


Ask the community...
Your second guess is spot on. When you start a job mid-year, payroll systems calculate withholding as if you're making that same amount for the full year. So your actual annual projected income is lower, hence lower withholding. Easiest fix? Use the IRS Withholding Calculator online to check if you're on track. If needed, you can submit a new W-4 to your employer requesting additional withholding. Just put the extra amount you want withheld per paycheck in Box 4(c). For next year, once you've both worked at your jobs for the full year, your withholdings should naturally align better. But I always recommend doing a mid-year withholding checkup anyway.
Thanks for confirming my suspicion! I used the calculator and it's showing we might be slightly underwithholding overall. Is it better to adjust both our W-4s slightly or just have one of us make a bigger adjustment? Does it matter which approach we take?
Either approach works from a tax perspective - the IRS doesn't care which spouse has the withholding as long as your household total is correct. For simplicity, I'd recommend just having one person make the adjustment - usually the higher earner or whoever has the more stable income. Remember that if your incomes are fairly high, the "married" withholding tables assume that one spouse might not work, so with two similar high incomes, you might need more withholding than the standard tables suggest. The calculator should account for this, but it's always good to recheck your withholdings around June each year to make sure you're on track.
Random tip that helped my wife and me - we both selected "Married but withhold at higher Single rate" on our W-4s since we make similar salaries. This automatically adjusts for the fact that both of us work. Then at the end of each quarter, we do a quick check using an online calculator to see if we're on track. The old W-4 used to have allowances which was confusing af. The new one is better but still not perfect. Married couples with similar incomes often need to withhold extra to avoid an unpleasant surprise at tax time.
Is this still the best approach with the redesigned W-4? I thought the new form was supposed to fix these issues with the two-earner worksheet?
I used to work for a state benefits agency (not federal, but similar systems). Just want to clarify something - these cross-checks have actually been happening for years, just not systematically or efficiently. The DOGE initiative is mainly about automating and improving what was already supposed to be happening. The biggest issue we saw wasn't people deliberately committing fraud, but honest mistakes in how income was reported or categorized. Like someone would forget to include certain types of income on their benefits application but would report it correctly on taxes, or vice versa. My advice: keep good records of EVERYTHING. If you get flagged for review, don't panic - just be ready to explain any discrepancies with documentation.
Should people proactively contact their benefits offices about potential discrepancies, or just wait to see if they get flagged?
Generally, it's better to wait until you're contacted unless you realize you've made a significant error that would affect your eligibility. The verification systems are designed to filter out minor discrepancies, and proactively contacting benefits offices often just creates confusion when there might not be an issue. If you do discover you've made a major reporting error that would affect your eligibility, then yes, you should contact the appropriate office to correct it. But for small differences in how income is categorized or reported, the cross-referencing systems typically have thresholds for what triggers a review.
Does anyone know which federal benefits are being included in this DOGE initiative? Is it just income-based programs like SNAP and TANF, or does it include Social Security retirement and disability too?
Something important that hasn't been mentioned yet - the IRS actually has a specific "9 factors test" they use to determine if an activity is a hobby or business: 1. Whether you carry on the activity in a businesslike manner 2. Your expertise (or your advisors') 3. The time and effort you spend on it 4. Whether assets used may appreciate in value 5. Your success in similar activities 6. Your history of income or losses 7. The amount of occasional profits earned 8. Your financial status (if you have other income sources) 9. Elements of personal pleasure/recreation From what you described, you have more hobby factors (personal pleasure, not your main income, not conducted in a super businesslike way), but documenting expenses and showing intent to make profit over time might push you toward business territory if you want that classification.
This is super helpful, thank you! Looking at these factors, I'm definitely more on the hobby side. My financial records are pretty basic, I primarily do it for enjoyment, and the income is small compared to my day job. One more question - if I do decide to formally track this as a hobby on my taxes, should I be keeping receipts for all my bonsai-related purchases even though I can't deduct them? Just in case the IRS ever has questions?
