


Ask the community...
Former tax preparer here. If you want to learn enough to handle your own taxes and maybe help friends/family, I recommend a three-pronged approach: 1) Take a basic tax course from H&R Block or Liberty Tax. They're designed to teach beginners, and while they're focused on preparing returns for clients, you'll learn a ton about common tax situations. 2) Read "J.K. Lasser's Your Income Tax" - it's updated annually and explains tax concepts in plain language with tons of examples. 3) Practice with last year's returns. Get copies of your previous returns and try to recreate them from scratch using what you've learned. This hands-on practice is where real learning happens.
Are the H&R Block/Liberty courses expensive? Is it worth it compared to just using the free IRS materials someone mentioned above?
The tax courses typically run between $200-400 depending on your location. They're more comprehensive than the free IRS materials and include guided practice with an instructor who can answer questions. The VITA training mentioned above is great for basic returns, but the paid courses go deeper into things like investment income, small business issues, and rental properties. If your situation is simple (W-2 income only, standard deduction), stick with the free materials. If you have investments, freelance income, or rental property, the paid course is worth considering.
Don't overthink this. I spent years trying to "become a tax expert" and realized what I really needed was just to understand MY specific tax situation. Focus on learning the parts that apply to you. If you're a W-2 employee with some investments, learn about capital gains taxes and retirement account rules. If you freelance, learn about self-employment tax and business deductions. The IRS website actually has surprisingly good resources under their "Tax Tips" section. Start there before spending money on courses.
Quick tip: Make sure you're using the EXACT numbers from your 1095-A form when entering them into Turbo Tax. I messed up by rounding some of the monthly premium amounts and it threw off my calculations. Double-check all three columns (monthly premiums, second lowest cost silver plan, and advance payments) for all 12 months. Even a small error can cause big differences in the final calculation.
Does it matter if I use annual totals or do I have to enter the monthly amounts? My 1095-A has both.
You should definitely enter the monthly amounts rather than annual totals. Form 8962 calculations are done on a month-by-month basis, especially if your coverage or family situation changed during the year. Turbo Tax will walk you through entering each month's values from all three columns on the 1095-A. This might seem tedious, but it's necessary for accurate calculations. If you use annual totals when you had changes in coverage or family size during the year, your Form 8962 calculations will be incorrect and could cause problems with the IRS later.
Has anyone had success getting the IRS to reduce the amount you have to pay back? My income only went up a little bit (like $2,000) but my refund dropped by $1,800! Seems excessive for such a small income change.
The repayment amounts are set by law and based on income brackets. It's not negotiable with the IRS unfortunately. The cliff between income brackets can be really steep - a few dollars can sometimes make a big difference. This happened to my sister last year - her income was just $100 over a threshold and it cost her over $1,000 in additional repayment.
The withholding issue is probably because of the W-4 form you filled out when you started your job. Here's a simple explanation: - When you put "0" on the old form, it meant maximum withholding - The form changed in 2020 and doesn't use numbers the same way anymore - If you're still using the old system, "1" means less will be withheld than "0" - If you're using the new form, it's completely different and based on specific situations You should ask your HR department for a new W-4 form and fill it out based on your current situation. For someone single with one job and no dependents, it's pretty straightforward.
Is it better to have more or less withheld though? I always heard you should get your withholding as close as possible to what you'll actually owe. But my dad says I should withhold more so I get a big refund. Who's right?
From a purely financial perspective, it's better to have your withholding match your actual tax liability as closely as possible. When you overwithhold, you're essentially giving the government an interest-free loan of your money throughout the year. However, some people prefer getting a refund because it feels like a "bonus" and helps them avoid the risk of owing money at tax time. It really comes down to your financial discipline and preferences. If having more withheld helps you save money you might otherwise spend, there's some psychological benefit to that approach.
Here's something no one's mentioned - if you're a full-time college student, your parents might still be claiming you as a dependent on their taxes. If that's the case, you need to indicate this on your W-4 by checking the box in Step 1(c) that says "Someone can claim me as a dependent." This affects your withholding calculation!
After going through this household employee nightmare last year, my biggest advice is to get EVERYTHING in writing. Create a work agreement that clearly states the relationship (employee vs contractor) and stick to it. For my house cleaner, I specifically structured our arrangement so she qualifies as an independent contractor - she sets her own hours, decides how to clean, brings most supplies, and works for multiple clients. This arrangement benefits both of us. For our part-time nanny, we've embraced the household employee classification. We use a payroll service that handles all the tax withholding and quarterly filings for about $45/month. Completely worth avoiding the headache and potential audit risk.
Did you need to get an EIN number to properly employ your nanny? And are you using a specific payroll service that specializes in household employees?
Yes, I had to get an EIN which was surprisingly easy - took about 10 minutes on the IRS website. I received it immediately via email after completing the online form. I use HomePay which specializes in household employees. It's a bit pricier than some general payroll services, but they understand all the household employee nuances like state-specific nanny taxes and how to properly handle non-taxable benefits like transportation reimbursements. They also provide my nanny with professional pay stubs and handle all the quarterly and year-end tax filings. Makes the whole process almost completely hands-off for me.
Is the threshold REALLY $2,600 for 2025? I thought it was way lower. Anyone know where I can find the official number? My 17-year-old niece babysits for us regularly and I pay her about $220/month...trying to figure out if I'm supposed to be doing all this tax withholding stuff.
It's actually $2,500 for 2024 and will likely be around $2,600 for 2025 after inflation adjustment (IRS hasn't announced final 2025 numbers yet). So at $220/month, you're paying about $2,640 annually - possibly just over the threshold. But there's another rule - if your niece is under 18 and childcare isn't her primary occupation, you don't have to withhold FICA taxes. However, you might still need to issue a W-2. Check Publication 926 (Household Employer's Tax Guide) on the IRS website for all the details.
Nia Harris
I think the comments here are right but just want to add one thing - make sure your parents send the money directly to you and not through multiple smaller transfers trying to avoid reporting. Banks file reports for transactions over $10k and suspicious patterns of smaller transfers designed to avoid that limit (called "structuring") can actually get you in MORE trouble than just properly reporting a large gift. Better to do one transfer and file the proper Form 3520.
0 coins
Chloe Davis
ā¢Thanks for pointing this out! My parents were actually suggesting sending it in smaller chunks over a few months because they thought it would be "easier." I'll make sure to tell them to just do one direct transfer instead. Do you happen to know if they need to fill out any special forms in Vietnam to send such a large amount overseas?
0 coins
Nia Harris
ā¢Definitely tell your parents not to split it up! You're right that it could look like structuring, which can trigger all kinds of unwanted scrutiny from both banks and the government. Regarding Vietnam specifically, your parents will likely need to complete forms at their Vietnamese bank explaining the purpose of the transfer and possibly showing documentation of the source of funds. Vietnam has currency control regulations, and for amounts over about $5,000 USD, there are usually additional verification steps. The exact requirements vary by bank, but generally they'll need to provide your information, their relationship to you, and sometimes proof of how they acquired the money (especially for large amounts like $100k). Their bank in Vietnam will guide them through their specific requirements.
0 coins
Mateo Gonzalez
One other thing to consider - depending on what state you live in, you might want to check if there are any state-level reporting requirements for large gifts. Most states don't have gift taxes, but a few still do. Also, keep good records of this transaction for your green card process. While legitimate gifts from parents won't negatively impact your application, having clear documentation of the source of funds is always helpful when your finances are reviewed during immigration processes.
0 coins
Aisha Ali
ā¢Which states still have gift taxes? I thought that was just a federal thing. I'm in Minnesota if that matters.
0 coins