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Has anyone tried just ignoring a small W-2 like this? I got one for $36 two years ago and just left it off my return. Nothing ever came of it. IRS probably has bigger fish to fry than chasing down tiny amounts.
Terrible advice. The IRS computers automatically match ALL W-2s against your filed return regardless of amount. Skip it and you're pretty much guaranteed to get a letter demanding the additional tax plus interest and penalties. The system is fully automated for this kind of matching, it's not about them "choosing" to come after you.
You're probably right, and I wouldn't recommend anyone else do what I did. I got lucky that year, but it's not worth the risk. The IRS matching system doesn't catch everything immediately, so sometimes issues like this can surface years later with added penalties. Better to deal with it properly upfront rather than potentially having a bigger headache down the road.
I'm confused by some of these comments. If you know for sure you didn't earn the money, why would you report it and pay taxes on it? Shouldn't the company issue a corrected W-2 instead?
Great question! The reason tax professionals generally advise reporting it is because the IRS has already received a copy of that W-2. If you don't report it, their automated systems will flag the mismatch. The ideal solution is absolutely to get the company to issue a corrected W-2, but that can take time and companies aren't always responsive. If you can't get it corrected before the filing deadline, you have two options: 1) File Form 4852 (Substitute for W-2) explaining the discrepancy, or 2) Report the income and then file an amended return later if the company issues a correction. Either way, it's important to document your attempts to resolve the issue with the employer. Keep copies of emails, names of people you spoke with, and dates of your communications. This documentation is valuable if the IRS questions the situation later.
That makes sense! So it's more about avoiding the automated flag than actually paying tax on money you never received. I guess $63 wouldn't be much tax anyway, but it's the principle of the thing. Thanks for explaining!
One thing nobody mentioned yet about LLCs - make sure you keep your business and personal finances completely separate! Get a business checking account using your LLC name and EIN. Put ALL business income into that account and pay business expenses from there. If you mix personal and business funds, you risk "piercing the corporate veil" which means you could lose your liability protection. I made this mistake when I first formed my LLC and my accountant read me the riot act. Had to go back and document everything. Also, keep good records of all business meetings and decisions (even if it's just you). This helps establish that your LLC is a legitimate business entity.
I'm definitely guilty of using my personal Amazon account to buy supplies for my business. Is that a big no-no? Should I be setting up separate accounts for everything?
Using a personal Amazon account isn't ideal, but it's not a disaster if you keep meticulous records. The best practice is to use your business card/account for all business purchases to maintain clear separation. What's more important is having a dedicated business checking account and never commingling funds. Don't deposit business income into your personal account, and don't pay personal expenses directly from your business account. If you use a personal account for a business purchase, reimburse yourself properly with documentation. The goal is maintaining a clear paper trail showing your business operates as a separate entity. Small occasional crossovers with proper documentation won't necessarily void your liability protection, but consistent mixing of finances definitely could.
Don't forget about local requirements too! My city requires a separate business license for LLCs even though I already had one as a sole proprietor. Had to pay an extra $175 annually that I wasn't expecting. Also check if your county has any special requirements. The state filing is just one piece.
I think your tax pro might be confusing the rules for SIMPLE IRAs with Roth IRAs. With SIMPLE IRAs, there actually are some limitations when you have multiple retirement plans. But for your specific situation with a Solo 401k and Roth IRA, they're completely separate contribution limits as others have said. The Solo 401k falls under the 401k annual limits ($23,000 for 2025) and the Roth IRA has its own limit ($7,000 for 2025 if under 50). The only things that would prevent you from contributing to a Roth IRA would be: 1. Having income above the eligibility threshold (which you're nowhere near) 2. Not having enough earned income to cover your contributions 3. Being over 73 with no earned income (new RMD age
Isn't there also some rule about the total percentage of your income you can contribute across all retirement accounts? I thought I read somewhere that you can't put more than 25% of your income into retirement accounts total?
There is a percentage limit, but it only applies to the employer contribution portion of retirement plans. For a Solo 401k, you can contribute up to 25% of your net self-employment income as the "employer" contribution, on top of your "employee" contribution (the $23,000 limit). This doesn't affect Roth IRA eligibility or contribution limits at all. Your Roth IRA contribution is completely separate and only limited by the annual maximum ($7,000 for 2025 if under 50) and having enough earned income to cover it. Since your income is around $31,500, you're well within these limits and should be able to contribute to both accounts without any problem.