Good question! Yes, I would recommend keeping basic records of both your sales and expenses, even though you can't deduct the expenses for a hobby. This serves two important purposes: First, if the IRS ever questions whether this is truly a hobby, your records can help demonstrate the financial reality of your activity. Second, if you eventually transition to business status, having historical records will be valuable. Also, while you can't deduct hobby expenses against hobby income anymore (thanks to the Tax Cuts and Jobs Act), keeping track of expenses helps you understand the true economics of your activity. Just keep it simple - a basic spreadsheet and a folder for receipts should be sufficient. No need for elaborate bookkeeping if it's truly just a hobby.
Anyone know if selling plants online through Etsy changes the hobby/business determination? I've been propagating houseplants (not bonsai but similar concept) and selling about $1500/year through Etsy. They sent me a 1099-K last year and I didn't know what to do with it.
Getting a 1099-K means Etsy is reporting that income to the IRS, so you definitely need to report it on your tax return. Starting in 2022, platforms like Etsy are required to issue 1099-Ks for $600+ in sales (used to be $20k). This doesn't automatically make your activity a business, but it does mean the IRS knows about the income. You'd still apply the same hobby vs business tests others mentioned. If it's a hobby, report on Schedule 1 (Other Income). If business, Schedule C.
Have you checked if there's a difference between your actual Schedule D and what the software summary is showing? Sometimes the software interface displays simplifications but the actual Schedule D will show the correct carryover amount. Look at the Schedule D and the "Capital Loss Carryover Worksheet" in the actual forms. Also, some tax software require you to manually enter previous year carryovers rather than importing them correctly. Double check if that might be the issue.
Thanks for the tip! I just looked at the actual Schedule D form in the PDF and you're right - there's a discrepancy. The main software screen shows $0 carryover, but Schedule D Line 16 is showing the $4,000 remaining loss amount. So it looks like the calculation is correct in the actual forms but just displaying wrong in the summary screen? Do you think I should contact the software company about this display issue or just ignore it since the actual form seems correct?
If the actual Schedule D shows the correct $4,000 carryover amount, then your tax return is being filed correctly and you should be fine. This is definitely just a display issue in the software interface. It's still worth reporting to the software company since others might be confused by the same issue. Take screenshots of both the incorrect summary page and the correct Schedule D to include with your report. But as far as your taxes are concerned, you're good to go - the IRS receives the actual forms, not the software's summary screens.
Double check your amounts across tax years. I went through smth similar and realized I misremembered my 2022 loss. Ended up being $21k not $24k like I thought. Check all the actual Schedule D forms across years. The math should always balance out if your going from 1 yr to next!
This is good advice. Numbers get fuzzy when we rely on memory. I've messed up carryovers before because I was working from memory instead of having my previous return open while doing my current taxes.
Dallas Villalobos
Did you track your mileage while driving for Lyft? That's usually the biggest deduction for rideshare drivers. If you didn't claim your mileage (at 56 cents per mile in 2021), the IRS would calculate taxes on your full earnings without expenses. That alone could explain a huge tax difference.
0 coins
Kara Yoshida
ā¢I did track some miles but honestly not consistently. I remember putting in something like 4,000 miles but I was driving a lot more than that. Probably closer to 18,000 miles for Lyft that year. I think you're right that this might be a big part of the problem.
0 coins
Dallas Villalobos
ā¢That would definitely explain a large portion of the deficiency! At 56 cents per mile in 2021, the difference between claiming 4,000 miles versus 18,000 miles is about $7,840 in additional deductions. Depending on your tax bracket, that alone could account for $1,700-$2,700 in tax differences.
0 coins
Reina Salazar
Make sure you're also checking if you filed Schedule SE for self-employment tax. Many tax software users miss this completely. The SE tax is 15.3% ON TOP OF regular income tax. So even if you correctly reported the Lyft income on Schedule C, if you didn't complete Schedule SE, the IRS would come after you for the missing SE tax plus penalties and interest.
0 coins
Saanvi Krishnaswami
ā¢This happened to me! I reported all my Uber income but completely missed the Schedule SE part. Ended up with a $7k notice a year later. I recommend getting a tax transcript from the IRS website to see exactly what they have on file versus what you submitted.
0 coins