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Ask the community...

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Ava Garcia

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21 One thing nobody has mentioned that tripped me up last year - if you have a mix of payment methods to the SAME contractor, you need to track them separately. I paid someone partly through PayPal and partly with checks, and ended up having to issue a 1099-NEC just for the check portion while PayPal handled their portion. Tax software doesn't always make this distinction clear.

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Ava Garcia

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16 That's a really good point! How did you handle the amounts on the 1099-NEC? Did you just report the check amounts or the total? I'm in this exact situation with a web designer I've been using.

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Ava Garcia

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21 I only reported the check amounts on the 1099-NEC I issued. The PayPal payments were handled by their 1099-K reporting. My accountant explained that if I included the PayPal amounts on my 1099-NEC, the contractor would have the same income reported twice to the IRS (once on my 1099-NEC and once on PayPal's 1099-K). It was a bit confusing because my tax software wanted me to enter the total paid to each contractor, and I had to manually adjust the reportable amounts. Definitely keep separate payment records by method for each contractor if you're using multiple payment types!

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Ava Garcia

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7 Has anyone actually gotten a solid answer from the IRS about the PayPal reporting threshold for 2024? Last I heard they delayed the $600 threshold for 2023, but I can't find clear info about what's happening for payments made in 2024 (for 2025 filing).

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Ava Garcia

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13 The $600 reporting threshold for third-party payment networks is supposed to be in effect for 2024 (filed in 2025). The IRS issued Notice 2023-10 for the delay that affected 2023 filings, but unless they issue a new notice, we should assume the $600 threshold applies for 2024 payments. It's always possible they'll announce another delay though.

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Luca Romano

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One thing I haven't seen mentioned yet - you'll need to file a Schedule SE form along with your Schedule C for self-employment tax. That's the Social Security and Medicare taxes that would normally be withheld by an employer. When I started my photography business, I was shocked at how much I owed in self-employment tax! It's about 15.3% on top of regular income tax. Definitely set aside more than you think you'll need for taxes.

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GalacticGuru

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Wait seriously?? I have to pay EXTRA tax on top of regular income tax? I thought the whole point of writing off the equipment was to pay less taxes. Does this mean I'll end up owing more than if I just didn't report the photography income at all?

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Luca Romano

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You do need to pay self-employment tax, but don't panic! You'll still benefit from deducting your equipment expenses. Here's how it works: your business profit (income minus expenses) is what gets taxed. By deducting legitimate expenses like your camera equipment, you're reducing your taxable profit. Not reporting income isn't a good strategy. It's legally considered tax evasion, and the penalties can be severe if you're caught. Plus, reporting your business properly builds tax history that helps with things like qualifying for loans, retirement accounts, and health insurance. The short-term tax hit is worth the long-term benefits of having everything properly documented.

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Nia Jackson

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Don't forget about depreciation! Depending on the cost of your equipment, you might need to depreciate larger purchases over several years instead of deducting the full amount in one year.

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There's also Section 179 deduction that lets you deduct the full cost of equipment in one year up to a certain amount. I think it's like $1,080,000 for 2023 so way more than most photographers would spend!

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To answer the original question from a different angle - while getting close to zero is mathematically optimal, there are actually some psychological benefits to getting a refund that shouldn't be dismissed. For many people, that annual "windfall" becomes their only meaningful savings all year. Yes, it's technically an interest-free loan to the government, but the "forced savings" aspect can be valuable for people who struggle to save otherwise. The key is making an intentional choice rather than just letting your withholding happen by default. If you decide you want a refund as a forced savings mechanism, that's valid! Just recognize that you're prioritizing the psychological benefit over the small amount of interest you might earn.

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Carmen Ruiz

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How much interest are we really talking about though? Like if someone gets a $3000 refund, how much are they actually losing by letting the government hold it?

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The interest amount depends on what you would have done with the money instead. Using your $3000 example, if that refund built up gradually over the year (about $250/month): If you'd put it in a high-yield savings account at 3.5%, you'd have earned roughly $60 in interest over the year. Not life-changing, but it's something. If you used that monthly amount to pay down credit card debt at 18% interest, the impact would be much more significant - potentially saving around $300 in interest charges over the year. And if you invested it in the market with an average 7% return (obviously with more risk), that theoretical long-term value would be about $110 in potential growth. So it really depends on your personal financial situation. If you have high-interest debt, the cost of overwithholding is much higher than if you'd just park it in a savings account.

