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9 Don't forget you can probably deduct business expenses! I'm a referee on weekends and I deduct: - Mileage driving to games - Whistle/uniform/equipment - Part of my cell phone bill (I use it to coordinate with leagues) - Training/certification costs These deductions brought my taxable income down significantly. Just make sure you keep good records of everything in case of audit.
4 Do you think coaching books or online courses would count as deductions? I've spent around $200 on coaching materials this year that help me plan practices.
9 Absolutely! Coaching books, online courses, and training materials that help you in your coaching role are typically deductible as ordinary and necessary business expenses. They're considered professional development expenses that directly relate to your work. Just keep receipts and documentation that shows what the materials were and how they relate to your coaching business. Digital receipts work fine too, just make sure you have a system to keep track of them.
5 The 30% actually makes perfect sense if you break it down: - 15.3% for self-employment tax (Social Security + Medicare) - ~15% for your regular income tax bracket Don't forget you can deduct 50% of your self-employment tax on your return! That helps a bit. And seriously, track EVERY business expense - even small things add up and reduce that taxable income.
12 Where on the forms do you deduct the 50% of self-employment tax? I've been filing 1099 income for 3 years and never knew about this!
If you know roughly what you owe, just pay it now!! I made the mistake of waiting for the IRS to "process" my return last year and ended up with almost $300 in interest and penalties because it took them 3 months to process everything. The interest clock starts ticking from the original filing deadline, not from when they process your return or send you a bill. I know it feels weird to pay when they haven't asked for the money yet, but trust me, paying sooner rather than later is the way to go.
This is what worries me! Did you have any issues with them properly applying your payment when you made it before they processed your return? And how did you figure out the exact amount with penalties?
No issues with them applying the payment - I paid through the IRS Direct Pay system and selected the correct tax year and form type. The payment posted correctly once they processed my return. As for calculating the exact amount with penalties, that was the tricky part. I didn't know how to do that accurately, which is why I ended up with a small balance due notice later. If I could do it again, I would either pay a bit more than I thought I owed to be safe or use one of the services others have mentioned to get a more precise calculation.
Anyone else having trouble even logging into the IRS website lately? I keep getting timeout errors.
Try early morning (like 6-7am) or late evening. Their site gets overloaded during peak hours. Also clear your cookies or try a different browser. Their site is notoriously bad with certain browser versions.
Thanks for the tip! I'll try early tomorrow morning. Been trying in the afternoon and it's been completely useless. Their tech is so outdated it's ridiculous.
I've been using payusatax for years and they consistently don't update their forms until about a week AFTER the official release date. So even if the IRS releases the 2021 stuff on January 15th, don't be surprised if payusatax doesn't have it until the 20th or so. If you're in a rush, you might want to use IRS Direct Pay instead since it updates faster. Just make absolutely sure you select "2021" as the tax year and "1040-ES" as the payment type or it'll get applied to the wrong account.
Do you know if there's any disadvantage to using Direct Pay instead of payusatax? Is one better for record-keeping or anything?
Direct Pay gives you a confirmation number and email receipt just like payusatax does, so the record-keeping is pretty much the same. The main difference is that Direct Pay is completely free while payusatax charges a processing fee. The one downside to Direct Pay is that you can't use a credit card - it has to come directly from your bank account. So if you're trying to get credit card points, you'd need to use payusatax or one of the other third-party processors that accept cards (though they charge an even higher fee for credit card transactions).
Does anybody know if the payment date is considered the date you submit the payment or the date it's processed? I need this payment to count for 2021 Q1 but don't want it accidentally applied to 2020.
The IRS counts the payment date as the day you submit it, not when they process it. So as long as you select "2021" and "1040-ES" when making the payment, you'll be fine. I made this mistake last year - selected the wrong tax year and had to spend hours sorting it out. Double check the tax year selection before submitting!
Thanks for clarifying! That's a relief to know it's based on submission date. I'll definitely double-check the year selection when I submit.
If you want a free alternative, try calling the IRS exactly at 7:00 AM Eastern when they open. That's what worked for me after weeks of failed attempts. Also, the Taxpayer Advocate Service can sometimes help with identity theft cases if you're experiencing financial hardship because of the delayed refund. And definitely check your credit reports at annualcreditreport.com to see if there are other accounts opened in your name. If someone's using your SSN for employment, they might be using it for other things too.
I've actually tried calling right when they open multiple times with no luck! Do you know if the Taxpayer Advocate requires proof of hardship? This refund delay is definitely causing me financial problems since I was counting on that money.
Yes, the Taxpayer Advocate Service typically requires some documentation of hardship - things like utility disconnection notices, eviction threats, or proof that you can't meet basic living expenses without the refund. If you have any documentation showing financial strain, gather that before contacting them. They've been overwhelmed lately too, but they're often more accessible than the main IRS lines. Their criteria for accepting cases have gotten stricter because of their high case volume, but identity theft cases with hardship are generally prioritized.
Has anyone tried going to their local IRS office in person instead of calling? I had a similar situation last year and was able to get an in-person appointment through the IRS website. Took about 3 weeks to get the appointment but they resolved everything in one visit.
I second this! In-person appointments are WAY more effective. I had my identity theft issue resolved in about half the time after visiting my local office. They can verify your identity on the spot and put notes directly in the system. Just make sure to bring multiple forms of ID and copies of all your documentation.
That's a great suggestion! I didn't even think about going in person. How did you schedule the appointment? Is there a specific section on the IRS website for that?
Chloe Boulanger
Everyone's focusing on the tax deduction part but let me just say - if you're paying $2,800 in credit card interest annually, that's the real problem! That's money down the drain. You should really consider consolidating that debt with a personal loan at a lower interest rate, or look into 0% balance transfer offers. Even without tax benefits, reducing your interest payments is basically giving yourself a guaranteed return on investment. No tax deduction is going to make up for the money you're losing to high interest rates.
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Maya Patel
ā¢I know credit card debt isn't ideal, but it happened after some medical expenses that weren't fully covered by insurance. I've actually been looking into balance transfer offers like you suggested. Do you have any recommendations for specific cards that have good 0% offers right now?
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Chloe Boulanger
ā¢I don't want to recommend specific cards since offers change frequently, but look for cards offering at least 15 months at 0% APR on balance transfers. Pay attention to the balance transfer fee (usually 3-5% of the transferred amount) and factor that into your calculations. Credit unions often have personal loan rates significantly lower than credit card interest rates if the balance transfer doesn't cover everything. The key is to make a plan to pay off the debt during the 0% period, or you'll just end up back in the same situation when the promotional rate expires.
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James Martinez
Just to add another perspective - the tax code is designed to incentivize certain behaviors. Homeownership? Tax break. Education? Tax break. Starting a business? Tax breaks everywhere. But buying consumer goods on credit? No tax breaks. The government doesn't want to encourage consumer debt. The system is actually working as designed, even if it feels unfair. My advice? Structure your finances to align with the incentives in the tax code. If you're going to take on debt, try to make it the kind that comes with tax advantages when possible.
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Olivia Harris
ā¢This is actually a really good point that I never thought about. The tax code is basically a list of things the government wants to encourage.
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James Martinez
ā¢Exactly. Once you understand that the tax code is more about shaping behavior than being "fair," you can make more strategic financial decisions. If you're going to borrow money anyway, might as well do it in ways that come with tax advantages when possible.
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