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If I could give 10 stars I would

If I could give 10 stars I would If I could give 10 stars I would Such an amazing service so needed during the times when EDD almost never picks up Claimyr gets me on the phone with EDD every time without fail faster. A much needed service without Claimyr I would have never received the payment I needed to support me during my postpartum recovery. Thank you so much Claimyr!


Really made a difference

Really made a difference, save me time and energy from going to a local office for making the call.


Worth not wasting your time calling for hours.

Was a bit nervous or untrusting at first, but my calls went thru. First time the wait was a bit long but their customer chat line on their page was helpful and put me at ease that I would receive my call. Today my call dropped because of EDD and Claimyr heard my concern on the same chat and another call was made within the hour.


An incredibly helpful service

An incredibly helpful service! Got me connected to a CA EDD agent without major hassle (outside of EDD's agents dropping calls – which Claimyr has free protection for). If you need to file a new claim and can't do it online, pay the $ to Claimyr to get the process started. Absolutely worth it!


Consistent,frustration free, quality Service.

Used this service a couple times now. Before I'd call 200 times in less than a weak frustrated as can be. But using claimyr with a couple hours of waiting i was on the line with an representative or on hold. Dropped a couple times but each reconnected not long after and was mission accomplished, thanks to Claimyr.


IT WORKS!! Not a scam!

I tried for weeks to get thru to EDD PFL program with no luck. I gave this a try thinking it may be a scam. OMG! It worked and They got thru within an hour and my claim is going to finally get paid!! I upgraded to the $60 call. Best $60 spent!

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Ask the community...

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  • DO NOT post call problems here - there is a support tab at the top for that :)

Ethan Wilson

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Another option is to make quarterly estimated tax payments specifically for your interest income. That's what I do since my interest varies a lot and I don't want to mess with my regular withholding. You can use Form 1040-ES and just pay the estimated tax on your interest each quarter. This way your regular paycheck withholding remains unchanged. Personally I think it's cleaner than adjusting your W-4 since you're separating the two income streams. The downside is you have to remember to make those quarterly payments.

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I hadn't considered quarterly payments. Do you just divide your estimated annual interest tax by 4 and pay that amount each quarter? Are there specific deadlines I would need to remember? I'm worried I might forget and then end up with penalties anyway.

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Ethan Wilson

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Yes, you can divide your estimated annual interest tax by 4 for equal payments. The deadlines are April 15, June 15, September 15, and January 15 of the following year. I just set calendar reminders. You don't necessarily have to make equal payments though - you can adjust each quarterly payment based on how much interest you've actually earned that quarter. This is especially helpful if your interest income is unpredictable. The IRS Form 1040-ES has worksheets to help you calculate this. The key is making sure you've paid enough throughout the year to avoid the underpayment penalty.

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Yuki Sato

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Why not just put your money in tax-advantaged accounts instead? I moved most of my savings into I-bonds and my Roth IRA. The I-bonds defer the tax until you cash them out, and the Roth grows tax-free. Solved my withholding problem completely!

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Not everyone can just move their money into tax-advantaged accounts though. What if you need access to your savings before retirement? Roth has penalties for early withdrawal and I-bonds have to be held for at least a year. Some of us need more liquidity than that provides.

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One thing nobody's mentioned yet - your age makes a HUGE difference in this decision. At 28, you have 30+ years of compound growth ahead of you. That makes Roth accounts extremely powerful because all that growth will be tax-free when you withdraw. My personal strategy: I do Roth when I'm in the 22% tax bracket or lower, and switch to traditional pre-tax when I'm in the 24%+ brackets. That's worked well for me because I expect to stay in the 22% bracket or lower in retirement. Also, don't forget about the Mega Backdoor Roth if your 401k plan allows after-tax contributions and in-plan Roth conversions! Could let you put WAY more into Roth accounts even if you're above income limits.

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What's this Mega Backdoor Roth thing? I've never heard of it and I'm maxing out my regular 401k already. Is this some kind of loophole?

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The Mega Backdoor Roth is a completely legal strategy that allows you to contribute significantly more to Roth accounts than the standard limits. Here's how it works: after maxing out your regular 401(k) contribution ($23,000 for 2025), some employer plans allow additional after-tax contributions up to the total annual limit ($69,000 for 2025, minus employer contributions). You then immediately convert these after-tax contributions to Roth money either through an in-plan Roth conversion or by rolling them over to a Roth IRA. Not all 401(k) plans support this strategy though - you need a plan that allows both after-tax contributions (not just Roth) AND either in-plan Roth conversions or non-hardship in-service withdrawals. Worth checking with your HR department if your plan has these features. It's a game-changer if you're a high earner wanting to get more money into Roth accounts.

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Has anyone actually done the math on Traditional vs Roth for someone in the 22% bracket? I've heard arguments both ways and I'm confused which is actually better from a pure numbers perspective.

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I did a spreadsheet calculation comparing both options. If your tax rate in retirement is exactly the same as your current rate, they're mathematically identical. But most people have lower income in retirement, which makes Traditional better in theory. But there's a strong case for Roth if: 1) You expect tax rates overall to increase in the future (likely given current deficit), 2) You expect to have other income in retirement keeping you in high brackets, or 3) You value the flexibility of Roth (no required minimum distributions, can withdraw contributions penalty-free if needed, etc).

