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You might want to consider De Minimis Safe Harbor election instead of depreciation. If your laptop's value at conversion was under $2,500, you could potentially deduct the business portion immediately rather than depreciating it over several years. You'd still multiply by your business use percentage, but you get the full deduction in year one.
Can you really use de minimis for a converted personal asset though? I thought that only applied to new purchases specifically for the business.
You're right to question this - there's some nuance here. The de minimis safe harbor typically works best for new business purchases. For converted personal assets, the IRS generally wants you to use depreciation based on the fair market value at the time of conversion. That said, there are some tax professionals who believe you could potentially apply de minimis in the year of conversion if you properly document the fair market value and business use percentage. It's definitely a gray area though, and depreciation is the more conservative and clearly acceptable approach.
This whole situation is why I just buy separate devices for business and personal use. Trying to calculate percentages and conversion values is way too complicated and can raise red flags with the IRS. Just spend the money on a dedicated business computer and save yourself the headache come tax time.
For what it's worth, I've been using FreeTaxUSA for the past 3 years after getting fed up with TurboTax's rising prices and constant upselling. The federal filing is free regardless of complexity, and state returns are like $15. The interface isn't as polished as TurboTax, but it asks all the same questions and finds the same deductions in my experience. I'd recommend filling out your return there too as a comparison - it won't cost anything to prepare the federal return, only to file. But like others said, the software isn't usually the issue - it's likely something with your withholding or a missed deduction. Different software won't magically make you owe less unless there's a specific deduction or credit that TurboTax is missing (which is rare).
Thank you for this suggestion! We'll definitely try FreeTaxUSA as a comparison. When we put our info into TurboTax, we only got to the W-2 part before seeing the amount we owe. We haven't added any deductions yet, but I'm worried TurboTax will make us pay for upgrades to add things like student loan interest. Do you know if FreeTaxUSA lets you enter student loan interest and charitable donations without upgrading to a paid version?
FreeTaxUSA includes ALL federal tax forms and deductions in their free version, including student loan interest, charitable donations, investment income, self-employment, etc. The only thing you pay for is state filing ($15) or audit assistance if you want it. That's actually one of the biggest differences - TurboTax's "free" version is only free for very simple returns, then they charge for adding forms like student loan interest deductions. FreeTaxUSA doesn't do that bait-and-switch thing. I usually run my taxes through both just to double-check my results, and they've always matched within a few dollars.
Something to consider - did you receive any unemployment benefits? Those are taxable and if you didn't elect to have taxes withheld, that could explain the surprise bill. Also, check if you got any advanced Child Tax Credit payments if you have kids. That can make a big difference in what you owe vs. what you expected.
Something nobody's mentioned yet - if you're going to allocate profits differently than ownership percentages, make sure ALL partners agree to this in writing. I made the mistake of verbally agreeing to a different split with my partners, but when tax time came, one partner changed their mind and insisted on the original percentage. Caused a huge fight and nearly broke up the business. Make sure your operating agreement specifically addresses profit allocations and have it reviewed by an attorney. Also consider including language about how and when allocations can be changed in the future.
Did you have to completely redo your operating agreement or was there some kind of amendment you could add? We're already 2 years into our business and wondering if we need to start from scratch with a new agreement.
We didn't have to completely redo the operating agreement. Our attorney drafted an amendment specifically addressing profit allocations that referenced the original agreement. All partners had to sign it, and we made sure to include clear language about the business purpose for the special allocation. We also addressed your exact situation by including provisions for how to handle changes in future years, requiring unanimous consent for any allocation changes and setting deadlines before year-end for making such decisions. This prevented last-minute surprises at tax time when someone might change their mind.
One practical consideration: if your LLC is taxed as a partnership, remember that partners pay taxes on their allocated profits whether or not those profits are distributed. So if you allocate more profit to the two working partners but everyone takes equal draws, make sure those partners can cover their higher tax bills from other sources. I've seen this cause major cash flow problems for partners who didn't realize they'd be taxed on profits they didn't actually receive in cash. The partner getting a smaller allocation might be happy with the tax savings, but the partners with larger allocations need to be prepared for the higher tax burden.
Everyone's talking about refunds like they're free money from the government. A $21 refund is PERFECT - it means you loaned the government almost nothing during the year. If you're getting a $3000 refund, that means you gave the government an interest-free loan of your own money!! I always aim for owing a small amount (but not enough to trigger penalties). That way I keep my money throughout the year and can invest it or use it how I want.
I understand your point theoretically, but most regular people aren't investing that extra $50-100 per paycheck. It's just getting spent. For many people, tax refunds function as a forced savings plan. I personally prefer getting a chunk back because otherwise that money would just disappear into my daily spending.
You're making a fair point about the psychological benefit. The math doesn't lie though - if you're getting $3000 back, that's $250 per month you could have had in your pocket. Even if you just put that in a high-yield savings account at 4%, you'd earn an extra $70+ over the year. Not life-changing but still better than giving it to the government for free. The real solution is to improve financial discipline rather than using the tax system as a savings account.
Has anyone else noticed TurboTax is pushing their paid audit defense add-on really hard this year? I wonder if they're showing artificially low refunds to scare people into thinking they're at higher audit risk so they'll upgrade.
I noticed this too! I was getting a really low refund and right after showing me that number, they immediately tried to sell me audit defense for an extra $49.99. Seems predatory to me.
That's exactly what happened to me! It honestly feels like they're using scare tactics. When I went through the same info with FreeTaxUSA instead, I got a much higher refund estimate without all the upsell attempts. I'm never using TurboTax again.
Zoe Papadopoulos
Another option to consider - if you consistently owe because of income that doesn't have taxes withheld (like 1099 work, investments, etc.), you should be making quarterly estimated tax payments. The due dates are April 15, June 15, September 15, and January 15 of the following year. This spreads out your tax burden throughout the year instead of getting hit with one big bill. You can use Form 1040-ES to calculate and submit these payments. Bonus: doing this helps avoid underpayment penalties that the IRS charges when you owe too much at filing time.
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CyberNinja
ā¢Is there an easy way to figure out how much to pay for those quarterly payments? Our situation involves some rental income on top of our regular jobs, and I think that might be why we keep owing so much.
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Zoe Papadopoulos
ā¢For rental income, you'll want to estimate your annual rental profit (income minus expenses) and multiply by your tax bracket percentage. Then divide that amount into four equal payments. A simple approach is to take whatever you owed last year and divide by 4 - that's usually enough to avoid underpayment penalties under the "safe harbor" rule. The IRS only requires you to pay 90% of this year's taxes or 100% of last year's tax amount (110% if your income is over $150,000), whichever is smaller. If your rental situation is complex, you might want to consult with a tax professional for the first calculation, then you can handle the quarterly payments yourself going forward.
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Jamal Washington
Owing vs. getting a refund is really just personal preference. I intentionally have extra withheld because I'm terrible at saving. My tax refund is my forced savings account that funds my vacation every year. Mathematically, yes, I could invest that money throughout the year instead. But realistically, I wouldn't. I'd spend it. So for me, getting a refund IS actually the better financial choice despite what the optimization folks say. Do what works for YOUR financial personality and situation!
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Mei Wong
ā¢This is exactly right! The "don't give the government an interest-free loan" advice only makes sense if you're disciplined enough to actually invest that money instead. For many people, slightly overwithholding is a painless way to save.
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