I wonder if your tax professional is thinking about the "overall contribution limit" which is $69,000 for 2025 across qualified plans. But that's mostly relevant for people with very high incomes who max out both employee and employer contributions. With your income level, there's no way you'd hit that limit. You should definitely be able to contribute to both your Roth Solo 401k and your Roth IRA as long as you have sufficient earned income to cover both. Just make sure you're tracking your business profit carefully, since your Solo 401k contributions can't exceed your actual business profit (after deducting the employer portion of self-employment tax).
I've been doing my taxes wrong then! I thought the 401k limits were completely separate from IRA limits (which they are), but I didn't realize that the total contribution still had to be less than my business profit. My side hustle only makes about $15k but I've been maxing my solo 401k from it thinking I could use my W2 income to "cover" the rest of the contribution. Is that not allowed??
One thing nobody's mentioned yet - you should look into establishing a separate entity specifically for your real estate development activities. I have a plumbing business and rental properties, and my CPA recommended setting up: 1. My original S-Corp for the plumbing business 2. An LLC taxed as a partnership for the rental properties 3. A separate LLC for property development/flips This way, there's no confusion about which expenses belong where. My plumbing business can legitimately bill my development projects at market rates for any plumbing work. For materials, I keep separate accounts and credit cards for each business to avoid commingling funds. For your specific situation, materials for your rentals will still need to be depreciated over time, but with the right entity structure and cost segregation, you can optimize your tax situation significantly. Just don't make the mistake of running everything through your landscaping business like I initially did with my plumbing company.
Does having multiple entities create more paperwork and higher accounting costs? I'm in a similar situation with my flooring business and some rental properties, but my accountant charges me per entity for tax filings.
Yes, having multiple entities does increase paperwork and accounting costs. I pay about $800 more annually in accounting fees and have additional state filing fees. However, the tax benefits and liability protection far outweigh these costs in my situation. The biggest advantage is clarity - there's no question about which expenses belong to which business. This makes documentation much cleaner if you ever face an audit. It also helps with planning because you can see the true profitability of each venture. My landscaping business seemed less profitable than it actually was when I was running some development costs through it incorrectly.
I've been doing exactly what you're trying to do for about 7 years now. Started with a painting company, moved into flips, and now have 11 rental units. Here's what I've learned: 1. For flips: You CANNOT deduct materials as expenses through your landscaping business. These costs are part of your "basis" in the property and offset your profit when you sell. You might need to amend previous returns if you've been doing this wrong. 2. For rentals: New construction costs are capitalized and depreciated over 27.5 years (residential). BUT - you can do a cost segregation study that lets you depreciate many components much faster (5-15 years). This can front-load deductions in the early years. 3. Entity structure: Consider having your landscaping business be a legitimate contractor for your real estate projects. Charge fair market rates, keep proper documentation, and you can move some profit that way. 4. 1031 exchanges: Look into these for your flips if you want to defer taxes and build your rental portfolio faster. Don't get discouraged! The tax rules for real estate actually favor investors once you understand them properly. My tax bill is way lower now than when I was just running my painting business.
Connor Byrne
Something nobody mentioned yet - check if your mom qualifies for a Medicare Savings Program through your state Medicaid office. My mother has limited income, and the QMB program pays her Medicare premiums, deductibles AND co-insurance. There are different levels depending on income and resources, but it's worth checking. Saved my mom over $2,500 a year.
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Fatima Al-Maktoum
β’Thanks for mentioning this! Do you know what the income limits are to qualify? My mom's on a tight budget but not sure if she'd be considered low-income enough for assistance.
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Connor Byrne
β’The income limits vary by state since these are state-administered programs, but generally for the QMB program (most comprehensive one), income needs to be at or below 100% of the Federal Poverty Level, which is about $1,215/month for an individual in 2025. Assets typically need to be under $9,900 for an individual (excluding your primary home and car). There are other programs with higher income limits though. The SLMB program (which pays just the Part B premium) allows income up to 120% FPL, and the QI program allows up to 135% FPL. Definitely contact your state's Medicaid office or local SHIP (State Health Insurance Assistance Program) counselor - they provide free assistance with these applications.
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Yara Elias
My mom got so confused by all this that we ended up switching her to a Medicare Advantage plan with a $0 premium and $0 deductible. It's just simpler than trying to figure out all the separate parts of Original Medicare + supplements. Now she just pays her regular Part B premium and small copays when she sees doctors. Might be worth considering if all these different deductibles and premiums are too confusing.
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QuantumQuasar
β’Be careful with those Medicare Advantage plans though. They look great with the $0 premiums but then restrict which doctors you can see. My dad switched to one and then couldn't see his cardiologist anymore because they weren't in network. And the out-of-network costs were insane!
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