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Here's my 2 cents as someone who's done their taxes both ways (self-filing and paying a professional): If ur situation is simple (just W-2 income, standard deduction) use a free filing option like FreeTaxUSA or even IRS Free File. Don't waste $ on TurboTax unless you need specific features. If you have ANY complications (self-employment, investments, multiple state returns, etc) or if ur making over ~80k, consider paying a tax professional. They often find deductions/credits that more than cover their fee. The best approach is probably to try filing yourself first with free software, and if it gets too confusing or you're not sure you're maximizing your refund, then consider upgrading to paid software or a professional.

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Sarah Ali

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What about Credit Karma Tax? I heard that's completely free even for more complicated returns. Has anyone tried it?

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Credit Karma Tax (now called Cash App Taxes) is completely free and handles most tax situations well. I've used it for returns with some investments and a side gig. The interface is clean and it covers most forms. The only downsides: it doesn't support multiple state returns, certain less common situations (like foreign income), and doesn't offer as much guidance as paid options. If your return is moderately complex but doesn't have those specific issues, it's an excellent free choice. Just be aware they make money by recommending financial products to you based on your tax info - that's the tradeoff for the free service.

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Ryan Vasquez

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Don't overthink this! The IRS website (IRS.gov) has a Free File program that partners with tax software companies to provide free filing if your income is below a certain threshold (usually around $73,000). Go to IRS.gov and look for "Free File" options. Literally just gather all your tax documents (W-2s, 1099s, etc), pick a free software option from the IRS site, and follow the prompts. The software asks questions and fills in the forms for you. No calculations needed on your part. And no, you won't go to prison for tax fraud over honest mistakes! Tax fraud requires INTENTIONAL deception. If you make an honest error, worst case you might pay a small penalty if you underpaid.

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Avery Saint

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Just want to add that if your income is below $60,000 you might qualify for free in-person help through VITA (Volunteer Income Tax Assistance). They're IRS-certified volunteers who will prepare your return for free. Google "VITA tax help near me" to find locations.

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PaulineW

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A technical correction to some of the advice here: there's one scenario where you MIGHT be able to use your HSA for your girlfriend's child. If you could qualify as what the IRS calls a "local parent," you might be able to claim the child as a dependent. This applies if you lived with the child for more than half the year and provided more than half the child's support. The biological parent would need to agree not to claim the child in this case. So technically, if you're providing more than half the total support for the child (not just health insurance, but housing, food, clothing, etc.), AND your girlfriend agrees not to claim the child as her dependent, then you could potentially claim the child and use your HSA. But it would require coordination on your tax returns and agreement from your girlfriend. Something to consider if it makes financial sense for your household.

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Micah Trail

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Thank you for this insight! I hadn't considered the "local parent" angle. I'm definitely providing a large chunk of support (probably around 60% when you factor in housing, insurance, and day-to-day expenses), but we've always had her claim him since she's the biological mom. Do you know if there would be any downsides to changing this arrangement? Would she lose out on any tax benefits if she didn't claim him? We file separately since we're not married.

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PaulineW

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The main consideration would be comparing the total tax benefits each of you receive by claiming the child. For your girlfriend, not claiming the child could mean losing the Child Tax Credit (currently up to $2,000 per qualifying child), potential Head of Household filing status (if this is her only dependent), and possibly the Earned Income Credit if her income qualifies. For you, claiming the child would allow you to use your HSA for the child's medical expenses, potentially claim the Child Tax Credit yourself, and possibly file as Head of Household rather than Single. I'd recommend calculating both scenarios - one where she claims the child as usual, and another where you claim the child - to see which provides the better overall benefit for your household combined. Sometimes it makes sense to alternate years if the math works out better that way.

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Could you potentially categorize these expenses differently? Instead of withdrawing from your HSA, could you give your girlfriend the money personally, and then she pays for the medical expenses? That way they're being paid by the person who claims the child as a dependent. I realize it's more steps, but might avoid any potential HSA compliance issues.

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Chris Elmeda

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This is actually a really smart workaround. HSA rules focus on who pays the qualified medical expense, not where the money originally came from. If the person claiming the dependent is the one making the actual payment to the healthcare provider, it should comply with the rules.

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Even if the person was supposed to give you a 1099 and didn't, it's really their problem not yours. You still gotta claim the income on your Schedule C. But good news is you can also claim any expenses against that income! Did you buy materials or tools for the job? Gas for driving to the work site? Those are probably deductible and will lower your taxable income.

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Ethan Moore

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I've heard you can deduct mileage for driving to job sites, but what if the work was at multiple houses in the same neighborhood? Do I track each trip separately or can I just estimate the total miles for all the jobs?

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You need to track each trip separately for proper documentation. Keep a mileage log (there are free apps for this) showing the date, starting location, ending location, miles driven, and purpose of each trip. For multiple houses in the same neighborhood, each location is a separate job site. So if you drive from home to House A, then to House B, then back home, you'd record three legs: home to A, A to B, and B to home. The total mileage is deductible as long as each trip has a business purpose. Many people miss out on this valuable deduction because they don't keep good records, but it can really add up!

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I'm confused about how much tax I'll actually end up owing on side income like this. Is it really worth reporting if it's just a couple thousand? My brother said I'll end up paying way more in self-employment tax than regular income tax and it's not worth the headache.

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Carmen Vega

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Your brother is giving you terrible advice that could get you in trouble. ALL income legally needs to be reported. The IRS has gotten much better at finding unreported income through bank deposit analysis and other means.

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