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Fun fact: the average tax refund is around $3,200, which means the average taxpayer is letting the government hold about $266 of their money each month. Anyone else find it weird that we've normalized giving interest-free loans to the government?

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Isn't that just a result of how the withholding tables are designed though? Like they're intentionally set up to withhold a little extra so people don't end up with surprise tax bills? I don't think most people are consciously choosing to overpay.

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Just to add some clarity to the original question - the Mortgage Interest Credit (Form 8396) is completely different from the regular mortgage interest DEDUCTION most homeowners claim. The deduction is available to pretty much anyone with a mortgage who itemizes. The credit is a special program you would've specifically applied for when buying your home. When you refinanced, the software probably just wanted to check if you had an MCC that needed to be reissued. If you never had one to begin with, it doesn't apply to you at all.

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That's a huge help! So this is entirely separate from my regular mortgage interest deduction that I claim every year? I definitely itemize and take that deduction.

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Yes, completely separate things! The mortgage interest deduction is taken on Schedule A when you itemize, and that's what most homeowners use. You'll still get that. The Form 8396 credit is an entirely different benefit that only applies to people who received a special certificate through a first-time homebuyer program. If you never received a Mortgage Credit Certificate when you first bought your home, then Form 8396 simply doesn't apply to you. Just answer "no" to that question in H&R Block and continue claiming your regular mortgage interest deduction as you've been doing.

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PSA for anyone who refinanced recently: Even though you probably don't have Form 8396, make sure you're correctly reporting points paid on your refinance! Points for a refinance have to be amortized over the life of the loan, not deducted all at once like with an initial purchase.

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Ravi Sharma

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Good point! I completely forgot about this when I refinanced and ended up having to amend my return last year. Cost me an extra $120 for the amendment filing fee 😫

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That's a bummer about the amendment fee! Yeah, it's one of those details that's easy to miss. Most tax software should handle it automatically if you enter everything correctly, but it definitely requires entering all your refinance details properly.

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Edwards Hugo

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A couple other things to know about UCO specifically, since I hold it too: 1. It's a 2x leveraged ETF tracking oil futures 2. Because of its structure, it often has significant year-end distributions 3. These distributions can be classified as ordinary dividends, qualified dividends, short-term capital gains, long-term capital gains, or return of capital 4. Each has different tax implications Worth getting the 1099-DIV from your broker and looking at box 2a (capital gain distributions) vs box 1a (ordinary dividends) vs box 3 (return of capital). The difference matters a lot tax-wise!

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Emma Morales

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Thanks, that's super helpful! I just checked my 1099-DIV and you're right - box 3 (return of capital) has a pretty significant number. Does this mean I've been potentially paying taxes on money I didn't need to?

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Edwards Hugo

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Return of capital distributions (box 3) are not immediately taxable - they reduce your cost basis in the ETF instead. So if you bought UCO at $10 per share and received $1 per share as return of capital, your new cost basis would be $9 per share. You only pay taxes on return of capital if it reduces your basis below zero (which is rare), or when you eventually sell the shares. If you've been treating these distributions as taxable income, then yes, you've been overpaying your taxes. You might want to consult with a tax professional about filing amended returns for previous years.

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Gianna Scott

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Have you considered tax-loss harvesting? Even with unrealized gains in UCO, you could sell other investments at a loss to offset any realized gains when you do decide to sell some UCO shares. Not applicable right now if you haven't sold anything, but good to keep in mind. Also, holding these assets in a tax-advantaged account like a Roth IRA might be worth considering for future purchases, though leveraged ETFs can be risky for retirement accounts.

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Alfredo Lugo

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Be careful with tax-loss harvesting and wash sale rules though! If you sell something at a loss and buy a "substantially identical" security within 30 days before or after, you can't claim the loss. The IRS definition of "substantially identical" can be murky with ETFs.

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