposits, and I've kept rough notes about my hours and pay rates over the years in various notebooks. Nothing official from the employer though. Would bank statements be enough to show the IRS what I earned?
The Voluntary Disclosure Practice is more formal than just filing late returns. It involves coming forward to the IRS before they discover the non-compliance, providing complete and truthful disclosure, and cooperating with the IRS to determine the correct tax liability. While it doesn't guarantee immunity from prosecution, historically it has significantly reduced the likelihood of criminal charges in cases of willful non-compliance. Your bank statements showing cash deposits will be extremely helpful. Combined with your notes about hours and pay rates, you actually have more documentation than many people in similar situations. The IRS understands that reconstructing income from years ago is difficult, especially with cash payments. They generally accept reasonable reconstructions based on the best available information. Make sure to be consistent and realistic with your income estimates - sudden unexplained variations might raise questions.
One thing that nobody has mentioned yet - you might qualify for the Earned Income Tax Credit for some of those years. Depending on your income level and whether you had any qualifying children, this could potentially result in refunds for some years even after accounting for the taxes you should have paid. The EITC has a 3-year limitation for claiming refunds, but if you're filing all these past returns anyway, you might as well claim it for the most recent 3 years if you qualify. This could help offset some of what you'll owe for the older years.
This is actually a really good point. I worked as a volunteer tax preparer, and many people don't realize that the EITC can result in substantial refunds for lower-income workers. If your annual income was under about $60,000 (varies by year and filing status), it's definitely worth looking into.
For your original question, if price is your main concern, I've seen TurboTax Deluxe CD/download on sale at Costco for around $40-45 (vs. $60+ retail). Just be aware the CD/download versions are different from the online versions - they're a one-time purchase rather than the online subscription. Also, one trick I've learned: start with TurboTax Free Edition online first, enter all your basic info, then if you need to upgrade for investments, sometimes they'll offer you a discounted upgrade rather than paying full price right away.
Thanks! Is there any difference feature-wise between the download version and online version if I go with Deluxe? Also, do you know if the download version includes a state filing or is that extra?
The download version and online version have essentially the same features for each tier, but the pricing structure is different. The download is a one-time purchase that you install on your computer, while the online version is a subscription service. Most people find the online version more convenient, but the download can be cheaper. State filing is almost always an additional cost regardless of which version you choose. The download versions typically charge around $40 per state, which is separate from the federal filing cost. Some retailers occasionally offer bundle deals that include one state filing, but that's not common - always check the packaging details to confirm what's included.
Just a heads up - if your investments are at all complicated (crypto, multiple brokerages, etc), TurboTax Premier is probably worth the extra money over Deluxe. I tried to save money with Deluxe last year and ended up having to upgrade anyway and paid MORE than if I'd just bought Premier from the start.
I would second this. Premier is only about $20-30 more than Deluxe and well worth it if you have investments. I've used it for years and the investment import feature works much better with Premier than with Deluxe.
Mateo Rodriguez
From personal experience, here's a quick breakdown of costs to help your decision: - Bookkeepers: $30-75/hr or $200-500/mo for small biz - Tax preparers (not CPAs): $150-400 for business returns - Enrolled Agents: $200-700 for business returns depending on complexity - CPAs: $500-2,500+ for business returns, often $150-350/hr for consulting For your situation with multi-state issues and equipment purchases, an EA might be the sweet spot between expertise and cost unless you need financial advising beyond taxes.
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Omar Fawaz
ā¢Thanks for the cost breakdown! That's super helpful. Do most of these professionals offer free consultations? I'd like to chat with a few before deciding.
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Mateo Rodriguez
ā¢Most reputable tax professionals do offer free initial consultations, usually lasting 15-30 minutes. This gives you a chance to explain your situation and see if they're a good fit, while they can give you a more accurate price estimate based on your specific needs. When you schedule these consultations, come prepared with a list of questions about their experience with multi-state taxation and small business equipment deductions. Also ask about their communication style and availability throughout the year - you want someone who's accessible for questions, not just at tax time. The right professional should feel like a partner in your business, not just a once-a-year service.
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GalaxyGuardian
One thing nobody mentioned - if ur main issue is just organizing receipts and tracking expenses day to day, you might not need a professional yet! I use QuickBooks Self-Employed ($15/month) to track everything, categorize expenses, and log miles. Then I send the organized info to my tax guy once a year. Saved me a ton vs hiring a bookkeeper.
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Aisha Abdullah
ā¢I second this! I use FreshBooks for my small business and it makes everything so much cleaner. I upload receipts throughout the year and when tax time comes, I just export everything and send to my EA. She charges me less because the data is already organized.
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