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Ask the community...

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Yara Assad

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3 Something nobody's mentioned yet - have you considered a 1031 exchange? Instead of renting out your house, you could sell it and use the proceeds to buy a smaller residence for yourself PLUS another property to generate rental income. If done correctly, you can defer capital gains taxes.

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Yara Assad

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11 Wouldn't a 1031 exchange only work if both properties are investment properties? OP's house is currently their primary residence, so I don't think that would qualify.

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Yara Assad

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3 You're right, and that's an important distinction. For a 1031 exchange to work, the property must be held for investment or business purposes. In OP's case, they would need to convert their primary residence to a rental property first, rent it out for a period (usually at least a year), and then they could potentially use a 1031 exchange. Alternatively, OP could look into the primary residence exclusion, which allows you to exclude up to $250,000 ($500,000 for married couples) of capital gains when selling your primary residence if you've lived there for at least 2 of the last 5 years.

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Yara Assad

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2 Have you looked into the tax implications of converting your primary residence to a rental property? There are special considerations around the adjusted basis of the property for depreciation purposes.

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Yara Assad

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19 Yeah this is super important! When I converted my home to a rental last year, my accountant explained that the basis for depreciation becomes the LOWER of either your adjusted basis or the fair market value at the time of conversion. This made a big difference in my depreciation calculations.

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Yara Assad

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2 You're absolutely right. When converting a primary residence to a rental property, the depreciation basis is the lower of the adjusted basis (original cost plus improvements, minus any depreciation already taken) or the fair market value at the time of conversion. This is an important point because it affects how much depreciation can be claimed each year, which is a significant tax benefit of owning rental property. Also, don't forget that land isn't depreciable, so the basis needs to be allocated between the building (depreciable) and land (non-depreciable).

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Niko Ramsey

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I work at a bank (not yours obviously) and we had a system update last year that accidentally flagged a bunch of domestic accounts as foreign. We had to send out 1042-S forms because the system had already generated them, but we made sure to zero out all the amounts so customers wouldn't be affected. Sounds like exactly what happened to you!

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Is this kind of error common? Seems like a major screwup that could mess with people's taxes.

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Jabari-Jo

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Did anyone else notice OP said they received TWO copies of the 1042-S? That's actually normal - you're supposed to get multiple copies. One is for your records, one is for federal filing (though with $0 you don't need to file it), and sometimes a third copy for state filing depending on where you live.

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Oh that makes sense! I thought they just sent me duplicates by mistake. So much about taxes is needlessly confusing lol.

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One thing nobody's mentioned yet is that you might want to consider claiming this as a non-business bad debt if you can't fully document it as a business bad debt. Non-business bad debts are treated as short-term capital losses, which isn't as good as an ordinary business loss, but still better than nothing. For it to qualify as a business bad debt, you generally need to show you were in the business of lending money or that the loan was somehow related to your trade or business. If it was just a one-off loan, the IRS might challenge a business bad debt classification. I went through this last year with a similar amount and ended up going the non-business bad debt route because it was less documentation and less risk of audit.

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Interesting point! I actually made this loan with the intention of potentially becoming a partner in the business later, so there was a business motive beyond just earning interest. Would that help establish it as a business rather than personal loan?

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That business connection definitely strengthens your case for treating it as a business bad debt. Keep any emails or documents that show discussions about partnership or business involvement. The key distinction the IRS looks for is whether you made the loan as an investment with business interests or simply as a personal loan. If you can document that connection to your own business activities or potential participation in their business, you're in a much better position to claim it as a business bad debt, which gives you the more favorable ordinary loss treatment rather than capital loss limitations.

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StarSeeker

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Don't forget the timing issue - the bad debt deduction must be taken in the year the debt actually becomes worthless, not when you decide to write it off. If you have evidence it became worthless in 2023, you should take it then. If it's becoming worthless in 2024, take it this year. Taking it in the wrong year is a common mistake and the IRS can disallow the deduction even if you have all the right documentation. Since you filed an extension for 2024 taxes (due Oct 2024), you need to determine if the worthlessness occurred in this tax year.

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This is so important! My accountant told me the IRS is particularly picky about the timing of bad debt deductions. They expect you to take reasonable steps to collect before claiming worthlessness, but also don't want you waiting years after it's clearly uncollectible.

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One thing nobody's mentioned yet - don't just look at credentials and experience. Pay attention to how the CPA runs their business. My first CPA was super knowledgeable but his office was a disaster - lost documents, missed deadlines, slow responses. Now I have someone who might not be the absolute tax genius the first guy was, but her systems and organization are impeccable. Nothing falls through cracks. Ask potential CPAs about: - Their process for document collection - How they handle client communications - Their timeline for completing returns - What happens if there are questions after filing

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That's such a good point. Do you think it's a red flag if they're still using mostly paper documents instead of digital systems?

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It's not necessarily a deal-breaker if they use paper documents, but it's definitely something to consider. In my experience, CPAs who have embraced secure digital document sharing, e-signatures, and modern client portals tend to be more efficient and organized overall. These systems create automatic backups and make it easier to find information quickly. That said, some excellent accountants still prefer traditional methods. If they use paper but have rock-solid systems for tracking and organizing everything, that can work too. The real red flags are disorganization, frequently misplacing documents, or making you resend information multiple times regardless of whether they're using paper or digital systems.

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I'm surprised nobody's mentioned asking about fees up front. Some CPAs charge flat rates for tax prep depending on complexity, others charge hourly. Make sure you understand their fee structure before you commit! My first CPA experience was a nightmare because they charged by the form and I ended up with a $1,200 bill I wasn't expecting.

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LunarEclipse

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This is so important. My CPA gives me an estimate range before starting work, and if something comes up that will push it higher, she calls to discuss first. That transparency is worth its weight in gold.

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Don't forget you can also check your property tax records directly with your county! Most counties now have online portals where you can look up your property and see the exact tax amounts paid and when. Just google "[your county name] property tax records" and you should find it. This is actually more accurate than the 1098 sometimes because the 1098 reports what the mortgage company paid in that calendar year, but depending on timing, that might not match the actual tax year amounts if payments crossed calendar years. I've been doing my own taxes for 11 years and I always verify the property tax amount independently rather than trusting what's on the 1098.

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Quick question - if the county website shows a different amount than what's on my mortgage statement, which one should I use for my tax return? My county site shows $4,120 but my mortgage escrow statement shows $3,985.

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You should use the amount that was actually paid during the tax year, regardless of what was billed. The difference you're seeing is likely due to timing - maybe your mortgage company paid part of one year's taxes in the previous or following calendar year. Look at the payment dates on your county website. If you're filing taxes for 2024, you want to report the total property tax payments that were actually made during calendar year 2024 (January 1 - December 31), regardless of which tax year they were applied to by the county.

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Emma Davis

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Also check your closing documents if you bought the house recently! When I purchased last year, I had to reimburse the seller for prepaid property taxes at closing, and that amount was also deductible but didn't show up on my 1098 at all. TurboTax has a separate section for property taxes paid outside of your mortgage escrow. Don't miss this if you had any special situations like buying a new home, paying taxes directly, or making additional tax payments.

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StarSailor

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Thank you everyone for all the helpful advice! I managed to find exactly what I needed by checking my escrow statements online. Turns out my lender does include the property tax info on the 1098, but it's split between two different boxes and labeled weirdly. For anyone else struggling with this: definitely check your online mortgage account for the escrow analysis or year-end statement, which breaks everything down clearly. And the county tax website was super helpful too!

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